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Carrier oils in dermatology

Authors:
Ane Orchard at University of the Witwatersrand
Ane Orchard
Sandy Van vuuren at University of the Witwatersrand
Sandy Van vuuren
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Abstract and Figures

Wounds are a common medical infliction. With the increase in microbial resistance and a shift of interest towards complementary medicines, essential oils have been shown to be beneficial in suppressing microbial growth. However, in practice, essential oils are more often diluted into a base due to the risk of topical adverse effects, such as dermatitis. There is a lack of collated evidence-based information on toxicity and efficacy of carrier oils. The current information on the subject matter is restricted to generic, aroma-therapeutic books and pamphlets, based on anecdotal evidence rather than an experimental approach. Therefore, this review aimed at identifying the recommended carrier oils used in dermatology and thereafter collating the scientific evidence to support the use of carrier oils together with essential oils recommended for dermatological use. Aloe vera gel had multiple studies demonstrating the ability to enhance wound healing; however, several other carrier oils have been largely neglected. It was observed that the extracts for certain plant species had been used to justify the use of the carrier oils of the same plant species. This is an inaccurate cross assumption due to the difference in chemical composition and biological activities. Lastly, despite these carrier oils being recommended as a base for essential oils, very little data was found on the interactive profile of the carrier oil with the essential oil. This review provides a platform for further studies, especially if essential oils are to receive credence in the scientific field.
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Vol.:(0123456789)
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Archives of Dermatological Research (2019) 311:653–672
https://doi.org/10.1007/s00403-019-01951-8
REVIEW
Carrier oils indermatology
AnéOrchard1 · SandyF.vanVuuren1
Received: 26 March 2019 / Revised: 24 June 2019 / Accepted: 4 July 2019 / Published online: 18 July 2019
© Springer-Verlag GmbH Germany, part of Springer Nature 2019
Abstract
Wounds are a common medical infliction. With the increase in microbial resistance and a shift of interest towards comple-
mentary medicines, essential oils have been shown to be beneficial in suppressing microbial growth. However, in practice,
essential oils are more often diluted into a base due to the risk of topical adverse effects, such as dermatitis. There is a lack
of collated evidence-based information on toxicity and efficacy of carrier oils. The current information on the subject matter
is restricted to generic, aroma-therapeutic books and pamphlets, based on anecdotal evidence rather than an experimental
approach. Therefore, this review aimed at identifying the recommended carrier oils used in dermatology and thereafter col-
lating the scientific evidence to support the use of carrier oils together with essential oils recommended for dermatological
use. Aloe vera gel had multiple studies demonstrating the ability to enhance wound healing; however, several other carrier
oils have been largely neglected. It was observed that the extracts for certain plant species had been used to justify the use of
the carrier oils of the same plant species. This is an inaccurate cross assumption due to the difference in chemical composi-
tion and biological activities. Lastly, despite these carrier oils being recommended as a base for essential oils, very little
data was found on the interactive profile of the carrier oil with the essential oil. This review provides a platform for further
studies, especially if essential oils are to receive credence in the scientific field.
Keywords Fixed oils· Essential oils· Aromatherapy· Skin· Healing· Infection
Introduction
The skin is the largest organ of the body and is repeatedly
exposed to injury and infection causing a disruption of the
normal anatomical structure, creating a wound. There is a
process followed in wound healing, which is essential in
preventing chronic wounds, secondary infection, or fatal
wounds. If the sequential stages are not adequately followed,
then progress in healing is retarded [137, 208]. These heal-
ing phases comprise the following stages:
• Inflammatory phase (plugs the wound and facilitates
white cell entry, clearance of bacteria). One of the main
causes for this prolonged delay is local infection [155,
208], due to the inflammatory stage. Although inflamma-
tion is a natural occurrence, once injury has occurred, it
has a tendency to hinder the rate of healing [212].
• Proliferative phase (allows for new skin structure, and
fibroblast formation which becomes collagen for wound
strength, where blood vessels are formed) [208].
• Contraction (reinforces wounds strength) [208].
• Maturation and remodelling [208].
Healing usually follows from the moment injury occurs
to the skin. Wounds that heal within an expected time-
frame (5days to 3weeks) are known as acute wounds [137].
Injured skin permits pathogens into the body, resulting in
an impediment of the healing process. Accelerated wound
healing is required to decrease the risk of infection and
to improve patient quality of life through the reduction of
medical costs associated with prolonged injury [23]. Wound
management is still an area of conjecture and difficulty as
despite progresses in surgery, prolonged healing and death
still occur [25].
Burns are considered as one of the most severe skin inflic-
tions that often result in treatment difficulty, incapacity or
death. To improve patient mortality, the infection needs to be
* Sandy F. van Vuuren
sandy.vanvuuren@wits.ac.za
1 Department ofPharmacy andPharmacology, Faculty
ofHealth Sciences, University oftheWitwatersrand, 7 York
Road, Parktown2193, SouthAfrica
Content courtesy of Springer Nature, terms of use apply. Rights reserved.
... For topical application, essential oils are diluted in a carrier oil, usually vegetable or nut oil (e.g. sweet almond oil, grapeseed, jojoba oil) [12]. These carrier oils differ from essential oils in that they contain fatty acids, vitamins and minerals, and are believed to aid absorption of the essential oil through the skin [12]. ...
... sweet almond oil, grapeseed, jojoba oil) [12]. These carrier oils differ from essential oils in that they contain fatty acids, vitamins and minerals, and are believed to aid absorption of the essential oil through the skin [12]. ...
... Limiting the dose or concentration of essential oils is considered an important means of avoiding systemic toxicity or adverse effects, such as skin irritation or sensitivity [11,12]. The typical dose of essential oil used for therapeutic purposes varies depending on indication, and the oil and route of administration, but is generally in the range of a 2.5-5% dilution of essential oils for topical use [11]. ...
Effectiveness of aromatherapy for prevention or treatment of disease, medical or preclinical conditions, and injury: protocol for a systematic review and meta-analysis
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... The largest group of them are terpenoids, but phenolic compounds are also dominant. An EO generally consists of 10-50 compounds with various structures, which can be carbohydrates or oxygen-containing compounds such as alcohols, ketones, aldehydes, ethers and esters [5,6]. The chemical composition determines the biological activity of an EO [7], but even one single component can be highly bioactive (e.g., menthol or camphor). ...
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Essential oils (EOs) are widely used topically in musculoskeletal disorders (MSDs); however, their clinical efficacy is controversial. Our aim was to find evidence that topical EOs are beneficial as an add-on treatment in MSDs. We performed a systematic review and meta-analysis to summarize the evidence on the available data of randomized controlled trials (RCTs). The protocol of this work was registered on PROSPERO. We used Web of Science, EMBASE, PubMed, Central Cochrane Library and Scopus electronic databases for systematic search. Eight RCTs were included in the quantitative analysis. In conclusion, EO therapy had a favorable effect on pain intensity (primary outcome) compared to placebo. The greatest pain-relieving effect of EO therapy was calculated immediately after the intervention (MD of pain intensity = −0.87; p = 0.014). EO therapy had a slightly better analgesic effect than placebo one week after the intervention (MD of pain intensity = −0.58; p = 0.077) and at the four-week follow-up as well (MD of pain intensity = −0.52; p = 0.049). EO therapy had a beneficial effect on stiffness (a secondary outcome) compared to the no intervention group (MD = −0.77; p = 0.061). This systematic review and meta-analysis showed that topical EOs are beneficial as an add-on treatment in reducing pain and stiffness in the investigated MSDs.
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... Ayurvedic issue to be considered is to tailor to the doshic imbalances and then learn how to correct the potential imbalances. Plant based carrier oils recommended for the skin according to the aromatherapeutic literature (Orchard and van Vuuren, 2019) are also used in Indian ethnodermatology (Tables 1-5 . V. vinifera L. is also used in Ayurvedic formulations such as Chyawanprash, that accelerates wound closure (Lin et al., 2018). ...
Ethnodermatological use of medicinal plants in India: From ayurvedic formulations to clinical perspectives – A review
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Ethnopharmacological relevance Traditional knowledge is a particular form of practice or skill set that was developed in ancient times and was sustained through generations via the passing of knowledge, essentially confined within a specific tribe, local people, or family lineages. Ethnodermatological use of medicinal plants in India is still a subject to conduct more studies to see if there is chemical, microbiological, and/or clinical evidence, from a scientific perspective, of their effectiveness for those skin disorders. Thus, this review can be the basis for further studies and may provide targets for drug development. Aim of the study We compile and emphasize the most important part of ethnodermatology, namely, traditional knowledge of medicinal plants and their applications for several skin diseases in India. We also include a brief review and explanation on dermatology in Ayurvedic and Unani medicine. We review the pharmacological activity of extracts derived from some of the most cited plants against problem skin diseases as well. Materials and methods Different kinds of key phrases such as “Indian traditional ethnodermatology”, “ethnodermatology”, “ethnobotany”, “skin diseases”, “Ayurveda dermatology”, “pharmacological activity” were searched in online search servers/databases such as Google Scholar (https://scholar.google.com/), ResearchGate (https://www.researchgate.net/), PubMed (https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/), NISCAIR Online Periodicals Repository (NOPR) (http://nopr.niscair.res.in/). Based upon the analyses of data obtained from 178 articles, we formulated several important findings which are a summary shown in Tables. Tables. A total of 119 records of plants’ uses have been found across India against 39 skin diseases. These are depicted with their localities of report, parts used, and preparation and administration methods against particular skin diseases. Results The knowledge and utilisation of herbal medicine in the Indian subcontinent has great potential to treat different kinds of human skin disorders. The administration of extracts from most of the plant species used is topical and few only are administrated orally. We also investigated the pharmacological activity of the extracts of the most cited plants against mice, bacterial and fungal pathogens, and human cells. Conclusions Complementary therapy for dermatological problems and treatment remains the main option for millions of people in the Indian subcontinent. This review on the practices of ethnobotanical dermatology in India confirms the belief that their analysis will accelerate the discovery of new, effective therapeutic agents for skin diseases. However, more studies and clinical evidence are still required to determine if the identified species may contribute to skin condition treatment, particularly in atopic eczema. Today, ethnodermatology is a well-accepted international discipline and many new practices have been initiated in numerous countries. We hope this article will further accelerate the development of this area to identify a new generation of natural human skin treatments that will help meet the growing consumer demand for safe, sustainable, and natural treatments. In this context, research on plants utilised in ethnodermatology in India and elsewhere should be intensified.
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Intake of dietary fat, particularly essential fatty acids, is known to influence human health and disease status. Evening primrose oil (EPO), a source of g-linolenic acid, has received much attention for its possible therapeutic effects on inflammatory and cardiovascular diseases, diabetes, and cancer, among others. The beneficial health effects attributed to the oil are thought to be mediated by the desaturated metabolite of g-linolenic acid, namely dihomo-g-linolenic acid, which is metabolized in the body to produce anti-inflammatory eicosanoids that may reduce the incidence or severity of human disease status and to promote health. EPO is also a source of antioxidative tocopherols. This entry attempts to summarize the effects of EPO in health promotion and disease risk reduction.
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Background: Aloe vera has been used to treat wounds since ancient times. However, the efficacy of Aloe vera for burns and split-thickness skin graft (STSG) donor sites are inconclusive. Methods: A double-blind, randomized, controlled trial was conducted. Patients who underwent STSG harvesting from the thigh were included. STSG donor sites were divided into two groups: Aloe vera group and placebo group. The visual analogue scale (VAS) score evaluated pain and complete epithelialization was assessed. We searched electronic databases and included only international clinical trials published in the English language. Results: Twelve patients with 24 donor sites participated. Times to complete epithelization for the Aloe vera and placebo groups were 11.5 + 1.45 and 13.67 + 1.61 days (p<0.05). VAS scores after wound dressing for the Aloe vera and placebo groups were 17.18 + 13.17 and 18.63 + 11.20. No statistical significance was found between groups. Five articles met the inclusion criteria: four involved burns and one involved STSG donor sites. Three studies of burn wounds demonstrated improved epithelization and one did not. The STSG donor site study indicated that wound healing time for the control group was significantly different from that of the Aloe vera and placebo groups. The healing rate was not statistically different between groups. Conclusion: Topical Aloe vera gel significantly demonstrated accelerated STSG donor site healing but did not show significant pain relief.
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The in vitro antimicrobial evaluation of commercial essential oils and their combinations against acne
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Objective The study investigated the efficacy of commercial essential oil combinations against the two pathogens responsible for acne with the aim to identify synergy and favourable oils to possibly use in a blend. Methods and materials Antimicrobial activity was assessed using the minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) assay against Staphylococcus epidermidis (ATCC 2223) and Propionibacterium acnes (ATCC 11827), and the fractional inhibitory concentration index (ΣFIC) was calculated. Combinations displaying synergistic interactions were further investigated at varied ratios and the results plotted on isobolograms. Results From the 408 combinations investigated, 167 combinations were identified as displaying noteworthy antimicrobial activity (MIC value ≤ 1.00 mg ml⁻¹). Thirteen synergistic interactions were observed against S. epidermidis and three synergistic combinations were observed against P. acnes. It was found that not one of the synergistic interactions identified were based on the combinations recommended in the layman's aroma‐therapeutic literature. Synergy was evident rather from leads based on antimicrobial activity from previous studies, thus emphasising the importance of scientific validation. Leptospermum scoparium J.R.Forst. and G.Forst (manuka) was the essential oil mostly involved in synergistic interactions (four) against S. epidermidis. Cananga odorata (Lam.) Hook.f. and Thomson (ylang ylang) essential oil was also frequently involved in synergy where synergistic interactions could be observed against both pathogens. The combination with the lowest MIC value against both acne pathogens was and Vetiveria zizanioides Stapf (vetiver) with Cinnamomum verum J.Presl (cinnamon bark) (MIC values 0.19‐0.25 mg ml⁻¹). Pogostemon patchouli Benth. (patchouli), V. zizanioides, C. verum and Santalum spp. (sandalwood) could be identified as the oils that contributed the most noteworthy antimicrobial activity towards the combinations. The different chemotypes of the essential oils used in the combinations predominantly resulted in similar antimicrobial activity. Conclusion The investigated essential oil combinations resulted in at least 50% of the combinations displaying noteworthy antimicrobial activity. Most of the synergistic interactions do not necessarily correspond to the recommended aroma‐therapeutic literature, which highlights a need for scientific validation of essential oil antimicrobial activity. No antagonism was observed. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved.
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  • Jan 2017
  • J COSMET SCI
Introduction: Skin surface lipids (SSLs) greatly affect the skin physiology and are thought to be involved in skin processes such as thermoregulation, bacterial colonization, and barrier function and maintenance. SSLs are primarily composed of fatty acids, triglycerides, cholesterol, steryl esters, wax esters, and squalene. The objective of this research was to evaluate and better understand the SSL composition and variation in an age- and sex-controlled population, and create an appropriate botanically derived mimetic. Methods: SSL samples taken from the foreheads of 59 healthy, 22-year-old females were analyzed by gas chromatography mass spectrometry (GC-MS). Using botanically derived raw materials from Macadamia integrifolia, Simmondsia chinensis, and Olea europaea, a mimetic was engineered via a series of esterification reactions and lipid components quantitated with GC-MS. The glyceride and wax ester components were produced by the interesterification of M. integrifolia and S. chinensis under specified conditions. The steryl ester component was produced by the esterification of the fatty acids of M. integrifolia and phytosterols under similar conditions. Results: The following major classes of lipids were found and quantified by percent composition: glycerides, free fatty acids, squalene, wax esters, steryl esters, and cholesterol. The variability between subjects for each component was minimal; however, the greatest variation was seen for free fatty acids and cholesterol. Correlations among the components were calculated and found to be statistically or directionally significant with few exceptions. The esterification reactions of jojoba, macadamia, and tall oils, along with a precise addition of squalene derived from O. europaea, produced a suitable SSL mimetic. When applied to delipidized skin, the mimetic helped restore barrier function, increased skin hydration, and increased skin elasticity and firmness in aged skin. Discussion: The present research indicates that, overall, the SSL composition is quite consistent in a controlled population of 22-year-old females. Furthermore, there were strong correlations between the SSL components among subjects, with the exception of squalene and steryl esters. This was expected due to the fact that of the six major SSL components, steryl esters and squalene also showed higher variation over time for each individual. The variation in free fatty acids may be attributable to the potential differences in the microflora of the subjects. The variation in this study's results, as compared to previously published work, could indicate that the collection methods, geographic location, gender, and age specificity contribute to the distribution or collection of different lipid components on the skin surface. Since the excretion of sebum is known to decrease in females after 40 years of age, the proposed mimetic could be a beneficial supplement to human SSLs in aged skin, as well as in skin where the stratum corneum is defective, by aiding in the restoration of barrier function, while increasing skin hydration, elasticity, and firmness.
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