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Effects of Weight, Dyeing and the Twist Direction on the Spirality of Single Jersey Fabrics

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This paper investigates the effect of fabric weight on the spirality of single jersey fabrics. For this aim, ten knitted fabrics with different weights were knitted with 100% cotton and Tt 19.7/1 combed ring spun yarn, carded S ring spun yarn and carded Z ring spun yarn to investigate the effect of the type of yarn on spirality. Furthermore, these samples were dyed to explore the dyeing effect on spirality. After the dyeing process, the twenty fabrics produced were laundered and dried according to domestic laundering and drying test procedures. It was observed from the study that the fabric weight per m(2) has a significant effect on spirality for all the yarn types. Another finding obtained was that the dyeing process reduces the spirality by about half, which shows that fabrics knitted from carded S ring spun yarns give lower spirality values.
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Değirmenci Z., Topalbekiroğlu M..; Effects of Weight, Dyeing and the Twist Direction on the Spirality of Single Jersey Fabrics.
FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2010, Vol. 18, No. 3 (80) pp. 81-85.
81
Effects of Weight, Dyeing and the Twist
Direction on the Spirality of Single Jersey
Fabrics
Züleyha Değirmenci,
Mehmet Topalbekiroğlu
Department of Textile Engineering,
University of Gaziantep,
27310 Gaziantep, Turkey
E-mail: degirmenci@gantep.edu.tr
tbekir@gantep.edu.tr
Abstract
This paper investigates the effect of fabric weight on the spirality of single jersey fabrics.
For this aim, ten knitted fabrics with different weights were knitted with 100% cotton and
Tt 19.7/1 combed ring spun yarn, carded S ring spun yarn and carded Z ring spun yarn
to investigate the effect of the type of yarn on spirality. Furthermore, these samples were
dyed to explore the dyeing effect on spirality. After the dyeing process, the twenty fabrics
produced were laundered and dried according to domestic laundering and drying test
procedures. It was observed from the study that the fabric weight per m² has a signicant
effect on spirality for all the yarn types. Another nding obtained was that the dyeing
process reduces the spirality by about half, which shows that fabrics knitted from carded S
ring spun yarns give lower spirality values.
Key words: single jersey fabric, spirality, weight, dyeing.
therefore the formation of spirality must
be prevented by various yarn-related
methods. Some of these methods include
low-twist-lively yarns; balanced plied
yarns can be preferred, and S-twist and
Z-twist single yarns are used at alternate
feeders, respectively [1].
A single jersey fabric is produced by the
rotation movement of the circular knit-
ting machine, which is in a tubular form.
Single jersey knitted structures, which
are widely used in knitted garments,
cause some problems because of their un-
balanced structures. The most important
problem of the single jersey structure is
fabric spirality, which affects all the fab-
ric and creates big problems during the
clothing stage as it affects the garment by
displacing side seams, which causes an
important quality problem. This problem
is prevented during the nishing and dye-
ing processes by different methods [2].
There are many researches concerning
spirality. Araujo and Smith investigated
spirality in both dry and fully relaxed
Jersey fabrics produced from a series of
relaxed spun yarns. They investigated
the effect of yarn treatment, yarn plying
and yarn plaiting on snarl upon spiral-
ity. They used 20 different yarns with
different properties, most of them being
100% cotton, a few of them - 95.5% cot-
ton– 0.05% LMP (Low Melt Polyester),
and one of them was 100% acrylic. In
that study they observed that untreated
yarns exhibited a high tendency to snarl,
and fabrics knitted from these yarns had
higher spirality. Furthermore, yarn dye-
ing, yarn steaming, yarn sizing with PVA
(Polyvinilalcohol), the heat setting of
yarn and the addition of LMP reduce spi-
rality. On the other hand, they indicated
that yarn plying and yarn plaiting reduce
spirality [3].
In another study of Araujo and Smith, the
effect of yarn spinning technology on the
spirality of jersey fabrics of 100% cotton
and 50/50 cotton /PES blend yarns in dry
and fully relaxed states was studied. The
100% cotton yarns showed a greater an-
gle of spirality than the 50/50 blend in a
fully relaxed state. For the 100% cotton,
in both a dry relaxed and fully relaxed
state, the decrease in the angle of spiral-
ity was as follows: friction > ring > rotor
> air-jet. For 50/50 blend yarns, both the
air-jet and rotor spun yarns, which had
the lowest twist multiples and tendency
to snarl, had the lowest angles of spirality
in both the dry relaxed and fully relaxed
states [4].
To investigate the effect of yarn count,
yarn twist, and fabric tightness on spi-
rality, Tao, Dhingra and Chan produced
56 sample fabrics using 100% cotton ring
spun yarns. They selected 3 yarn counts,
5 twist factors and 4 levels of the tight-
ness factor. The study revealed that the
yarn twist and fabric tightness were the
most predominant factors contributing to
fabric spirality. The experimental results
also demonstrated the importance of re-
laxation treatment for fabric spirality [5].
In another study the effect of the yarn
count and twist multiplier as functions
of yarn parameters and fabric tightness
as a function of fabric parameters were
investigated by Tao, Lo and Lau. For this
aim they produced 30 fabrics from 100%
cotton yarn. From the experiments, they
found that modifying rotor spun yarns ef-
n Introduction
Knitted fabrics, especially ready-made
knitted garments, t-shirts, underwear
and lingerie are an important part of the
textile sector. All people must use knit-
ted fabrics during their life. The reasons
for this usage can be explained in various
ways: Firstly, it has an elastic and light
structure; secondly, single jersey fabrics
are easily and quickly produced; thirdly
they have a lighter weight and lower
production cost, and nally, because of
their smooth surface, they are convenient
for printing. However, besides all the
advantages, these fabrics have quality
problems like dimensional change and
deformation. The dimensional instability
of the knitted loop structure can be seen.
According to the ideal model, the angle
between the course and wale line must
be perpendicular. However, especially
cotton single jersey fabrics have a ten-
dency for the courses and wales to skew
while relaxation progresses. Spirality can
be dened as a fabric condition resulting
from the knitted wales and courses being
angularly displaced from the ideal right
angle, which is caused by yarn liveliness.
It is possible to use different terms such as
torque, skew and bias. Bow is fabric dis-
tortion in the course direction caused by
multifeeder knitting or an uneven take-
down. This displacement of the courses
and wales can be expressed as a percent-
age or angle measurement in degrees.
While the bow is almost improved by the
nishing process, spirality is only tempo-
rarily improved by the same process, and
after laundering, spirality recurs. Thus
spirality has an important inuence on
both the aesthetic and functional proper-
ties of knitted fabrics and garments, and
FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2010, Vol. 18, No. 3 (80)
82
fectively reduced yarn twist liveliness to
a very low or zero level. It was con rmed
that the modi ed rotor yarn would great-
ly reduce fabric spirality in all the cases
studied. In the same way, fabrics made
from coarse yarns had higher levels of
spirality than those from  ner yarns [6].
The study by Higgins et al showed the
effect of different tumble drying tem-
peratures on the shrinkage, skewness
and spirality properties of 100% cotton
plain, interlock and lacoste fabrics. They
applied three drying conditions to the
fabrics: tumble drying at 65 - 57 ºC and
22 ºC, and  at drying at 65 - 57 ºC. They
observed the lowest spirality values for
plain and lacoste fabrics at 65 - 57 ºC for
tumble drying and 65 - 57 ºC for the at
drying processes. On the other hand, for
interlock fabrics the spirality value was
the lowest at both 22 ºC and 65 - 57 ºC
for the tumble drying processes [7].
Chen et al investigated the relationship
between the spirality of plain wool knits
and production factors, such as the twist
coef cient, loop length, ber diameter
and the tightness factor. They found that
balanced twist factors for both ply and
single yarns affect fabric spirality. They
also indicated that the tightness fac-
tor has no signi cant effect on spirality,
while increasing the loop length and ber
diameter causes higher spirality [8].
Research on the dimensional and physi-
cal properties of cotton and cotton/span-
dex single jersey fabrics was made by
Marmaralı, in which three different types
of tightness and two different types of
cotton/spandex fabrics were used. At the
end of the research, it was found that the
spirality was greater in loose fabrics and
in non-spandex fabrics. Besides the fact
that the spirality values of cotton/span-
dex fabrics were lower than the accept-
able level of 5º, cotton/spandex fabrics
with spandex in every course had consid-
erably lower spirality values than those
with spandex in alternating courses [9].
In another study by Marmaralı, the spi-
rality of single jersey fabrics knitted from
two plied cotton yarns was studied. She
selected 20 samples of different yarn
twist and plying twist. It was observed
that increasing the twist coef cient of
single yarns increases spirality. In addi-
tion, the twist coef cient of folded yarns
in the S direction resulted in the lowest
spirality [1].
The aim of this study was to test the effect
of fabric weight on the spirality of single
jersey fabrics. Spirality is a common fault
in the circular knitting industry, hence the
causes of spirality have been investigated
for many years; however, there has been
limited study on the relationship between
fabric weight and spirality, therefore this
experimental study explores the spirality
properties of 100% cotton knitted fabrics
with a changing fabric weight.
n Experimental
The ten different fabrics used in the ex-
perimental study were produced by a
conventional textile mill. All the fab-
rics were knitted as single jersey with
Tt 19.7/1 cotton yarns. The reasons for
this choice of fabric are that they are
versatile and used in t-shirt, underwear,
sportswear and baby clothes due to their
easy and fast production, as well as their
cheapness and comfort. The production
method of the yarns used to produce these
fabrics is basically the conventional ring
spinning method. Furthermore, the ring
yarns were differentiated as carded ring
yarns twisted in the S direction, carded
ring yarns twisted in the Z direction and
combed ring yarns. In Table 1, the ber
properties used to produce combed and
carded yarns are given. Characteristics of
the yarns are given in Table 2.
By using a Monarch 9 machine, differ-
ent fabrics were produced. In addition
to nine fabrics, a fabric was knitted us-
ing both carded S yarn and carded Z yarn
in the same fabric. The characteristics
of both carded S and carded Z yarns are
same; only the twist direction is differ-
ent. This type of fabric is known as S-Z
in literature. In the end, there were ten
different fabrics. These fabrics were pro-
duced from 19.7/1 Tt cotton on knitting
machines which had 90 feeders; these
machines turned at 30 r.p.m. Technical
properties of the samples are given in
Table 3. The samples are numbered and
the fabrics are determined according to
these numbers.
The following properties: fabric weight
per square meter, the number of stitches
per unit length (1 cm) and the spirality af-
ter washing and drying were determined
using equipment and devices in the labo-
ratories of the Textile Engineering De-
partment of Gaziantep University in ac-
cordance with the standards.
The following weft knitting machine was
used for the production of the fabrics: a
30” diameter single jersey machine with
90 feeders and a total number of needles
of 2582; its speed was 30 r.p.m. This ma-
chine was employed for the knitting ne-
Table 1. Fiber properties for sample yarn
types.
Fiber Properties Type of yarn
Combed Carded
Micronaire 4.4 - 5.1 3.8 - 4.4
Length, mm 30.14 29.94
Tensile, cN/tex 33.75 33.26
Uniformity 84.4 84.0
% 25 Length, mm 29.19 29.59
% 50 Length, mm 15.17 14.22
SFI 4.4 5.0
Humidity, % 8.5 7.2
Table 2. Characteristics of the yarn used in
knitted samples
Yarn Characteristics Tt 19.7/1
combed
Tt 19.7/1
carded S &
carded Z
Thin places,
±50%/1,000 m 1 11
Thick places,
±50%/1,000 m 12 128
Neps per 1,000 m 23 207
Hairiness 6.6 7.2
Tensile, cN/tex 343 288
Elasticity, % 3.9 3.8
Twist, t.p.m. 791 796
q
=
n
o
r
m
a
l
a
l
e
course
Figure 2.Measuring the spirality angle (θ)
using a protractor.
Figure 1. Marking the wale and course.
83
FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2010, Vol. 18, No. 3 (80)
ness of 28 yarns. The fabrics were dyed
to investigate the dying effect on spiral-
ity. The dying recipe is given in Table 4.
In this study, the fabric weight was de-
termined according to TSE EN 12127,
April 1999: “Textiles-Fabrics-Determi-
nation of mass per unit area using small
samples”, and the number of wales and
courses were determined according to
TSE EN 14971, July 2006: “Textiles-
Knitted Fabrics-Determination of the
number of stitches per unit length and
unit area.” The results of the samples cal-
culated are given in Table 4 [10, 11].
Prior to marking, the samples were pre-
conditioned and then conditioned as
stipulated by ASTM Practice D 1776,
Conditioning Textiles for Testing. Each
specimen was conditioned for at least 4 h
in an atmosphere of 21 ± 1o C (70 ± 2 oF
) and 65 ± 2% RH by laying each speci-
men separately on a screen or perforated
shelf of a conditioning rack [12].
The last and most important procedure
was laundering. The samples were laun-
dered according to AATCC Test Method
179 (1996): Skewness Change in Fabric
and Garment Twist Resulting from Auto-
matic Home Laundering. The washing
machine preferred was of the domestic
type using programme B. The washing
process lasted 2 hours and 15 minutes
at a temperature of 60 °C. The samples
washed were dried in a tumble dryer for
70 minutes at 70 ºC. These laundering
properties were chosen because single
jersey fabrics are generally used in under
garments, and many people wash and dry
such clothes in these laundering condi-
tions. It is important to investigate the
home laundering effect on spirality [13].
After laundering, the samples were dried
over a perforated table in laboratory con-
ditions. Then the spirality was measured
according to the IWS 276 standard test
method. This method is used to measure
the angle of spirality in the structure of
a plain knitted garment following re-
laxation in water. According to this
method, 5 different places are chosen for
each sample. First a wale is marked by
pen, and the course linked wale is then
marked, as seen in Figure 1. By using a
protractor, the angle different from the
normal of the wale is measured, as seen
in Figure 2 [14].
In order to understand the statistical im-
portance of the weight effect on spiral-
ity, a one way ANOVA was performed.
To determine the relation between the
spirality values of gray fabrics and dyed
fabric, Pearson correlation analysis was
used. For this aim, the statistical software
package SPSS 8.0 was used to interpret
the experimental data. All the test re-
sults were assessed at signicance levels
p ≤ 0.05 and p ≤ 0.01.
n Results and discussion
When analysing the spirality values of
the samples, it was decided that the ef-
fect of the machine rotational direction
and yarn twist direction are related to the
effect of both the weight and dyeing on
spirality. Because of the fact that these ef-
fects are similar to each other, there is no
exact separation of these effects. Table 5
shows spirality values of both grey and
dyed samples after laundering.
Effect of fabric weight on spirality
according to yarn production
technology
It can be seen from Figure 3 (see page
84) that increasing the fabric weight re-
sults in decreasing spirality values for all
the fabrics. According to the ANOVA re-
sults, the effect of fabric weight on spiral-
ity was found to be signicant (p≤0.01)
at a 1% signicance level.
By observing the carded Z yarn fabrics
and combed yarn fabric lines in Fig-
ure 3 (see page 84), it can be seen that
the spirality values of these fabrics are
higher than those of carded S yarn fab-
rics. This situation is due to the relation-
ship between the yarn twist direction and
the direction of machine rotation, the
reason for which being that these yarns
are Z twisted and knitted on a Monarch
machine, which rotates in the same rota-
tional direction.
Finally, it must be stated that when study-
ing knitted fabrics, the results are never
directionally proportional because the
structure of knitted fabric is not stable
Table 3. Production and technical properties of the samples.
Samples Yarn Type
Fabric surface weight,
g/m²
Number of wales
per cm
Number of courses
per cm
Gray Dyed Gray Dyed Gray Dyed
1 Carded S 113 129 12 15 16 16
2 Carded S-Z 115 147 15 15 22 17
3 Carded Z 119 130 12 15 17 15
4 Carded S 122 146 12 15 19 17
5 Combed Z 122 147 13 16 18 16
6 Carded S 130 162 12 16 21 18
7 Combed Z 130 159 13 15 21 15
8 Combed Z 132 160 12 15 20 18
9 Carded Z 136 150 12 17 22 18
10 Carded Z 142 154 12 16 22 17
Table 4. Relevant recipes for the sample fabric
Cooking Recipe Dyeing Recipe Washing Recipe
Product Amount, g/l
(%) Product Amount, g/l
(%) Product Amount, g/l
(%)
Cottoclarin Ok 0.6 Syn Red Shf-Gd (0.008) Acetic Acid 80% 0.5
Mollan 129 0.5 Syn Blau Shf-Brn (0.006) Locanit Sw 0.2
Caustic 1 Mollan 129 0.5 Enbrite Cn-1 (0.35)
Hydrogen
Peroxide 1 Imacol C-2G 0.3 Acetic Acid 80% 0.5
Baystabil Db-T 0.5 Sodium Sulfate 30 Belfasin Lx 2.5
Gemperaz Ahp 6 0.4 Sodium
Carbonate 10 Belsoft Tv 2.5
Acetic Acid 0.5 - - - -
Table 5. Spirality values of both grey and
dyed samples.
Samples Spirality (degree)
Gray Dyed
16.6 2.8
20 0.8
313.8 8.0
45.8 3.2
512.8 5.8
62.8 3.0
78.8 4.8
88.0 3.6
910.2 2.6
10 6.4 2.2
FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2010, Vol. 18, No. 3 (80)
84
nicance level. Again when the results of
the dyed fabrics are compared with those
of the gray fabrics, it is evident that the
dyeing process makes the spirality value
decrease.
Effect of the twist direction on
spirality versus the machine rotation
direction
To analyse the effect of the twist direc-
tion on spirality versus the machine ro-
tational direction, Carded S, Combed,
Carded Z and Carded S-Z ring yarns
were used to knit fabrics on a Monarch
circular knitting machine that rotates in
the (Z) direction. And to compare spiral-
ity values, samples were chosen accord-
ing to whether their weight was similar
to that of S-Z fabric. As seen from Fig-
ure 5, for gray fabrics the lowest spirality
values belong to carded S yarn fabrics,
and the highest values to carded Z yarn
fabrics, while carded S-Z fabrics result
and spirality is measured manually with
a protractor; hence spirality results vary
with all altered conditions.
Effect of dyed fabric weight on
spirality according to yarn production
technology
When Figure 4 is examined, it can be
seen that there is no regular effect. By
increasing the weight of carded s yarn
fabric, the spirality value increases for
some weights and decreases for a few
other weights. Therefore, it can be said
that there is no relationship between fab-
ric weight and spirality for dyed fabrics.
At the same time, ANOVA tests were ap-
plied to the spirality values of carded S
yarn fabrics, the results of which show
that it is not signicant (p 0.05) at a
5% signicance level. However, in gray
fabrics, the spirality decreases when the
fabric weight increases. The only result
that can be obtained from the data is that
the spirality decreases by half after the
dyeing process.
The combed yarn line shows that by in-
creasing the fabric weight, the spirality
values decrease. However, to investigate
the statistical effect of weight, ANOVA
tests were performed. From the results
it can be seen that the effect of fabric
weight on spirality for dyed combed fab-
rics is not signicant (p 0.05) at a 5%
signicance level. There is still a lack of
information in the literature concerning
the effect of fabric weight on spirality in
dyed fabrics. According to Tukey Tables,
the fabrics are in the same group, which
means that the weight is not important for
dyed combed yarn fabrics in SPSS.
The line of carded Z yarn fabric dem-
onstrates the effect of weight clearly. At
the same time, the results of the ANOVA
show that the effect of weight on spiral-
ity is signicant (p 0.01) at a 1% sig-
Figure 3. Spirality of grey fabrics versus fabric weight (Machine
rotates in Z direction).
Figure 4. Spirality of dyed fabrics versus fabric weight (Machine
rotates in Z direction).
Figure 5. Effect of the twist direction on the spirality of gray and
dyed fabrics versus the machine rotation direction.
Figure 6. Spirality of dyed fabric and gray fabric (Machine rotates
Z direction); the number of sample according to Table 3.
Fabric surface weight, g/m2Fabric surface weight, g/m2
85
FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2010, Vol. 18, No. 3 (80)
in zero spirality results. If carded S yarns
and carded Z yarns are used course by
course separately during knitting, there is
no moving area for the loop, and hence
spirality values are measured as zero. Fi-
nally, the results as well as the graphics
and statistical analyses were examined,
and it was concluded that the spirality
values of carded S yarn fabrics were less
than those of carded Z yarn fabrics be-
cause the machine rotation direction and
twist direction of carded S yarn are op-
posite each other.
At the same time, ANOVA tests were ap-
plied to the spirality values of the gray
fabrics. The result for a specimen is sig-
nicant (p ≤ 0.01) at a 1% signicance
level.
On the other hand, the spirality values
of all the fabrics, including both grey
and dyed fabrics, were measured and are
graphically shown in Figure 6. It is evi-
dent from Figure 6 that the dyeing pro-
cess makes the spirality value decrease;
however, the decreasing ratio of the spi-
rality values of dyed fabrics is not direct-
ly proportional to the decreasing ratio of
the spirality values of gray fabrics.
It is the structure type of knitted fabrics
that makes them dimensionally unstable.
Knitted fabrics shrink during the dyeing
process, the shrinkage ratio of which is
undetermined. Therefore, due to the ef-
fect of dyeing and continual laundering
processes, the spaces between loops de-
crease and the moving ability of the loops
decreases too. In general, the swelling of
all bers are different from each other,
and if the bers used are different, the spi-
rality values are different from each other
in accordance with the effect of bers.
However, in this study the ber used for
knitting was 100% cotton, whose spiral-
ity differences do not depend on the ber.
But the yarns are different from carded
S, carded Z and combed yarns. The twist
direction of combed yarn is Z too.
At the beginning of this study, because
of the fact that the combed yarn structure
is more regular than that of carded yarn,
it was thought that the spirality values of
combed yarn fabrics would be less than
those of carded Z yarn fabric. However,
according to the results, there is no di-
rect effect of yarn regularity on spirality.
Therefore, the twist direction of yarns
must be taken into account.
n Conclusion
The main aim of this work was to sys-
tematically investigate the effect of fab-
ric weight, yarn production technologies,
the yarn twist direction and dyeing on the
spirality of knitted fabrics. In this study,
the parameters of plain fabrics made from
cotton ring spun yarns were investigated.
The results show that the weight of fab-
ric is very important for all yarn produc-
tion technologies for both grey and dyed
fabrics. The data, graphics and statistical
analysis of the spirality values showed
that increasing the fabric weight decreas-
es spirality; however, the decrease does
not have the same reverse proportionality
for all yarn types. When the results were
investigated, it was seen that the lowest
spirality values belonged to carded S
yarn fabric, whereas the highest belonged
to carded Z yarn fabric. We expected to
nd similar spirality values for carded
Z yarn fabrics and combed yarn fabrics
because the twist directions of both were
the same; our results conrmed this.
It is apparent from the results that the
dyeing process decreases spirality. The
yarns have torsion, which results in spi-
rality in a knitted fabric. If the torsion
decreases the spirality decreases too. The
dyeing process decreases the torsion,
therefore the spirality values of dyed
fabrics are less than those of gray fab-
rics. This decrease was up to half of the
spirality values of grey fabrics. When the
effect of fabric weight on dyed fabrics
was examined, there was no signicant
effect on spirality, the reason for which
may again be torsion. There is no direct
relation between the decreasing values of
spirality and the spaces between loops.
According to the results, the twist direc-
tion is another important parameter for
spirality. The machine’s rotation has an
effect on the yarn tensional force, which
increases spirality. When the results as
well as the graphics and statistical anal-
yses were examined, it was concluded
that the spirality values of S twisted yarn
fabrics were less than those of Z twisted
yarn fabrics, depending on whether the
machine rotation direction is Z.
Finally, it must be stated that when study-
ing single jersey knitted fabrics, there
must always be a margin of error because
of the unbalanced structure of fabric.
Acknowledgments
We greatfully acknowledge SANKO Company
in Gaziantep, Turkey for their help during
this study.
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Vol. 73, No. 5, (2003 May), pp. 421-426.
9. Marmaralı Bayazıt A.; Dimensional and
physical properties of cotton/spandex
single jersey fabrics. Textile Research
Journal, Vol. 72(2), (2003), pp. 164-169.
10. TSE EN 12127 April 1999; “Textiles-Fa-
brics-Determination of mass per unit area
using small samples”.
11. TSE EN 14971 July 2006 “Textiles-Knitted
Fabrics-Determination of number of stit-
ches per unit length and unit area”.
12. ASTM Practice D 1776, “Conditioning
Textiles for Testing”.
13. AATCC Test Method 179 (1996), “Skew-
ness Change in Fabric and Garment
Twist Resulting from Automatic home
Laundering”.
14. Woolmark Test Method TM 276, 2000,
Mayıs, “Spirality of plain knitted fabrics”.
Received 15.04.2008 Reviewed 02.11.2009
... Knitted fabrics are an important part of the textile sector owing to having an elastic and light structure, producing single jersey fabrics easily and quickly, having a lighter weight and lower production cost, suitable for printing. On the other hand, in addition to their advantages, these fabrics have some quality problems such as dimensional change and deformation (Değirmenci and Topalbekiroğlu, 2010). As a result, both the aesthetic and functional performances of knitted fabrics like displacement or shifting of seams, mismatched patterns, sewing difficulties, etc. are affected by spirality so it is tried to be avoided by different kinds of yarn-related methods (Tao et al, 1997). ...
... As a result, both the aesthetic and functional performances of knitted fabrics like displacement or shifting of seams, mismatched patterns, sewing difficulties, etc. are affected by spirality so it is tried to be avoided by different kinds of yarn-related methods (Tao et al, 1997). Low-twist-lively yarns, balanced plied yarns and using S-twist and Z-twist yarns respectively at feeders are some examples of avoiding these problems (Değirmenci and Topalbekiroğlu, 2010). Also, the twist amount of the yarn is influenced by the arrangement of the fibers in the yarn and it changes depending to yarn spinning type. ...
... Interlock fabrics are manufactured on circular knitting which has a rotational movement and it is in a tubular form which makes the fabric tend to slide. Due to this slide formation, wales and courses are angularly distorted from their ideal right angle (Değirmenci and Topalbekiroğlu, 2010). The main reason of spirality is the unbalanced and the residual torque in the yarn. ...
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In this study, it was intended to investigate the effects of yarn spinning systems as well as yarn twist direction on some comfort and spirality performance properties of the fabrics. For this aim, interlock knitted fabrics made of 100% viscose yarns were produced with different spinning systems namely, ring, compact and siro at two twist directions; S and Z. The results indicate that the fabrics made of compact yarn possessed high water vapor and high air permeability values, but lesser vertical wicking values than ring yarn fabrics. However, both of the permeability values of the compact yarn fabrics markedly reduced when yarn twist direction was S. Generally, irrespective of yarn twist direction, the siro yarn fabrics exhibited better permeability but lesser wickability values as compared to ring yarn fabrics. Ring yarn fabrics displayed relatively highest wickability values and spirality percentages as compared to made from siro and compact yarns. In addition, samples produced from Z-twist yarn had higher air permeability values as well as water vapor permeability values but their vertical wicking values and spirality percentages were lesser than that of S-twisted ones. To sum up, it can be inferred that the spinning system has a profound influence on structural parameters of spun yarns.
... The quality of the final product is a prime focus for both the manufacturer and the buyer. The visual sensation is a very important factor to decide the quality of the finished product as it comes first than the feel and wears experience (Balcı and Oğulata 2009;Chakraborty, Kaur, and Chakraborty 2019;Değirmenci and Topalbekiroğlu 2010). ...
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Textile finishing is the last stage to improve fabric aesthetic characteristic and impart functional properties, but at the same time it can produce some undesirable effects like shade change and variation in mechanical properties of fabric. These shade variations are undesirable and create major losses for the textile industry. These losses are related to rework and reprocessing of dyed fabric after finishing. To cope this issue, dyers are making decision on trial and error bases, therefore, this work has been conducted to quantify the shade change value. In this research work, an artificial intelligence-based system is developed to foresee the behavior of color before finishing. Color, shade percentage, finish type, finish concentration, and 31 reflectance values in the visible range 400–700 nm were selected as input for the training of artificial neural networks. The five networks were trained individually for the Δ color coordinates (△L, △a, △b, △C and △h). The networks were tested and cross-validated with 85% accuracy. The developed models were executed for the predictions of △L, △a, △b, △C, and △h with mean absolute errors 0.0765, 0.0869, 0.1528, 0.0829 and 0.1626, respectively. Mean absolute error values are showing a close correlation between actual and predicted values.
... According to Banerjee and Alaiban (Banerjee and Alaiban 1988), fabric mercerization reduces loop asymmetry more than yarn mercerization and thereby influences resultant spirality. Another study revealed that spirality decreases with the increasing areal density of fabric and the completion of the dyeing process (Değirmenci and Topalbekiroğlu 2010). The addition of crosslinking agents in the finishing line contributes to setting and reduction of the spirality in knitted fabric (Ahmed et al. 2019). ...
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Weft knit fabrics are popular for traditional wear because of their elastic and light structures, gentle smoothness, low production costs, and high productivity. However, due to asymmetrical loop formation, spirality causes serious dimensional problems in single jersey fabrics (SJF). This study investigates the effects of various parameters on spirality, including yarn count, yarn tension, tightness factor, stitch length, fabric weight per unit area, machine speed, needle gauge, and number of feeders. All the sample fabrics were knitted with Z-twisted, combed, 100% cotton yarns and went through a scouring, bleaching, and whitening process before being dried in the same conditions. Fabric spirality was found to increase as stitch length, number of feeders, yarn count, and twists per unit length in constituent yarn increased whereas the tightness factor and needle gauge, on the other hand, had opposite effects on spirality. The test results were analyzed statistically, and a significant impact was discovered.
... Tao et al. [16] studied that yarn twist factor and fabric tightness factor have a correlation with fabric spirality. Later on, Değirmenci et al. [17] examined the single jersey fabric's spirality considering twist direction, fabric weight and dyeing and found that spirality decreases with the increase of the fabric weight. However, the fabric weight is not affected by spirality in the dyed fabric. ...
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Weft knitted single jersey (S/J) and lycra single jersey (lycra S/J) fabrics are popular in the textile industry for their lightweight and excellent physical and dimensional properties. However, the property investigation is required to ensure the quality before starting bulk production with any fabrics. The main aim of this study is to compare the physical and dimensional properties of S/J and lycra S/J with considering the manufacturing parameters in order to reduce the manufacturing time as well as cost. The physical properties such as grey GSM (Gram per square meter), finish GSM, bursting strength, color fastness to washing and rubbing; dimensional properties i.e., shrinkage and spirality of S/J and lycra S/J fabric have been investigated and compared while the manufacturing parameters stitch length, machine diameter, machine gauge, number of needles, width etc. and finishing parameters were same. In this current research, the internationally approved methods are performed for example ISO to test fabric GSM, spirality and color fastness to wash; ASTM for bursting strength test; AATCC to measure the shrinkage and color fastness to rubbing or crocking. During the investigation, it is observed that there is a significant difference between grey GSM, finish GSM and bursting strength for both of the fabrics. Moreover, the shrinkage property of lycra S/J fabric is better than S/J fabric. In terms of color fastness to rubbing and spirality, slight differences are found too. However, in case of color fastness to wash, both fabrics exhibited similar behavior.
... Bahar [21]. Degirmenci and Topalbekiroglu described the effects on the spirality of single jersey fabrics of dyeing, weight and the twist direction [22]. Tavanai et al. investigated the effects of time, dye concentration, and temperature on the color yield in polyester dyeing with disperses dyes [23]. ...
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The aim of this study was to investigate and compare the effect of process variables on the color and physical characteristics of viscose and cotton knitted fabrics. The effect of dye concentration, salt concentration, soda ash, dyeing time, dyeing temperature, material to liquor ratio, different dye class, fabric GSM, washing time, washing temperature, and enzyme concentration were investigated in terms of color strength (K/S value), color fastness, and pilling resistance. The K/S value of the colored fabric was calculated using UV visible spectrophotometer SF 650 TM and the pilling resistance of the enzyme-treated fabrics was tested by an ICI pilling tester. The results show that dye concentration has the greatest and key effect on the K/S value of viscose and cotton fabric. However, viscose fabric shows a higher K/S value than that of cotton fabric in similar dyeing conditions. Furthermore, the multi-functional dyes demonstrate the upmost K/S value than the vinyl sulphone dyes. Moreover , it was found that enzymatic treatment improved the pilling grade of cotton fabric, whereas no enzymatic effect on viscose fabric was observed.
... Cotton knitted fabrics are quite popular in many sportswear, active wear and casual wear because of their excellent comfort and fit owing to their good air permeability and better stretch and recovery properties as compared to woven fabrics. The reasons behind the wider uses of knitted articles are excellent elasticity, light weight, low cost, smooth surface etc [1][2]. Manufacturing of knitted fabrics involves intermeshing of yarn loops where one loop is drawn through another loop to form a stitch [3]. ...
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The effect of finishing machine parameters on dimensional stability of single lacoste cotton knitted fabric was studied in this research. The dimensional properties of the single lacoste cotton knitted fabric such as shrinkage and spirality were investigated. All tests were carried out according to the ISO standards. In this research effect of dryer machine, stenter machine and compactor machine parameters on dimensional stability of single lacoste cotton knitted fabric were evaluated. The surface analysis of single lacoste cotton knitted fabrics were examined by scanning electron microscopy (SEM) on the samples of after drying, stentering and compacting respectively. The surface analysis of single lacoste cotton knitted fabric was also investigated by SEM on the softener treated and softener untreated samples after compacting process. From the result it was observed that fabrics show lowest shrinkage in both length and width wise and spirality for drying process than the stentering process. It was also observed that length wise and width wise shrinkage and spirality of the fabrics become gradually better by increasing the overfeed % of both dryer and compactor machine. On the other hand length wise shrinkage of the fabrics become successively lower and width wise shrinkage of the fabrics become gradually higher by increasing the diameter of both dryer and compactor machine. But stretching of both dryer and compactor machine diameter has no significant influence on spirality. It was also noticed that width wise shrinkage of the fabric becomes gradually better and spirality becomes gradually higher by increasing the felt tension of the compactor machine.
... Viscose is the oldest and most absorbent as well as highly reactive fibres among all the cellulose fibres. The knitted fabrics made of viscose fibres are very popular for apparel wears due to lower price and their exclusive quality characteristics like rich brilliant colour shade, higher moisture absorbent, breathable, comfortable to wear, soft to the skin, elasticity, drape, wrinkle resistance and easy-care properties over cotton knitted fabrics and woven fabrics (Degirmenci & Topalbekiroglu, 2010;Hossain, Hossain, Choudhury, Bakar, & Uddin, 2014;Hussain, Safdar, Nazir, & Iqbal, 2013;Jamshaid, Hussain, & Malik, 2013;Shaikh, Chaudhari, & Varma, 2012). ...
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The main purpose of this study was to find the optimal dyeing conditions as well as predict the colour strength of viscose/lycra blended knitted fabrics by using Taguchi method. The controllable factors such as dye concentration, temperature, time, alkali concentration, salt concentration and liquor ratio have been used as input variables and colour strength of the fabric as response variable for the construction of Taguchi model. An L25 orthogonal array design has been chosen and conducted 25 experiments with three runs for each experiment. The optimal parameters in the dyeing process have been identified as dye concentration 9%, Time 60 minutes, temperature 750C, salt concentration 50g/l, alkali concentration 14g/l and liquor ratio 1:8. Taguchi mathematical model built in this study has been confirmed by confirmation experiment as well as unseen experimental data. The mean absolute error and coefficient of determination (R2) were found to be 3.48% and 0.88, respectively, from the actual and predicted colour strength. It is concluded that Taguchi method is efficient on the optimisation and prediction of fabric colour strength in non-linear complex dyeing.
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In this study, knitted fabrics were produced from the yarns obtained by using different yarn production methods (ring, compact, and open-end rotor) with different loop length values. Spirality and thickness values of these fabrics were measured according to the relevant standards. These values were analyzed to estimate before production with the help of the SPSS 22.0 package program and equations have been established. Consequently, according to the equations, it was seen that, there is a highly correlated linear relationship between spirality and yarn count, wale density, and course density. Also, there is a linear relationship between fabric thickness and yarn count, fabric weight, and course density. The reason for using yarns obtained from different yarn production techniques is to increase the validity of the equations.
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Finishes are applied to improve the look, performance and feel of the fabrics. Crease recovery finishes form a three-dimensional crosslinking network on the surface of the cotton knitted fabric to control its dimensions. However, application of the crease recovery finishes induces the shade change in the dyed fabrics. This paper presents the phenomenon of shade change for different colors and shade percentages and use of artificial intelligence-based prediction system to foresee the behavior of shade after finish application. The individual neural networks were trained for the prediction of color of the finished samples, which are delta color coordinates values (△L, △a, △b, △c & △h). The input variables, i.e. reflectance values (Visible ranges 400–700 nm) of dyed samples, color, shade percentage and finish concentration were used to train the networks. The trained neural networks were validated through ‘cross validation’ and ‘hold out’ techniques. The shade prediction model was developed by combining the individually trained artificial neural networks and the developed model can predict the shade change with more than 90% accuracy. This will help the dyers to predict shade change prior to dyeing & finishing and they will adjust their recipe accordingly, which can ultimately reduce the rework and reprocessing in the textile wet processing industries.
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The spirality of single-jersey cotton fabrics knitted from plied yarns at the same tightness factor is discussed. An experiment is carried out to investigate the effect of yarn twist factor (singles and plied yarns) on fabric spirality. The spirality angles increase with an increase in the twist factor of the singles yarns in the plied yarns. However, as the twist factor of the plied yarns increases in the S direction, there is a sharp decrease in fabric spirality. Using these results it is possible to predict the level of spirality before knitting starts. Ring-spun yarns are used and the fabrics are produced on a Stoll hand knitting machine.
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This paper is the first part of a series reporting on the recent development of a yarn modification process to produce torque-balanced singles spun yarns. Taking advantage of the core-sheath structure of unconventionally spun yarns, we have developed a yarn modification process and applied it to singles yarns spun by rotor spinning, producing torque-free singles yarns from 100% cotton fibers. The spirality of the resultant single jersey knit fabrics is greatly reduced or, in some cases, completely eliminated. Properties and performance characteristics of both parent and modified yarns, as well as their resultant fabrics, are evaluated, including yarn tensile properties, surface properties, handle, air permeability, burst strength, and pilling resistance of the fabrics.
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Spirality arising from loop distortion in single-jersey knitted fabrics is discussed. Test methods for measuring fabric spirality in knitted fabrics are outlined. Results of an experimental investigation are statistically analyzed considering the effects of yarn/fabric construction factors on the spirality behavior of laboratory produced single-jersey fabrics. The study reveals that the steady-state loop shape for the washed/tumbledried knitted specimens is not unique. Accordingly, the construction factors considered in the statistical analyses are yarn linear density, yarn twist factor, fabric tightness factor, and fabric loop shape. The analyses reveal the importance of the yarn twist factor as well as the fabric tightness factor in promoting fabric spirality. Multiple linear regression equations of practical importance for predicting fabric spirality are derived from the experimental results.
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In this study, the dimensional and physical properties of cotton/spandex single jersey fabrics are investigated and the results compared with fabrics knitted from otton alone. The loop length and amount of spandex are usted to determine the dimensions and properties of the knits. It is apparent that as the amount of spandex increases loop length values remain nearly the same and the course and wale spacing values decrease. Further more, because spandex-containing fabrics tend to tighter, the weight and thickness of the fabrics are higher but air permeability, pilling grade, and spirality are lower.
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Spirality is a particularly serious problem for plain knitted fabrics due to asymmetric loops. This study investigates the relationship between the spirality of plain wool knits and various variables. The experimental results show that the twist factor of two-ply wool yarn is the most important factor influencing fabric spirality. Loop length and fiber diameter also show significant effects. In general, increasing the twist factor of two-ply yarn, loop length, and fiber diameter increases the angle of spirality. The experimental results demonstrate that relaxation treatment of fabrics in water decreases the angle of spirality. The experimental data also lead to the derivation of empirical equations linking the angle of spirality to the twist factor of two-ply yarn, loop length, and fiber diameter in both the dry relaxed and simulated industrial relaxed states.
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We have studied the effect of yarn spinning technology of the spirality of jersey fabrics in the dry and fully relaxed states for 100% cotton and 50/50 cotton/polyester blend yarns. From this study, we have concluded that 50/50 blend yarns produce less spirality than 100% cotton yarns. Furthermore, it seems that each spinning technology influences the degree of spirality in fabrics. For all practical purposes, spirality was virtually eliminated for some of the 50/50 blend air jet and rotor spun yarns that were used.
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We have investigated spirality in both dry and fully relaxed jersey fabrics produced from a series of relaxed spun yams. From this study, it is clear that spirality depends on feed density, machine cut, and loop shape, but the magnitude of spirality can be offset by the selection of yarn twist direction. In addition, we have shown that a reduction in yam "torque" can only partially reduce fabric spirality, but the use of plied yams and plaiting techniques may completely eliminate it. In three-end fleece fabrics, spirality can be substantially reduced by balancing the twist direction in the face and binder yams. We have also developed a theory to explain the mechanism of loop inclination and loop rotation in single knit fabrics.
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The length and width shrinkages, skewness, spirality and moisture content of three weft knitted cotton structures, plain single jersey, interlock and lacoste, were determined at regular intervals during tumble drying. Significant length and width shrinkages occurred in all three structures with the amount of shrinkage increasing rapidly in plain single jersey and lacoste as their moisture contents fell below 30 per cent. Distortion was less affected by tumble drying. An attempt was made to isolate the effects of heat and agitation during tumble drying. It has been demonstrated that similar patterns of shrinkage and distortion occur whether heat is applied during tumble drying or not. The tumbling action in a tumble drier has the greatest influence on the dimensional stability and distortion of weft knitted cotton fabrics.
Dyeing and the Twist Direction on the Spirality of Single Jersey Fabrics: Department of textile engineering
  • Effects Of Weight
Effects of Weight, Dyeing and the Twist Direction on the Spirality of Single Jersey Fabrics: Department of textile engineering, MPSTME of Gaziantep, Turkey.