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cosmetics
Article
Herbal Cosmetics Knowledge of Arab-Choa and
Kotoko Ethnic Groups in the Semi-Arid Areas of Far
North Cameroon: Ethnobotanical Assessment and
Phytochemical Review
Evariste Fongnzossie Fedoung 1, *, Tize Zra 1, Christine Fernande Nyangono Biyegue 1,
Achille Nouga Bissoue 1, Suzanne Baraye 1and Nole Tsabang 2
1
Advanced Teacher’s Training School for Technical Education, University of Douala, Douala 1872, Cameroon;
zratiz79@yahoo.fr (T.Z.); spfernande@yahoo.fr (C.F.N.B.); anbissoue@yahoo.fr (A.N.B.);
barayesuzanne@yahoo.fr (S.B.)
2
Institute of Medical Research and Medicinal Plant Studies, Yaounde 6163, Cameroon; tsabang@hotmail.com
*Correspondence: fong_nzossie@yahoo.com; Tel.: +237-677207532
Received: 31 March 2018; Accepted: 23 April 2018; Published: 2 May 2018
Abstract:
The plant-based traditional knowledge of many Cameroonian populations concerning
beauty and skin care is still poorly documented, yet they are real resources of innovation and
economic development. The aim of this study is to document the indigenous knowledge of Choa
Arab and Kotoko ethnic group in Kousséri (Far North Region of Cameroon) about plants used for
cosmetics. Ethnobotanical data collected among key informants revealed a total of 13 plants species
belonging to 12 families used by local people. Canarium schweinfurthii Engl and Santalum album L.
obtained the highest frequency of citation. Trees are the most abundant life forms, while barks and
seeds are the most frequently used parts. More than 40% of recorded plants are used for skin care.
The cosmetic allegations of recorded plants include: dermatology, anti-cancers, antioxidant agent,
perfume, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, wounds healing activity, skin lightening, dental caries,
astringent and hair care. They all contain various phytochemicals that are of interest in cosmetics.
Despite the strong relationship between the Choa Arab and Kotoko people and herbal cosmetic
ingredients, these plants are still less investigated for their cosmetic application. The authors urge
for the development of sustainable supply chain for plants with potentials as cosmetics, involving
local communities in the planning, implementation and monitoring process, following principles of
Nagoya protocol on Access and Benefit Sharing.
Keywords: Choa Arab; Kotoko; indigenous knowledge; phytochemicals; cosmetics
1. Introduction
The Far North Region of Cameroon is part of the African dryland ecosystems comprising five main
Eco-regions: sahelian Acacia savannah, East sudanian savanna, Mandara Plateau mosaic, afrotropic
Lake and Lake Chad flooded savannah [
1
]. This area, known as semi-arid is an important reservoir
of plant biodiversity and has been receiving increasing attention from the scientific community [
2
,
3
].
This is because dryland biodiversity contains distinguishable features that are often overlooked.
These include heterogeneity, remarkable diversity of micro-organisms, presence of wild relatives
of globally important domesticated species, and traditionally adapted land use systems. As many
other dryland ecosystems around the world, the Far North Region of Cameroon is among the most
vulnerable to the global environmental problems such as desertification, climate change and loss
of genetic resources [
4
]. It contains many of Africa’s poorest and most food insecure people [
5
].
Cosmetics 2018,5, 31; doi:10.3390/cosmetics5020031 www.mdpi.com/journal/cosmetics
Cosmetics 2018,5, 31 2 of 12
Conserving and valuing drylands natural resources are considered a pathway to raise awareness
among all stakeholders and stimulate wider action to boost drylands conservation and development.
In Africa in general, local plant-based traditional knowledge have been used in conserving
biodiversity and enhancing many essential services to society including material goods (for example,
food, timber, medicines, cosmetics and fiber), ecosystem functions (flood control, climate regulation,
and nutrient cycling), and nonmaterial benefits such as recreation [
5
]. Cosmetic products, according to
European Union directives is defined as “any substance or preparation intended to be placed in contact
with the various external parts of the human body (epidermis, hair system, nails, lips and external
genital organs) or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity with a view exclusively
or principally to cleaning them, perfuming them, or protecting them in order to keep them in good
condition, change their appearance or correct body odours” [
6
]. Cosmetics have been used for as long
as there have been people to use them. They have been present in almost all civilizations, and have
been used in various forms and in many different circumstances (burial of the dead, religious rituals
and everyday life), with the aim of preserving health and amplifying beauty. Researchers have reported
the presence of paint pigments in archeological contexts over 75,000 years old. As early as 4000 BC,
ancient Egyptians used natural resources to produce cosmetics [
7
] which were an integral part of their
daily hygienic routine. They used creams and oils for protection, because of the hot and dry climatic
conditions of Egypt. Of the majority of perfumes used in that period of time in religious practices and
preservation of the dead, there were essential elements from herbs like cedar, peppermint, almond oil,
rosemary, rose, Aloe vera, sesame oil, chamomile, and lavender [
8
]. Anti-wrinkle preparations with
fresh squeezed olive oil, cypress, and scent mixed with freshly obtained milk was applied on the face
for a week by Egyptians [
9
]. Furthermore, there is literature evidence supporting that ancient Egypt
was the birthplace of aromatherapy; oils, perfumes and fragrance derived from pine trees and flowers
were used by women, which demonstrates the vital role cosmetics played for this civilization [8].
Several ethnic groups live in the Far North Region of Cameroon and results from previous
ethnographic survey have shown the predominance of five ethnic groups: Mousgoum, Bornouan,
Peulhs, Arab Choa and Kotoko. The Kotoko historically trace their origins to the Sao people,
early inhabitants of the Lake Chad area who converted to Islam beginning in the 16th century [
10
].
The Arab Choa group is found mainly in the Far North Region of Cameroon. Their origins can be
traced as far back as the original seminomadic Arab tribes that populated the reaches of southern
Egypt and pushed south into the Lake Chad region in the 14th century, where they live on the borders
of Cameroon and Chad [10].
Recent botanical surveys in the Far North Region of Cameroon revealed a woody flora made of
75 species dominated by Caesalpiniaceae and species like Piliostigma reticulatum,Annona senegalensis,
Ziziphus mauritiana,Hexalobus monopetalus,Boswellia dalzielii,Combretum glutinosum,Entada Africana and
Balanites aegyptiaca were the most represented [
11
]. Other studies reported high ecological importance
of Guiera senegalensis,Anogeissus leiocarpus and Combretum collinum [
12
]. In the sudano-sahelian zone
of the Far North Region of Cameroon, Adansonia digitata,Balanites aegyptiaca,Borassus aethiopum,
Detarium microcarpum,Diospyros mespiliformis,Haematostaphis barteri,Hyphaena thebaica,Parkiabi
globosa,Sclerocarya birrea,Ximenia americana,Vitellaria paradoxa,Vitex doniana,Tamarindus indica and
Ziziphus mauritiana have been cited among the most preferred and the most commercialized fruits
in Adamawa, FarNorth and North Regions of Cameroon [
13
]. A survey conducted in Kousseri
recorded 36 medicinal plants used to cure several ailments like diarrhoea, malaria/fever, rheumatism,
wound and cough, with Piliostigma reticulatum,Tamarindus indica,Balanites aegyptiaca,Azadirachta indica,
and Mitragyna inermis being the most cited plants [
14
]. About 29 of these medicinal plants were sold in
the markets [15].
Natural resources extracted from plants have varied uses both on an industrial and traditional
scale: pharmacology, herbal medicine, cosmetics, perfumes, dyes, insecticides, etc. Today, with the
recent development of green technologies, the use of renewable raw materials plays a central role
as an alternative to production processes that are not compatible with the principles of sustainable
Cosmetics 2018,5, 31 3 of 12
development. If pharmacopoeia that lists plants for therapeutic use have long been experiencing
significant development, work in the field of traditional cosmetics are still poorly documented
in writings. Ethnobotanical literature on folklore cosmetic knowledge is lacking in Cameroon,
though historical experiences with plants as therapeutic tools have helped to introduce many cosmetic
formulations. Indeed, early surveys on active principles of medicinal plants of semi-arid areas showed
that a number of them contain numerous phytochemicals of interest in cosmetics [
16
]. As the concept
of Cosmetopoeia is being developed today to fill this gap, plants, by their ability to produce a wide
variety of molecules, are receiving a growing interest for research in cosmetics. As for pharmacopoeia,
cosmetopoeia is the repository of the use of plants for the beauty and body care. It represents
an important part of the common history which unites the humans and their environment, and aims at
better knowledge of the traditional uses of the plants in cosmetic in order to preserve them, to optimize
their use in the respect of biodiversity and equitable benefit sharing. As the use of plant extracts in
cosmetic formulation is currently increasing, mostly because of the poor image that chemical products
have acquired during the past few years, there are many ongoing ethnobotanical investigations in
Cameroon in search of new active cosmetic ingredients in the plant world. Among the Gbays ethnic
group in East Cameroon, 36 plants and 78 derived cosmetic recipes were reported as used for facial
masks and scrubs, body cream, hair cream, and preparation for teeth hygiene and dandruff among the
Gbaya ethnic group in East Cameroon [
17
]. They all contained phytochemicals like enzymes, minerals,
vitamins, alkaloids, phenolic compounds, steroids, saponins, glycosides, carbohydrates, coumarins,
lecithin, and essential oils that are all active cosmetic ingredients.
This ethnobotanical survey for herbal cosmetics was carried out to document the indigenous
knowledge of Choa Arab and Kotoko ethnic group about plants used for cosmetics.
2. Materials and Methods
2.1. Description of the Study Site
The far North region of Cameroon is part of the Sudano-Zambesian Region in Africa. The climate
is semi arid, characterized by a long dry season (October to May) and a short rainy season
(June to September). Annual rainfall varies between 850 and 1100 mm per year [
18
], with an average
of 529 mm. The temperature varies from 21.7 to 35.7
◦
C, with an average of 28.4
◦
C. The hydrology
distribution is characterized by river flow in two main drainage basins associated with the river Niger
and Lake Chad. The Logone river is the major one. The surrounding vegetation corresponds to
a typical Sudano-sahelian type, comprising thorn-bush steppe and savanna dominated by Acacia
species, with variations depending upon groundwater supply. Continuous vegetative cover is largely
restricted to the margins of watercourses [
19
]. Major ethnic groups populating the far North Cameroon
include Arab-choa, Bornoa, Kotoko, Mandara from Cameroon and Kaninsou people who came from
Chad. They practice agriculture, livestock farming, and fishing.
Data were collected in Kousseri neighborhood (Figure 1), located at 12.0871◦N, 15.0148◦E.
Cosmetics 2018,5, 31 4 of 12
Cosmetics 2018, 5, x FOR PEER REVIEW 4 of 12
Figure 1. Location of study site.
2.2. Research Method
Ethnobotanical data collection was done through interviews conducted with key
knowledgeable native informants. A total of 24 key informants including 13 Kotokos and 11 Choa
arabs participated in the survey. Information regarding plants, parts used, usage, mode of
preparation and administration were documented. Plant species were identified using reference
floras of drylands areas [20]. Voucher specimens of unknown species were collected and preserved
using standard herbarium techniques, and their identification was confirmed at the National
Herbarium of Cameroon.
3. Results
3.1. Plants Used As Traditional Cosmetics
A total of 13 plants species belonging to 13 genera and 12 families has been recorded during this
study (Table 1). The plant Canarium schweinfurthii and Santalum album obtained the highest
frequency of citation.
Figure 1. Location of study site.
2.2. Research Method
Ethnobotanical data collection was done through interviews conducted with key knowledgeable
native informants. A total of 24 key informants including 13 Kotokos and 11 Choa arabs participated in
the survey. Information regarding plants, parts used, usage, mode of preparation and administration
were documented. Plant species were identified using reference floras of drylands areas [
20
]. Voucher
specimens of unknown species were collected and preserved using standard herbarium techniques,
and their identification was confirmed at the National Herbarium of Cameroon.
3. Results
3.1. Plants Used As Traditional Cosmetics
A total of 13 plants species belonging to 13 genera and 12 families has been recorded during this
study (Table 1). The plant Canarium schweinfurthii and Santalum album obtained the highest frequency
of citation.
Cosmetics 2018,5, 31 5 of 12
Table 1. Recorded list of plants used as traditional cosmetics among Arab Choa and Kotoko.
N◦Species Local Name Part Used * Usage Frequency (%)
1Canarium schweinfurthii Engl Gamari Bk, Fb, Rs
Barks, resins and flower buds are
burned as incense to perfume
the house
12.7
2Santalum album L. Sandal Bk Perfume for cloths 12.17
3Lawsonia inermis L. Hinna Lv Tattooing of hands and feet,
nail varnish 11.64
4Elaeis guineensis Jacq Hamra Fr Gumming product for skin care 10.58
5Arachis hypogae L. Foul S Gumming product for skin care 10.05
6Panicum miliaceum L. Dourra amar S Gumming product for skin care 10.05
7Zea mays L. Massara S Gumming product for skin care 10.05
8Terminalia avicennioides Guill.
& Perr Dorot Bk Perfume for clothes, Female
genital tract shrinkage 6.88
9Croton Zambesicus Müell. Arg. ChébéAcceleration of hair growth 5.82
10 Citrus limon (L.) Burm.f. Lemon Fr Used for body waxing 4.76
11 Crocus sativus L. Courcoum Rt Gives a beautiful, bright
complexion with a yellowish color
3.17
12 Syzigium aromaticum (L.) Merr.
& L.M.Perry Grounfal Fr Skin care 1.06
13 Vitellaria paradoxa C.F. Gaertn. Oum kouroum S Hair care 1.06
* Bk = bark; Fb = Flower bud; Rs = resin; Lv = leaves; Fr = fruits; S = seeds; Rt = roots.
3.2. Biological Forms and Part Used
These plant species are of three botanical forms: trees, shrubs and herbs. Trees are the most
abundant life forms accounting for 60.85% of all plants recorded, followed by herbs (33.33%),
shrubs (5.82%) (Figure 2).
Cosmetics 2018, 5, x FOR PEER REVIEW 5 of 12
Table 1. Recorded list of plants used as traditional cosmetics among Arab Choa and Kotoko.
N° Species Local Name Part Used * Usage Frequency (%)
1 Canarium schweinfurthii Engl Gamari Bk, Fb, Rs
Barks, resins and flower buds are
burned as incense to perfume the
house
12.7
2 Santalum album L. Sandal Bk Perfume for cloths 12.17
3 Lawsonia inermis L. Hinna Lv
Tattooing of hands and feet, nail
varnish 11.64
4 Elaeis
g
uineensis
J
ac
q
Hamra Fr Gumming product for skin care 10.58
5
A
rachis hypogae L. Foul S Gumming product for skin care 10.05
6 Panicum miliaceum L. Dourra amar S Gumming product for skin care 10.05
7 Zea mays L. Massara S Gumming product for skin care 10.05
8 Terminalia avicennioides Guill. & Perr Dorot Bk Perfume for clothes, Female
genital tract shrinkage 6.88
9 Croton Zambesicus Müell. Arg. Chébé Acceleration o
f
hair growth 5.82
10 Citrus limon (L.) Burm.f. Lemon Fr Used for
b
ody waxing 4.76
11 Crocus sativus L. Courcoum Rt
Gives a beautiful, bright
complexion with a yellowish
color
3.17
12 Syzigium aromaticum (L.) Merr. &
L.M.Perry Grounfal Fr Skin care 1.06
13 Vitellaria paradoxa C.F. Gaertn. Oum
kouroum S Hair care 1.06
* Bk = bark; Fb = Flower bud; Rs = resin; Lv = leaves; Fr = fruits; S = seeds; Rt = roots.
3.2. Biological Forms and Part Used
These plant species are of three botanical forms: trees, shrubs and herbs. Trees are the most
abundant life forms accounting for 60.85% of all plants recorded, followed by herbs (33.33%), shrubs
(5.82%) (Figure 2).
Figure 2. Biological forms of plants recorded.
Different parts of the plant species recorded are used as cosmetics including bark (31.2%), seeds
(30.1%), fruits (16.4%), leaves (11.6%), flower buds (6.3%) and root (3.1%). The barks and seeds were
the most frequently used plant parts (Figure 3).
60.85
5.82
33.33
Trees Shrubs Herbs
Figure 2. Biological forms of plants recorded.
Different parts of the plant species recorded are used as cosmetics including bark (31.2%),
seeds (30.1%), fruits (16.4%), leaves (11.6%), flower buds (6.3%) and root (3.1%). The barks and
seeds were the most frequently used plant parts (Figure 3).
Cosmetics 2018,5, 31 6 of 12
Cosmetics 2018, 5, x FOR PEER REVIEW 6 of 12
Figure 3. Plant parts used as cosmetics.
3.3. Cosmetic Use of the Recorded Plants
A great majority of recorded plants are used for skin care (42% of citations), perfume (27%) and
for tattooing (11% of citations). Preparations for hair care were the least frequent use of recorded
plants (Figure 4).
Figure 4. Cosmetic use of the recorded plants.
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
Bark Seeds Fruits Leaves Flower buds Roots
Frequency of citation (%)
Plant parts used
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
45
Frequency of citation (%)
Figure 3. Plant parts used as cosmetics.
3.3. Cosmetic Use of the Recorded Plants
A great majority of recorded plants are used for skin care (42% of citations), perfume (27%)
and for tattooing (11% of citations). Preparations for hair care were the least frequent use of recorded
plants (Figure 4).
Cosmetics 2018, 5, x FOR PEER REVIEW 6 of 12
Figure 3. Plant parts used as cosmetics.
3.3. Cosmetic Use of the Recorded Plants
A great majority of recorded plants are used for skin care (42% of citations), perfume (27%) and
for tattooing (11% of citations). Preparations for hair care were the least frequent use of recorded
plants (Figure 4).
Figure 4. Cosmetic use of the recorded plants.
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
Bark Seeds Fruits Leaves Flower buds Roots
Frequency of citation (%)
Plant parts used
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
45
Frequency of citation (%)
Figure 4. Cosmetic use of the recorded plants.
Cosmetics 2018,5, 31 7 of 12
3.4. Phytochemical Review
For the 13 plants recorded, their cosmetic allegations concern essentially dermatology, anti-cancers,
antioxidant agent, perfume, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, wounds healing activity, skin lightening,
dental caries, astringent and hair care (Table 2). They all contain various phytochemicals that are all of
interest in cosmetics.
Table 2. Phytochemical constituents and biological activity of recorded plants.
Species Part Used Phytochemical Constituents Properties/Activities References
Canarium
schweinfurthii
Engl
Seed Seed kernel oil extract chemoprevention of cancers and other
oxidative damage-induced diseases [21]
Resin Essential oil natural antioxidant agent [22,23]
Barks Polyphenols, triterpenes and steroids antibacterial and antifungal activities
Santalum album L.
wood Tannins, terpenes, resins and waxes Sandalwood oil useful in
perfume industry [24]
wood Essential oils Antibacterial and antifungal activity
wood A-Santalumol skin cancer preventive effect
Lawsonia
inermis L. Leaves Lawsone, flavonoids, coumarins,
triterpenoids, steroids, xanthones
anti-inflammatory, antibacterial,
antimicrobial, antifungal, antiviral,
antidermatophytic, antioxidant
[25,26]
Elaeis
guineensis Jacq
oil
Phenolic, tannin and flavonoid
compounds, vitamine E isomers
(Tocopherols and tocotrienols)
Antioxidant activity [27,28]
Alkaloids, saponins, tannins,
anthraquinones, steroids, flavonoids Antimicrobial activity
Terpenoids and alkaloids Wounds healing activity [29]
Oil Excipient in most cosmetic preparation
like the production of soaps [30]
Vitamine A Slows the desquamation of the cells of
the epidermis [26]
Arachis hypogae L.
Seeds
Resveratrol, Tannins, phlobatannins,
saponins, flavonoids, quinones,
terpenoids and cardiac glycosides
Melanolytic and skin lightening activity,
reducing cancer risks, inhibiting dental
caries, antioxidant capacity
[31–33]
Panicum
miliaceum Seeds
Carbohydrates, protein, oleic acid,
linoleic acid, stearic acid and essential
minerals like phosphorus, manganese,
calcium and magnesium and rich in
B-complex vitamins
Applied as a poultice for abscesses
and sores [34]
Zea mays
Carotenoids, Phenolic compounds,
Phytosterols, Selenium, vitamins A, C,
and K, Anthocyanins
has the potential to alleviate pain and
possess analgesic activity, antimicrobial,
and anti-inflammatory properties
[35]
Terminalia
avicennioides
Guill. & Perr
Bark
Phenols, steroids, glycosides, flavonoids,
tannins, ellagic acids, Anthraquinone,
saponins, and terpenes
antimicrobial activity, Wound Healing
Activity, Antioxidant activity,
Antibacterial activity, Antifungal Activity
[36,37]
Croton zambesicus
Müell. Arg.
Flavonoids, Saponins, Alkaloid, Tannins,
Phenols, Triterpene, sesquiterpenes,
Phytosterol, Anthraquinones and
Carbohydrates, Labdanes, Trachylobanes,
isopimaranes, Volatile Oils
antioxidant property [38]
Citrus limon (L.)
Burm.f.
Lemon peel
Astringent and good antimicrobial agent.
[39]
Phenolic compounds, sesamin, sesamol,
sesamolin, and phytosterol Antioxydant [28,40]
Crocus sativus L.
Phenolics flavonoids and Apocarotenoids,
safranal, crocin Antioxidant activity [41,42]
Crocin, crocetin, diglucosylcrocetin, and
dimethylcrocetin Anti-carcinogenic effects [43]
Syzigium
aromaticum (L.)
Merr. & L.M.Perry
oil
Monoterpenes, sesquiterpenes, phenolics
and hydrocarbon compounds, eugenol,
eugenyl acetate and β-caryophyllene
antibacterial, antifungal, insecticidal,
antioxidant, anticarcinogenic capacities [44–46]
topical analgesic in dentistry
Cosmetics 2018,5, 31 8 of 12
Table 2. Cont.
Species Part Used Phytochemical Constituents Properties/Activities References
Vitellaria paradoxa
C.F. Gaertn. Seed oil
Provitamine A, allantoine, tocopherols Antioxydant, antimicrobial, treatment of
scars, burns and erythemas,
skin lightening, dryness of the hair and
produces a good lubrication of the hair
[47]
Triglycerides phospholipides palmitic,
stearic, oleic, linoleique and
linolenic acids
4. Discussion
The 13 plant species identified in this study are well known for their various traditional
uses in the tropical and semi-arid areas of Africa. Some like Elaeis guineensis,Arachis hypogae,
Syzigium aromaticum,Citrus limon,Lawsonia inermis and Vitellaria paradoxa are very popular sources of
cosmetic ingredients [17,47,48].
The uses of the resin/Gum, oil and fruits of Canarium schweinfurthii as food and medicine is well
documented in Nigeria [49].
Terminalia avicennioides has been employed for many decades as a remedy to many diseases
afflicting humans such as dental caries, skin infections, sore and ulcer, syphilis, bloody sputum,
ringworm infection, gastrointestinal helminthes and several others [36,37].
Croton zambesicus is used in tropical west and central Africa to treat fever, dysentery and
convulsions, urinary infections and malaria-linked fever [38].
Corn (Zea mays) is one of the most commonly grown foods in the world. Besides its use as
food, Zea mays is used in therapeutics and cosmetics as analgesic, antiseptic, astringent, anti-diabetes,
and diuretic, skin protectant, anti-inflammatory and anti-arthritic. Zea mays is also used to reduce
tooth mobility, mitigate gum swelling and for its skin regenerative properties [50].
The Indian Sandalwood (Santalum album) is highly aromatic heartwood used to make artifacts
and medicine. Sandalwood is well known for its uses in Indian traditions. In temples it is burned
directly or in the form of incense sticks to worship Buddha [
51
]. In modern aromatherapy, it is used as
Antiseptic, antinflammatory, Astringent, Disinfecting, Emollient, Soothing, etc. [52].
Proso millet (Panicum miliaceum) is a good source of carbohydrates, protein, oleic acid, linoleic acid,
stearic acid; essential minerals like phosphorus, manganese, calcium and magnesium; phytochemicals
like phytate, which is associated with reducing cancer risks, along with phenolic acids and
benzoic acids [34].
In Islamic Traditional Medicine, Saffron (Crocus sativus), is reported to be used as
gastro-hepatoprotective, oxytocic, treatment of urogenital disorders, antidepressant, treatment of ocular
disorders, treatment of respiratory disorders, cardioprotective effects, anti-cancer effects, absorption
enhancing and anti-inflammatory agent [41].
Vitellaria paradoxa is an important source of fat in food and cosmetics [
53
]. Its fatty matter has
long been used in Africa for different purposes: food and soap processing, healthcare and other
medicinal uses [54].
Previous ethnobotanical studies in the Sahelian areas of West Africa reported the multipurpose
uses of many woody plant species like Piliostigma reticulatum,Azadirachta indica,Acacia albid,Balanites
aegyptiacus,Prosopis Africana,Sclerocarya birrea,Acacia nilotica,Guiera senegalensis,Hyphaene thebaica and
Combretum glutinosum [
55
–
58
]. Cameroon dry land flora is very rich in plant species which produce
natural substances, essential oils and organic and wide-ranging aromas, all of which are vital to the
food, pharmaceutical and cosmetics industries. Despite these potentials, most plant resources of this
area have been overlooked by extension services at the expense of over-promoted exotic species [13].
With the growing demand for beauty and beauty products in the country in recent years,
there is a great challenge of how Cameroon can profit from this huge demand while creating
opportunity for herbal cosmetics and aroma products. Despite the country’s rich endowment in
biological resources, there is still little investment in research and development of new phytocosmetics.
Yet, some giants of the cosmetics industries are showing increased interest in searching for new
Cosmetics 2018,5, 31 9 of 12
cosmetics ingredients from the country’s flora. This is the case for the Novella Project in Cameroon,
Ghana, Nigeria, Tanzania and Kenya, a collaborative initiative between a commercial company
(Unilever), an international Non-Governmental Organization (SNV Netherlands Development
Organization), local NGOs, local businesses, collectors, transporters and processors, aimed at
developing a sustainable supply chain for Allanblackia oil [
59
]. Echinops giganteus and Mondia
whitei are two other species concerned by such pilot initiatives. Their vanilla-odour roots are
currently sought by the French company V MANE FILS for the production of perfume, within the
framework of a pilot Access and Benefit Sharing (ABS) project implemented in collaboration with
the Ministry of Environment, Protection of Nature and Sustainable Development (ABS competent
national Authority), the Magha community in South-West Cameroon) and a local non governmental
organization Environment and Rural Development Foundation (ERuDeF) [
60
]. However, although
an important amount of plant biodiversity is concentrated in the Southern developing countries, the
technological capacities for transforming them into commercially viable products are predominantly
found in industrialized countries. Recently, there has been an emerging paradigm in most African
countries challenging the open access regime resulting in unrestricted South-North flow of plant-based
raw materials increasingly translated into Intellectual Property-protected inventions, with the resulting
economic benefits being appropriated by private Northern entities. As a result, most countries are
currently working towards ratification of the Nagoya protocol on Access to Genetic Resources and
the Fair and Equitable Sharing of Benefits Arising from their Utilization (ABS) [
61
] and developing
national tools for the implementation of this protocol. Beyond that, it will be critical for countries to
create a conducive environment to promote and encourage research related to conservation and
wise use of plant biodiversity and to use the research-development continuum as a model for
sustainable development.
5. Conclusions
In the Far North Region of Cameroon, there is a strong relationship between the Arab Choa and
Kotoko people and plant resources. They have good knowledge of utilization of plants for cosmetic
purposes. A total of 13 plant species have been reported in this study and their chemical evaluation
based on available literature indicated they can be promising resources for cosmetic industry. Trees are
the most frequent life forms of plants used as cosmetics; the barks and seeds are the most frequently
used plant parts and skin care was the most frequent use of plants recorded.
This knowledge is however only transmitted orally and therefore, likely to be lost because of
interference of modern and foreign cultural influence. Therefore, efforts are needed to understand
and adequately document the indigenous knowledge about the use of herbal cosmetics. Despite their
extensive traditional use in the study area and across semi-arid areas of tropical Africa, these plants
have been investigated less for their cosmetic application. This study is an early investigation focusing
on cosmetic utilization of local plants and there is further need of detailed and intensive investigations
with particular reference to herbal cosmetics in the Far North Region of Cameroon. Indeed, traditional
uses of plants are as real resources of innovation and economic development and it is therefore
interesting for Cameroon to be familiar with their value and use. In addition, for a better valorization
of local cosmetic plants, phytochemical and specific bioassay studies should be performed on promising
species. For sustainable and long term conservation and promotion of plant resources of the area,
there is a need to actively involve the local communities, planning, implementation and monitoring
process following principles of Nagoya protocol on access to genetic resources and sharing of benefits
derived from their utilization.
Author Contributions:
E.F.F. and T.Z. conceived the experimental design of this study; E.F.F., T.Z. and S.B.
performed the data collection; E.F.F. prepared the first draft of this paper; C.F.N.B. and A.N.B. adjusted the
experiments and reviewed the first draft of the manuscript; N.T. revised the first draft of this manuscript.
Cosmetics 2018,5, 31 10 of 12
Acknowledgments:
The authors did not receive any funds for covering the costs to conduct this research or
to publish in open access. We wish to express their gratitude to all the people of Kousseri locality for their
cooperation and assistance.
Conflicts of Interest: The authors declare no conflict of interest.
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