Eco-Friendly Finishes for Textile Fabrics

Abstract

Most often, high-quality textiles with functional properties require further treatment of their surface to cater for global market requirements.

Full text

www.emcei.net
ISSN: XXXX-XXXX
1st Euro-Mediterranean Conference for Environmental Integration (EMCEI)
Eco-friendly finishes for textile fabrics
Imene Belhaj Khalifa1,2, Neji Ladhari 2,3
1National Engineering School, Textile Engineering Department, Monastir, Tunisia ( Imene.bhk@gmail.com)
2Textile engineering laboratory, University of Monastir, Iset of Ksar hellal, Tunisia
3Higher Institut of Fashion Crafts of Monastir, Monastir 5000, Tunisia
Highlights: The aim of this paper is to modify the properties of the textile surface using a green process. The fabric surface was
pre-activated with plasma technology. Subsequently, a bio-polymer was applied on the pre-activated surface. This green process
allowed the improvement of the wettability of the fabric.The properties obtained make the fabric suitable for medical textiles.
Keywords: Textile fabric; Green process; Plasma technology; Bio-polymer; Surface properties.
1. Introduction
Generally, high-quality textiles with functional properties require further treatment of their surface to cater for
global market requirements. Mostly, conventional wet surface treatment processes require high energy
consumption, large amounts of water, often toxic chemicals, as well as the production of liquid and gaseous
effluents; which require expensive purification treatments. Environmental and energy saving concerns guide
researchers and industrialists to replace chemical treatment processes with new greener technologies, more
efficient and less costly. Plasma technology seems to meet all these requirements. This physical technology
consists of using reactive plasma particles (ions, electrons, excited atoms and photons) to break covalent bonds by
the collision phenomenon (Faushais et al., 1977) and create subsequently free radicals and functional groups on
the treated surface. Consequently, plasma treatment allows the achievement of certain desired properties such as
wettability (Abd Jelil et al, 2013) and promotes further graft polymerization (Gupta et al., 2010).
Therefore, plasma treatment has been used in our study to promote the grafting of Silk Sericin on the textile
surface. In fact, Silk Sericin is a natural protein derived from silkworm Bombyx mori. It is mostly discarded in silk
processing wastewater (Khalifa et al., 2012). Silk Sericin is very useful because of its unique properties like
moisture absorption ability, antibiotic and antibacterial activities, biocompatibility, biodegradability, UV and
oxidative resistance.
2. Material and Methods
Materials: A 100% polyester woven fabric was used for the study. Sericin powder, with a molecular weight of 20,
was purchased. Petrol Ether, Ethanol, Acetic Acid.
Activation of textile surface with plasma technology: The treatment was done in GEMTEX Laboratory using an
atmospheric plasma machine. The machine parameters were velocity, electrical power, frequency, electrode
length and inter-electrode distance.
Application of a bio-polymer on the pre-activated surface: Plasma treated and untreated cleaned fabric samples
were padded in a solution containing Sericin and acetic acid. Then, samples were squeezed with a padder and
dried.
Characterization of the textile surface: The treatment was evaluated by means of:
- Wettability in terms of water contact angle (°) and capillarity (%) measurements. The test was carried out
with tensiometer “3S Balance” from GBX instruments according to the Wilhelmy principle method.
- Surface zeta potential measured by streaming potential measurement using a Zetacad equipment at 25°C.
A 0.001 mol/L of KCl electrolyte solution was used.
- Surface morphology investigated by a scanning electron microscopy (SEM).
www.emcei.net
ISSN: XXXX-XXXX
1st Euro-Mediterranean Conference for Environmental Integration (EMCEI)
Eco-friendly finishes for textile fabrics
Imene Belhaj Khalifa1,2, Neji Ladhari 2,3
1National Engineering School, Textile Engineering Department, Monastir, Tunisia ( Imene.bhk@gmail.com)
2Textile engineering laboratory, University of Monastir, Iset of Ksar hellal, Tunisia
3Higher Institut of Fashion Crafts of Monastir, Monastir 5000, Tunisia
Highlights: The aim of this paper is to modify the properties of the textile surface using a green process. The fabric surface was
pre-activated with plasma technology. Subsequently, a bio-polymer was applied on the pre-activated surface. This green process
allowed the improvement of the wettability of the fabric.The properties obtained make the fabric suitable for medical textiles.
Keywords: Textile fabric; Green process; Plasma technology; Bio-polymer; Surface properties.
1. Introduction
Generally, high-quality textiles with functional properties require further treatment of their surface to cater for
global market requirements. Mostly, conventional wet surface treatment processes require high energy
consumption, large amounts of water, often toxic chemicals, as well as the production of liquid and gaseous
effluents; which require expensive purification treatments. Environmental and energy saving concerns guide
researchers and industrialists to replace chemical treatment processes with new greener technologies, more
efficient and less costly. Plasma technology seems to meet all these requirements. This physical technology
consists of using reactive plasma particles (ions, electrons, excited atoms and photons) to break covalent bonds by
the collision phenomenon (Faushais et al., 1977) and create subsequently free radicals and functional groups on
the treated surface. Consequently, plasma treatment allows the achievement of certain desired properties such as
wettability (Abd Jelil et al, 2013) and promotes further graft polymerization (Gupta et al., 2010).
Therefore, plasma treatment has been used in our study to promote the grafting of Silk Sericin on the textile
surface. In fact, Silk Sericin is a natural protein derived from silkworm Bombyx mori. It is mostly discarded in silk
processing wastewater (Khalifa et al., 2012). Silk Sericin is very useful because of its unique properties like
moisture absorption ability, antibiotic and antibacterial activities, biocompatibility, biodegradability, UV and
oxidative resistance.
2. Material and Methods
Materials: A 100% polyester woven fabric was used for the study. Sericin powder, with a molecular weight of 20,
was purchased. Petrol Ether, Ethanol, Acetic Acid.
Activation of textile surface with plasma technology: The treatment was done in GEMTEX Laboratory using an
atmospheric plasma machine. The machine parameters were velocity, electrical power, frequency, electrode
length and inter-electrode distance.
Application of a bio-polymer on the pre-activated surface: Plasma treated and untreated cleaned fabric samples
were padded in a solution containing Sericin and acetic acid. Then, samples were squeezed with a padder and
dried.
Characterization of the textile surface: The treatment was evaluated by means of:
- Wettability in terms of water contact angle (°) and capillarity (%) measurements. The test was carried out
with tensiometer “3S Balance” from GBX instruments according to the Wilhelmy principle method.
- Surface zeta potential measured by streaming potential measurement using a Zetacad equipment at 25°C.
A 0.001 mol/L of KCl electrolyte solution was used.
- Surface morphology investigated by a scanning electron microscopy (SEM).
www.emcei.net
ISSN: XXXX-XXXX
1st Euro-Mediterranean Conference for Environmental Integration (EMCEI)
Eco-friendly finishes for textile fabrics
Imene Belhaj Khalifa1,2, Neji Ladhari 2,3
1National Engineering School, Textile Engineering Department, Monastir, Tunisia ( Imene.bhk@gmail.com)
2Textile engineering laboratory, University of Monastir, Iset of Ksar hellal, Tunisia
3Higher Institut of Fashion Crafts of Monastir, Monastir 5000, Tunisia
Highlights: The aim of this paper is to modify the properties of the textile surface using a green process. The fabric surface was
pre-activated with plasma technology. Subsequently, a bio-polymer was applied on the pre-activated surface. This green process
allowed the improvement of the wettability of the fabric.The properties obtained make the fabric suitable for medical textiles.
Keywords: Textile fabric; Green process; Plasma technology; Bio-polymer; Surface properties.
1. Introduction
Generally, high-quality textiles with functional properties require further treatment of their surface to cater for
global market requirements. Mostly, conventional wet surface treatment processes require high energy
consumption, large amounts of water, often toxic chemicals, as well as the production of liquid and gaseous
effluents; which require expensive purification treatments. Environmental and energy saving concerns guide
researchers and industrialists to replace chemical treatment processes with new greener technologies, more
efficient and less costly. Plasma technology seems to meet all these requirements. This physical technology
consists of using reactive plasma particles (ions, electrons, excited atoms and photons) to break covalent bonds by
the collision phenomenon (Faushais et al., 1977) and create subsequently free radicals and functional groups on
the treated surface. Consequently, plasma treatment allows the achievement of certain desired properties such as
wettability (Abd Jelil et al, 2013) and promotes further graft polymerization (Gupta et al., 2010).
Therefore, plasma treatment has been used in our study to promote the grafting of Silk Sericin on the textile
surface. In fact, Silk Sericin is a natural protein derived from silkworm Bombyx mori. It is mostly discarded in silk
processing wastewater (Khalifa et al., 2012). Silk Sericin is very useful because of its unique properties like
moisture absorption ability, antibiotic and antibacterial activities, biocompatibility, biodegradability, UV and
oxidative resistance.
2. Material and Methods
Materials: A 100% polyester woven fabric was used for the study. Sericin powder, with a molecular weight of 20,
was purchased. Petrol Ether, Ethanol, Acetic Acid.
Activation of textile surface with plasma technology: The treatment was done in GEMTEX Laboratory using an
atmospheric plasma machine. The machine parameters were velocity, electrical power, frequency, electrode
length and inter-electrode distance.
Application of a bio-polymer on the pre-activated surface: Plasma treated and untreated cleaned fabric samples
were padded in a solution containing Sericin and acetic acid. Then, samples were squeezed with a padder and
dried.
Characterization of the textile surface: The treatment was evaluated by means of:
- Wettability in terms of water contact angle (°) and capillarity (%) measurements. The test was carried out
with tensiometer “3S Balance” from GBX instruments according to the Wilhelmy principle method.
- Surface zeta potential measured by streaming potential measurement using a Zetacad equipment at 25°C.
A 0.001 mol/L of KCl electrolyte solution was used.
- Surface morphology investigated by a scanning electron microscopy (SEM).

Imene Belhaj Khalifa/ Proceedings of EMCEI-2017
3. Results and Discussion
The surface functionalization techniques create in particular functional groups on the textile supports which
subsequently serve as initiators in the grafting process or can simply optimize the finishing or dyeing of textile
materials. Polyester which is the most commonly used fibre for biomaterial applications is difficult to functionalize.
Despite its higher mechanical properties, it is hydrophobic and inert in nature, making direct surface treatment of
Polyester difficult to perform. Thus, industrials are led to treat these textiles with chemicals which can be not eco-
friendly.
The improvement of the Plasma treated and grafted fabric surface wettabiliy was shown by the decrease of the
water contact angle (°) and the increase of the Capillarity (%) compared to the untreated sample.
The decrease of zeta potential values of fabric treated with plasma is due to the increase of COO- groups created
on the surface of polyester. These functional groups will be used as initiators for the grafting of Sericin polymers.
For the fabrics grafted with Sericin and independently of plasma treatment, the surface charges were positive
indicating the presence of NH3
+groups which are related to the existence of Sericin on polyester surface.
Table 1. Wettability and Zeta potential measurements of fabric surface.
Samples
Contact angle (°)
Capillarity (%)
Zeta potentiel at pH 3
Untreated
81
3
-5,48
Plasma treated
38
51
-27,81
Untreated-Grafted
50
40
23,35
Plasma treated-Grafted
38
83
12,84
The SEM micrographs illustrated with Figure1 and Figure 2 shown the existence of Silk Sericin onto the polyester
surface pre-activated with plasma treatment.
Figure 1. SEM micrographs of untreated fabric Figure 2. SEM micrographs of Plasma treated and grafted
The surface properties of polyester fabrics have been greatly enhanced in terms of hydrophilicity by surface
functionalization with air atmospheric plasma treatment and with Sericin cross-linking. While plasma-treated
polyester fabrics are readily subjected to aging with time, the results of this study demonstrate that cross-linking
of Sericin on plasma-treated PET not only produces a durable hydrophilic finish but the hydrophilic properties are
further enhanced with a concentration of Sericin.
4. Conclusion
Recently, the environmental pollution have increased the interest of researchers in the discovery of new health
products for the well-being of mankind. Plasma technology seems to be a promoted process wich can replace
chemical techniques. The results of this study show that the use of plasma treatment, as a low-environnemental
impact technology, with use of sustainable bio-polymers could present a novel approach for the developpement of
new textile products.
References
1. Faushais P, Bourdin E. Plasma chemistry and its short-term opportunities. Journal of Physics 1977; C, 3:111–134.
Imene Belhaj Khalifa/ Proceedings of EMCEI-2017
3. Results and Discussion
The surface functionalization techniques create in particular functional groups on the textile supports which
subsequently serve as initiators in the grafting process or can simply optimize the finishing or dyeing of textile
materials. Polyester which is the most commonly used fibre for biomaterial applications is difficult to functionalize.
Despite its higher mechanical properties, it is hydrophobic and inert in nature, making direct surface treatment of
Polyester difficult to perform. Thus, industrials are led to treat these textiles with chemicals which can be not eco-
friendly.
The improvement of the Plasma treated and grafted fabric surface wettabiliy was shown by the decrease of the
water contact angle (°) and the increase of the Capillarity (%) compared to the untreated sample.
The decrease of zeta potential values of fabric treated with plasma is due to the increase of COO- groups created
on the surface of polyester. These functional groups will be used as initiators for the grafting of Sericin polymers.
For the fabrics grafted with Sericin and independently of plasma treatment, the surface charges were positive
indicating the presence of NH3
+groups which are related to the existence of Sericin on polyester surface.
Table 1. Wettability and Zeta potential measurements of fabric surface.
Samples
Contact angle (°)
Capillarity (%)
Zeta potentiel at pH 3
Untreated
81
3
-5,48
Plasma treated
38
51
-27,81
Untreated-Grafted
50
40
23,35
Plasma treated-Grafted
38
83
12,84
The SEM micrographs illustrated with Figure1 and Figure 2 shown the existence of Silk Sericin onto the polyester
surface pre-activated with plasma treatment.
Figure 1. SEM micrographs of untreated fabric Figure 2. SEM micrographs of Plasma treated and grafted
The surface properties of polyester fabrics have been greatly enhanced in terms of hydrophilicity by surface
functionalization with air atmospheric plasma treatment and with Sericin cross-linking. While plasma-treated
polyester fabrics are readily subjected to aging with time, the results of this study demonstrate that cross-linking
of Sericin on plasma-treated PET not only produces a durable hydrophilic finish but the hydrophilic properties are
further enhanced with a concentration of Sericin.
4. Conclusion
Recently, the environmental pollution have increased the interest of researchers in the discovery of new health
products for the well-being of mankind. Plasma technology seems to be a promoted process wich can replace
chemical techniques. The results of this study show that the use of plasma treatment, as a low-environnemental
impact technology, with use of sustainable bio-polymers could present a novel approach for the developpement of
new textile products.
References
1. Faushais P, Bourdin E. Plasma chemistry and its short-term opportunities. Journal of Physics 1977; C, 3:111–134.
Imene Belhaj Khalifa/ Proceedings of EMCEI-2017
3. Results and Discussion
The surface functionalization techniques create in particular functional groups on the textile supports which
subsequently serve as initiators in the grafting process or can simply optimize the finishing or dyeing of textile
materials. Polyester which is the most commonly used fibre for biomaterial applications is difficult to functionalize.
Despite its higher mechanical properties, it is hydrophobic and inert in nature, making direct surface treatment of
Polyester difficult to perform. Thus, industrials are led to treat these textiles with chemicals which can be not eco-
friendly.
The improvement of the Plasma treated and grafted fabric surface wettabiliy was shown by the decrease of the
water contact angle (°) and the increase of the Capillarity (%) compared to the untreated sample.
The decrease of zeta potential values of fabric treated with plasma is due to the increase of COO- groups created
on the surface of polyester. These functional groups will be used as initiators for the grafting of Sericin polymers.
For the fabrics grafted with Sericin and independently of plasma treatment, the surface charges were positive
indicating the presence of NH3
+groups which are related to the existence of Sericin on polyester surface.
Table 1. Wettability and Zeta potential measurements of fabric surface.
Samples
Contact angle (°)
Capillarity (%)
Zeta potentiel at pH 3
Untreated
81
3
-5,48
Plasma treated
38
51
-27,81
Untreated-Grafted
50
40
23,35
Plasma treated-Grafted
38
83
12,84
The SEM micrographs illustrated with Figure1 and Figure 2 shown the existence of Silk Sericin onto the polyester
surface pre-activated with plasma treatment.
Figure 1. SEM micrographs of untreated fabric Figure 2. SEM micrographs of Plasma treated and grafted
The surface properties of polyester fabrics have been greatly enhanced in terms of hydrophilicity by surface
functionalization with air atmospheric plasma treatment and with Sericin cross-linking. While plasma-treated
polyester fabrics are readily subjected to aging with time, the results of this study demonstrate that cross-linking
of Sericin on plasma-treated PET not only produces a durable hydrophilic finish but the hydrophilic properties are
further enhanced with a concentration of Sericin.
4. Conclusion
Recently, the environmental pollution have increased the interest of researchers in the discovery of new health
products for the well-being of mankind. Plasma technology seems to be a promoted process wich can replace
chemical techniques. The results of this study show that the use of plasma treatment, as a low-environnemental
impact technology, with use of sustainable bio-polymers could present a novel approach for the developpement of
new textile products.
References
1. Faushais P, Bourdin E. Plasma chemistry and its short-term opportunities. Journal of Physics 1977; C, 3:111–134.

Imene Belhaj Khalifa/ Proceedings of EMCEI-2017
2. Abd Jelil R, Zeng X, Koehl L, Perwuelz A. Prediction of plasma surface modification of woven fabrics using neural networks.
International Journal of Applied Research on Textile 2013; 1: 31–40.
3. Gupta B, Srivastava A, Grover N, Saxena S. Plasma induced graft polymerization of acrylic acid onto poly(ethylene
terephtalate) monofilament. Indian Journal of Fiber & Textile Research 2010; 35: 9–14.
4. Khalifa I, Ladhari N, Touay M. Application of sericin to modify textile supports. The Journal of The Textile Institute 2012; 103:
370–377.
5. Belhaj Khalifa I, Ladhari N, Nemeshwaree B, Campagne C. Crosslinking of Sericin on air atmospheric plasma treated
polyester fabric. The Journal of The Textile Institute 2017; 108: 840-845.