ChapterPDF Available

Dyeing Chemicals

Authors:

Abstract and Figures

Dyeing auxiliaries play an important role in the determination of the final dyeing quality. The formation of additional complexes with dyes and auxiliary agents enhances the exhaustion of dyes on textile substrates. For aqueous-based dyeing, dye auxiliaries such as chelating agents, dispersing agents, leveling agents, electrolyte, pH control agents, and surfactants form complexes with the dye on natural and synthetic fibers. A growing awareness of the impact of industrial pollution on the environment became crucial for the dyeing industry in the closing decades of the twentieth century. These chapters discuss the characteristics of dyeing chemicals and how auxiliary substances can assist in achieving outstanding dyeing performance.
Content may be subject to copyright.
Selection of our books indexed in the Book Citation Index
in Web of Science™ Core Collection (BKCI)
Interested in publishing with us?
Contact book.department@intechopen.com
Numbers displayed above are based on latest data collected.
For more information visit www.intechopen.com
Open access books available
Countries delivered to Contributors from top 500 universities
International authors and editor s
Our authors are among the
most cited scientists
Downloads
We are IntechOpen,the world’s leading publisher ofOpen Access booksBuilt by scientists, for scientists
12.2%
116,000
120M
TOP 1%
154
3,900
Chapter
Dyeing Chemicals
Shekh Md.Mamun Kabir and Joonseok Koh
Abstract
Dyeing auxiliaries play an important role in the determination of the final dye-
ing quality. The formation of additional complexes with dyes and auxiliary agents
enhances the exhaustion of dyes on textile substrates. For aqueous-based dyeing,
dye auxiliaries such as chelating agents, dispersing agents, leveling agents, electro-
lyte, pH control agents, and surfactants form complexes with the dye on natural
and synthetic fibers. A growing awareness of the impact of industrial pollution
on the environment became crucial for the dyeing industry in the closing decades
of the twentieth century. These chapters discuss the characteristics of dyeing
chemicals and how auxiliary substances can assist in achieving outstanding dyeing
performance.
Keywords: chelating agent, dispersing agent, leveling agent, electrolyte, pH control
agent, surfactant, antifoaming agents
. Introduction
The textile dyeing industry is constantly increasing because of the growing con-
sumption of fabrics and garments; moreover, till the next decade, a billion consumers
will be added to the global market [1]. The processing of such a large volume of fabrics
and garments is conducted through dyes and chemicals. A variety of factors can influ-
ence the quality of dyeing and its complex mechanisms in batch reproduction. The
degree of levelness and reproducibility of dyeing depends on not only the dyes and
chemicals used but also the control of temperatures and pH conditions in the dye bath
[2]. To achieve any progress in such studies, it is necessary to control the parameters
in order to determine their effect on the dyeing system. To study the performance
of dyeing in an aqueous dye bath system, it is essential to alter the dye concentration
while maintaining, and all other conditions constant so that the changes in the chemi-
cal structure of the solvent and the nature of the dye species can be analyzed [3].
Natural and synthetic dyes play an important role in the process of dyeing textile
fabrics and garments. Different classes of dyes are used for coloring different textile
materials with the aid of auxiliaries, which facilitate the homogenization of the mix-
tures [4]. The method of determining the equilibrium constant of the dyeauxiliary
complex can be constructed.
The association between the dye and the auxiliary agent may proceed as far as
the colloidal particles are dispersed in dyes. Apart from this, there exists an equi-
librium between the dyes and the textile auxiliaries, which have been added to the
Dyes in Industry
dye bath [5]. The auxiliaries exist in a state of association equilibrium [6]. A new
era of dyeing chemical research began in 1930 when soap was replaced by synthetic
surfactants [7]. Since many researchers have described the use of various textile
auxiliaries in dyeing [8]. Thermodynamic studies of dyeing make useful contribu-
tions to the general theories of intermolecular forces while diffusion processes are
also influenced by the dye concentration, temperature, nature of dyeing auxiliaries,
and polymer structure [9]. A major challenge for textile wet processors is address-
ing the increasing cost and demand associated with the use of different auxiliaries
in industrialized countries. However, in recent years, there has been significant
demonstration of a lack of knowledge about the usage of dyeing chemicals. In this
study, the potential for dyeing auxiliaries was explained.
. Dyeing chemicals
This chapter demonstrates the characteristics of different auxiliary agents,
which tend to form colloidal flocculation and dye–auxiliary complexes with dyes.
A chelating agent is used to remove the hardness of water by bonding with calcium
and magnesium ions and other heavy metal ions in hard water, by forming a stable
complex compound that does not decompose over a prolonged processing period
[10]. Dispersing agents, pH, and temperatures affect the changes in shade and
fastness of disperse dyes [2, 11]. A greater degree of levelness is linked with greater
retarding effect, which means a longer dyeing time [4]. In the presence of electro-
lytes, dyeing of cotton fabric with anionic dyes is to suppress negative charge at
the fiber surface and to promote increased dye exhaustion [12]. If the dye bath pH
is adjusted prior to the dyeing process, it may affect the absorption of dye on the
fiber [13]. Synthetic surfactants have been extensively studied by many researchers
[14]. After World War II, fabric softeners emerged through the introduction of the
synthetic surfactant [15].
. Chelating agent
The word “chelate” is obtained from the Greek word “chel,” which means crab’s
claw. Chemically, a chelate is an organic compound that can form a ring structure
by bonding with metal ions. Chelating agents are mostly used in dye baths, as
they remove the hardness of water by bonding with heavy metal ion. Chelating
agents form a stable complex compound that does not decompose over a prolonged
processing period [10]. The coordination of water with metal ions enhances the
acidity of the dye solution, which is dependent on the physical and chemical charac-
teristics of the metal ions [16]. Inorganic chelating agents are also used as detergent
by suspending and dispersing agents. They require less than the stoichiometric
quantity predicted to keep ions in solution (threshold effect). They will dissociate to
sodium phosphate in water over time losing their ability to chelate, especially in hot
water. Polyphosphates are derivatives of phosphoric acid and are made by react-
ing phosphorous pentoxide with phosphoric acid. Important polyphosphates are
tetra sodium pyrophosphate (Na4P2O7), sodium phosphate (Na5P3O10), and sodium
hexametaphosphate (Na6P6O18) [ 17] (Scheme ).
Scheme 1.
Formation of sodium polyphosphates.
Dyeing Chemicals
DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.81438
Organophosphonic acids also act as chelating agents and aid detergency by dis-
persing and suspending soil. They are more stable than inorganic polyphosphates in
hot water and exhibit threshold effect(Figure ).
Amino carboxylic acids form very stable complexes, when reacting with metal ions.
They react stoichiometrically and can be formed quantitatively to determine calcium
and magnesium by titration. Disodium-ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and
nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) are categorized in these groups [17] (Figure ).
Several hydroxyl groups containing organic compounds precipitate bi- and
trivalent metal cations in alkaline medium and also acts as effective sequestering
agents; however, they are not effective for calcium and magnesium. Some of the
well-known products in this category are glycolic acid, gluconic acid, and citric
acid (Figure ).
Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid also prevents or removes scales by forming
water-soluble complex compounds, which vigorously react with metal ions [18].
Gluconic acid is obtained from fruit, honey, and wine. In an aqueous solution at
neutral pH, gluconic acid forms gluconate ion, which is used in cleaning products
in which it dissolves mineral deposits through the formation of ligand with metal
compounds [19]. Citric acid also strongly interacts with active metal components.
This interaction helps metal dispersion and decreases the specific surface area and
pore volume of the metal components. The addition of citric acid increases the
amount of metal ion adsorption. Increasing the adsorption depends on the forma-
tion of more complex structures (Scheme ).
Figure 1.
Organophosphonic acids.
Figure 2.
Disodium-ethylenediaminetetraacetic acids and nitrilotriacetic acid.
Figure 3.
Hydroxy acids sequestering agents.
Dyes in Industry
Scheme 2.
Coordination of metal ions with different chelating agents.
Glycolic acid exhibits better chelation power in all metal ions because of the
lower molecular weight, which helps to remove all metal ions. Glycolic acid, which
is a naturally occurring organic agent, exhibits more penetration of metal ions.
Natural chelates are biodegradable and non-toxic to the environment. Under
natural conditions, EDTA is converted into ethylenediaminetriacetic acid, and then
forms a ring structure with other metals, creating persistent organic pollutants [20].
Kabir and Koh [21] have demonstrated that glycolic acid provides effective chela-
tion efficiency for a moderate acid donor. Consequently, glycolic acid exhibited a
higher percentage of dyebath exhaustions and better dye ability than other organic
chelating agents.
. Dispersing agent
Disperse dyes are nonionic chemicals that are barely soluble in water and often
crystallize with varying particle size [22]. These characteristics are inadequate
for dispersing dyes of water and cause unleveled dyeing. To achieve the required
particle size and distribution, the disperse dye is milled, usually in the presence
of a dispersing agent [23]. Generally, the dispersing agents are anionic, e.g., lig-
ninsulfonates, or polycondensates of arylsulfonic acids with formaldehyde, which
facilitate milling. Dispersing agents have shown a dual function role: breaking
down aggregated dye particles and dispersing dyes in the dye liquor. Dispersing
agents consists of high-molecular weight or polymeric compounds in which polar
or ionizing groups alternate with nonpolar groups along the chain. The backbone
of a dispersing agent is nonpolar, while the polar or ionizing groups are located in
the side chains. Johnson [24] demonstrated that the adsorption of dispersing agent
is oriented parallel to the surface, so that the nonpolar groups adjoin to the surface
and the polar groups turn outward.
The application of disperse dyes on polyester fabric mainly occurs via the inclu-
sion of dispersing agents. The hydrophobic tails of the dispersing-agent molecules
are oriented toward the center of the dye micelle, which facilitates micellar solubili-
zation of the disperse dye molecules, thereby conferring higher dye solubility.
The disperse dyeing mechanism has been categorized in four stages: (i) dissolution
of dye in water by the formation of the dye micelle with dispersing agents;
(ii) transference of dye molecules from the solution to the surface of the fiber;
(iii) replenishment of dyebath by the dissolution of solid material from the disper-
sion; and (iv) diffusion of dye into the fiber (Figure ).
Dyeing Chemicals
DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.81438
Murray and Mortimer [25] mentioned sodium dinaphthylmethane sulfonate
and lignosulfonates as agents used for disperse dyes. A combination of dispersing
agents and water-soluble polymers, for example, poly (vinyl alcohol), sodium
polyacrylate, and the maleic anhydride-styrene copolymer, in admixture with
anionic surfactants, would be useful in processing the pigments. Wolf and Bauer
[26] suggested the use of dissolved disperse dyes in dimethylformamide and formed
dispersions by pouring these solutions into aqueous solutions of the dispersing
agents. Dispersing agents formed the dispersion by varying particle size of disperse
dyes (Figure ).
Heimanns [27] explained that a high-concentration of dispersing agent acts as a
barrier to diffusion and reduces the dye yield in thermo-fixation. For better color yield,
liquid brands of disperse dyes contain a smaller amount of dispersing agent. To ensure
stability, the amount of dispersing agents must be maintained in the dye bath [8].
. Leveling agents
To achieve uniform dyeing on fabric, it is essential to add a suitable leveling agent in
the dye baths. However, it is quite difficult to explain the functions and actions of level-
ing agents. Werner [4] explained that the effects of textile auxiliaries, such as leveling
agents, would appear at first sight to contradict the very nature of physical methods.
Figure  shows that equilibrium in dyebath-fiber systems is caused by a large
number of processes that play an important part in producing good dyeing. Leveling
agents enhance the force in a state of association equilibrium in the dye bath. Werner
[4] investigated that the formation of dyes and leveling agents represents bonding
similar to what occurs in the dyeing of fibers. The effects of leveling agents are: (i)
leveling agents tend to decrease the absorption of dyes by forming a dye-auxiliary
Figure 4.
Sodium dinaphthylmethane sulfonate and sodium lignosulfonate.
Figure 5.
Mechanism for dyeing of polyester with disperse dye and dispersing agents.
Dyes in Industry
complex with free dyes maintaining equilibrium; (ii) leveling agents act as retarding
agents; and (iii) dye migration proceeds slowly, leads better leading to improved
leveling of dye on the fiber. A cationic polyethoxylated amine can perform strong
leveling action. The greater cationic character a strong complex formation, pro-
nounced retardation of dyeing, and higher risk of precipitation (Figure ).
The polyethoxylated chain is longer (n>50), and the dye auxiliary complex
is dispersed by the cationic leveling agents. Amphoteric leveling agents have both
anionic and cationic groups, so its activation depends on the dye bath pH [20].
. Electrolyte
During dyeing in the dyebath, electrolyte serves as three important roles
driving dye into textiles causing, maximum exhaustion of dye molecules through
the presence of salt, and fixing dyestuff to the cellulose material [28]. The dyeing
mechanism of reactive dye can be classified into two phases, exhaustion and fixation.
The process is lengthy because considerable time is spent on the controlled heating
of the dyebath and the portion-wise addition of salt and alkali to avoid unleveled
dyeing and maximize the exhaustion and fixation [20]. A colorless crystalline solid
NaCl composed of inorganic compound of sodium and chloride, a salt in which ionic
bonds hold the two components together in the familiar water-soluble white crystals,
has a key role in the textile dyeing process in maintaining the electrolytic balance
in the textile dyeing process. Glauber’s salt is the common name for sodium sulfate
dehydrates Na2SO4. 10H2O; it occurs as white or colorless monoclinic crystals, which
are most commonly used in the dyeing industry [29]. Vacuum salt is manufactured
by recrystallization of purified brine solution. In the vacuum crystallization process,
raw salt is dissolved in water to make a saturated solution and clarify the impurities
from the bottom. A vacuum is generated by using a suitable vacuum pump [30].
Figure 7.
Different leveling agents.
Figure 6.
Equilibrium in dyebath-fiber systems containing leveling agents.
Dyeing Chemicals
DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.81438
When cotton/bast fibers are immersed in water, its surface due to the hydroxyl ions
also becomes anionic; hence, the dye particles and the cellulosic fiber tend to repel
each other. So, the level of substantivity is reduced. The addition of salt creates
an electrical positive double layer, which hides the negative electrostatic charge
(Donnan Potential) of the cellulose surface. This allows the dye to approach the
fiber, allowing better interaction of Van der Waals forces as well; this improves the
substantivity. Neale etal. [31] proposed the existence of the Donnan equilibrium.
The idea of the Donnan equilibrium was employed for the modern electrochemical
theories of the dyeing of cellulose from aqueous solutions of direct dyes [32].
NaCl enhances the diffusion of dye and its adsorption onto fiber. Bicarbonate
and carbonate increase the dye bath pH and perform dye fixation through the
formation of covalent bonds. “Bolaform” electrolytes contain anionic and cationic
organic groups, which are separated by large distances. The word ‘bola’ means a
long cord with heavy balls. The alkyl chains whose lengths are sufficiently long act
as electrolyte to become surface-active compounds. Hamada etal. [33] extensively
studied various physical properties of bolaform electrolytes or amphiphilies. The
bolaform electrolytes or amphiphilies contain a single positive or negative site
(Figure ).
. pH control agents
Dyebath pH is adjusted prior to the dyeing process; otherwise, it may affect
various factors, such as the absorption of dye into the fiber, by increasing or
reducing alkalinity [34]. The pH controlling agents play three important roles:
(a) maintain a high degree of acidity; (b) control the pH within narrow toler-
ances; and (c) slide the pH in acidic conditions [35]. The pH controlling agents
are usually based on two chemicals, a weak acid and its salt, with a stronger
base such as acetic acid, sodium acetate, or phosphoric acid-sodium phosphate.
When the dyeing temperature increases, pH control agents release more acidic
compounds. Ammonium sulfate decomposes gradually, proucing ammonia
and sulfuric acid, which is a strong acid that subsequently lowers the pH when
ammonia escapes, at boiling temperatures. However, enclosed or partially
enclosed machine, such as a winch, it is not very efficient because ammonia is
prevented from escaping into the dye bath (Scheme ).
Organic esters are also used as an alternative method for obtaining a pH that
slides in the direction of acidity under the conditions of processing. In 1953,
Brotherton Co. Ltd. introduced the Estrocon process, which is based on the addition
Figure 8.
Bolaform electrolyte.
Scheme 3.
Dissociation of ammonium salt.
Dyes in Industry
of diethyl tartrate or ethyl lactate for dyeing wool with acid milling dyes and
chrome dyes by the single-bath method [36] (Scheme ).
Almost 35years ago, Sandoz introduced the Sandacid V process, in which
γ-butyrolactone undergoes hydrolysis to produce butyric acid [37] (Scheme ).
Koh etal. [37] found that hydrolysable organic esters achieved a relatively wider
range of pH sliding than ammonium sulfate or sodium di hydrogen phosphate, which
can produce good exhaustion with satisfactory dyeing in the closed dyeing process.
. Surfactants
Surfactant molecules should have surface active properties with the chemical
structure of a hydrophilic (water loving) and hydrophobic (having little attraction
for organic molecules) balance [38] (Figure ).
These molecules get preferentially oriented at the interface between air and
water, which lowers the surface tension of water substantially when dissolved in
the concentration range of 0.1–10g/l. The driving force for the activation of surface
active agents is the formation of micelles, in which the lyophobic tails are associated
with themselves, and the hydrophilic heads are surrounded by water molecules.
Surfactants are classified into different ways such as use, ionic charge, and chemical
structure. According to the ionic structure, surfactants can be classified into four
categories: anionic, cationic, amphoteric, and nonionic [39]. Anionic surfactants
are surfactants that are ionized into anions and cations but the anion is the domi-
nating ion in the solution. Examples are alkyl benzene sulfonate and sodium lauryl
sulfate (Figure ).
An ionic surface active agent that produces cation as the dominating ion when
dissolved in water is called a cationic surfactant. For example, dodecyl dimethyl
ammonium chloride and distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (Figure ).
Nonionic surfactants that does not show any ionic behavior when dissolved in
water are called nonionic surfactants. Examples are Lanolin ethoxylate and glycerol
monostearate (Figure ).
Scheme 5.
Dissociation of γ-butyrolactone.
Figure 9.
Schematic of a surfactant molecule.
Scheme 4.
Action of ethyl lactate as pH sliding agents.
Dyeing Chemicals
DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.81438
Surfactants that ionize and produce large segments (these segments are called
Zwitter ions) carrying both anionic and cationic ions when dissolved in water are
called amphoteric surfactants. Lauryl dimethyl betaine and cocamidopropyl betaine
are the most commonly used (Figure ).
Surfactants are widely used as wetting agents, emulsifiers, detergent, lubricants,
or dispersing agents [40].
. Anti-foaming agents
The dyeing process can lead to the formation of macro and micro foams during
circulation of dyes and auxiliaries in the dye bath. A macro foam is displayed with
large bubbles, which are visible on the surface of the system and produce cosmetic
imperfections [41]. A typical list of anti-foaming agents is as follows: 2-ethyl
hexanol (EH), tributyl phosphate (TBP), poly (dimethyl siloxane) (PDMS) amides,
mineral oil, fatty acids, and their derivatives [42] (Figure ).
Figure 10.
Structure of anionic surfactants.
Figure 11.
Structure of cationic surfactants.
Figure 12.
Structure of nonionic surfactants.
Figure 13.
Structure of amphoteric surfactants.
Dyes in Industry

Silicone-based anti-foaming agents consist of small polar groups and hydro-
phobic polymer chain. The hydrophobic polymer chain is typically a permethylated
siloxane. The PDMS chain gains its hydrophilic character by modification with
poly (ethylene glycol) (PEG) and poly (propylene glycol) (PPG). PEG and PPG are
water-soluble polymers that allow materials to retain good water swellability [43].
A decrease in foaming occurs with an increase in the hydrophilicity of the co-poly-
mers. When the hydrophilicity of the copolymers increased, the micro foams were
removed more effectively. Kekevi etal. [43] demonstrate that the uniqueness of
these anti-foaming agents is caused by two properties—flexibility, which enhances
the acquired conformations that result in efficient packing at various interfaces and
lower cohesive energy, which is derived from the cross-sectional area of the siloxane
at the interface (Scheme ).
. Reducing agents
Beginning of the nineteenth century, sodium dithionate (Na2S2O4) was
introduced as a reducing agent for the vat dyeing process [8]. Effective sodium
dithionate, also called hydrose, provides an effective reduction in indigo dyes [44].
The amount of Na2S2O4 used in the reduction of indigo dyeing, formed a large
amount of by products and sulfite (SO32) and sulfate (SO42) ions- (Scheme ).
Figure 14.
Anti-foaming agents.
Scheme 6.
Silicone-based anti-foaming agents.
Scheme 7.
Oxidation-reduction of indigo.

Dyeing Chemicals
DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.81438
Stripping methods, mostly used in textile finishing, can remove dye from col-
ored fabric. The process is named as ‘back stripping’ ordestructive stripping’. The
depth of shade is changed by back stripping; on the other hand, dyes are chemically
altered by destructive stripping. Fono and Montclair [45] showed that dyes contain-
ing azo groups that can be chemically reduced to an almost colorless amine by using
chemical reducing agents. The mechanism of reductive stripping depends on the
structure of dyes and fibers and the chemical nature of reducing agents. Chavan
[46] explained that different chemical combinations of reducing agents and strip-
ping assistants, which are being used to strip the dye from fabric (Scheme ).
Sodium formaldehyde sulfoxylate (CH3NaO3S) (Rongalite C) and Rongalite FD
are also used as reducing agents in the dyeing industry (Scheme ).
As sodium dithionate is highly toxic, many researchers [47] have investigated
to replacing it with ecological reducing agents such as glucose, fructose, inverted
sugar, and molasses (Figure ).
Many studies have been devoted to catalysts that accelerate the reduction
of vat dyes when added to certain reducing agents. BASF-marketed a catalyst,
bis-(dimethylglyoximato-diamminocobaltinitrite) for use as a reducing agent.
. Softeners
A softener is a chemical used to make the touch of fabric more pleasing.
Softened fabrics are fluffier and have better drape ability. In addition to esthetics,
softeners improve abrasion resistance, improve tearing strength, and reduce needle
cutting when the garments are sewn. Softeners are divided into three major chemi-
cal categories: anionic, cationic, and nonionic. Anionic softeners have a negative
charge on the molecule, which comes from the carboxylate group (COO),
sulfate group (OSO3), or phosphate group (PO4). Fatty alcohol sulfates are
made by the reaction of a hydrophobe with sulfuric acid [17] (Scheme ).
Scheme 8.
Stripping process of azo dyes.
Scheme 9.
Rongalite FD salts.
Figure 15.
Ecological reducing agents.
Dyes in Industry

Fewer sulfate groups result in better softeners. Lightly sulfonated oils are sometimes
called self-emulsifying because they form turbid water solutions (Scheme ).
Cationic softeners have a positive charge on the large part of the molecule. The
amine becomes functionalized under a pH of 7. Quaternary ammonium salts are
activated at all pH levels. The ionic interaction causes complete exhaustion from
baths and orientation on the fiber surfaces, which cause good slipperiness and
reduction in the static charge on the fabric surface. There are several cationic soft-
eners that are usually used in the textile industry, such as fatty amines, fatty amino
esters, fatty amino amides, and quaternary ammonium salts (Scheme ).
The nonionic softener has three subcategories: ethylene oxide derivatives,
silicones, and hydrocarbon waxes based on paraffin or polyethylene. Polyethylene
emulsions are hard, waxy films, which serve to reduce the coefficient of fric-
tion. Silicones are polysiloxane polymers. Silicon resembles carbon in which it is
tetravalent and forms a covalent bond with other elements (Scheme ).
Scheme 10.
Fatty alcohol sulfates formation.
Scheme 11.
Formation of sulfated triglycerides.
Scheme 12.
Synthesis of quaternary ammonium salts.
Scheme 13.
Reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane.

Dyeing Chemicals
DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.81438
. Anti-creasing agents
Crease is formed in cotton fiber because of the intermolecular hydrogen bonding
of primary and secondary hydroxyl groups of the polymer chains. The amorphous
regions of the hydrogen bonds can easily break down by folding. In the folding
state, the broken hydrogen bonds stabilize. Different durable press finishes have
been used for many years for use in cotton fabric. N-methylol compounds such as
dihydroxyethylene urea react readily with the hydroxyl groups of cellulose chains
[48] (Figure ).
N-Hydroxyethyl acrylamide is also used as a cross-linking agent for cellulosic
fibers (Figure ).
Activated vinyl groups or divinyl sulfone and N, N-methylene-bis-acrylamide
are also used cross-linking agents. Divinyl sulfone precursors are used for the
cross-linking reaction with cellulose. Cross-linking reactions with epoxides such
as epichlorohydrin are mostly used on cellulosic fibers. In addition, aziridine
derivatives such as tetramethylene-bis-(N, N-ethylene urea) and trisaziridinyltri-
azine are effective cross-linking agents [49] (Figure ).
Figure 16.
Cross-linking agents based on N-hydroxyethyl and N-alkoxymethyl compounds.
Figure 17.
Cross-linking agents based on reactive monomers.
Figure 18.
Cross-linking agents based on aziridine derivatives.
Dyes in Industry

© 2018 The Author(s). Licensee IntechOpen. This chapter is distributed under the terms
of the Creative Commons Attribution License (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/
by/3.0), which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium,
provided the original work is properly cited.
. Conclusion
Although considerable research has been conducted regarding dyeing auxilia-
ries, chemical and other related industries have faced many problems with respect
to environmental issues and cost effectiveness for consumers. Although thermo-
dynamic studies of dyeing can make useful contributions to the general theories of
intermolecular forces, diffusion processes, and the influence of different param-
eters such as dye concentration, temperature, dyeing time, and polymer structure
remain largely unexplained. When equilibrium studies are carried out and assessed
in conjunction with the growing amount of information on the structure of dyeing
chemicals and aqueous solutions, their relevance to the dyeing theory should not be
underestimated. Due to the lack of chemical knowledge of dyers, quality dyeing is
deteriorating with a significant effluent load. This study clearly shows that the dif-
ferent dyeing chemicals used in the dye houses also need investigation to determine
the procedures in which the chemicals are used to dye natural and synthetic textiles.
This may be a good first step in presenting different chemicals used in the color-
ation industry.
Author details
Shekh Md.Mamun Kabir1* and JoonseokKoh2
1Department of Wet Process Engineering, Bangladesh University of Textiles,
Dhaka, Bangladesh
2Division of Chemical Engineering, Konkuk University, Seoul, South Korea
*Address all correspondence to: mamunkabir.butex@gmail.com

Dyeing Chemicals
DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.81438
References
[1] Woodall P.The new titans: A survey
of the world economy. The Economist.
16 September 2006
[2] Aspland JR.A series on dyeing,
Chapter 8: Disperse dyes and their
application to polyester. Textile Chemist
and Colorist. 1993;(1):21-25. ISSN
0040-490X
[3] Holme I.Fibre physics and chemistry
in relation to coloration. Coloration
Technology. 1967;(1):31-43. ISSN:
1478-4408
[4] Werner L.The mode of action of
non-ionic levelling agents. J.S.D.C.
1958;(4):221-233. ISSN: 1478-4408
[5] Derbyshire AN, Peters RH.
Interaction between Chlorazol Sky Blue
FF and Chrysophenine G in aqueous
solution. J.S.D.C. 1956;(6):268-277.
ISSN: 1478-4408
[6] Schwen G, Schmidt G.Some
experiments on the effect of dye, fibre
and atmosphere on light fastness.
J.S.D.C. 1959;(2):101-105. ISSN:
1478-4408
[7] Graff JH.The constitution of
detergents in concentration with the
cleaning of ancient textiles. Studies in
Conservation. 1968;(3):122-141. ISSN:
2047-0584
[8] Valko EI.Textile auxiliaries in
dyeing. Review Progress in Coloration.
1972;(1):50-62. ISSN: 1478-4408
[9] Jones F.The theory of dyeing. Review
Progress in Coloration. 1967;(1):15-22.
ISSN: 1478-4408
[10] Wu FC, Tseng RL, Juang RS.Role
of pH in metal adsorption from
aqueous solutions containing chelating
agents onto chitosan. Industrial and
Engineering Chemistry Research.
1999;:270-275. ISSN 0888-5885
[11] Aspland JR.A series on dyeing,
Chapter 8: Disperse dyes and their
application to polyester. Textile Chemist
and Colorist. 1992;(12):18-23. ISSN
0040-490X
[12] Ahmed NSE.The use of sodium
edate in the dyeing of cotton with
reactive dyes. Dyes and Pigments.
2005;:221-225. ISSN: 0143-7208
[13] Dawson TL, Roberts BP.The
essential role of pH control in the dyeing
of carpet fibres. J.S.D.C. 1979a;(2):
47-54. ISSN: 1478-4408
[14] Rice JW.Principles of textile
conservation science. Textile Museum
Journal. 1966;:15-37
[15] McCarthy JP, Drozdowski RE.
Household fabric softeners: The
chemistry and characteristic of cationic
softeners. Soap, Cosmetics, Chemical
Specialties. 1989;(94):33-34. ISSN:
1478-4408
[16] Duin MV, Peters JA, Kieboom APG,
Bekkum HV.A general coordination-
ionization scheme for polyhydroxy
carboxylic acids in water. Recueil des
Travaux Chimiques des Pays-Bas.
1989;:57-60
[17] Tomasino C.Chemistry &
Technology of Fabric Preparation
& Finishing. North Carolina: North
Carolina State University, Raleigh; 1992.
ISBN 0840002297
[18] Chen XY, Lin Q , Luo YM, He YF,
Zhen SJ, Yu YL, etal. The role of citric
acid on the phytoremediation of heavy
metal contaminated soil. Chemosphere.
2003;(6):807-811. ISSN: 0045-6535
[19] Tandy S, Bossart K, Mueller R,
Ritschel J, Hauser L, Schulin R, etal.
Extraction of heavy metals from soils
using biodegradable chelating agents.
Environmental Science & Technology.
2004;(3):937-944. ISSN: 0013-936X
Dyes in Industry

[20] Broadbent AD.Basic Principles of
Textile Coloration. Bradford, UK: SDC;
2001. ISBN 0-901956-76-7
[21] Kabir SMM, Koh J.Effect of
chelating agent in disperse dye
dyeing on polyester fabric. Fibers and
Polymers. 2017;(12):2315-2321. ISSN:
1229-9197
[22] Biedermann W.Effect of crystal
modification on dyeing behaviour of
disperse dyes. Coloration Technology.
1971;(4):105-111. ISSN: 1478-4408
[23] Ingamells W.Colour for Textiles: A
User’s Handbook. Bradford, UK: SDC;
1993. ISBN 0-901956-56-2
[24] Johnson A.The Theory of
Coloration of Textiles. Bradford, UK:
SDC; 1989. ISBN 0-901-95648-1
[25] Murray A, Mortimer K.Carrier
dyeing. Review Progress of Coloration.
1971;(1):67-72. ISSN: 0557-9325
[26] Wolf, Bauer. Melliand textilber.
1968;:464. ISSN: 0341-0781
[27] Heimanns S.Textile auxiliaries:
Dispersing agents. Review Progress
in Coloration. 1981;(1):1-8. ISSN:
1478-4408
[28] Dawson TL, Roberts BP.Progress
towards a greener textile industry.
Coloration Technology. 2011;:1-8
[29] Broadale G, Giauque WF.The heat
of hydration of sodium sulfate. Low
temperature heat capacity and entropy
of sodium sulfate decahydrate. Journal
of the American Chemical Society.
1958;:2042-2044
[30] Ann A.Handbook of chemistry and
physics. In: 71st edition. Michigan: CRC
Press; 1990
[31] Neale, Hanson, Stringfellow. The
absorption of dyestuffs by cellulose.
Part VI.The effect of modification
of the cellulose, and a theory of the
electrolyte effect. Transactions of the
Faraday Society. 1935;:1718
[32] Iyer SRS, Jayaram R.Studies on the
Donnan potential in systems containing
cellulose and aqueous electrolyte
solution. J.S.D.C. 1970;(9):398-402.
ISSN: 1478-4408
[33] Hamada K, Haizuka H, Yamazaki A.
Effects of a bolaform electrolyte on the
sorption of acid dyes by a nylon 6 film.
Journal of Applied Polymer Science.
1998;:2247-2254
[34] Dawson TL, Roberts BP.The
essential role of pH control in the dyeing
of carpet fibres. J.S.D.C. 1979b;(2):
47-54. ISSN: 1478-4408
[35] Kamat SY, Borkar HS. pH and
buffer systems in dyeing. Colourage.
1993;(1):19. ISSN: 0010-1826
[36] Hannay RJ, Major WH.The use of
hydrolysable esters in the control of
dye baths. J.S.D.C. 1953;(6):195-201.
ISSN: 1478-4408
[37] Koh J, Sim G, Kim J. pH control
in the dyeing of polyamide with
acid dyes. Coloration Technology.
2001;(6):195-201. ISSN: 1478-4408
[38] Schroder FR.Concentrations of
anionic surfactants in receiving riverine
water. Tenside, Surfactants, Detergents.
1995;(6):492-497
[39] Samanta AK.Efficacy of selective
surfactants/detergents as washing
agents on soiled white and dyed cotton
fabrics. Indian Journal of Fibre &
Textile Research. 2004;:223-232. DOI:
10.1051/matecconf/20171080 3001
[40] Zana R.Specialist Surfactants.
London: Blackie Academic and
Professional; 1997
[41] Rosen MJ.Surfactants and Interfacial
Phenomena. 2nd ed. NewYork: John
Wiley & Sons; 1989. p.1989

Dyeing Chemicals
DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.81438
[42] Jha BK, Patist A, Shah DO.Effect
of antifoaming agents on the Micellar
stability and foam ability of sodium
dodecyl sulfate solutions. Langmuir.
1999;:3042-3044
[43] Kekevi B, Berber H, Yildirim H.
Synthesis and characterization of
silicone-based surfactants as anti-
foaming agents. Journal of Surfactants
and Detergents. 2012;:73-81
[44] Saikhao L, Setthayanond J,
Karpkrid T, Suwanruji P.Comparison
of sodium dithionate and glucose as a
reducing agent for natural indigo dyeing
on cotton fabrics. In: ICMAA, MATEC
Web of Conferences. Vol. 108. 2017
[45] Fono A, Montclair. New process of
color stripping dyed textile fabrics. US
Patent No. 4227881; 1980
[46] Chavan RB. Stripping of Dyestuff
from Textiles. US Patent No. 3591325;
1969
[47] Shukla SR, Pai RS.Sulphur dyeing
using non-sulphide reducing agents.
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile
Research. 2004;:454-461. ISSN:
0975-1025
[48] Hassan MS.Crease recovery
properties of cotton fabrics modified by
urea resins under the effect of gamma
irradiation. Radiation Physics and
Chemistry. 2009;:333-337
[49] Fikentscher R, Bille H. Chemical
Aftertreatments of Textiles. New York:
Willey InterScience; 1971. p. 357
... molecules. An electrolyte also fixes dye stuff to the textile material especially cellulose [11]. Its absence therefore means that the coloured acid dye anions was not able to transport quickly to interact with the nylon fibre within the dyeing interval. ...
Article
Full-text available
Nylon 6 fabric was dyed with C.I. Acid Yellow 23 at a temperature 50o C using sodium chloride (NaCl) and citric acid as auxiliaries. The adsorption kinetic mechanism was studied using two models. Results of the UV-Vis spectroscopy indicated that colour yield of C.I. Acid Yellow 23 reduced when more than 1% (acid) and 5% (salt) concentration were used respectively for dyeing. NaCl however had the most inhibitive effect on the dye colour yield. The adsorption kinetics mechanism result fitted the pseudo-second-order-kinetic model with R2 of 0.993. Key words: Nylon 6, Acid dye, Sodium Chloride, Citric acid, exhaustion, colour yield, adsorption kinetic
Article
Purpose This paper aims to study the physical and chemical characteristics of inkjet titanium dioxide inks for cotton fabric digital printing. Design/methodology/approach Different dispersing agents through the reaction of glycerol monooleate and toluene diisocyanate were prepared and then performed by using three different polyols (succinic anhydride-modified polyethylene glycol PEG 600, EO/PO Polyether Monoamine and p-chloro aniline Polyether Monoamine), to obtain three different dispersing agents for water-based titanium dioxide inkjet inks. The prepared dispersants were characterized using FTIR to monitor the reaction progress. Then the prepared dispersants were formulated in titanium dioxide inkjet inks formulation and characterized by particle size, dynamic surface tension, transmission electron microscopy, viscosity and zeta potential against commercial dispersants. Also, the study was extended to evaluate the printed polyester by using the prepared inks according to washing and crock fastness. Findings The obtained results showed that p-chloro aniline Polyether Monoamine (J) and succinic anhydride modified polyethylene glycol PEG 600 (H) dispersants provided optimum performance as compared to commercial standards especially, particle size distribution data while EO/PO Polyether Monoamine based on dispersant was against and then failed with the wettability and dispersion stability tests. Practical implications These ink formulations could be used for printing on cotton fabric by DTG technique of printing and can be used for other types of fabrics. Originality/value The newly prepared ink formulation for digital textile printing based on synthesized polyurethane prepolymers has the potential to be promising in this type of printing inks, to prevent clogging of nozzles on the printhead and to improve the print quality on the textile fiber.
Article
In this study, the modification of toluene diisocyanate “TDI”-based prepolymers was performed using three different polyols (trimethylol propane “TMP,” glycerol and castor oil). The prepared modified prepolymers were terminated using amino-polyether (Jeffamine M-2070) and maleic acid-modified polyethylene glycol “PEG 1000” to obtain dispersing agents for water-based disperse dye inkjet inks. Dispersants T1–T5 (based on TMP), dispersants G1–G5 (glycerol) and dispersants C1–C5 (castor oil) were characterized using FTIR to monitor the reaction progress. Inkjet inks made using these dispersants were characterized by particle size, dynamic surface tension, rheology profile and accelerated stability against commercial dispersant. The results revealed that glycerol and TMP-based dispersants provided optimum performance as compared to commercial standard, while castor oil-based dispersants failed the wettability and dispersion stability tests.
Article
Full-text available
Polyamide-12/Portland cement nanocomposite was prepared by using the exfoliated adsorption method. The fabricated nanocomposite was applied first time to remove Congo red (CR), brilliant green (BG), methylene blue (MB), and methyl red (MR) from the synthetic wastewater. The polymer nanocomposite was characterized by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, scanning electron microscopy, energy-dispersive X-ray spectroscopy, elemental mapping, Brunauer–Emmett–Teller surface area analysis, and X-ray diffraction. The adsorption was rapid and all the studied dyes were absorbed on the surface of the polymer nanocomposite in 90 min. The point of zero charge was found at pH 5 and the factors such as pH, time, and temperature were found to affect the adsorption efficiency. Freundlich isotherm and pseudo-second-order models well-fitted the adsorption isotherm and kinetics data, respectively. The calculated maximum adsorption capacity was 161.63, 148.54, 200.40, and 146.41 mg/g for CR, BG, MB, and MR, respectively. The mode of the adsorption process was endothermic, spontaneous, and physical involving electrostatic attraction. On an industrial scale, the high percentage of desorption and slow decrease in the percentage of adsorption after every five regeneration cycles confirm the potential, practicality, and durability of the nanocomposite as a promising and advanced adsorbent for decolorization of colored wastewater.
Chapter
Considering the environmental impact, the dyeing industry is one of the most notorious industries. The dyeing process involves the transfer of dye to the finished textile to add permanent and long-lasting colour. For decades, various dyeing techniques for natural fibres have been developed to provide the desired shades and colour fastness to the fabric. The conventional dyeing methods of natural fibres consume a huge amount of water during the dyeing processes and finishing operation, require lots of energy and produce an enormous amount of chemicals as wastage, which are discharged into the water bodies along with unfixed dyes as industrial effluent, thus causing severe water pollution. Thus there are several environmental and sustainable issues related to the dyeing industry, which must be addressed immediately. In this chapter, we will shed light on such issues and will discuss recent developments in this context.
Article
Full-text available
The textile sector is the backward linkage industry for the $30 billion USD apparel sector of Bangladesh, which is the key contributor to the rapid growth of Bangladesh’s economy. This major export-oriented sector of the country consumes a large amount of complex chemical substances for different stages of its processing. It is estimated that almost 1.47 million metric tons of chemicals have been consumed by the textile sector of Bangladesh in fiscal year 2017–2018, which is worth over about $2 billion USD. The chemicals that are consumed by the textile sector are mostly imported from other countries. Alongside imported chemicals, locally produced chemicals are also consumed. This rapidly growing sector has faced hurdles regarding safe, sound, and secure management of chemicals. Textile industries depend on chemical management regulations provided by buyers. There is no existing government policy on textile chemical safety and security. Local textile industries are heavily dependent on chemical management regulations provided by multinational apparel brands, commonly known as buyers. There are stringent regulations based on different private and global chemical management programs, policies, treaties, and frameworks, which mainly address chemical safety and occupational health and safety but hardly address chemical security. Buyers have limited control over chemical formulators, mode of transportation of potentially hazardous chemicals from port to factory gate, and internal transportation of chemicals within the facility and chemical storage. There are significant lapses in electric surveillance, maintaining “live” inventory, and proper segregation in chemical storage units onsite. These practices possess threats of chemical accidents, theft of chemicals, and siege or sabotage within textile industries. This article represents the current practices and prospects of chemical safety and security management in textile industries of Bangladesh. It provides a detailed analysis of textile chemicals consumed in Bangladesh, particularly in knit and woven dyeing industries. Different global and sectoral chemical safety and security frameworks have been analyzed with respect to textile chemicals here. The article aims at cross-linking global, private, and public frameworks for chemical safety and security and addressing key elements of a national textile chemical safety and security policy for Bangladesh. This study could be useful to develop chemical security policies that are missing in the national legal instrument of Bangladesh and to support buyers in efforts to incorporate chemical security and modify safety aspects in the regulations.
Article
Full-text available
A traditional reducing agent in an indigo dyeing process with cotton fabrics is sodium dithionite (Na2S2O4) which is environmentally unfavorable because the resulting by-products cause various problems to the disposal wastewaters. In this research, glucose was used as a possible replacement of Na2S2O4 in indigo dyeing. The comparison of reduction power of Na2S2O4 and glucose for natural indigo dyeing on cotton fabrics based on reduction potential was analyzed. The optimum reduction temperature for natural indigo dye of both reducing agents was at 70°C. The reduction time did not have a significant effect on the reduction potential under the condition studied. Na2S2O4 could give higher color strength than glucose. However, wash fastness of the fabric samples from a glucose reduction was slightly better than Na2S2O4 ones. Hence, glucose virtually has a potential to be used as a green reducing agent in natural indigo dyeing.
Article
The use of buffers such as sodium acetate and acetic acid to stabilize pH levels during dyeing is discussed. The action of buffers is explained and reproducibility problems with disperse dyes are considered. Sandoz's Sandacid PBI and its use as an acid buffer stabilizing pH in the weakly acid region are described briefly.
Article
Four different types of surfactant, namely alkyl benzene sulphonate (A), sodium lauryl sulphate (B), glycerol monostearate (C) and distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (D), have been used in single and multiple washing of a soiled white/dyed cotton fabric to determine their critical micelle concentration (CMC) values and to assess their washing performance in terms of changes in some of the physical properties of fabrics, per cent soil removal from soiled white fabric and maximum retention of colour depth of dyed fabric. The washing performance of each surfactant at lower concentration level by multiple wash cycles has also been studied. Wash fastness rating by grey scale and washing performance in terms of retention of colour depth of reactive dye dyed cotton fabric have been assessed and compared by measuring the corresponding K/S values and colour difference values after washing with these surfactants by ISO-II and ISO-III methods. It is observed that the CMC value and the corresponding degree of soil removal at CMC level are 1.9% and 90.8% for surfactant A, 1.5% and 90.6% for surfactant B, 2% and 92% for surfactant C, and 1% and 39.4% for surfactant D respectively. On multiple wash, the surfactants C and D do not show good performance at lower concentration (0.5-1%), while the surfactant B is found to be better than others. Considering the changes in physical properties of fabrics after washing, washing performance, critical micelle concentration of surfactants and retention of colour depth after washing, the surfactant B shows an overall balanced performance.
Article
Cotton hanks were dyed with three different sulphur dyes using non-sulphide reducing agents such as glucose, fructose, invert sugar and molasses. The alkalies employed for reduction were sodium carbonate and sodium hydroxide. Invert sugar as a reducing agent and sodium carbonate as alkali proved to be better as this combination gave results comparable to those obtained with the conventional sodium sulphide dyeing with respect to depth and tone of dyeing. The fastness properties were also found to be comparable.
Article
The fibre, dye and dyebath variables which affect the batch dyeing of polyester with disperse dyes are discussed, as are some of the chemical properties of disperse dyes which influence the normal conditions of dye application, stripping and reduction clearing. For previous instalment of this series see abstract 93W/01404.
Article
Silicone-based amphiphilic surfactants were synthesized as anti-foaming agents through a polycondensation reaction between chlorine-terminated polysiloxane and polyethers. Poly(ethylene glycol) (PEG) and poly(propylene glycol) of different molecular weights were used. The structures of these tri-block co-polymers were characterized by FTIR, 1H NMR and ESI–MS analysis. Surface tension, foam height and foam destruction properties of these co-polymers were determined. Spectroscopic analysis confirmed that bonding of polyether to polysiloxane was successful and two types of different tri-block co-polymers were obtained. The anti-foaming efficiency of these co-polymers tended to increase with an increase in the hydrophilic character of the co-polymer chains. The synthesized tri-block co-polymers, which can be used as anti-foaming agents in paper-coating applications of poly(vinyl acetate-co-butyl acrylate) latexes, showed low surface tension values, fast liquid drainage and efficient foam destruction. PEG 200-b-PDMS-b-PEG 200 was determined to be the most efficient anti-foaming agent among all co-polymers synthesized.
Article
Donnan potentials in undyed and dyed regenerated cellulose-aqueous potassium chloride solution systems have been investigated. Eight direct dyes of different structures were used to dye regenerated-cellulose sheets over a wide range of concentrations of adsorbed dye. The measured Donnan potential depends solely on the value of the total surface charge and is independent of the structure of the dyes used. The contribution to the surface charge by the intrinsic ionised carboxyl and the sulphonic acid groups (of the adsorbed dye) depends only on the total number of such groups present and not on whether the adsorbed dye is a mono- or poly-sulphonated dye. Only approximately 25 % of the total ionisable surface groups [carboxyl groups or the sulphonic acid groups (or both)] from adsorbed dye are dissociated. Direct experimental evidence has been obtained from these measurements of potential to support the use of a variable-volume term, instead of a constant-volume term, to describe the volume of the internal charged cellulose phase. The nature of this variation indicates that the total volume of the internal Donnan phase is a function of the thickness of the electrical double layer, as suggested in a theory of dyeing recently proposed.
Article
This book is the premier text on the properties and applications of surfactants. The third edition is completely updated and revised, including new information on gemini surfactants (a new type of powerful surfactant), superspreading (or superwetting) by aqueous surfactant solutions of highly hydrophobic surfaces (important in agricultural applications), and dynamic surface tension (an important interfacial property not covered in the first two editions). * Clearly explains the mechanisms by which surfactants operate in interfacial processes * Uses a minimum of mathematics in explanation of topics, making it easy-to-understand and very user-friendly * Problems are included at the end of each chapter * Includes many tables of data as reference that are not compiled elsewhere * Milton J Rosen is an expert in the field of Surfactant research