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Elastane fabrics—A tool for stretch applications in sports

Authors:
  • PSG POLYTECHNIC COLLEGE, COIMBATORE, INDIA

Abstract

Elastane fibres show rubber like behavior and are highly stretchable. Basically these fibres contain polyurethane bonds. Elastic fabrics are an important route to achieve comfort by freedom of movement for body fitted with sports and outdoor wear. Elastic garments used in athletics and sports may improve the athlete's performance in cycling, swimming and so on. A great deal of research is reported on elastane structure, yarn formation and fabric production. Testing of elastane and its fabric has given new dimensions in terms of results. New attempts are being made to produce the yarn with blends and subsequent conversion into woven and knits, in order to improve garment elastic bahaviour and productivity. This paper reports the elastane fibre characteristics, elastane yarn production method, new attempts in yarn production, commercial ways of fabric manufacturing techniques, fabric properties, new testing methods to test the elastic products and its application.
Indian Journal of .Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 36, September 2011, pp. 300-307
Elastane fabrics – A tool for stretch applications in sports
M.Senthilkumar a
Department of Textile Technology, PSG Polytechnic College, Coimbatore 641 004, India
N Anbumani
Department of Textile Technology, PSG College of Technology, Coimbatore 641 004, India
and
J Hayavadana
Department of Textile Technology, College of Technology, Osmania University, Hyderabad 500 007, India
Received 27 July 2010; revised received and accepted 28 October 2010
Elastane fibres show rubber like behavior and are highly stretchable. Basically these fibres contain polyurethane bonds.
Elastic fabrics are an important route to achieve comfort by freedom of movement for body fitted with sports and outdoor wear.
Elastic garments used in athletics and sports may improve the athlete’s performance in cycling, swimming and so on. A great
deal of research is reported on elastane structure, yarn formation and fabric production. Testing of elastane and its fabric has
given new dimensions in terms of results. New attempts are being made to produce the yarn with blends and subsequent
conversion into woven and knits, in order to improve garment elastic bahaviour and productivity. This paper reports the elastane
fibre characteristics, elastane yarn production method, new attempts in yarn production, commercial ways of fabric
manufacturing techniques, fabric properties, new testing methods to test the elastic products and its application.
Keywords: Core-spun yarn, Elastane, Elastic recovery, Elastic yarn, Relaxation, Spandex
1 Introduction
Elastane fibres, better known under their trade
names such as lycra, spandex and dorlastan, represent
a further high point in the development of man-made
fibres. Invented in 1937 in Germany, elastane has
properties not found in nature, the most important
having an extraordinary elasticity. Spandex is a
generic term used to designate elastomeric fibres
which have an extension-at-break greater than 200 %
and also show rapid recovery when tension is
released. These fibres exhibit rubber like behavior
with high reversible extension as high as 400 - 800 %.
The name Spandex is an anagram of the word
expands and is known as Elastane.
In chemical terms, elastane is a synthetic linear
macromolecule with a long chain containing at least
85 % of segmented polyurethane along with the
alternating hard and soft segments linked by urethane
bonds – NH CO O –. Soft chain segment gives
elasticity (recoverable stretch ability)1 to fibre, while
hard chain segment gives molecular interaction force
to fibre and which ensures a certain level of strength
of fibre and long term stability.
Elastane is used in all areas where a high degree of
permanent elasticity is required, for example, in
tights, sportswear, swimwear, corsetry, and in woven
and knitted fabrics. Elastane is a prerequisite for
fashionable or functional apparel which is intended to
cling to the body, while at the same time remaining
comfortable.
Spandex (approved by Federal Trade Commission,
USA) is a man-made, organic synthetic base fibre. It
could be produced from dry spun, reaction spun and
melt spun techniques 2. In general, spandex fibres are
spun from polyurethane spinning solution. The
spinning process is conducted using dry method by
blowing hot air through the spun filaments with
simultaneous evaporation of the solvent from them 3.
Kielty et al.4 have explained that the structure of
elastic fibres is extracellular matrix macromolecules
comprising an elastane core surrounded by a covering
of fibrillin-rich microfibrils. The structure of elastic
fibres is complex because they have multiple
components, tightly regulated developmental
depositions, a multi-step hierarchical assembly and
——————
a To whom all the correspondence should be addressed.
E-mail: cmsenthilkumar@yahoo.com
SENTHILKUMAR et al.: ELASTANE FABRICS – A TOOL FOR STRETCH APPLICATIONS IN SPORTS
301
unique biochemical functions. Lee et al. 5 studied the
internal structure and orientation behavior of two
series of elastane fibres, which were made with
different spinning methods using different soft and
hard segment types by Fourier Transform Infrared
Spectroscopy (FTIR), polarizing light microscopy
and Instron. The results conclude that dry spun
fibres exhibit better elastic recovery than melt spun
fibres. The mechanical hysteresis gave consistent
results with those of FTIR and birefringence
measurements.
Spandex fibre is used in both woven and knit forms
for sports underclothes and tights wear. Spun spandex
fibre is usually used in weaving for fabrication of
ribbons, tapes, medical stockings, and bandages 3.
It can be noted that worldwide spandex
consumption and growth is 30 - 40 % per year and is
expected to grow high. Asian countries have a share
of nearly 60 % of world consumption and contribute
25% of world wide spandex growth per year 6.
Spandex is readily compatible with other common
fibres including nylon, polyester, acetate,
polypropylene, acrylic, cotton, wool and rayon7.
In general, breaking strength of spandex fibre is
0.7 g / den and elongation before break ranges from
520 % to 610 %. Spandex fibre is white in colour and
dyeable with disperse and acid dyes. It has good
resistance to chemicals and withstands the action of
perspiration. It may degrade and turn yellow when it
is treated with chlorine. It can be washed at 60 0C and
tumble dried at 80 0C. The fibre has moisture regain
of about 0.3 % with melting point 250 0C, but starts
sticking at 1750 C (ref. 8).
Walter 7 listed the following as potential
developments in spandex, In order to enhance the
commercial value of the products, following may be
used (i) completely chlorine resistant polyether
spandex for swimwear (ii) chemically modified
spandex (iii) union dyeable spandex, and (iv) high
modulus spandex (with medical applications).
This paper reviews about the elastane fibre
characteristics, elastane yarn production method, new
attempts in yarn production, commercial ways of
fabric manufacturing techniques, fabric properties,
new testing methods to test the elastic products and its
application. Elastic garments have tremendous scope
in the field of tight fit sportswear application.
2 Commercial Methods of Elastane Yarn Production
Elastane yarns contribute significant elastic
properties to all types of fabrics like circular knits,
warp knits, flat knits, wovens, nonwovens, lace and
narrow fabrics 9. The elastane yarn preparation is
discussed hereunder.
2.1 Spandex Core Spun Yarn
Singh 10 reported production of two way stretch
woven fabrics for apparel use, which can be
efficiently produced from natural fibres by using
elastic core-spun yarns. He found that the fabric
structure influences stretch characteristics. An open
weave fabric offers higher stretch than a close weave.
The thread count distribution significantly varies
fabric stretch. The finished fabric stretch reduces with
an increasing ends and / or picks per inch 10.
Generally, core-spun and siro-spun yarns are
produced on regular ring spinning machines with
special feeder rollers and guiding devices 11. These
spun yarns are difficult to produce with better
covering effect.
In order to produce better cover effect to fine
elastomeric yarn and best dynamic elastic recovery,
Ching Iuan and Hsiao-Ying 12 studied the cross-
sections of the core-spun yarns produced from three
different fineness of spandex and the migration of the
spandex inside the core yarn. They optimised the
spandex fineness, draw ratio and twist factor to
achieve the better covering effect.
Covered elastic yarns are usually wrapped with
hard fibres like nylon or rayon. Generally, two layers
of the hard fibres are wound on the elastomeric yarn
in opposite directions while the spandex is moving
through the covering machine under controlled
tension 13.
Core-spun yarn, covered yarn, elasto twist yarn,
two for one twisted yarn, air- covered yarn and siro –
spun yarn are the common elastic yarn production
methods and these yarns are used to produce outer
wear, leisure wear and sportswear 11, 13.
2.2 Elastane Plated Cotton Fabric
Bayazit 14 produced the spandex plated cotton
single jersey knitted fabric, as plating technique is an
easy way to produce stretch properties in the fabric.
Spandex bare yarn is directly back plated with hard
yarn in knitting machine itself, whereas stretch yarn
produced by core-spun technique can be further
converted into either woven or knitted fabrics.
Egon 15 studied the production feasibility of core-
spun yarn consisting of modal and lyocell with
spandex yarns of different counts. The study was
aimed to improve the thermo physiological comfort of
INDIAN J. FIBRE TEXT. RES., SEPTEMBER 2011
302
the wearer. Ke and Zhang 16 developed the moisture
comfort elastic plated fabric with cotton yarn outside,
superfine polypropylene fibre inside and lycra at
center. The fabric was produced on a special feed
weft knitting machine.
3 Modified Elastic Yarns and Fabrics
New dimensions explored in the manufacture of
elastic yarns and fabrics in order to enhance the
product value and productivity are discussed
hereunder.
3.1 Modification in Ring Frame
Lou et al. 17 produced a polyester core-spun yarn
containing spandex fibres using a self-designed,
multi-section drawing frame and a ring spinning
frame. The mechanical properties of the core-spun
elastic yarns were examined under various processing
conditions. They optimized the draw ratio to enhance
the breaking tenacity and elongation of the core-spun
elastic yarns.
3.2 Modified Rotor Spinner
Jia-Horng et al. 18 developed a novel method to
prepare highly elastic complex yarns using a self
designed multi-sectional draw frame and rotor twister.
They examined the mechanical properties of the
elastic complex yarns by optimizing the machine
speed and twist to acquire higher breaking strength of
the yarn.
3.3 Air Vortex Spinner with Special Device
Hüseyin and Sukriye 19 produced core-spun yarns
containing spandex using air vortex spinner with
special attachments for bare spandex feed. The yarn
properties were compared with normal vortex-spun
yarn. They concluded that the yarn properties of
elastic core-spun vortex yarns are significantly
affected by spandex and yarn count. Core-spun vortex
yarns containing spandex showed lower tenacity and
higher breaking elongation than normal vortex-spun
yarn.
3.4 Woolen Spinning with Special Device
Min et al. 20 stated that the spandex can be used on
modified worsted spinning system to produce spandex
core-spun yarn and studied the influence of spandex
drafting ratio and yarn twist factor on tensile
properties and elasticity of the core-spun yarn. The
yarn twist and spandex drawing ratio have influence
on yarn properties. Elastic recovery of core-spun
yarns increases with increasing the yarn twist and
spandex draw ratio.
4 Elastic Fabric
There exists a number of ways to produce elastic
fabrics. The elasticity of the fabrics is much lower
than that of the elastomeric fibre because of the
restrictions of the hard fibre structure. Stress and
strain curves show a combination of the elastic power
of the fibre and the effect of the hard fibre assembly
recovering from the compression13. Elastane yarns are
very efficient in this field of sports application. It is
sufficient to provide the desired stretch properties of a
woven and knitted fabric even with lower percentages
like 2 – 3 % of elastane 11.
Normally, elastic knitted fabrics in grey stage are
relaxed and further the fabric is heat set, bleached,
dyed and compacted in the wet processing treatment.
For normal fabric, heat setting is not recommended.
Heat setting process is the key step to lock the desired
fabric properties like width, weight, stretch and power
21. Spandex inter molecules are broken and reformed,
and the polymer chains can rearrange during heat
setting. If the spandex in the fabric is under stretch
during heat setting, the chains disorient and the
retractive force reduces. The fibre fineness is reduced
to that at the extension during heat setting, and the
similar process with steam can reduce the fibre
fineness in core-spun yarns 13. Heat setting is
preferably done early in the textile process rather than
at the end in order to reduce yellowing on drying. But
it can be done anytime if the time and temperature of
heat setting are optimized 21. Under-setting results in
eventual loss of fabric dimensions, while over heat
setting lowers power and can discolor the spandex
and companion fibres. Relaxation treatment is used to
reduce potential distortion or deformation of the
fabric from residual uneven tension. It develops the
power and recovery of the fabric. The fabric should
be relaxed prior to heat setting to avoid rope marks
and puckering during dyeing, and ensure good
dimensional stability in the final garment 21.
Bleaching agents such as hydrogen peroxide can be
used for elastic fabric. Chlorine containing bleaches
may cause yellowing in spandex fibres and hence
should be avoided. Disperse dyes and acid dyes have
good affinity to elastane and no affinity with direct
dyes 22. Right matching of spandex and hard yarn dye
shades in the fabric may not be necessary. Because,
generally the spandex is hidden in the fabric 5.
SENTHILKUMAR et al.: ELASTANE FABRICS – A TOOL FOR STRETCH APPLICATIONS IN SPORTS
303
Mercerisation process is also used to improve dye
ability of the elastic fabric 22.
Compacting process is used to physically rearrange
the yarn geometry in the fabric. In woven fabrics,
weft yarns can be forced close together, thus
preshrinking the fabrics. In the knit fabrics, the loops
can be rearranged to overcome distortion in the length
to width caused by stretching tensions 23.
4.1 Dimensional and Physical Characteristics of Elastic Fabrics
Bayazit 14 investigated the dimensional properties
of spandex plated cotton single jersey fabrics and
compared the results with fabrics knitted from cotton
alone. The loop length and amount of spandex are
used to determine the dimensional properties of the
knits. It is apparent that as the amount of spandex
increases, loop length values remain nearly the same
and the course and wale spacings decrease. Spandex
containing fabrics tend to be tighter. The weight and
thickness of the fabrics are higher, but spirality is
lower. Spandex containing fabrics were lower in air
permeability. Further, he claimed that the power of
recovery in single jersey fabrics that have been
stretched is generally inadequate, and therefore
spandex is increasingly used to impart a greater level
of stretch and more dimensional recovery can be
achieved with cotton alone.
Chathura and Bok 24 studied the dimensional
stability of core-spun cotton / spandex single jersey
structures with high, medium and low tightness
factors, under dry, wet and full relaxation conditions.
Results were compared with those of similar fabrics
knitted from 100% cotton. Course, wale and stitch
density found to increase with progression of
relaxation and higher values were reported with
cotton/spandex structures. Course, wale and stitch
density were linearly and positively correlated with
inverse of loop length. They concluded that yarns
with elastomeric components increase tightness
factors, giving better dimensional stability to single
jersey fabrics. Yarn linear density was found to be
insignificant to treatments.
Chathura and Bok 25 also studied the dimensional
characteristics of 1 × 1 rib knitted structures made
from cotton/spandex core-spun yarns. Cotton/spandex
rib structures assumed more stable state after 10th
laundering cycle under the experimental conditions.
But, the same was not in case of normal cotton fabric.
Fabric relaxation procedures had a significant effect
on dimensional characteristics of cotton/spandex and
cotton rib structures. However, area shrinkage
variations was unaffected by treatment. They also
analysed the dimensional characteristics of core-spun
cotton / spandex interlock structures with high,
medium and low tightness factors under dry, wet and
full relaxation conditions. Results were compared
with those for similar knitted fabrics from 100%
cotton. Dimensional characteristics of core-spun
cotton/spandex and cotton samples were measured by
varying course, wale and stitch densities under dry,
wet and full relaxation conditions. Higher U % was
reported with cotton / spandex interlock fabric than
with 100% cotton fabric. Under full relaxation, cotton
/ spandex shows the U % values with lower CV%.
Stitch density growth is linearly correlated with
tightness factor at machine off state during relaxation
states. Cotton / spandex interlock structures show
more prominent co-relationship with their tightness
factors on their dimensional parameters.
Elizabeth et al. 26 investigated the effect of drying
on the aesthetics and performance of stretch fabrics
to determine the best care procedures for cotton /
spandex blends. For 100% cotton and 92: 8 cotton /
spandex fabrics, the amount of stretch was roughly
twice as much when evaluated by the ASTM D6614
method. For 100% cotton samples, a high correlation
between the amount of stretch in both D6614 and
D2594 test methods was noticed. When stretch fabric
(92:8 cotton/spandex) was tested, no correlation was
found between the stretch results of the two methods.
In addition, D6614 method showed that the fabrics
respond well beyond their yield points and no
correlation is noticed between growth results. This
raises question about the test method to be used in
industry.
Tezel et al. 27 studied the dimensional and physical
properties of cotton/spandex single jersey fabrics
using plating technique. The effects of spandex brand
and the tightness factor of the cotton and spandex
yarn on dimensional and physical properties of
cotton/spandex single jersey fabrics were
investigated. In order to examine effects of the
tightness factor of cotton and spandex yarns, fabric
samples were knitted by feeding both cotton and
spandex yarns with three different adjustments of
positive yarn feeding mechanisms to knit tight,
medium, and loose cotton/spandex single jersey
fabrics. Four different spandex yarns were used. The
fabrics knitted with spandex yarns with largest tension
values under a constant draw ratio gave highest
weight, courses per cm, stitches per cm and thickness,
INDIAN J. FIBRE TEXT. RES., SEPTEMBER 2011
304
and lower air permeability and bursting strength.
Spandex yarns with similar elongation % also
followed similar trend. Increase in thickness and
decrease in fabric width with shorter loop length is
mainly due to greater stretched strength.
4.2 Comfort Characteristics of Elastic Fabrics
Verdu et al. 28 analysed effect on comfort by
introducing DOW XLA TM fibre in woven polyester /
cotton fabrics meant for professional wear. The
comfort parameters such as thermal, moisture, tactile
and pressure sensations were analyzed. A fabric
elasticized with polybutylene terephalate (PBT) elastic
fibre was also studied for comparison purpose. Further,
the effect of fabric mechanical and comfort properties
on repeated laundry washes was also investigated. The
results indicated that the use of new fibre inside a core-
spun yarn to elasticize fabrics for professional wear
provided additional comfort than non elasticized
fabrics. The thermo physiological and sensorial
comfort of fabrics was found to be invariant with
washing cycles. However, the differences in
performance were noticed on comparison with
traditional non-elasticized and PBT elasticized fabrics.
Salopek et al. 29 studied the influence of different
yarns (100 % cotton and 100% cotton elastane) and
the finishing treatment on physical and mechanical
properties (KES - F system) of knitted fabrics. The
presence of elastane component in single jersey
fabrics knitted from cotton affects the properties of
knitted fabrics like increase in tensile resilience on
termination of force, shear rigidity, bending rigidity
and compressional energy during compression.
Among the investigated yarn characteristics, yarn
evenness significantly affected geometrical
roughness. Finishing process (optical bleaching,
softening and dyeing) lowered tensile energy during
stretching, bending rigidity, compressional energy and
geometrical roughness while it significantly increases
fabric thickness and compressional resilience.
Bartels 30 reported that the usage of elastic yarns and
their fabrics has some limitations. They cannot absorb
moisture within their structure and are non wettable by
liquid sweat, thus reducing the thermo physiological
wear comfort. These yarns are very flat and smooth,
which reduces the skin sensorial wear comfort. But in
the literature, there is no mention about any
experimental trials to arrive to such decision.
4.3 Elastic Properties of Elastic Fabrics
In ancient days, mercerisation and texturisation
processes were used to improve the elasticity of
woven fabrics. Donald 31 claimed improvement in
stretch properties of normal cotton fabrics by slack
mercerization with sodium hydroxide. However, the
study is silent about elastic recovery nature.
Mukhopadhyay et al. 32 developed the air-jet
textured yarn to acquire stretch properties of woven
fabric by analysing fabric extension and recovery
characteristics. It was observed that the spun yarn
fabric shows better dimensional stability and shape
retention property in terms of higher immediate
recovery and resiliency, and lower delayed recovery
and permanent set as compared to the textured yarn
fabric. Single yarn fabric possesses greater recovery
and resiliency along weft direction as compared to
doubled yarn fabric. The finer filament textured yarn
fabric shows lower immediate recovery and resiliency
than coarser filament textured yarn woven fabric.
Kentaro and Takayuki et al. 33 studied the
relationship between stretch properties of weft knit
fabrics and their geometrical parameters. The
comparison was made on stress strain behavior of
similar fabrics made from spun yarn by false
texurising. Stretch of these fabrics was affected by
cover factor only. It is known that stress-strain
behaviour depends on raw material and knit
construction, irrespective of the density of knitted
fabrics.
Few attempts were reported on elastic properties of
elastic fabrics produced with spandex.
Mukhopadhyay et al. 34 studied the effect of lycra
filament on the extension-at- peak load, immediate
recovery, delayed recovery, permanent set and
resiliency of cotton–lycra blended knitted fabric. It is
observed that the immediate recovery, extension and
resiliency are higher for lycra blended fabric, but its
delayed recovery and permanent set are lower than
100 % cotton fabric.
Dunja and Vili 35 investigated the behavior of
woven fabric with elastane yarn during stretching.
The study reported the viscoelastic part of the stress-
strain curve and behaviour of fabrics with elastane
yarn after one hour stretching above the yield point.
Research results on viscoelastic part of stress-
extension curve show low values of stress and
extension at yield point (extension at the yield point
ranges 0.25% - 0.75 %), which indicates that a larger
area of the viscoelastic behaviour of the fabrics is
analysed. Further the results also show greater
differences in viscoelastic properties on stress-
extension curve beyond the yield point, which means
that the elastane in yarn affects viscoelastic
SENTHILKUMAR et al.: ELASTANE FABRICS – A TOOL FOR STRETCH APPLICATIONS IN SPORTS
305
properties, with an extension which is higher than one
at the yield point.
Cooper et al. 36 observed that means of reducing the
inter fibre frictional properties should also
significantly improve the stretch and recovery
properties of all cotton stretch woven fabrics.
5 Testing of Elastic Materials
Testing for elastane yarn and fabric is not similar to
that used for hard yarn and its fabric. Because, the
slight variation in spandex yarn tension affects its
properties. Linear density of elastomeric yarns is
tested using linear density apparatus following the
ASTM D2591 -01 method. In measuring stress
strain behavior of elastomeric fibres, special clamps
or bench marks are to be used to avoid false readings
from necking out of threads as a result of the large
reduction in yarn size which occurs at high extensions
5. Similarly, Elastic stretch and recovery of core-spun
fabric is tested using ASTM D 4964 -96 method.
Fabric slippage will be more for elastic fabrics which
will affect the end results. It can be controlled by
using band clamps at both the edges.
Cooke and Assimakopoulos 37 attempted the fabric
specimen - symmetrical folding method to avoid the
edge effect during testing of fabric extension and
recovery. The method of sample placement in the
machine has significant effect on test performance.
Similarly, Kielty et al. 4 recommended that the stretch
properties are better tested by deformation of a
sample clamped all around, as in a burst tester.
Elastic properties of the fabric are normally
assessed by parameters like fabric immediate and
delayed recovery, and permanent set. This static
measurement helps to analyse only the fabric
dimensional stability, whereas dynamic elastic
properties of the fabric are used to analyse the
garment response to body movement which will help
to improve power during sports activity. It can be
indirectly measured using ASTM Method D 2594 -
99A with Instron tester 38.
Even though a number of methods are available to
test suitability of elastic yarn and their fabrics
characteristics for a specific end use the facilities to
quantify the characteristics are scanty in literature.
For example, some times the sports wear made up of
good elastic fabric may not serve the purpose. The
testing of its elastic properties with the existing
methods may be unsuitable. Elastic properties of
elastic fabrics are generally tested in uniaxial
direction but in real time performance, the garment
stretch and recovery is in multi-directional way
(horizontal, vertical direction and also in lateral
direction). Hence, new test methods are thus required
to assess the specific end use applications of elastic
garments.
Hazel et al. 39 developed a device that can be used
for measuring the stretch and elastic recovery of
knitted materials in lengthwise, crosswise or in both
directions simultaneously when various loads are
applied. It is possible to determine the combined
instantaneous and delayed recovery.
Ryan and Postle 40 stated that the dynamic elastic
modulus is one of the fundamental properties of
textile materials and also equally difficult to quantify.
Sonic methods are now developed to test the dynamic
elastic modulus. The tests are not only simple but also
non destructive in nature.
The use of compression garments is becoming
increasingly more common among athletes as the
garments have been shown to promote everything
from an increase in oxygenation to a decrease in
recovery time. Measurement of lactic acid, creatine
kinase and other intra cellular fluid is used to assess
the performance of the sportsmen 41.
Salim Ibrahim42 developed several new test
methods to provide a quantitative definition of
performance of form-persuasive fabrics and garments.
Some of them are (i) pressure indicator which
continuously measures garment pressure on the body,
the instrument consists of a pressure transducer which
is inserted between garment and body to measure the
garment pressure, (ii) contour meter which measures
the static response with help of contour gauge to
provide quantitative and qualitative measurement of
change in body geometry with pressure; and (iii) an
accelerometer to measure the extent of dynamic
control or the control of seat vibration during walking,
afforded by foundation garments.
The length and/or shape variations in tight-fitting
garment of a person can be measured using dipole
resonator adapted with the garments 43.
6 Application of Elastic Garments in Sports
Elastic fabrics are an important route to achieve
comfort by freedom of movement for body fitted with
sports and outdoor wear. Elastic garments used in
athletics and sports may improve the athlete’s
performance in cycling, swimming and so on. They
are also important for inner wear. This type of fabric
enables freedom of body movement by reducing the
INDIAN J. FIBRE TEXT. RES., SEPTEMBER 2011
306
fabric resistance to body stretch. A simple body
movement may extend the body skin by about 50%
and the fabric must easily accompany the stretch and
recover on relaxation. Strenuous movements involved
in active sports may require even greater garment
stretch. Drastic differences between skin and fabric
movements result in restrictions of movement to the
wearer. Elastic fibre, yarn and fabric provide the
necessary elasticity to a garment 9.
Brandon et al. 44 determined the effect of custom-
fit compression shorts on athletic performance and
examined the mechanical properties of the shorts. The
compressive garment significantly reduced impact
force by 27% as compared to American football pants
alone.
Compression garments may offer several ergogenic
benefits for athletes across a multitude of sporting
backgrounds. In particular, some studies have
reported that compression garments improve muscular
power, strength, enhance recovery following intense
exercise and improve proprioception. However,
caution should be taken while choosing the correct
compression garment for the right sports and ensuring
that the garment provides enough pressure to promote
venous return45.
Rob and Marc 46 have conflict opinion that no
benefit is observed while wearing compression
garments for repeat-sprint or throwing performance.
However, the use of these garments as a recovery tool,
while doing exercise, may be beneficial to reduce
post-exercise trauma and perceived muscle soreness.
They also reported that the effect of compression
garments on recovery of muscle performance
following high-intensity sprint and plyometric
exercise is negligible 47. Similarly, William 48
observed that these garment has no effect on maximal
force or power of the highest jump. But, it has
significant effect on repetitive vertical jumps by
helping to maintain higher mean jumping power 48.
Though there are some conflicts about the benefit of
compression garments, the spandex and their fabrics
have tremendous scope in the field of sports
applications. Research towards improvement in the
elasticity of fibre, yarn and fabrics and development
in testing methods for elastic garments, is the current
requirement for the industrial product development.
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... Compression textile products may be defined as compression products for a special purpose that could be medicine [2,3], sport [4][5][6][7] or body formation purposes [8]. There are a number of well-known commercial brands such as Sigvaris (Switzerland), Orliman (Spain), Otto Bock (Germany), Bauerfeind (Germany) and others in the world market of orthopaedic compression supports. ...
... Therefore, the selected yarns must ensure the following conditions: (1) sufficient elasticity of the product in the longitudinal (wale) and transversal (course) directions; (2) the minimal residual deformation of the product; (3) the durability of functional and physio-mechanical properties of the product during usage; and (4) hygienic properties, for example, good air permeability. Usually, the types of products used are: (1) polyamide yarns (plain and textured fibres); (2) polyurethane reinforced yarns; (3) vulcanised rubber yarns; (4) cotton or viscose yarns; and (5) elastomeric yarns with polyurethane or silicon core [6,[78][79][80]. Due to neoprene's good characteristics (high elasticity, tension properties and thermal insulation, that enable neoprene to promote healing and absorb shocks), it also is widely used in medical products. ...
... Compression-knitted fabrics may be produced on both flat and circular knitting machines [6,17,78,80,87,89,90]. Circular knitting machines are used to produce tube-shaped products; usually, it does not contain any additional details such as strips or hooks. ...
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Analysis of functional products for medical textiles indicates that there are plenty of different classifications of this group. Requirements for compression generated by compression garments differ depending on the application area, and even more, sometimes are contradictory and can be fulfilled in very different ways. The effectiveness of such products depends on mechanical and physical properties as well as psychological barriers. Currently, there is no uniform classification of compression classes, furthermore, there is no uniform standard, test method or technic for evaluation of the product’ compression. Knitted compression fabrics are made by knitting together at least two types of yarns: a ground yarn which ensures stiffness and thickness and an elastomeric yarn which generates compression. Knitted compression products can be produced on both flat and circular knitting machines, though parameters and usage of production are different. Additional elements used in the structure of the compression product can significantly change the generated compression. Purposes and number of additional details depend on the application and functionality of the compression support, nevertheless, all rigid elements must be taken into account at the designing stage. Additional functionality like antimicrobial activity or thermal therapy can also be provided for compression knits. It is highly important to ensure the longevity of all functional properties.
... During movement, the extensor digitorum brevis works in unison with other muscles to raise the toes off the ground when walking [24]. The human walking cycle can be partitioned into two main phases viz stance phase which occupies about 65% and swing phases -about 35-40% [25]. The stance phase (weight-bearing phase) is used to describe the period where the foot under consideration is in contact with the ground [26] while the swing phase in turn describes the period when the foot leaves the ground [27]. ...
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Currently, smart shoes are not as common as other wearable devices such as fitness trackers or smartwatches. However, with the continuous improvement in sensor and IOT technologies, it is expected that shoes with smart capabilities will catch up with the other popular wearables. The emergence of 3D knitting and its subsequent application in footwear manufacture has revolutionized the shoe manufacturing process. The use of knitwear allows for shoe parts such as the upper or the sole (insole, Strobel sole, midsole and/or outer sole) to be tailored with specific areas having different characteristics and providing different functions with low production effort. This study presents the design and manufacture of a knitted smart sneaker for cadence mensuration. The specified part of the sneaker is knitted with silver- plated polyester yarn to serve as a strain sensor. During the weight-bearing and release phases of the foot, while walking, this strain sensor is stressed and relaxed by this oscillatory phenomenon thus allowing footstep data to be measured. Stride estimate tests were carried out and the results established that strides taken by a user can accurately be correlated to the readings of the system. This study is the first to develop a smart shoe-sensing system where the sensor is inherently embedded within the shoe upper.
... Garment manufacturers, on the other hand, expect the fabric to be easy to tailor, to pass through the make-up (garment production) process easily and without unnecessary problems (Behera 2015;Fan and Hunter 2009). The use of elastane in outerwear fabric blends is preferred to improve flexibility for good appearance and wearability, and comfort (Ozdil 2008;Senthilkumar 2011). ...
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In this study, the effect of the use of elastane on the tailorability and appearance of 100% wool and different proportions of wool – man-made fiber blended worsted suiting fabrics was investigated. The evaluations were made by means of mechanical properties. Although the amount of elastane used in the weft yarn of elastane-containing fabrics differed in each group, it was observed that the effect of elastane varied mainly depending on the fabric weight. It was seen that the use of elastane increased the bending rigidity for heavy weight (290 g/m² and above) fabric groups (groups 1 and 6) and negatively affected tailorability due to low shear rigidity for fabrics other than these groups. Except for the group with low fabric weight, all groups were found to improve the appearance in both weft and warp directions. However, it was concluded that fabrics containing 7% or more elastane in the weft may have a seam puckering problem due to low formability in the warp direction. The effect of elastane on extensibility was found to be influenced by fabric density, elastane content and construction in addition to fabric weight. The low fabric density and weight caused excessive extensibility, resulting in very poor tailorability.
... Stretchable yarns are being increasingly used in different types of apparel and clothing products such as sportswear, swimwear, compression stockings and especially in stretchable denim [1][2][3]. When made of stretchable denim fabrics, denim provides superior performance in terms of stretch, fit, ease of body movement and overall comfort of the wearer. ...
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Dual-core yarns, containing two filaments within the core of the yarn, have gained increasing commercial and research interest recently, especially in denim manufacturing. The use of multi-components in dual-core yarns allows for tailoring the properties of the yarn and denim fabric. The type of filaments and fibers and their surface characteristics play a role in fiber-to-fiber cohesion within yarn structure. However, little has been reported regarding the effect of different filaments on the properties of dual-core yarns. The objective of this study was to investigate the effect of three different filaments, T400, polyester flat (PET flat) and polyester textured (PET textured) as well as two yarn structures, siro versus non-siro, on tensile, elastic and other properties of dual-core yarns at same twist level and linear density of the yarn. The results showed that the siro spun dual-core yarn containing T400 exhibited 25% higher tenacity compared with yarns containing other filaments. However, the plastic deformation of the yarn containing PET flat filament, having a higher initial modulus, was at a relatively lower level compared with T400 and PET textured. Overall, the siro yarn structure showed lower imperfections and higher tenacity compared with the non-siro yarn structure. The dual-core yarn containing T400 showed a higher level of moisture wicking compared with other filaments which can add to the comfort properties but a similar hairiness level. The findings of this study suggest that the use of a filament with a higher initial modulus can improve the stretch and recovery behavior of the dual-core yarns.
... Therefore, synthetic fibres are usually mixed with natural fibres to obtain proper garment properties. Among them, elastane (also known as spandex) is a typical synthetic elastic fibre that exhibits a highly reversible extension of 400-800% [118]. This capacity has become the prerequisite for fashionable or functional apparel such as leisurewear, underwear, outer clothing, and sportswear. ...
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Citation: Bianchi, S.; Bartoli, F.; Bruni, C.; Fernandez-Avila, C.; Rodriguez-Turienzo, L.; Mellado-Carretero, J.; Spinelli, D.; Coltelli, M.-B. Opportunities and Limitations in Recycling Fossil Polymers from Textiles. Macromol 2023, 3, 120-148. https://doi.org/ 10.3390/macromol3020009 Academic Editor: Ivo Grabchev Abstract: The recovery and recycling of textile waste is becoming urgent since textiles are generating more and more waste. In one year, about 92 million tons of textile waste are produced and the fashion industry accounts for 58 million tons of plastic waste per year. Several different synthetic fibres are used in textiles, thanks to their excellent processability and mechanical properties, but on the other hand, the difficulties linked to their end of life and the release of microplastics from them during washing is currently a cause of great concern. In this context, policy actions have been aimed at promoting recycling of waste and replacing fossil-based fibres with biobased fibres. The current review, considering both scientific papers published on international journals and web sources, considers the sorting of textiles and the possible recycling of polyesters, polyamides and acrylics. Nevertheless, the contamination and presence of mixed fibres in fabrics is another issue to face for recycling. Methodologies to solve the issue linked to the presence of elastane, present in the stretch fabrics, as well as the possibility of recycling textiles in the non-woven and composite sector are investigated. Moreover, chemical recycling and enzymatic recycling of fossil polymers are also considered. Thanks to the comprehensive scheme of this review, it is possible to deduce that, while the use of biobased materials should rapidly increase in textile applications, the perspective of recycling materials obtained from waste textile into durable and/or high-performance products seems the most promising.
... The garment's immediate response to the body's movement can be estimated by dynamic elastic recovery. The elastane bare-plaited garments have a superior dynamic elastic recovery as compared to spandex core-spun yarns [79]. The previous research showed that the increasing 9 International Journal of Polymer Science linear density of elastane resulted in poor thermophysiological comfort of the garment. ...
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... The maximum is controlled using 70-75% shrinkage. Second, shrinkage fiber is raised to its original position in the thermoplastic and cooled after the reaction of a hot steam process [13][14][15]. This process will mold the fiber to its original position. ...
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... (Textile Exchange 2019) Of the 61.8 million tons of plastics produced in Europe in 2018, around one million tons was PA so efforts are being made to reuse or recycle waste polyamide (Hassan et al. 2016;Europe 2019;Mondragon et al. 2020;Rietzler et al. 2021). PA is usually combined with elastane (EA) that is type of polyurethane responsible for elasticity and strechines of the final product (Senthilkumar et al. 2011). PA 6 and PA 66 are the two most manufactured polyamides and are used to make everything from ropes, carpets and tyre cords, to performance clothes (Bai and Song 2005;Deopura and Padaki 2014;Hassan et al. 2016;Plastics Europe 2021). ...
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It is a consumer's instinct to use the sense of touch when choosing a garment; to describe and assess the fabric quality and its suitability for a specific end use. The way that the fabric feels is described as its handle or 'fabric hand'. Fabric hand can be evaluated by mechanical or electronic devices and by human judges using psychophysical or psychological techniques. Effect of mechanical and physical properties on fabric hand thoroughly explores the techniques and issues involved in this difficult subject. It begins by looking at the concepts of fabric hand, with chapters on the developments in hand measurement, the application of statistical methods and the differences in fabric hand between different cultures. The second part is devoted to the different effects fiber, yarn and fabric can have on fabric hand. The effect of factors including fiber, yarn and woven fabrics are all outlined in separate chapters. Finally, the third section describes the effect that processing has on fabric hand. This includes processes such as wet processing and chemical finishing, mechanical finishing and refurbishing. Finally two important appendices are included for reference. Appendix A is from the Hand Evaluation and Standardization Committee and outlines the Kawabata system for standardization and analysis of hand evaluation. Appendix B describes the SiroFAST system of fabric assurance by simple testing developed by CSIRO, Australia.
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Core-spun yarns can be used as an alternative to conventional plated constructions using two yarns to produce stretch fabrics. The core yarns may comprise a core of Dorlastan covered by a micromodal or cotton fibre sheath, which gives the finished fabric a high degree of comfort. Another advantage is that they can be processed on existing machinery. Brief advice is given on processing (e.g. setting the tension) and finishing the fabrics.
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Protection, comfort and shape retention are the principal parameters in sportswear and leisurewear design - a new approach is discussed and the role of fibres based on polyurethane block copolymers. The chemistry of Spandex fibres is explained. Recent developments in Shape Memory Polyurethanes are reviewed and the manufacturers who developed them. The logic and anatomy of comfortable, functional sportswear is discussed with stretch ratios. High-energy expenditure sports take into account metabolic heat generated. Eleven desirable attributes for sportswear are listed, and a multi-layer fabric structure described. The relationship of wicking and spreading or evaporating layers is assessed. Spandex yarn choice is surveyed with polyester substitutes and appropriate blends. Global sportswear market/growth is summarised. (2 fig, 1 tab, 29 ref).
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Markets, applications and processing details for spandex fibres are reviewed. Although available for three decades, spandex use has recently expanded from underwear to outerwear, particularly for casual lifestyles. Current fashion applications are particularly important because of strong emphases on stretch and flexibility. Spandex allows designers to develop fashions with comfort and style. Typical properties of spandex fibres and finished fabrics are discussed, as are the production plans of major US producers DuPont, Bayer and Globe.
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Fabric extension and recovery characteristics in relation to the fabric fractional cover, nature of weft yarns (air-jet textured yarn/spun yarn), doubling of single yarn and filament fineness in air-jet textured yarn have been analysed. It is observed that the spun yarn fabric shows better dimensional stability and shape retention property in terms of higher immediate recovery and resiliency, and lower delayed recovery and permanent set as compared to the textured yarn fabric. Single yarn fabric possesses greater immediate recovery and resiliency along weft direction as compared to doubled yarn fabric. The finer filament textured yarn fabric shows lower immediate recovery and resiliency than that of the coarser filament textured yarn fabric.