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Değirmenci Z., Topalbekiroğlu M..; Effects of Weight, Dyeing and the Twist Direction on the Spirality of Single Jersey Fabrics.
FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2010, Vol. 18, No. 3 (80) pp. 81-85.
81
Effects of Weight, Dyeing and the Twist
Direction on the Spirality of Single Jersey
Fabrics
Züleyha Değirmenci,
Mehmet Topalbekiroğlu
Department of Textile Engineering,
University of Gaziantep,
27310 Gaziantep, Turkey
E-mail: degirmenci@gantep.edu.tr
tbekir@gantep.edu.tr
Abstract
This paper investigates the effect of fabric weight on the spirality of single jersey fabrics.
For this aim, ten knitted fabrics with different weights were knitted with 100% cotton and
Tt 19.7/1 combed ring spun yarn, carded S ring spun yarn and carded Z ring spun yarn
to investigate the effect of the type of yarn on spirality. Furthermore, these samples were
dyed to explore the dyeing effect on spirality. After the dyeing process, the twenty fabrics
produced were laundered and dried according to domestic laundering and drying test
procedures. It was observed from the study that the fabric weight per m² has a signicant
effect on spirality for all the yarn types. Another nding obtained was that the dyeing
process reduces the spirality by about half, which shows that fabrics knitted from carded S
ring spun yarns give lower spirality values.
Key words: single jersey fabric, spirality, weight, dyeing.
therefore the formation of spirality must
be prevented by various yarn-related
methods. Some of these methods include
low-twist-lively yarns; balanced plied
yarns can be preferred, and S-twist and
Z-twist single yarns are used at alternate
feeders, respectively [1].
A single jersey fabric is produced by the
rotation movement of the circular knit-
ting machine, which is in a tubular form.
Single jersey knitted structures, which
are widely used in knitted garments,
cause some problems because of their un-
balanced structures. The most important
problem of the single jersey structure is
fabric spirality, which affects all the fab-
ric and creates big problems during the
clothing stage as it affects the garment by
displacing side seams, which causes an
important quality problem. This problem
is prevented during the nishing and dye-
ing processes by different methods [2].
There are many researches concerning
spirality. Araujo and Smith investigated
spirality in both dry and fully relaxed
Jersey fabrics produced from a series of
relaxed spun yarns. They investigated
the effect of yarn treatment, yarn plying
and yarn plaiting on snarl upon spiral-
ity. They used 20 different yarns with
different properties, most of them being
100% cotton, a few of them - 95.5% cot-
ton– 0.05% LMP (Low Melt Polyester),
and one of them was 100% acrylic. In
that study they observed that untreated
yarns exhibited a high tendency to snarl,
and fabrics knitted from these yarns had
higher spirality. Furthermore, yarn dye-
ing, yarn steaming, yarn sizing with PVA
(Polyvinilalcohol), the heat setting of
yarn and the addition of LMP reduce spi-
rality. On the other hand, they indicated
that yarn plying and yarn plaiting reduce
spirality [3].
In another study of Araujo and Smith, the
effect of yarn spinning technology on the
spirality of jersey fabrics of 100% cotton
and 50/50 cotton /PES blend yarns in dry
and fully relaxed states was studied. The
100% cotton yarns showed a greater an-
gle of spirality than the 50/50 blend in a
fully relaxed state. For the 100% cotton,
in both a dry relaxed and fully relaxed
state, the decrease in the angle of spiral-
ity was as follows: friction > ring > rotor
> air-jet. For 50/50 blend yarns, both the
air-jet and rotor spun yarns, which had
the lowest twist multiples and tendency
to snarl, had the lowest angles of spirality
in both the dry relaxed and fully relaxed
states [4].
To investigate the effect of yarn count,
yarn twist, and fabric tightness on spi-
rality, Tao, Dhingra and Chan produced
56 sample fabrics using 100% cotton ring
spun yarns. They selected 3 yarn counts,
5 twist factors and 4 levels of the tight-
ness factor. The study revealed that the
yarn twist and fabric tightness were the
most predominant factors contributing to
fabric spirality. The experimental results
also demonstrated the importance of re-
laxation treatment for fabric spirality [5].
In another study the effect of the yarn
count and twist multiplier as functions
of yarn parameters and fabric tightness
as a function of fabric parameters were
investigated by Tao, Lo and Lau. For this
aim they produced 30 fabrics from 100%
cotton yarn. From the experiments, they
found that modifying rotor spun yarns ef-
n Introduction
Knitted fabrics, especially ready-made
knitted garments, t-shirts, underwear
and lingerie are an important part of the
textile sector. All people must use knit-
ted fabrics during their life. The reasons
for this usage can be explained in various
ways: Firstly, it has an elastic and light
structure; secondly, single jersey fabrics
are easily and quickly produced; thirdly
they have a lighter weight and lower
production cost, and nally, because of
their smooth surface, they are convenient
for printing. However, besides all the
advantages, these fabrics have quality
problems like dimensional change and
deformation. The dimensional instability
of the knitted loop structure can be seen.
According to the ideal model, the angle
between the course and wale line must
be perpendicular. However, especially
cotton single jersey fabrics have a ten-
dency for the courses and wales to skew
while relaxation progresses. Spirality can
be dened as a fabric condition resulting
from the knitted wales and courses being
angularly displaced from the ideal right
angle, which is caused by yarn liveliness.
It is possible to use different terms such as
torque, skew and bias. Bow is fabric dis-
tortion in the course direction caused by
multifeeder knitting or an uneven take-
down. This displacement of the courses
and wales can be expressed as a percent-
age or angle measurement in degrees.
While the bow is almost improved by the
nishing process, spirality is only tempo-
rarily improved by the same process, and
after laundering, spirality recurs. Thus
spirality has an important inuence on
both the aesthetic and functional proper-
ties of knitted fabrics and garments, and
FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2010, Vol. 18, No. 3 (80)
82
fectively reduced yarn twist liveliness to
a very low or zero level. It was con rmed
that the modi ed rotor yarn would great-
ly reduce fabric spirality in all the cases
studied. In the same way, fabrics made
from coarse yarns had higher levels of
spirality than those from ner yarns [6].
The study by Higgins et al showed the
effect of different tumble drying tem-
peratures on the shrinkage, skewness
and spirality properties of 100% cotton
plain, interlock and lacoste fabrics. They
applied three drying conditions to the
fabrics: tumble drying at 65 - 57 ºC and
22 ºC, and at drying at 65 - 57 ºC. They
observed the lowest spirality values for
plain and lacoste fabrics at 65 - 57 ºC for
tumble drying and 65 - 57 ºC for the at
drying processes. On the other hand, for
interlock fabrics the spirality value was
the lowest at both 22 ºC and 65 - 57 ºC
for the tumble drying processes [7].
Chen et al investigated the relationship
between the spirality of plain wool knits
and production factors, such as the twist
coef cient, loop length, ber diameter
and the tightness factor. They found that
balanced twist factors for both ply and
single yarns affect fabric spirality. They
also indicated that the tightness fac-
tor has no signi cant effect on spirality,
while increasing the loop length and ber
diameter causes higher spirality [8].
Research on the dimensional and physi-
cal properties of cotton and cotton/span-
dex single jersey fabrics was made by
Marmaralı, in which three different types
of tightness and two different types of
cotton/spandex fabrics were used. At the
end of the research, it was found that the
spirality was greater in loose fabrics and
in non-spandex fabrics. Besides the fact
that the spirality values of cotton/span-
dex fabrics were lower than the accept-
able level of 5º, cotton/spandex fabrics
with spandex in every course had consid-
erably lower spirality values than those
with spandex in alternating courses [9].
In another study by Marmaralı, the spi-
rality of single jersey fabrics knitted from
two plied cotton yarns was studied. She
selected 20 samples of different yarn
twist and plying twist. It was observed
that increasing the twist coef cient of
single yarns increases spirality. In addi-
tion, the twist coef cient of folded yarns
in the S direction resulted in the lowest
spirality [1].
The aim of this study was to test the effect
of fabric weight on the spirality of single
jersey fabrics. Spirality is a common fault
in the circular knitting industry, hence the
causes of spirality have been investigated
for many years; however, there has been
limited study on the relationship between
fabric weight and spirality, therefore this
experimental study explores the spirality
properties of 100% cotton knitted fabrics
with a changing fabric weight.
n Experimental
The ten different fabrics used in the ex-
perimental study were produced by a
conventional textile mill. All the fab-
rics were knitted as single jersey with
Tt 19.7/1 cotton yarns. The reasons for
this choice of fabric are that they are
versatile and used in t-shirt, underwear,
sportswear and baby clothes due to their
easy and fast production, as well as their
cheapness and comfort. The production
method of the yarns used to produce these
fabrics is basically the conventional ring
spinning method. Furthermore, the ring
yarns were differentiated as carded ring
yarns twisted in the S direction, carded
ring yarns twisted in the Z direction and
combed ring yarns. In Table 1, the ber
properties used to produce combed and
carded yarns are given. Characteristics of
the yarns are given in Table 2.
By using a Monarch 9 machine, differ-
ent fabrics were produced. In addition
to nine fabrics, a fabric was knitted us-
ing both carded S yarn and carded Z yarn
in the same fabric. The characteristics
of both carded S and carded Z yarns are
same; only the twist direction is differ-
ent. This type of fabric is known as S-Z
in literature. In the end, there were ten
different fabrics. These fabrics were pro-
duced from 19.7/1 Tt cotton on knitting
machines which had 90 feeders; these
machines turned at 30 r.p.m. Technical
properties of the samples are given in
Table 3. The samples are numbered and
the fabrics are determined according to
these numbers.
The following properties: fabric weight
per square meter, the number of stitches
per unit length (1 cm) and the spirality af-
ter washing and drying were determined
using equipment and devices in the labo-
ratories of the Textile Engineering De-
partment of Gaziantep University in ac-
cordance with the standards.
The following weft knitting machine was
used for the production of the fabrics: a
30” diameter single jersey machine with
90 feeders and a total number of needles
of 2582; its speed was 30 r.p.m. This ma-
chine was employed for the knitting ne-
Table 1. Fiber properties for sample yarn
types.
Fiber Properties Type of yarn
Combed Carded
Micronaire 4.4 - 5.1 3.8 - 4.4
Length, mm 30.14 29.94
Tensile, cN/tex 33.75 33.26
Uniformity 84.4 84.0
% 25 Length, mm 29.19 29.59
% 50 Length, mm 15.17 14.22
SFI 4.4 5.0
Humidity, % 8.5 7.2
Table 2. Characteristics of the yarn used in
knitted samples
Yarn Characteristics Tt 19.7/1
combed
Tt 19.7/1
carded S &
carded Z
Thin places,
±50%/1,000 m 1 11
Thick places,
±50%/1,000 m 12 128
Neps per 1,000 m 23 207
Hairiness 6.6 7.2
Tensile, cN/tex 343 288
Elasticity, % 3.9 3.8
Twist, t.p.m. 791 796
q
= 4°
n
o
r
m
a
l
w
a
l
e
course
Figure 2.Measuring the spirality angle (θ)
using a protractor.
Figure 1. Marking the wale and course.
83
FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2010, Vol. 18, No. 3 (80)
ness of 28 yarns. The fabrics were dyed
to investigate the dying effect on spiral-
ity. The dying recipe is given in Table 4.
In this study, the fabric weight was de-
termined according to TSE EN 12127,
April 1999: “Textiles-Fabrics-Determi-
nation of mass per unit area using small
samples”, and the number of wales and
courses were determined according to
TSE EN 14971, July 2006: “Textiles-
Knitted Fabrics-Determination of the
number of stitches per unit length and
unit area.” The results of the samples cal-
culated are given in Table 4 [10, 11].
Prior to marking, the samples were pre-
conditioned and then conditioned as
stipulated by ASTM Practice D 1776,
Conditioning Textiles for Testing. Each
specimen was conditioned for at least 4 h
in an atmosphere of 21 ± 1o C (70 ± 2 oF
) and 65 ± 2% RH by laying each speci-
men separately on a screen or perforated
shelf of a conditioning rack [12].
The last and most important procedure
was laundering. The samples were laun-
dered according to AATCC Test Method
179 (1996): Skewness Change in Fabric
and Garment Twist Resulting from Auto-
matic Home Laundering. The washing
machine preferred was of the domestic
type using programme B. The washing
process lasted 2 hours and 15 minutes
at a temperature of 60 °C. The samples
washed were dried in a tumble dryer for
70 minutes at 70 ºC. These laundering
properties were chosen because single
jersey fabrics are generally used in under
garments, and many people wash and dry
such clothes in these laundering condi-
tions. It is important to investigate the
home laundering effect on spirality [13].
After laundering, the samples were dried
over a perforated table in laboratory con-
ditions. Then the spirality was measured
according to the IWS 276 standard test
method. This method is used to measure
the angle of spirality in the structure of
a plain knitted garment following re-
laxation in water. According to this
method, 5 different places are chosen for
each sample. First a wale is marked by
pen, and the course linked wale is then
marked, as seen in Figure 1. By using a
protractor, the angle different from the
normal of the wale is measured, as seen
in Figure 2 [14].
In order to understand the statistical im-
portance of the weight effect on spiral-
ity, a one way ANOVA was performed.
To determine the relation between the
spirality values of gray fabrics and dyed
fabric, Pearson correlation analysis was
used. For this aim, the statistical software
package SPSS 8.0 was used to interpret
the experimental data. All the test re-
sults were assessed at signicance levels
p ≤ 0.05 and p ≤ 0.01.
n Results and discussion
When analysing the spirality values of
the samples, it was decided that the ef-
fect of the machine rotational direction
and yarn twist direction are related to the
effect of both the weight and dyeing on
spirality. Because of the fact that these ef-
fects are similar to each other, there is no
exact separation of these effects. Table 5
shows spirality values of both grey and
dyed samples after laundering.
Effect of fabric weight on spirality
according to yarn production
technology
It can be seen from Figure 3 (see page
84) that increasing the fabric weight re-
sults in decreasing spirality values for all
the fabrics. According to the ANOVA re-
sults, the effect of fabric weight on spiral-
ity was found to be signicant (p≤0.01)
at a 1% signicance level.
By observing the carded Z yarn fabrics
and combed yarn fabric lines in Fig-
ure 3 (see page 84), it can be seen that
the spirality values of these fabrics are
higher than those of carded S yarn fab-
rics. This situation is due to the relation-
ship between the yarn twist direction and
the direction of machine rotation, the
reason for which being that these yarns
are Z twisted and knitted on a Monarch
machine, which rotates in the same rota-
tional direction.
Finally, it must be stated that when study-
ing knitted fabrics, the results are never
directionally proportional because the
structure of knitted fabric is not stable
Table 3. Production and technical properties of the samples.
Samples Yarn Type
Fabric surface weight,
g/m²
Number of wales
per cm
Number of courses
per cm
Gray Dyed Gray Dyed Gray Dyed
1 Carded S 113 129 12 15 16 16
2 Carded S-Z 115 147 15 15 22 17
3 Carded Z 119 130 12 15 17 15
4 Carded S 122 146 12 15 19 17
5 Combed Z 122 147 13 16 18 16
6 Carded S 130 162 12 16 21 18
7 Combed Z 130 159 13 15 21 15
8 Combed Z 132 160 12 15 20 18
9 Carded Z 136 150 12 17 22 18
10 Carded Z 142 154 12 16 22 17
Table 4. Relevant recipes for the sample fabric
Cooking Recipe Dyeing Recipe Washing Recipe
Product Amount, g/l
(%) Product Amount, g/l
(%) Product Amount, g/l
(%)
Cottoclarin Ok 0.6 Syn Red Shf-Gd (0.008) Acetic Acid 80% 0.5
Mollan 129 0.5 Syn Blau Shf-Brn (0.006) Locanit Sw 0.2
Caustic 1 Mollan 129 0.5 Enbrite Cn-1 (0.35)
Hydrogen
Peroxide 1 Imacol C-2G 0.3 Acetic Acid 80% 0.5
Baystabil Db-T 0.5 Sodium Sulfate 30 Belfasin Lx 2.5
Gemperaz Ahp 6 0.4 Sodium
Carbonate 10 Belsoft Tv 2.5
Acetic Acid 0.5 - - - -
Table 5. Spirality values of both grey and
dyed samples.
Samples Spirality (degree)
Gray Dyed
16.6 2.8
20 0.8
313.8 8.0
45.8 3.2
512.8 5.8
62.8 3.0
78.8 4.8
88.0 3.6
910.2 2.6
10 6.4 2.2
FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2010, Vol. 18, No. 3 (80)
84
nicance level. Again when the results of
the dyed fabrics are compared with those
of the gray fabrics, it is evident that the
dyeing process makes the spirality value
decrease.
Effect of the twist direction on
spirality versus the machine rotation
direction
To analyse the effect of the twist direc-
tion on spirality versus the machine ro-
tational direction, Carded S, Combed,
Carded Z and Carded S-Z ring yarns
were used to knit fabrics on a Monarch
circular knitting machine that rotates in
the (Z) direction. And to compare spiral-
ity values, samples were chosen accord-
ing to whether their weight was similar
to that of S-Z fabric. As seen from Fig-
ure 5, for gray fabrics the lowest spirality
values belong to carded S yarn fabrics,
and the highest values to carded Z yarn
fabrics, while carded S-Z fabrics result
and spirality is measured manually with
a protractor; hence spirality results vary
with all altered conditions.
Effect of dyed fabric weight on
spirality according to yarn production
technology
When Figure 4 is examined, it can be
seen that there is no regular effect. By
increasing the weight of carded s yarn
fabric, the spirality value increases for
some weights and decreases for a few
other weights. Therefore, it can be said
that there is no relationship between fab-
ric weight and spirality for dyed fabrics.
At the same time, ANOVA tests were ap-
plied to the spirality values of carded S
yarn fabrics, the results of which show
that it is not signicant (p ≤ 0.05) at a
5% signicance level. However, in gray
fabrics, the spirality decreases when the
fabric weight increases. The only result
that can be obtained from the data is that
the spirality decreases by half after the
dyeing process.
The combed yarn line shows that by in-
creasing the fabric weight, the spirality
values decrease. However, to investigate
the statistical effect of weight, ANOVA
tests were performed. From the results
it can be seen that the effect of fabric
weight on spirality for dyed combed fab-
rics is not signicant (p ≤ 0.05) at a 5%
signicance level. There is still a lack of
information in the literature concerning
the effect of fabric weight on spirality in
dyed fabrics. According to Tukey Tables,
the fabrics are in the same group, which
means that the weight is not important for
dyed combed yarn fabrics in SPSS.
The line of carded Z yarn fabric dem-
onstrates the effect of weight clearly. At
the same time, the results of the ANOVA
show that the effect of weight on spiral-
ity is signicant (p ≤ 0.01) at a 1% sig-
Figure 3. Spirality of grey fabrics versus fabric weight (Machine
rotates in Z direction).
Figure 4. Spirality of dyed fabrics versus fabric weight (Machine
rotates in Z direction).
Figure 5. Effect of the twist direction on the spirality of gray and
dyed fabrics versus the machine rotation direction.
Figure 6. Spirality of dyed fabric and gray fabric (Machine rotates
Z direction); the number of sample according to Table 3.
Fabric surface weight, g/m2Fabric surface weight, g/m2
85
FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2010, Vol. 18, No. 3 (80)
in zero spirality results. If carded S yarns
and carded Z yarns are used course by
course separately during knitting, there is
no moving area for the loop, and hence
spirality values are measured as zero. Fi-
nally, the results as well as the graphics
and statistical analyses were examined,
and it was concluded that the spirality
values of carded S yarn fabrics were less
than those of carded Z yarn fabrics be-
cause the machine rotation direction and
twist direction of carded S yarn are op-
posite each other.
At the same time, ANOVA tests were ap-
plied to the spirality values of the gray
fabrics. The result for a specimen is sig-
nicant (p ≤ 0.01) at a 1% signicance
level.
On the other hand, the spirality values
of all the fabrics, including both grey
and dyed fabrics, were measured and are
graphically shown in Figure 6. It is evi-
dent from Figure 6 that the dyeing pro-
cess makes the spirality value decrease;
however, the decreasing ratio of the spi-
rality values of dyed fabrics is not direct-
ly proportional to the decreasing ratio of
the spirality values of gray fabrics.
It is the structure type of knitted fabrics
that makes them dimensionally unstable.
Knitted fabrics shrink during the dyeing
process, the shrinkage ratio of which is
undetermined. Therefore, due to the ef-
fect of dyeing and continual laundering
processes, the spaces between loops de-
crease and the moving ability of the loops
decreases too. In general, the swelling of
all bers are different from each other,
and if the bers used are different, the spi-
rality values are different from each other
in accordance with the effect of bers.
However, in this study the ber used for
knitting was 100% cotton, whose spiral-
ity differences do not depend on the ber.
But the yarns are different from carded
S, carded Z and combed yarns. The twist
direction of combed yarn is Z too.
At the beginning of this study, because
of the fact that the combed yarn structure
is more regular than that of carded yarn,
it was thought that the spirality values of
combed yarn fabrics would be less than
those of carded Z yarn fabric. However,
according to the results, there is no di-
rect effect of yarn regularity on spirality.
Therefore, the twist direction of yarns
must be taken into account.
n Conclusion
The main aim of this work was to sys-
tematically investigate the effect of fab-
ric weight, yarn production technologies,
the yarn twist direction and dyeing on the
spirality of knitted fabrics. In this study,
the parameters of plain fabrics made from
cotton ring spun yarns were investigated.
The results show that the weight of fab-
ric is very important for all yarn produc-
tion technologies for both grey and dyed
fabrics. The data, graphics and statistical
analysis of the spirality values showed
that increasing the fabric weight decreas-
es spirality; however, the decrease does
not have the same reverse proportionality
for all yarn types. When the results were
investigated, it was seen that the lowest
spirality values belonged to carded S
yarn fabric, whereas the highest belonged
to carded Z yarn fabric. We expected to
nd similar spirality values for carded
Z yarn fabrics and combed yarn fabrics
because the twist directions of both were
the same; our results conrmed this.
It is apparent from the results that the
dyeing process decreases spirality. The
yarns have torsion, which results in spi-
rality in a knitted fabric. If the torsion
decreases the spirality decreases too. The
dyeing process decreases the torsion,
therefore the spirality values of dyed
fabrics are less than those of gray fab-
rics. This decrease was up to half of the
spirality values of grey fabrics. When the
effect of fabric weight on dyed fabrics
was examined, there was no signicant
effect on spirality, the reason for which
may again be torsion. There is no direct
relation between the decreasing values of
spirality and the spaces between loops.
According to the results, the twist direc-
tion is another important parameter for
spirality. The machine’s rotation has an
effect on the yarn tensional force, which
increases spirality. When the results as
well as the graphics and statistical anal-
yses were examined, it was concluded
that the spirality values of S twisted yarn
fabrics were less than those of Z twisted
yarn fabrics, depending on whether the
machine rotation direction is Z.
Finally, it must be stated that when study-
ing single jersey knitted fabrics, there
must always be a margin of error because
of the unbalanced structure of fabric.
Acknowledgments
We greatfully acknowledge SANKO Company
in Gaziantep, Turkey for their help during
this study.
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brics-Determination of mass per unit area
using small samples”.
11. TSE EN 14971 July 2006 “Textiles-Knitted
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ches per unit length and unit area”.
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Received 15.04.2008 Reviewed 02.11.2009