Literature on the Muslim veil is divided into two broad categories: one describes it as a traditional-religious object, a political symbol of Islam and the oppression of Muslim women; and the second a clinging to cultural artifacts as Muslim women act in an orientalist world order, giving the veil new meanings in the local arenas in which they live (אלסעדאוי, 1988 [1931]; Ahmad, 2008; Ahmed, 2011; Bhimji, 2009; Göle, 2003; Mahmood, 2005; Özcan, 2015; Zakaria, 2019). Both categories present the veil as an object that symbolizes the dichotomy between modern, Western values and Islamic, traditional values. They highlight the religious and cultural meanings of the hijab in different local arenas and discuss it as an object with inherent religious meanings. These works on the hijab do not properly refer to the hijab, which was not created as a symbol of the religion of Islam but instead becomes this symbol through Muslim women’s agency and dialect expressed in varying locations around the world, and online.
In this study, I aim to renew theoretical terms to describe veiled women in Muslim societies and their agency by revealing the translations (Latour, 2005) that occur within the framework of the manufacturing, distribution, and procurement of the hijab. I will examine how meanings and values are assimilated into the scarf, turning it into a Muslim veil and constructing a "hijabi fashion" which is passed on to Muslim women. In my work I present the wearing of the hijab in Bedouin society of the Negev as a loaded practice sitting at an intersection of meanings assigned to it by veiled women, Bedouin and Palestinian retailers, Turkish wholesalers, businessmen and Muslim bloggers.
This multi-sited ethnography (Marcus, 1995, 1998) shows how the hijab was created in Istanbul as a scarf and sold to various women around the world. The scarf takes on its meaning as "hijab" only when bought by a Muslim woman or a Muslim retailer who imports it into the country where they live. The findings show that the hijab is a mediator (Latour, 2005) that when entering Muslim space, translates its purely fashionable meaning into a religious one. This religious meaning is strengthened with the attitude towards it as an object that protects the woman and strengthen her humbleness. Apart from religious identity, the hijab and fashion attributed to it create a subjectivity among Bedouin women in the Negev, composed of traditional-Bedouin and neoliberal values, to which they are exposed in local and online environments.
From my conversations with these women, it appears that the combination between local values of preserving tradition and global-Western values of freedom of action and individualism integrates and exists in their personal lives. Whereas they perceive themselves as women with free choice whose manner of dressing and behaving depends on their individuality, they also see themselves as connected and belonging to their families and the Bedouin collective, along with its demands. This tension is reflected in their attitude towards their clothing. They describe their fashion, the hijabi fashion, as modern and personal choice and at the same time as modesty. The combination of these characteristics (modest, religious, personal and modern) is not a contradiction in their eyes. The religious and modern values are not of separate worlds but rather assimilate through this clothing.
I argue that hijabi fashion is a tool through which women create a strategy to establish themselves as agents of action within a structure saturated with constraints and barriers. It is a patriarchal bargain (Kandiyoti, 1988), that is, a way through which women act according to the rules of the patriarchal society in which they live and at the same time conduct themselves with sophistication to create a safer and better life for themselves. The connection between the main agents in the creation of the hijabi fashion led the Bedouin women in the Negev to adopt a discourse that characterizes a neoliberal subjectivity. At the heart of this discourse is a rhetoric centered on the concept of "choice," within which the woman is perceived and perceives herself as autonomous, empowered, someone with free choice who "works on herself". This neoliberal discourse, adding a central value to the hijabi fashion adopted by Bedouin women in the Negev, ignores the position of women in a stratified patriarchal social structure (Baker, 2008, 2010) and guarantees their participation in it.