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Review Article
Clinical and Medical Investigations
Clin Med Invest, 2017 doi: 10.15761/CMI.1000143 Volume 2(4): 1-16
ISSN: 2398-5763
“A thing of beauty is a joy forever”. Plants and plant-based
preparations for facial care in Suriname
Dennis RA Mans1* and Angela Grant2
1Department of Pharmacology, Faculty of Medical Sciences, Anton de Kom University of Suriname, Paramaribo, Suriname
2National Herbarium of Suriname, Anton de Kom University of Suriname, Paramaribo, Suriname
Abstract
People have probably used plant-based substances to improve their appearance since the existence of mankind. e rst documented use of cosmetics dates back
to 3,000 BC from ancient Egypt, but it is safe to say that this custom has been (and still is) an integral part of daily life in all civilizations. e initial use of plant-
derived makeup - sometimes supplemented with paints and dyes - has come full circle and is back with the contemporary trend of using beauty products that are
mainly derived from plant sources. e Republic of Suriname (South America) is renowned for its extensive ethnopharmacological knowledge and unique plant
biodiversity that provides ample raw material that can be processed into cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. is paper gives some historical highlights on the use of
makeup throughout the world with the emphasis on naturally-derived products; focuses on the herbal cosmetics industry in Suriname; extensively addresses the
scientic rationale for incorporating extracts from plants in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals in the country; and concludes with the conditions to establish a beauty
products industry in Suriname.
Correspondence to: Dennis R.A. Mans, Department of Pharmacology, Faculty
of Medical Sciences, Anton de Kom University of Suriname. Kernkampweg 5-7,
Paramaribo, Suriname. Tel/Fax: +597 441071. E-mail: dennis_mans@yahoo.com
Key words: Suriname, plant-derived products, cosmetics, cosmeceuticals, facial
care, scientic rationale
Received: July 17, 2017; Accepted: August 22, 2017; Published: August 25, 2017
Introduction
Since times immemorial humans from all civilizations have used
substances from a myriad of sources to increase their beauty, maintain a
youthful appearance, heighten their sensuality, and, generally, preserve
their health and hygiene [1,2]. Products that are used for these purposes
are nowadays commonly known as cosmetics and cosmeceuticals.
ey are intended for ‘the art of beautifying’, the Latinized expression
of the ancient Greek practices of ‘kosmetike’ and ‘kosmetikos’ meaning
‘the art of dress and ornament’ and ‘skilled in ordering or arranging’,
respectively.
Cosmetics are articles for cleansing, beautifying, promoting
the attractiveness, or positively altering the appearance of the body
[1,2]. ese products generally do not contain pharmacologically
active ingredients, at least, not at the scientically proven levels or
in a delivery system to benet the skin [1,2]. ey are, furthermore,
relatively safe, sold over the counter, and widely available from,
among others, supermarkets, drug stores, salons, and on-line retailers.
Typical cosmetics are lipsticks, eye shadows, moisturizers, toothpastes,
regular shampoos and conditioners, hair dyes, ngernail polishes, and
deodorants [1,2].
Cosmeceuticals - also called cosmedics or cosmedicals - are skin
care products with bioactive ingredients with medicinal or drug-like
benets in addition to cosmetic features [1,2]. ey contain active
ingredients at scientically proven levels that positively aect the
skin and are in a delivery system that ensures penetration of the skin
by the active ingredients [1,2]. ese products can elicit structural
changes in the skin and benecial eects in skin conditions such as
acne, hyperpigmentation, and ageing [1,2]. However, cosmeceuticals
are not considered pharmaceutical products, do not require a medical
prescription to dispense, and can regularly be used on the skin without
risking major side-eects [1,2]. Examples of cosmeceuticals are natural
and synthetic derivatives of vitamin A, antioxidants, anti-dandru
shampoos containing an anti-fungal compound, sunscreens with
proven sun protection factor, toothpastes supplemented with uoride,
and deodorants that contain antiperspirants [1,2].
Background
e ancient times
e discovery of red ochre including crayons from the African
Middle Stone Age over 100,000 years ago [3] dates the application
of cosmetic body art to the emergence of Homo sapiens in Africa
[4]. Additional evidence for the early use of cosmetics comes for
archeological nds demonstrating that already around 10,000 BC
men and women in ancient Egypt used scented oils and ointments to
clean and soen their skin and mask their body odor [5]. From about
3,000 BC on, the use of beauty products and makeup became more
widespread in Egypt [6] and expanded to large parts of Africa and Asia [7].
Both men and women applied kohl as eyeliner and eyeshadow
which also shielded the eyes from the hot sun and the dry winds [6,7]
(Figure 1). People also protected their skin with balms and creams
prepared from Castor oil; wore lipsticks containing extracts from red
algae, sometimes enriched with a pearlescent substance from sh scales
to obtain an iridescent eect; fought wrinkles with the aromatic resin
frankincense from trees of the genus Boswellia (Burseraceae) and fresh
Moringa olifeira Lam. (Moringaceae); treated baldness and greying hair
with a mixture of beeswax and resin; and chewed on licorice sticks from
Mans DRA (2017) “A thing of beauty is a joy forever”. Plants and plant-based preparations for facial care in Suriname
Volume 2(4): 2-16
Clin Med Invest, 2017 doi: 10.15761/CMI.1000143
the roots of Glycyrrhiza glabra L. (Fabaceae) to improve their breath
[5]. Important basic ingredients of most perfumes used in ancient
(Egyptian) religious rituals were myrrh, thyme, marjoram, chamomile,
lavender, lily, peppermint, rosemary, cedar, rose, aloe, olive oil, sesame
oil, and almond oil [6,7].
Ancient Rome
e tradition of using makeup and beauty products carried on to
ancient Rome, where around 100 AD it was incorporated into fashion
and religion and became a vital part of everyday life [8]. Slaves bathed
the aristocracy in perfume and Roman women daily used perfumes,
body oils, skin creams, eye shadows, eye liners, powders, nail products,
and teeth-whitening products. ey also applied beauty masks to
lighten their face as a sign of purity, while Roman men dyed their hair
blond. Notably, a woman’s social status, wealth, and attractiveness was
determined by the makeup she wore and the clothes she was adorned
in. In an eort to control lavish and self-indulgent expenditures on
luxury and extravagance, the Lex Oppia was established in 215 BC
which, among others, restricted the amount of beauty products and
luxury services women could purchase and wear [9]. is law was
revoked six years later, but the Ancient Romans took cosmetics to new
heights and limits which may explain why Italy, specically Milan, is
one of the largest beauty empires of the world to this day.
e Middle Ages and the Renaissance
Cosmetics found their way to Europe during the Middle Ages
and the Renaissance between 1,200 and 1,600 AD, aer they were
brought in from the Middle East in the wake of the Crusades [10].
Wearing makeup was then considered sinful and immoral and was
heavily discouraged by church leaders but, nevertheless, grew in
popularity. Particularly skin-whitening became fashionable among
the aristocracy, as a paler skin complexion was associated with more
leisure time to spend indoors and thus a higher social status [11]. is
practice lasted until the twentieth century and made use of a broad
variety of procedures ranging from the application of egg white and
white powder on the face to self-bleeding and the use of deadly toxic
substances such as white lead paint and arsenic [11]. One of the most
revered users of white lead was Queen Elizabeth I of England (1533 -
1603) who created ‘the Mask of Youth’ [10,11] (Figure 2). Blonde hair
also rose in popularity as it was considered angelic, and was achieved
by applying black sulphur, alum, and honey on the hair and having the
mixture react with the hair in the sun [11].
e nineteenth century
e use of makeup experienced a decline in Europe in the
nineteenth century, particularly aer Queen Victoria from England
(1819 - 1901) publicly declared it improper and vulgar and only
acceptable for actresses and prostitutes [12]. ‘Respectable’ women wore
in general as little makeup as possible which was, moreover, applied
as discrete as possible. However, facial whitening was still practiced
but was accomplished with zinc oxide powder instead of the deadly
mixtures of lead and copper [12]. e use of cosmetics resurfaced at
the end of the nineteenth century, but full makeup was still regarded
as sinful and beauty products were usually home-made articles with
natural tones.
e early twentieth century
Around 1910, makeup became increasingly more fashionable in
Europe (as well as the USA) due to the inuence of ballet and theatre
stars. Colored makeup was introduced in Paris upon the arrival of the
Russian Ballet in 1910 that typically used ocher and crimson shades.
e start of the movie industry in Hollywood in the 1920s had a
profound inuence on cosmetics [13]. Movie stars such as eda
Bara - one of the most popular actresses of the silent movie era and
one of cinema’s earliest sex symbols - and her makeup artist Helena
Rubinstein can be considered pioneers of the cosmetics industry [13].
Many other well-known manufacturers of beauty products such as Max
Factor, Sr., Elizabeth Arden, Coco Chanel, and L’Oréal had their start
in that period. eir products were in high demand and instilled self-
awareness in American women of the 1920s. is led, among others,
to the Flapper style which was characterized by daring dark eyes, red
lipstick, and red nail polish, as well as a suntan [14] (Figure 3). Other
accomplishments from that period are the eyebrow pencil, mascaras,
synthetic hair dyes and nail polishes, as well as sunscreens.
Between 1939 and 1945 during the Second World War, cosmetics
were in short supply throughout the entire world. is was for an
important part attributable to the fact that petroleum and alcohol, basic
ingredients of many beauty products, were desperately needed for the
fabrication of fuels to ght the war. However, the post-war period led
to a massive boom of the above-mentioned established corporations,
but also to opportunities for newcomers such as Pond’s who operated
in the lower price range [15].
Figure 1. The British-American actress Elizabeth Taylor made up as the Egyptian queen
Cleopatra (69 - 30 BC) in the 1963-movie ‘Cleopatra’ (from https://goo.gl/images/x2IZx8).
Figure 2. Queen Elizabeth I of England (1533 - 1603) wearing her ‘mask of youth’ (from
https://goo.gl/images/prQZBY).
Mans DRA (2017) “A thing of beauty is a joy forever”. Plants and plant-based preparations for facial care in Suriname
Volume 2(4): 3-16
Clin Med Invest, 2017 doi: 10.15761/CMI.1000143
e late twentieth century
e feminism movement of the 1960s and 1970s led many women
in the western world to abandon the use of beauty products as this
would degrade women to sex objects [16]. One of the results of this
trend was the development of more ‘natural-looking’ products in the
1970s. At the same time, non-allergic cosmetics and makeup with
greater staying power in wear appeared, as well as new lipstick colors
such as lilac, green, and silver rather than only the dierent shades of
pink and red [16]. Also, an increasing number of males began to use
cosmetics to enhance their facial features [17]. e concealer or color
corrector developed to mask dark circles, age spots, large pores, and
other small blemishes on the skin, became one of the most popular
‘male cosmetics’ [17].
e twenty-rst century
e worldwide cosmetics and cosmeceuticals industry is currently
among the largest in the world and had an estimated market price of
over U$ 200 billion in the year 2015 [18]. is value represented a
growth of 4% when compared to the year before [18], which may be
attributable to increases in global economies, changing lifestyles, and
rising demands of skin and sun care products, as well as the exploitation
of a new, protable niche, naturally-derived beauty products. e
leading markets are Asia and the Pacic region with a share of 36.9%,
followed by North America and Western Europe with proportions
of 24.8 and 19.3%, respectively [18]. Latin America, Eastern Europe,
and Africa and the Middle East hold shares of 10.2, 6.0, and 2.9%,
respectively [18]. e main players in 2015 were the L’Oréal Group
(U$ 28.02 billion), Unilever (U$ 20.47 billion), the Procter & Gamble
Company (U$ 17.60 billion), Estée Lauder Companies, Inc. (U$ 11.10
billion), and Shiseido Company, Ltd. (U$ 7.11 billion) [18]. Skin care
products accounted for 36.3% of global sales, hair care products for
22.9%, makeup for 18.2%, fragrances for 12.0%, and hygiene products
for 10.5% [18]. ese products were most frequently purchased from
general department stores, supermarkets, drug stores, and brand
outlets, and more recently, also on-line stores [18].
Back to the future
An important development in the modern cosmetics and
cosmeceuticals industry is the returning trend of using herbal
ingredients in cosmetic and cosmeceutical products [19]. As mentioned
above and extensively reviewed by others [6,20,21], the use of herbal
beauty products is centuries old and represents the basis of the modern
cosmetics and cosmeceuticals industry. Extracts from parts of aromatic
and medicinal plants have been incorporated in perfumes and beauty
products since ancient times [6,20,21]. And since the revived interest in
makeup from the early 1900s on, the signicance of naturally-derived
substances to the cosmetic and cosmeceutical industry has dramatically
increased [13,20]. is trend accommodates the increasing demand for
natural or organic products by customers throughout the entire world,
as the use of botanical products is believed to carry a lesser risk of
undesirable eects [22] and may help preserve the environment from
the detrimental eects of chemical waste products [22,23].
Background on Suriname
Geography, economy, and people
e Republic of Suriname has a surface area of approximately
165,000 km2, is located on the north-east coast of South America and
borders the Atlantic Ocean, and is situated adjacent to French Guiana,
Guyana, and Brazil (Figure 4). Roughly 80% of the population of about
570,000 lives in the urban-coastal area comprising the capital city of
Paramaribo and the Wanica district located in the narrow low-land
coastal zone in the northern part of the country (Figure 4) [24]. e
rural-coastal area of Suriname includes the districts of Marowijne,
Commewijne, Saramacca, Coronie, and Nickerie (Figure 4), and is,
together with the southern-rural interior consisting of the districts of
Para, Brokopondo, and Sipaliwini (Figure 4), home to the remaining
20% of Suriname’s inhabitants [24].
e latter part of the country (the hinterland) comprises more than
three-quarters of Suriname’s land surface, consists largely of sparsely
inhabited savanna and dense, pristine tropical rain forest, contains
high-quality fresh water and clean air, and harbors many endemic
animal and plant species [25]. Suriname’s very high biodiversity,
notoriously fertile soils, and high mineral density sustain its most
important means of subsistence, namely ecotourism, agriculture,
Figure 3. Characteristic 1920s Flapper style (from https://goo.gl/images/DbKy3d).
Figure 4. Map of the Republic of Suriname depicting the ten administrative districts as well
as the location of the country in South America (insert).
Mans DRA (2017) “A thing of beauty is a joy forever”. Plants and plant-based preparations for facial care in Suriname
Volume 2(4): 4-16
Clin Med Invest, 2017 doi: 10.15761/CMI.1000143
sheries, forestry, crude oil drilling, as well as gold and bauxite mining
[26]. ese activities contributed substantially to the country’s gross
domestic income in 2015 of U$ 5.15 billion and the average per capita
income in that year of U$ 9,360 [26,27]. is positions Suriname on the
World Bank’s list of upper middle income economies [27].
Suriname is one of the smallest countries of South America.
Nevertheless, it is renowned for its ethnic diversity comprising
indigenous Amerindians; descendants from enslaved Africans brought
in between the sixteenth and the nineteenth century called Creoles and
Maroons; descendants from indentured laborers from China, India,
and Indonesia who arrived between the second half of the nineteenth
century and the rst half of the twentieth century; descendants from
various European countries; and more recently, immigrants from Latin
American and Caribbean counties such as Brazil, Guyana, French
Guiana, and Haiti [28]. All these ethnic groups have largely preserved
their own specic identity including their ethnopharmacological
practices [29]. is may result in an unique blend of traditional
medicinal systems and an entirely novel form of complementary and
alternative medicine [29].
Traditional medicine in Suriname
Despite the availability of aordable primary and secondary health
care in both Suriname’s coastal area and hinterland [30], the use of
traditional medicines is deeply rooted in all ethnic groups and in all
parts of Suriname. For instance, the centuries-old medicinal traditions
of the indigenous Amerindians involve the use of more than three
hundred plant species for treating approximately seventy-ve distinct
disease conditions and are still very much alive [31]. Importantly,
many Amerindian disease descriptions closely correspond with
those in Western allopathic medicine, and the treatments are oen
successful [31]. An example is the indigenous use of the dried leaves of
the bitter melon Momordica charantia L. (Cucurbitacea) (Figure 5) for
treating the symptoms of diabetes mellitus, which is supported by the
hypoglycemic eects of M. charantia preparations in various animal
models [32].
Many traditional medicinal practices of Afro-Surinamese
can directly be traced back to the ancient African belief that both
physiological and psychological conditions result from an imbalance
between ‘hot’ and ‘cold’ and can be reversed by removing the ‘cold’ [33].
Accordingly, Surinamese Creoles and Maroons may ‘remove colds’ and
promote general health using kwasibita (‘Kwasi’s bitter’), an alcoholic
extract of the bitterwood of Quassia amara L. (Simaroubaceae) [34].
is preparation was discovered around 1730 by the freedman Quassie
van Timotibo (also known as Kwasi) who had successfully used it for
treating malaria fevers and stomach troubles [35].
Examples of the dozens of medicinal plants introduced in Suriname
by the Hindustani and the Javanese - the descendants from indentured
laborers from India and Java (Indonesia), respectively - are the neem
plant Azadirachta indica A. Juss. (Meliaceae) and the laos Alpinia
galanga (L.) Willd. (Zingiberaceae), respectively. e bitter-tasting
A. indica leaves are believed to boost the immune system and to treat,
among others, colds, fevers, respiratory conditions, and chicken pox
[36,37]. ese applications may nd their rationale in the anthelmintic,
antifungal, antibacterial, and antiviral activities of nimbinin, one of
the main bioactive compounds of A. indica [38]. e rhizomes of A.
galanga are extensively used for treating the fungal skin infection ‘lota’
(pityriasis alba), as well as stomach cramps and dysentery [39]. is
may be attributed to the potent antiparasitic properties of galangin, one
of the bioactiove constituents of this plant [40]. ese applications have
their origin in Indian Ayurveda and Indonesian Jamu, respectively.
An important medicinal plant introduced in Suriname by Chinese
indentured laborers is the Mongolian milkvetch or huáng qí Astragalus
propinquus Schischkin (Fabaceae). is plant is one of the y
fundamental herbs of traditional Chinese medicine, and the rhizomes
have since long been used in traditional Chinese medicinal systems
[41]. Huáng qí preparations would strengthen the vital energy Qi
and are commonly used for general health and well-being, to increase
stamina and endurance, to stimulate the immune system, to prevent
colds and upper respiratory infections, and to lower blood pressure and
blood sugar levels [42,43].
Herbal cosmetics and cosmeceuticals in Suriname
Literature data on plant-derived cosmetics and cosmeceuticals
e examples mentioned in the preceding paragraph illustrate the
rich and diverse traditional medicinal systems in Suriname and the
wide variety of plants that are employed for medicinal purposes in the
country. e use of these plants by Creoles and Maroons, Hindustani,
and Javanese has comprehensively been addressed by van Andel and
Ruysschaert [44] and van ‘t Klooster [45], Raghoenandan [46], and
Tjong Ayong [39], respectively. Together, these publications have
compiled 789 Surinamese medicinal plants, seventy-two of which
(roughly 10%) are used for cosmetic and cosmeceutical purposes.
e latter plants are given in Table 1, which further shows that
the majority of them (y-eight or more than three-quarters) is used
as cosmeceuticals, i.e., for treating pimples, warts, scars, and pigment
spots; aky skin; skin irritation such as rash, dermatitis, and eczema;
local skin lesions such as boils and pustules; as well skin fungi and skin
parasites. is is understandable when considering that these plants
are mainly mentioned in publications dealing with plants having
medicinal properties. ese ’cosmeceutical’ plants belong to more than
twenty-ve dierent plant families, which indicates the usefulness of
Surinamse medicinal plants for treating (facial) skin problems. e
remaining fourteen of the seventy-two ‘cosmetic’ and ‘cosmeceutical’
plants (about 20%) is used for ‘genuine’ cosmetic purposes, i.e., as
makeup, for masking body odor, for skin and hair care, for skin
refreshment and rejuvenation, and in genital steam baths.
Figure 5. The bitter melon Momordica charantia L. (Cucurbitacea) (from https://goo.gl/
images/jLZSoR).
Mans DRA (2017) “A thing of beauty is a joy forever”. Plants and plant-based preparations for facial care in Suriname
Volume 2(4): 5-16
Clin Med Invest, 2017 doi: 10.15761/CMI.1000143
Scars
Aloe vera (L) Burm.f. (aloë; aloe)
Cedrela odorata L. (Spanish cedar; redi krapa)
Alpinia galanga L. (Thai ginger; laos)
Asphodelaceae
Meliaceae
Zingiberacea
Skin care
Eryngium foetidum L. (culantro; sneki wiwiri)
Cocos nucifera L. (coconut tree; kronto)
Euterpe oleracea Mart. (acai; podosiri)
Maximiliana maripa (Correa) Drude. (maripa palm;
maripa)
Morinda citrifolia L. (noni; didibri apra)
Laportea aestuans (L.) Chew. (West Indian wood
nettle; krasiwiwiri)
Apiaceae
Arecaceae
Arecaceae
Arecaceae
Rubiaceae
Urticaceae
Skin fungi
Allium sativum L. (garlic; knoook)
Lablab purpureus (L.) Sweet (hyacinth bean;
komata)
Senna alata (L.) Roxb. (candle bush; slabriki)
Senna reticulata (Willd.) HS Irwin et Barneby
(carrion crow bush; slabriki)
Amaryllidaceae
Fabaceae
Fabaceae
Fabaceae
Skin parasites Unxia camphorata L.f. (sand biters; masangobita)
Carapa guianensis Aubl. (crabwood; krapa)
Asteraceae
Meliaceae
Skin irritation
(e.g., rash,
dermatitis, and
eczema)
Eclipta prostrata (L.) L. (false daisy; luwisa wiwiri)
Mikania micrantha Kunth. (bitter vine; brokobaka)
Unxia camphorata L.f. (sand bitters; masangobita)
Crescentia cujete L. (calabash; krabasi)
Bixa orellana L. (lipstick plant; kusuwe)
Tournefortia ulei Vaupel. (West Indian soldierbush;
alamankina)
Commelina difussa Burm.f. (climbing dayower;
gadodede)
Cnidoscolus urens (L.) J.C. Arthur. (bull nettle;
krasiwiwiri)
Maprounea guianensis Aubl. (awati; dek’ ati)
Senna alata (L.) Roxb. (candle bush; slabriki)
Leonotis nepetifolia (L) R. Br. (lion’s ear; bradi bita)
Ocimum tenuiorum L. (holy basil; tulsi)
Abelmoschus moschatus Medik. (musk okra; yorka
okro)
Azadirachta indica A. Juss. (neem; nim)
Carapa guianensis Aubl. (crabwood; krapa)
Cedrela odorata L. (Spanish cedar; redi krapa)
Ficus schumacheri (Liebm.) Griseb. (bearded g;
kromanti obya)
Piper marginatum Jacq. (marigold pepper; aneysi
wiwiri)
Asteraceae
Asteraceae
Asteraceae
Bignoniaceae
Bixaceae
Boraginaceae
Commelinaceae
Euphorbiaceae
Euphorbiaceae
Fabaceae
Lamiaceae
Lamiaceae
Malvaceae
Meliaceae
Meliaceae
Meliaceae
Moraceae
Piperaceae
Skin
refreshment
Plectranthus amboinicus Lour. (thick leaf thyme;
dekminti)
Gossypium barbadense L. (sea island cotton; redi
katun)
Orchid spp. (orchid; orchidee)
Lamiaceae
Malvaceae
Orchidaceae
Skin
rejuvenation
Phtirusa stellis (G.Mey) Maguire (mistletoe; pikin
fowrudoti)
Laportea aestuans (L.) Chew. (West Indian wood
nettle; krasiwiwiri)
Loranthaceae
Urticaceae
Warts
Asclepias curassavica L. (tropical milkweed;
koningsbloempje)
Plumeria acuminata Ait. (temple tree; franchepane)
Commelina difussa Burm.f. (climbing dayower;
gadodede)
Bryophyllum pinnatum (Lam) Oken. (mother of
thousands; wonderblad)
Gossypium barbadense L. (sea island cotton; redi
katun)
Apocynaceae
Apocynaceae
Commelinaceae
Crassulaceae
Malvaceae
Condition Plant (vernacular name in English; Surinamese) Family
Body odor Psidium guajava L. (guava; guyaba) Myrtaceae
Flaky skin
Erechtites hieracifolia (L.) Riaf.ex DC. (reweed;
leta wiwiri)
Senna alata (L.) Roxb. (candle bush; slabriki)
Asteraceae
Fabaceae
Genital steam
baths
Tripogandra serrulata (Vahl.)Handlos (pink trinity;
redi gadodede) Commelinaceae
Hair care
Maximiliana maripa (Correa) Drude. (maripa palm;
maripa)
Morinda citrifolia L. (noni; didibri apra)
Bertholletia excelsa Humb. & Bonpl. (Brazilian nut;
paranoto)
Arecaceae
Rubiaceae
Lecythidaceae
Local skin
lesions
(e.g., boils and
pustules)
Mangifera indica L. (mango; manya)
Mikania micrantha Kunth (bitter vine; brokobaka)
Sphagneticola trilobata (L) Pruski (creeping daisy;
kromanti wiwiri)
Unxia camphorata L.f. (sand bitters; masangobita)
Momordica charantia L. (bitter melon; wilde
sopropo)
Senna alata (L.) Roxb. (candle bush; slabriki)
Azadirachta indica A. Juss. (neem; nim)
Cedrela odorata L. (Spanish cedar; redi krapa)
Cymbopogon citratus (Dc) Stapf. (lemon grass;
citroengras)
Citrus sp.
Cecropia sp.
Anacardiaceae
Asteraceae
Asteraceae
Asteraceae
Cucurbitaceae
Fabaceae
Meliaceae
Meliaceae
Poaceae
Rutaceae
Urticaceae
Makeup Bixa orellana L. (lipstick plant; kusuwe)
Zea mays L. (corn; karu)
Bixaceae
Poaceae
Pigment spots Sida rhombifolia L. (Cuban jute; wadiwad)
Cedrela odorata L. (Spanish cedar; redi krapa)
Malvaceae
Meliaceae
Pimples
Amaranthus sp.
Cocos nucifera L. (coconut tree; kronto)
Chromolaena odorata (L.). R. King & H. Rob (Siam
weed; isriwiwiri)
Eclipta prostrata (L.) L. (false daisy; luwisa wiwiri)
Mikania micrantha Kunth (bitter vine; brokobaka)
Rolandra fruticosa (L.) Kuntze (dos blanc; broko
pangi)
Unxia camphorata L.f. (sand bitters; masangobita)
Opuntia cochinellifera Steud. (cochineal nopal
cactus; watra mama kari)
Vismia guianensis (Aubl.) Choisy (bloodwood;
pinya wiwiri)
Cucumis sativus L. (cucumber; komkommer)
Jathropha curcas L. (purging nut; purgeernoot)
Ricinus communis L. (castor bean; krapata)
Copaifera guyanensis Desf. (copaiba; hoepelhout)
Senna alata (L.) Roxb. (candle bush; slabriki)
Tamarindus indica L. (tamarind; tamarinde)
Banara guianensis Aubl. (none; pikinfowrudoti)
Chelonanthus alatus (Aubl.) Pulle (wild tobacco;
todo tabaka)
Coutoubea ramosa Aubl. (centorel; diabita)
Malpighia glabra L. (Barbados cherry; West-
Indische kers)
Abelmoschus moschatus Medik. (musk okra; yorka
okro)
Aciotis purpurascens (Aubl.) Triana (none;
swawiwiri)
Azadirachta indica A. Juss. (neem; nim)
Cedrela odorata L. (Spanish cedar; redi krapa)
Averrhoa bilimbi L. (bilimbi; birambi)
Passiora coccinea Aubl. (passion ower; sneki
markusa)
Oryza sativa L. (rice; rijst)
Quassia amara L. (bitter wood; kwasibita)
Cestrum latifolium Lam. (bitter greens; bita wiwiri)
Solanum leucocarpon Dual. (wolf apple; bradibita)
Solanum stramoniifolium Jacq. (pea eggplant;
makadroy)
Waltheria indica L. (velvet bush; malva
soldatenthee)
Lueheopsis rosea (Ducke) Burret (tickseed; katun
udu)
Alpinia galanga L. (Thai ginger; laos)
Amaranthaceae
Arecaceae
Asteraceae
Asteraceae
Asteraceae
Asteraceae
Asteraceae
Cactaceae
Clusiaceae
Cucurbitaceae
Euphorbiaceae
Euphorbiaceae
Fabaceae
Fabaceae
Fabaceae
Salicaceae
Gentianaceae
Gentianacea
Malpighiaceae
Malvaceae
Melastomataceae
Meliaceae
Meliaceae
Oxalidaceae
Passioraceae
Poaceae
Simarubaceae
Solanaceae
Solanaceae
Solanaceae
Sterculiaceae
Tiliaceae
Zingiberacea
Table 1. Compiled literature data on plants used for cosmetic and cosmeceutical purposes
in Suriname (39,44-46).
Production of plant-derived cosmetics and cosmeceuticals
e data mentioned in the preceding paragraphs indicate that there
is ample raw plant material in Suriname that can be processed into
medicinal preparations as well as cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. As a
result, an increasing number of individuals and small and medium-sized
enterprises earn their living in the medicinal plants sector in the country
[47]. ey either cultivate and/or collect the raw materials themselves and
act as suppliers for retailers or middlemen, or are involved in the processing
and/or fabrication of semi-nished or end-products [47].
According to the Surinamese Chamber of Commerce and Industry,
there are at this moment nineteen companies in Suriname - in general,
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small business - that manufacture herbal medicines [48]. Interviews
with the managers of these companies at the Made in Suriname Fair
of 2016 indicated that four of them are involved in the production of
facial care products, namely Jomi Cosmetics, Jedally’s Cosmetics, Skin
Glanz Cosmetics, and Odany Jewa [49]. Jomi Cosmetics has specialized
in facial cosmetics and cosmeceuticals from the start (Figure 6), some
fourteen years ago, but the other companies only started relatively
recently with these activities, even though they are for some years
active on the herbal market [49]. e managers have acquired their
knowledge and skills about skin care and skin care products either
from their ancestors, or by following (accredited) courses and trainings
on cosmetic sciences, herbalism, and/or beautifying in specialized
institutions in, among others, e Netherlands and Germany [49].
eir products are distributed through a wide network of retailers in
Suriname, and in the case of Jomi Cosmetics, also in French Guiana,
Brazil, Antiqua, and e Netherlands [49].
Together, Jomi Cosmetics, Jedally’s Cosmetics, Skin Glanz
Cosmetics, and Odany Jewa manufacture a broad assortment of
cosmetics and cosmeceuticals for facial care [49]. is includes facial
cleaners, facial washes and scrubs, face masks, and several day and
night creams, as well as ointments to remove impurities in the face,
eye bags, liver spots, etc. [49]. Jomi Cosmetics oers the broadest
assortment of facial care products [49]. In all cases, information about
the raw materials used, indications, contraindications, and potential
side-eects (such as allergic skin reactions including photosensitivity
reactions) are properly indicated on the instructions for use [49].
Some of the companies also oer standard facial treatments as well
as therapies for acne, wrinkles, and ageing skin [49]. Cases of severe
infections are referred to a general physician or a dermatologist [49].
e beauty products are mostly prepared from fresh fruits, fresh
plant parts or constituents, as well as semi-nished products such as
vegetable oils and waxes from twenty-two plants (Table 2) [49]. e use
as cosmetics and/or cosmeceuticals of some of them has already been
mentioned in Table 1. e scientic rationale for using these plants is
addressed later in this paper. e raw plant materials are procured from
cultivators, collectors, and vendors on contract who mainly operate in
the districts of Para, Sipaliwini, Brokopondo, and Marowijne [49]. In
these parts of Suriname, many of the plants can easily be grown and are
relatively frequently encountered in the wild. An exception is the West
Indian wood nettle L. aestuans that is relatively rare [49].
Other important ingredients such as the oils extracted from the
coconut tree C. nucifera, the crabwood C. guianensis, and the copaiba
C. guyanensis Desf. (Fabaceae) require elaborate processing [49]. Still
others such as shea butter (a fat extracted from the seeds of the African
shea tree Vitellaria paradoxa C.F.Gaertn. (Sapotaceae)), jojoba oil (a
liquid wax from the seeds of the jojoba Simmondsia chinensis (Link)
C. K. Schneid. (Simmondsiaceae)), and grapeseed oil (the oil extracted
from grape seeds as a by-product of winemaking) are not available in
Suriname and must be imported [49].
Ingredients of plant-based cosmetics and cosmeceuticals
e most commonly used plants for manufacturing cosmetics and
cosmeceuticals in Suriname are mentioned in Table 2 and have been
dealt with in ref. 49. Fresh leaves of A. vera, A. indica, C. citratus, M.
oleifera, and/or T. indica, along with coconut oil are typically included
in facial washes. e leaves of C. citratus are also used to prepare facial
milks, as are those of P. amboinicus. e juice from the fruits of C.
nucifera, C. sativus, E. oleracea, M. citrifolia, certain orchid specis, and
extracts from the leaves of T. indica and A. indica, and the calyces of H,
sabdaria L. are used to prepare day and night creams.
e nely ground granules from E. oleracea fruits are the main
ingredients of an exfoliant to remove dead skin cells and stimulate
blood circulation, forming the basis of facial scrubs. e leaf juices of
E. prostata, S. alata, and T. indica are essential components of deep
skin cleaners. Extracts from the leaves of L. aestuans and M. oleifera are
important ingredients of formulations for treating acne, eczema, scars,
insect bites, and chapped lips. Preparations from T. serrulata leaves or
whole plant are included in hair growth-stimulating products. Notably,
many of the above-mentioned substances are also incorporated in other
skin care products, creams for skin regeneration, and anti-ageing lotions.
e oils extracted from the fruits or seeds of B. excelsa, C. nucifera,
C. guianensis, and M. maripa, and that from the trunk of C. guyanensis,
give Brazil nut oil, coconut oil, krapa oil, maripa oil, and hoepel oil,
respectively, and are locally manufactured semi-nished products.
ese substances are abundantly used for hair care and the production
of soaps, and are, together with extracts from A. indica, L. nepetifolia
and/or B. pinnatum leaves, included in eye masks as well as ointments
for treating eye bags and acne.
Examples of imported semi-nished ingredients are shea butter,
jojoba oil, and grapeseed oil. ese substances are widely used for skin-
and hair-related products such as soaps, skin moisturizers, sunscreens,
lip balms, anti-wrinkle formulations, anti-stretch mark creams, hair
conditioners, baby oils, and ointments against skin inammation [50-
52]. ey are also, together with the leaf juice from A. indica and/or P.
amboinicus, common constituents of facial masks.
Scientic rationale for using Surinamese plants as cosmetics
and cosmeceuticals
e scientic rationale for the cosmetic and cosmeceutical use of
the above-mentioned plants based on their phytochemical composition
is extensively presented in this section. e data are summarized in
Table 3.
Aloe vera (L) Burm.f.
Parts of A. vera are abundantly used in traditional medicinal
systems as a treatment for, among others, microbial infections,
Figure 6. Beauty products from Jomi Cosmetics, Suriname (from https://goo.gl/images/
dKWVjR).
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Plant species (vernacular name in English;
Surinamese) Plant family Main cosmetic /cosmeceutical use in Suriname
Aloë vera (L.) Burm.f.
(aloe; aloe) Asphodelaceae Skin care products, facial washes, day and night creams, skin regeneration and anti-ageing creams
Azadirachta indica A.Juss., 1830
(neem; nim) Meliaceae Facial washes, facial masks, eye masks, day and night creams, anti-eye bag products, anti-acne creams
Bertholletia excelsa Humb. & Bonpl.
(Brazilian nut; paranoto) Lecythidaceae Soaps, skin care products, eye masks, anti-eye bag products, anti-acne creams, hair care products
Bryophyllum pinnatum (Lam) Oken.
(mother of thousands; wonderblad) Crassulaceae Skin care products, skin regeneration products, eye masks, anti-eye bag products, anti-acne creams
Carapa guianensis Aubl.
(crabwood; krapa) Meliaceae Soaps, skin care products, skin regeneration creams, eye masks, anti-eye bag products, anti-acne creams,
anti-cellulite formulations, hair care products
Cocos nucifera L.
(coconut tree; kronto) Arecaceae
Soaps, skin care products, facial washes, facial masks, eye masks, day and night creams, skin
regeneration and anti-ageing creams, eye masks, anti-eye bag products, anti-acne creams hair care
products
Copaifera guyanensis Desf.
(copaiba; hoepelhout) Fabaceae Soaps, eye masks, anti-eye bag products, anti-acne creams, hair care products
Cucumis sativus L.
(cucumber; komkommer) Cucurbitaceae Skin care products, day and night creams, skin regeneration creams
Cymbopogon citratus (Dc) Stapf.
(lemon grass; citroengras) Poaceae Facial washes; facial milks
Eclipta prostata (L.) L.
(false daisy; luisawiwiri) Asteraceae Deep skin cleaners
Euterpe oleracea Mart.
(acai; podosiri) Arecaceae Skin care products, facial scrubs, day and night creams, skin regeneration and anti-ageing creams, hair
care products
Hibiscus sabdaria L.
(roselle; syuru) Malvaceae Skin care products, day and night creams, skin protection creams, anti-ageing creams, hair care products
Laportea aestuans (L) Chew.
(West Indian wood nettle; brandnetel) Urticaceae Skin care products, anti-acne creams, anti-eczema formulations, lip balms
Leonotis nepetifolia (L) R. Br.
(lion’s ear; bradi bita) Lamiaceae Eye masks, anti-eye bag products, anti-acne creams
Maximiliana maripa (Correa) Drude.
(maripa palm; maripa) Arecaceae Soaps, eye masks, anti-eye bag products, anti-acne creams, hair care products
Morinda citrifolia L.
(noni; didibri apra) Rubiaceae Skin care products, facial washes, day and night creams, skin regeneration and anti-ageing creams, anti-
acne creams, hair care products, deodorants
Moringa oleifera Lam.
(moringa; moringa) Moringaceae Facial washes, acne, eczema, scars, insect bites, lip balms
Orchid spp. Orchidaceae Skin care products, skin regeneration and anti-ageing creams
Plectranthus amboinicus Lour.
(thick leaf thyme; dekminti) Lamiaceae Anti-acne creams
Senna alata (L.) Roxb.
(candle bush; slabriki) Fabaceae Deep skin cleaners
Tamarindus indica L.
(tamarind; tamarinde) Fabaceae Skin care products, facial washes, face masks, day and night creams, deep skin cleaners, skin regeneration
and anti-ageing creams, lip balms, sun screens
Tripogandra serrulata (Vahl.)Handlos
(pink trinity; redi gadodede) Commelinaceae Hair growth promotion products
Table 2. Plants used for manufacturing cosmetics and cosmeceuticals in Suriname.
constipation, diabetes mellitus, and skin conditions [53,54]. eir
alleged therapeutic ecacy may be associated with the presence in the
leaves of phytochemicals such as acetylated mannans, polymannans,
anthraquinones, and lectins [55,56]. For this reasons, the leaf gel
is included in various health-promoting beverages and dietary
supplements to support digestion [57]. It is furthermore used for
manufacturing disposable facial tissues, makeup, moisturizers, soaps,
sunscreens, shaving creams, shampoos, skin lotions, and ointments
for minor burns and sunburns [55-59]. ese applications are
presumably based on the soothing, moisturizing, and emollient eects
of A. vera leaf gel [58,59] which may particularly be associated with the
polysaccharides in the gel [58,59].
Azadirachta indica A. Juss.
Preparations from the leaves of the neem A. indica have been used
in Indian Ayurveda for over two millennia against a wide variety of
diseases, ranging from colds, fevers, and respiratory conditions to high
blood pressure and diabetes mellitus [36,37,60]. e oil extracted from
A. indica fruits and seeds has been used as a folk medicine against acne
and redness and inammation of the skin [36,37,61]. ese benecial
eects may be related to the antiparasitic and antimicrobial activities
of the limonoids azadirachtin and nimbinin in the leaves [38,62], as
well as the soothing and moisturizing eects of oleic acid, linoleic acid,
stearic acid, and palmitic acid in the oil [62]. As a result, neem oil is
used for preparing a large variety of cosmetics such as soaps, shampoos,
balms, creams as well as toothpastes and nail polishes [63].
Bertholletia excelsa Humb. & Bonpl.
e edible seeds of the Brazilian nut B. excelsa are rich in
dietary ber, vitamins, and dietary minerals, and are a staple diet
of the natives residing in the Amazon forest [64]. e seeds are also
commercially harvested and included in mixed nuts and confections
coated with chocolate [64]. e oil extracted from the seeds contains
75% unsaturated fatty acids composed mainly of oleic and linoleic
acids, as well as phytosterols, several phenolic compounds, vitamin E,
and remarkably high levels of selenium [65-67]. It is used in creams,
lotions, conditioners, and hair care products, as well as in formulations
for alleviating dry, aky skin, ageing skin, acne, and skin inammation.
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Plant species Main plant part(s) used Presumed key active
constituent(s)
Aloe vera (L) Burm.f. Gel from fresh leaves Polysaccharides
Azadirachta indica A. Juss. Extracts from fresh leaves,
seed oil Limonoids
Bertholletia excelsa Humb.
& Bonpl. Seed oil Fatty acids, phenolic
compounds, vitamin E
Bryophyllum pinnatum
(Lam) Oken. Extracts from fresh leaves Glycosides, saponins
Carapa guianensis Aubl. Seed oil Limonoids, fatty acids
Cocos nucifera L. Extracts from fresh fruits,
seed oil
Phenolic compounds,
vitamin E, terpenes,
saponins
Copaifera guyanensis Desf. Trunk oil Terpenes
Cucumis sativus L. Extracts from fresh fruits Water, antioxidants
Cymbopogon citratus (Dc)
Stapf. Extracts from fresh leaves Essential oils
Eclipta prostata (L.) L. Extracts from fresh leaves Coumestans, glycosides,
amyrins
Euterpe oleracea Mart. Extracts from fresh fruits,
ground seeds Anthocyanins
Hibiscus sabdaria L. Extracts from fresh calyces Anthocyanins, vitamin E,
avonoids
Laportea aestuans (L) Chew. Extracts from fresh leaves Essential oils
Leonotis nepetifolia (L)
R. Br. Extracts from fresh leaves Flavonoids, terpenes,
essential oils, coumarins
Maximiliana maripa
(Correa) Drude. Seed oil Vitamins A and E
compounds, fatty acids
Morinda citrifolia L. Extracts from fresh fruits,
seed oil Flavonoids, fatty acids
Moringa olifeira Lam. Extracts from fresh leaves Ben oil
Orchid spp. Seed extracts Essential oils
Plectranthus amboinicus
Lour. Extracts from fresh leaves Essential oils
Senna alata (L.) Roxb. Extracts from fresh leaves Phenolic compounds,
essential oils
Tamarindus indica L. Extracts from fresh leaves,
seed extracts
Polyphenols, avonoids,
xyloglucan, fatty acids
Tripogandra serrulata
(Vahl.) Handlos
Extracts from fresh leaves or
whole plant Unknown
Table 3. Plants and main plant part(s) used for manufacturing cosmetics and cosmeceuticals
in Suriname and their presumed key active constituent(s).
ese applications may be supported by the moisturizing eects of
the fatty acids [68] and the antioxidant properties of particularly the
phenolic compounds and vitamin E [67].
Bryophyllum pinnatum (Lam) Oken.
Preparations from the mother-of-thousands B. pinnatum (Figure
7) are abundantly used as traditional astringent, anti-inammatory,
and antiseptic substances to treat burns, wounds, bruises, boils, and
sores [69-71]. is may account for the inclusion of B. pinnatum
constituents in a variety of cosmetics and cosmeceuticals such as
products for facial cleansing, creams for ghting wrinkles, ointments
for treating acne, rashes and warts, anti-dandru shampoos, hair
growth-promoting tonics, anti-ageing creams, and skin regeneration-
promoting formulas [72,73]. Further support for these applications
comes from the benecial eects of fumaric acid in B. pinnatum leaves
against skin conditions such as psoriasis [74], and the cicatrizant and
amphiphatic and antimicrobial properties of the saponins in various
parts of the plant that may promote woud healing [75].
Carapa guianensis Aubl.
e bark of the crabwood C. guianensis contains alkaloids such
as carapina which possess antipyretic properties [76]. Concotions
prepared from the leaves and fruits are traditionally used to relieve
itching and treat intestinal worms [76]. e seed oil from the plant is
also known as carap oil or crab oil and contains limonoids with, among
others, anti-inammatory, anti-allergic, antiparasitic, antimicrobial,
and wound healing-promoting properties [76,77-79]. For these
reasons, carap oil is commonly included in skin care preparations, skin-
regenerating products, anti-ageing treatments, anti-cellulite creams,
and anti-inammatory acne medications [80]. e oil also contains
a number of unsaturated fatty acids such as palmitic acid, oleic acid,
and linoleic acid which make it useful as an ingredient of soaps, body
washes, skin conditioners, facial moisturizers, facial masks, eye creams,
as well as shampoos and hair conditioners [81,82].
Cocos nucifera L.
Parts of the coconut tree C. nucifera are traditionally used for
treating a variety of diseases. For instance, a tea from the husk bers
is used in Brazil against diarrhea [83] and in Haiti against amenorrhea
[84], a tea from the roots would treat diarrhea and stomach pains in
Papua New Guinea [85], while coconut oil would prevent hair loss and
promote wound healing according to Fijan and Indonesian beliefs [86].
ese actions may be associated with the presence of phenols, tannins,
leucoanthocyanidins, avonoids, triterpenes, steroids, alkaloids,
triterpenes, saponins, and condensed tannins in several parts of the
plant [87], as well as that of vitamin E and a number of fatty acids in
coconut oil [88]. For these reasons, coconut oil is an important base
ingredient of shower gels, shampoos and hair conditions, moisturizers,
emollients, nourishing agents, body butters, fragrances, sunscreens,
formulations to prevent drying of the skin, anti-redness agents, anti-
ageing agents, and remedies for skin infections [89].
Copaifera guyanensis Desf.
e medicinal properties of the oil from the copaiba tree C.
guyanensis (Figure 8) were already known by American Indians, who
observed that injured animals rubbed themselves on the tree’s trunk
to heal their wounds [90,91]. Copaiba oil is obtained by tapping
the tree’s trunk and was traditionally used against inammations,
infections, malignancies, to stimulate wound healing, and to treat
skin diseases [92,93]. e biologically active substances of copaiba
oils are sesquiterpenes such as caryophyllene and diterpenes such as
copalic acid and kaurenoic acid [92,93]. ese compounds display
Figure 7. The mother-of-thousands Bryophyllum pinnatum (Lam) Oken. (Crassulaceae)
(from https://goo.gl/images/fbgqpR)
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substantial anti-inammatory and antimicrobial eects including
activity against Staphylococcus aureus (Staphylococcaceae) [92,94,95]
which is a common cause of skin infections. For these reasons, copaiba
oils are extensively used by the cosmetic industry in anti-acne creams,
formulations for treating stretch masks and scars, as well as shampoos,
capillary lotions, soaps, and bathing foams [96].
Cucumis sativus L.
e fruits of the cucumber plant C. sativus consist for more than
90% of water [97], and contain, among others, vitamin K, B vitamins,
as well as vitamin C and other antioxidants such as β-carotene,
avonoids, and phenolic compounds [98,99]. e high water contents
is considered benecial to the skin [97,100], while the antioxidants
may protect the skin from the eects of ageing [101,102]. For these
reasons, C. sativus fruits, fruit extracts, fruit water, fruit juice, and
seed extracts are abundantly used as skin-conditioning agents and
included in numerous cosmetic formulations [97,100,103]. A few are
foundations, facial and eye makeup, face and neck products, cleansing
products, skin-hydrating products, bath foams, soaps and detergents,
facial peel-o masks, hair care products, nail care products, body and
hand lotions, and products for skin rejuvenation [97,100,103].
Cymbopogon citratus (Dc) Stapf.
Preparations from the lemongrass C. citratus leaves are popularly
used, among others, as antimicrobials, antiprotozoals, anti-
inammatory compounds, antidyspeptics, spasmolytics, antipyretics,
diuretics, and insect repellents [104,105]. ese applications are
supported by the antibacterial, antifungal, antiparasitic, antidiarrheal,
anti-inammatory, cytoprotective, and antioxidant eects noted in
preclinical models [106]. At least part of these observations may be
attributable to the presence in the leaves of avonoids and phenolic
compounds as well as essential oils containing citral, geraniol,
citronellol, citronella, and myrcene [107,108]. e pleasantly smelling
essential oils are widely included as fragrances in perfumes, soaps,
detergents, and creams [109]. Citral also serves as starting material for
the synthesis of ionones for perfumes and cosmetics [107,109]. e by-
products from the distillation process that yields the oils are used for
the production of skin care products such as lotions, creams, and facial
cleansers [107,109]. ese applications are primarily attributed to the
meaningful antimicrobial properties of the oils [110].
Eclipta prostata (L.) L.
e main traditional indications for the false daisy E. prostrata are
gastrointestinal complaints, liver ailments, respiratory tract disorders,
fever, spleen enlargement, skin problems, cuts and wounds, microbial
and parasitic infections, as well as hair loss and graying of hair [111].
e latter uses are supported by the addition of an ethanol extract of
E. prostrata leaves to hair oils in Ayurveda [111] and the hair growth-
stimulatory eects of petroleum ether extracts of these parts of the
plant in shaved laboratory rats [112,113]. ese applications may be
attributable, at least partially, to the presence in E. prostrata of, among
others, coumestans such as wedelolactone; oleanane-type glycosides
such as eclalbasaponins; and triterpenes such as amyrins, precursors
of ursolic acid and oleanolic acid [114]. ese compounds possess,
among others, antibacterial, anti-inammatory, antieczema, as well as
antioxidant properties [115-118] which may confer protection from
damage caused by ultraviolet irradiation [114]. For these resons, E.
prostrata extracts and oils are included in many hair growth promoters,
products to prevent hair loss, as well as skin-nourishing and anti-
ageing agents [22].
Euterpe oleracea Mart.
e fruits of the açaí palm E. oleracea are in various parts of the
world - particularly Brazil - processed into pulp for supply to food
product manufacturers or retailers; sold as frozen pulp or juice;
incorporated in beverages, smoothies, and other food products; and
formulated as dietary supplements [119]. e popularity of these
products is based on the remarkably high polyphenolic anthocyanin
contents [120,121] and the superior antioxidant qualities of the açaí
berry [122] which would provide a host of health benets [123]. ese
claims, together with the relatively high levels of oleic and palmitic fatty
acids in the oil extracted from açai berrries [124], have encouraged the
production of a variety of açai-based cosmetics. e anthocyanins and
phenolic compounds would treat and prevent skin damage and are
included in, among others, skin regenerating and anti-ageing creams,
anti-inammatory products, and sunscreens [125,126]. e soothing
and nourishing fatty acids would make it suitable for use in cosmetics
as soaps, skin moisturizers shampoos, and hair conditioners [125,126].
Hibiscus sabdaria L.
Preparations from the calyces of the roselle H. sabdaria (Figure 9)
are used in many folk medicinal systems for treating a broad range of
conditions such as microbial infections, cough and bronchitis, kidney
Figure 8. Harvesting copaiba oil from the trunk of Copaifera guyanensis Desf. (Fabaceae)
(from https://goo.gl/images/ib4aaL).
Figure 9. The roselle Hibiscus sabdaria L. (Malvaceae) (from https://goo.gl/
images/75wRmG).
Mans DRA (2017) “A thing of beauty is a joy forever”. Plants and plant-based preparations for facial care in Suriname
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problems, and gastrointestinal conditions [127]. ese applications
may be attributable, at least in part, to the presence in the plant
of antioxidant anthocyanins [127,128] and vitamin E [127,129]; a
number of avonoids with notable antibacterial activity [127,130];
and the phenolic compound protocatechuic acid that exerted an anti-
inammatory eect in laboratory animals [131]. For these reasons,
extracts from H. sabdaria calyces are commonly included in skin
care products, skin-protecting agents, anti-ageing creams, and hair
care products [132]. Notably, crude polysaccharides in H. sabdaria
owers had a potent stimulatory eect on the proliferation of cultured
keratinocytes [133].
Laportea aestuans (L) Chew.
Preparations from the West Indian wood nettle L. aestuans are
traditionally used for treating many ailments including microbial
and parasitic infections, minor eye infections, as well as syphilis and
gonorrhea [134,135]. At least some of these applications may be
attributable to the presence in the plant of bioactive substances with
antimicrobial and antioxidant properties [136-138]. A few examples
are the chrysen-2-ol derivative and methyl salicylate in the essential oils
from the leaves which exhibited in vitro antimicrobial activity [138,139].
ese observations suggest that substances from L. aestuans may be
useful against cellular injury and ageing. As a result, extracts from this
plant are widely used in massage oils, lotions, creams, ointments, lip
balms, face masks, scrubs, facial toners, antidandru shampoos and
conditioners, as well as remedies for treating acne, eczema, blemishes
from chicken pox and insect bites, and scarring from burns [136].
Some of these preparations may be scented with the essential oils from
the plant [139].
Leonotis nepetifolia (L) R. Br.
e lion’s ear L. nepetifolia (Figure 10) contains various bioactive
constituents such as avonoids, alkaloids, quinines, saponins,
terpenoids and terpenes, coumarins, as well as essential oils [140,141].
ese compounds are present at varying concentrations in the sepals,
leaves, stems, roots, and owers of the plant [142,143] and possess
meaningful free radical-scavenging, antibacterial, antiparasitic,
insecticidal, and anti-inammatory properties [141]. is may account
for the broad traditional use of parts of L. nepetifolia in order to suppress
allergy symptoms, counteract muscle spasms, calm agitation, relieve
pain, heal burns, alleviate the symptoms of bronchial asthma, treat
fever and colds, ease pain from arthritis, and ght malaria [141,144].
L. nepetifolia leaf extracts are also included in formulations for treating
acne, skin rashes, and skin infections, as well as in skin-rejuvenating
and -regenerating products [145,146]. e avonoids have antioxidant
activities while the essential oils have emollient as well as antibacterial
properties [145,146] and confer, together with the coumarins and
diterpenes [140,146] a pleasant fragrance to these products.
Maximiliana maripa (Correa) Drude.
e pulp and seed kernels of the fruits of the maripa palm M.
maripa yield an edible oil that consists of, among others, α-carotene,
tocotrienols, tocopherols, phytosterols, glycolipids, and fatty acids [147-
149]. ese compounds have emollient, antioxidant, and antimicrobial
properties [150], which may explain the long traditional use of maripa
oil for skin care, to prevent skin ageing, to stop alopecia and stimulate
hair growth, to ght stretch marks, and to smoothen scarred skin [151-
152]. It is also used as a massage oil to bring relief in rheumatic parts of
the body [152]. For these reasons, M. maripa oil is commonly included
in soaps, moisturizers and other skin care products, rejuvenation and
anti-ageing formulations, creams for treating acne, as well as shampoos
and hair conditioners [148,152].
Morinda citrifolia L.
Preparations from the noni M. citrifolia are used for treating a
long list of ailments ranging from wounds, sores, burns, sprains, and
dislocations to diabetes mellitus, high blood pressure, AIDS, and
malignant neoplasms [153-155]. More recently, clinical studies found
that noni leaf extracts protected the skin from erythema caused by
ultraviolet light [155], and that noni seed oil had meaningful anti-
inammatory activity in acne [156]. As a result, a host of noni-based
cosmetics and cosmeceuticals have been manufactured, including
hand and facial soaps, shampoos and conditioners, foot and body
lotions, body powders, deodorants, ointments for treating acne,
formulations to ght wrinkles, as well as eye creams, rejuvenating face
masks, moisturizers, and night creams to reduce signs of aging [155].
e antioxidant activity of avonoids and the emollient properties of
fatty acids in the fruits and leaves of the plant [153,154,157-159], and
the anti-inammatory action of ingredients in the seed oil [156,159]
may contribute to the benecial eects of these products.
Moringa oleifera Lam.
M. olifeira is traditionally used to stimulate diuresis, to relieve
spasms, for treating the symptoms of diabetes mellitus, as a cardiac
stimulant, as an antimicrobial and antiparasitic substance, and for
treating many other conditons [160]. e edible oil from the seeds
is called ben oil because of its high contents of the fatty acid behenic
acid [161,162]. Ben oil is included in moisturizing and emollient oils
for therapeutic massages and is used as a carrier oil for aromatherapy
[161,162]. Ben oil as well as M. olifeira leaf extracts also contain
substantial quantities of vitamins A, C, and E as well as β-carotene and
polyphenols which may possess anti-inammatory and anti-oxidant
properties [163,164]. For these reasons, both the seed oil and leaf
extracts are included in creams, lotions, balms, soaps, scrubs, body oils,
moisturizers, hair care products, and sunscreens [161,162,165-167].
Ben oil is also used as a base for perfumes because of the capacity of
behenic acid to neutralize malodors [167].
Orchidaceae
Members of the orchid family Orchidaceae (Figure 11) have a
long tradional use in various medicinal systems [168]. is holds
Figure 10. The lion’s ear Leonotis nepetifolia (L) R. Br. (Lamiaceae) (from https://goo.gl/
images/rwb9QF).
Mans DRA (2017) “A thing of beauty is a joy forever”. Plants and plant-based preparations for facial care in Suriname
Volume 2(4): 11-16
Clin Med Invest, 2017 doi: 10.15761/CMI.1000143
particularly true for traditional Chinese medicine that used certain
species for treating a variety of diseases ranging from urinary tract
disorders to diabetes mellitus, hypertension, and cancer [169]. e
apparent therapeutic ecacy of these preparations may be attributable
to alkaloids with medicinal properties [169], but this remains to be
established. At least one orchid species - the vanilla orchid Vanilla
planifolia Jacks. ex Andrews - is renowned as a avoring in baking,
for perfume manufacture, and in aromatherapy [170]. Extracts from
other orchid species are also incorporated in a variety of cosmetics
and cosmeceuticals. Some contain phenolics and avonoids with
meaningful antioxidant and anti-inammatory activity and are
important ingredients of anti-ageing creams [168,171-173]. Others
contain substances with a high water-binding capacity and/or
constituents that increase stratum corneum hydration, and have
become essential ingredients of skin moisturizers and emollients [172].
Orchid owers are also an important source of fragrances for toiletries,
skin care products, bathing products, and hair care products [174]. In
many cases, their scent is analyzed by perfumers to identify potentially
novel bouquets [175].
Plectranthus amboinicus Lour.
Preparations from Plectranthus species are traditionally used
for treating a broad range of conditions including gastrointestinal,
respiratory, and genitourinary ailments as well as infections and
fever [176,177]. Extracts from the leaves and the strongly oregano-
like scented essential oils from this plant genus are also used against a
variety of skin problems including burns, wounds, sores, insect bites,
parasitic infections, and allergies [178,179], as well as an antiseptic
dressing for wounds [180]. Some of these traditional uses may be
explained by the presence in these plant species of monoterpenes and
sesquiterpenes diterpenoids and phenolic compounds with, among
others, antimicrobial, anti-inammatory, and antioxidant properties
[181,182]. For these reasons, extracts and essential oils from the leaves of
the thick leaf thyme P. amboinicus are included in soaps, moisturizers,
skin cleansers; anti-acne formulations; anti-wrinkle, skin-rejuvenating,
and anti-ageing night creams; and ointments for treating insect bites
and itchy skin [176,177].
Senna alata (L.) Roxb.
e leaves, seeds, fruits, bark, and roots of the candle bush S.
alata (Figure 12) contain a number of bioactive compounds such as
anthraquinones, phytosterols, tannins, alkaloids, avonoids, terpenes,
phenolic compounds, and essential oils [183,184]. Some of these
compounds have been associated with the laxative and purgative
properties of S. alata preparations [183,184]; their ecacy against
scabies and ringworm infections as well as fungal infections of the
skin such as Pityriasis versicolor [185]; their antibacterial eects [186],
their anti-inammatory activity [187], and their capacity to reduce
ultraviolet irradiation-induced skin damage [188]. For these reasons, S.
alata leaf extracts are included in many cosmetics and dermatological
skin care products such as soaps, sunscreens, anti-ageing agents, and
skin-repairing agents [189].
Tamarindus indica L.
Preparations from T. indica are traditionally used fror treating
a broad range of ailments such as abdominal ailments, parasitic
infestation, fever, malaria, and respiratory problems [190]. ese
properties may be attributable to the presence in the plant of various
phytochemicals with, among others, antibacterial, antifungal,
antiviral, antiparasitic, anti-inammatory, and antioxidant properties
[191,192,193,194]. T. indica leaves contain various polyphenols and
avonoids with wound healing-stimulating properties [195,196], the
seeds contain the hemicellulose xyloglucan which can protect the skin
from the damaging eects of ultraviolet radiation [197], and the seed
oil contains abundant amounts of linoleic acid and oleic acid [194]. For
these reasons, T. indica preparations are included in regenerating and
anti-ageing night creams, sunscreens, ointments for treating minor
skin rashes, as well as serums, gels, facial toners, moisturizers, face
masks, lip balms, body lotions, and soaps [198].
Tripogandra serrulata (Vahl) Handlos
Preparations from the whole plant or the leaves of the pink trinity
T. serrulata - ether alone or together with parts from other plants - are
highly valued in various South American and Caribbean countries. T.
serrulata-containing remedies are traditionally used against biliousness
and kidney disorders, as a purgative, and to cleanse the uterus and the
oviducts [199], but also for treating traumas and wounds [200,201]
along with inammations and fractures [202]. In addition, the
macerated leaves are used to prevent hair loss and promote hair growth
[44,203] and are applied to the face to stimulate beard growth [199].
For these reasons, T. serrulata leaf extracts are included in a number of
hair care products [200,203], despite the lack of comprehensive data on
the phytochemical information about the extracts.
Figure 11. The tiger orchid Oncidium jonesianum (Orchidaceae) (from https://goo.gl/
images/hLYpNu).
Figure 12. The candle bush Senna alata (L.) Roxb. (Fabaceae) (from https://goo.gl/images/
woZP5q).
Mans DRA (2017) “A thing of beauty is a joy forever”. Plants and plant-based preparations for facial care in Suriname
Volume 2(4): 12-16
Clin Med Invest, 2017 doi: 10.15761/CMI.1000143
Future prospects
is paper has addressed the beauty industry in Suriname, the
commonly used plants for manufacturing these products in the
country, as well as the scientic rationale for using these plants. So
far, only a relative handful of Suriname’s abundant plant biodiversity
encompassing an estimated 5,000 higher plants is used for cosmetic and
cosmeceutical purposes. Furthermore, these plants are mainly collected
(and sometimes cultivated) in the accessible parts of the country’s
hinterland rather than in the less approachable and ill-explored
regions in the remote south of the country [49]. us, it is possible that
Suriname is in the possession of a largely untapped reservoir for the
development of the currently much-sought-aer herbal cosmetics and
cosmeceuticals.
is holds the prevision of identifying numerous plant products
for developing novel naturally-derived beauty products. For instance,
the orange-red wax from the seeds of the annatto or lipstick plant Bixa
orellana L. (Bixaceae) (Figure 13) has a long use of facial and body
ornamentation by the Indigenous peoples of the Amazon basin [204]
and may not only be included in lipsticks but also in rouge powders
and cream blushes, eye shadows, and nail polishes. e young shoots of
the sour orange Citrus x aurantium L., 1753 (Rutaceae) are commonly
chewed on by particularly older Creole women to freshen their breath,
and the essential oil in these parts of the plant may be included in
mouth washes, soaps, skin care products, and deoderants. And the
essential oil from the seeds of the tonka bean tree Dipteryx odorata
(Aubl.) Willd. (Fabaceae) is widely used in the perfume industry
because of its high contents of coumarins with very pleasant odors, but
may also be incorporated into hair and skin care products because of
the folkloristic use of tonka bean oil to fortify the scalp and improve
hair growth [205].
However, important conditions to take advantage of these
opportunities are the creation of a favorable technological
environment, the reinforcement of good manufacturing practices, and
the implementation of successful marketing strategies. Furthermore,
information about the pharmacologically active ingredient(s) and
mechanism(s) of action of cosmetics and cosmeceuticals should be
mandatory, even though neither of these products has to undergo
the thorough and lengthy evaluations required for pharmaceutical
products. Unfortunately, this is by no means always the case.
For instance, despite some supporting evidence for wound healing-
promoting activity of A. vera, “there is a need for high-level evidence and
Figure 13. Seeds of the annatto Bixa orellana L. (Bixaceae) (from https://goo.gl/images/
w2V5BE).
further large, randomized control trials to support the use of A. vera-
derived products as topical agents or incorporated within dressings for the
treatment of skin lesions” [206]. Products from E. olearacea are among
the most popular functional foods and cosmetics/cosmeceuticals
throughout the world, but the scientic evidence to support their many
claims of health benets is insucient [121]. And although tonics for
general health from freshly squeezed noni fruits, ‘power’ and energy
drinks that contain noni fruit juice, and powders from dried noni fruits
or leaves formulated as capsules or pills are in high demand, most of the
claims of M. citrifolia are not supported by hard scientic evidence [154].
Clearly, further development of the herbal cosmetics/cosmeceuticals
industry including that in Suriname requires close attention to these
aspects. Evidently, such information is not only of benet to the
consumer but also supports the reliability of the manutacturer.
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