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Proactive product development integrating consumer requirements
Abstract
Purpose
This paper presents a model for an effective product development process, which is now becoming increasingly critical to success of apparel firms.
Design/methodology/approach
This research modeled apparel product development as a market driven process and integrated the consumer purchase decision in the model of proactive product development integrating consumer requirements (PPDICR). The PPDICR links the consumer purchase decision and multiple consumer research strategies to specific stages of the no‐interval coherently phased product development model for apparel through 15 avenues of consumer input.
Findings
The PPDICR model contributes to our understanding on how consumer input can be used to facilitate the process and through what avenues that input may be acquired. This model provides an effective tool for intra‐company to inter‐business analysis of consumer input into the apparel product development process.
Research limitations/implications
The PPDICR provides a theoretical understanding of apparel production, and is useful to researchers in visualizing the impact of changes in the business environment, integrating research projects, and establishing research priorities.
Practical implications
Practitioners may use the model to improve and develop products, select appropriate consumer input, and strategically plan organizational changes.
Originality/value
This model is a useful tool for effective product development both for researchers and industrialists alike. It brings in the important element of the integration of consumer information.
... Some researchers tried to incorporate the customers' FAE needs from the beginning of the development process (Gam et al., 2009;LaBat and Sokolowski, 1999;May-Plumlee and Little, 1998;Pitimaneeyakul et al., 2004;Wu and Wu, 2011). Only one model (May-Plumlee and Little, 2006) focused primarily on the customer's behaviour when selecting and purchasing products in the market. ...
... An approach to co-development with fabric suppliers that was not suggested in other models was discussed in the no-interval coherently phased product development model (May-Plumlee and Little, 1998). Collaboration with the customer is suggested in two of the models (May-Plumlee and Little, 2006;Morris, 2011). However, integration with both suppliers and customers is not discussed, though collaborative design is becoming an emerging avenue that can provide valuable information during the apparel development process that could dramatically influence how apparel and other products are developed (May-Plumlee and Little, 2006). ...
... Collaboration with the customer is suggested in two of the models (May-Plumlee and Little, 2006;Morris, 2011). However, integration with both suppliers and customers is not discussed, though collaborative design is becoming an emerging avenue that can provide valuable information during the apparel development process that could dramatically influence how apparel and other products are developed (May-Plumlee and Little, 2006). It is a crucial area that should be investigated further to minimise the risk of developing unsuccessful products as the presence of responsive partners upstream and downstream of the focal firm is accepted as a key to the creation of the right products (Christopher and Peck, 2004). ...
... Some researchers tried to incorporate the customers' FAE needs from the beginning of the development process (Gam et al., 2009;LaBat and Sokolowski, 1999;May-Plumlee and Little, 1998;Pitimaneeyakul et al., 2004;Wu and Wu, 2011). Only one model (May-Plumlee and Little, 2006) focused primarily on the customer's behaviour when selecting and purchasing products in the market. ...
... An approach to co-development with fabric suppliers that was not suggested in other models was discussed in the no-interval coherently phased product development model (May-Plumlee and Little, 1998). Collaboration with the customer is suggested in two of the models (May-Plumlee and Little, 2006;Morris, 2011). However, integration with both suppliers and customers is not discussed, though collaborative design is becoming an emerging avenue that can provide valuable information during the apparel development process that could dramatically influence how apparel and other products are developed (May-Plumlee and Little, 2006). ...
... Collaboration with the customer is suggested in two of the models (May-Plumlee and Little, 2006;Morris, 2011). However, integration with both suppliers and customers is not discussed, though collaborative design is becoming an emerging avenue that can provide valuable information during the apparel development process that could dramatically influence how apparel and other products are developed (May-Plumlee and Little, 2006). It is a crucial area that should be investigated further to minimise the risk of developing unsuccessful products as the presence of responsive partners upstream and downstream of the focal firm is accepted as a key to the creation of the right products (Christopher and Peck, 2004). ...
The product development process is recognised as a key element for ensuring long term success and sustainability of organisations. Constantly reevaluating the strategy and tactics of product development is deemed to be vital to better manage the process of creating more 'on-point' products. Thus, the main focus of this research is to assess how deeply and comprehensively the existing apparel product development models outlined in literature discuss and analyse the development process and identify the prevailing gaps that exist with respect to customer-supplier collaboration and decision-making. Some of the existing models discussed in depth in the reported research are design, design development and style selection stages. A few have considered the integration of the responsible divisions. The theoretical models presented in the literature have not adequately addressed the customer-supplier collaboration and the decision-making involved in the apparel product development process although many of them focused on the activities undertaken to complete the product development.
... Several scholars have documented and described the process of developing clothing products in large enterprises located in industrialised nations and in higher education (Gaskill, 1992;May-Plumlee & Little, 1998;May-Plumlee & Little, 2006;Regan et al., 1998;Vezzetti, Alemanni, & Macheda, 2015;Vezzetti, Alemanni, & Morelli, 2017;Wickett, Gaskill, & Damhorst, 1999). In South Africa, Tselepis, Mastamet-Mason, and Antonites (2015) described a collaborative clothing design process between apprentice designers and expert design entrepreneurs at an incubation hub in Gauteng. ...
... The iterative process begins with line planning and research and then moves on to design/concept development, design development and style selection, marketing the line and pre-production, and ends with line optimisation. This six-stage clothing product development process was also used by May-Plumlee and Little (2006) to develop a tool that could be used to integrate the input of consumers into the clothing product development process. ...
Several scholars have documented and described the process of developing clothing products in large enterprises located in industrialised nations. Despite the considerable research that has been undertaken on the clothing product development process, there is a gap in the literature on the process of developing clothing products in small-medium enterprises (SMEs), particularly those located in emerging nations such as South Africa. The purpose of this exploratory study was to contribute to the literature on the clothing development process by describing the process of developing clothing products in a South African SME. A qualitative case study was conducted at an SME based in Limpopo, South Africa. The SME was found to have a shorter product development process due to fewer decision-makers being involved in the product development process, as well as fewer product development activities taking place.
... May-Plumlee and Little, 2006;Goworek, 2010;Moretti and Braghini Junior, 2017). ...
... This has not been seen previously in FPD process models (May-Plumlee and Little, 1998; Lea Wickett, Gaskill and Damhorst, 1999;May-Plumlee and Little, 2006;Goworek, 2010;Moretti and Braghini Junior, 2017) or addressed in the fashion product development literature. The model illustrates the process as circular rather than linear and has the central stage of Research, Review and Planning (RRP) which is a necessary activity and, in many cases, the starting point for the product development process. ...
Purpose
This research critically investigates product development in the context of fast fashion online retailers who are developing “own label” fashion clothing. With a focus upon inputs, outputs, planning and management in order to comprehensively map the interplay of people, processes and the procedures of the product development process adopted.
Design/methodology/approach
Qualitative research method was employed. Face-to-face semi structured in depth interviews were conducted with key informants from market leading fast fashion online retailers in the UK.
Findings
The major findings of this research demonstrate the disruptions in the product development process in contemporary and challenging fashion retailing and a new “circular process” model more appropriate and specific to online fast fashion businesses is presented.
Research limitations/implications
The research has implications for the emerging body of theory relating to fashion product development. The research is limited to UK online fashion retailers, although their operations are global.
Practical implications
The findings from this study may be useful for apparel product development for retailers considering an online and fast fashion business model.
Originality/value
The emergent process model in this study may be used as a baseline for further studies to compare product development processes.
... Skilled workers are required for high production rate. Accurate production method and processes, proper training and supervision are essential to achieve the optimum improvements on productivity [8,9]. Time study is a very effective tool in improving the existing situations and enhancing the productivity in sewing line [10]. ...
... Standard minute value (SAM) is the standard time, to accomplish any given task by using best possible work methodology at standard level of performance. [8] 3. ...
In earlier days, the basic necessity of clothing was to cover and protect the body from climatic changes. But, today people became more solicitous about the comfort of wearing and also the durability of the garment. In a day, one want different wears at different times. Therefore, garment industry started thinking of application of modernization, various engineering tools and techniques in garment manufacturing for increasing the productivity & efficiency. This work focused on time study, visual management and work standards techniques for improving the productivity and quality. While conducting this study first identify the factors affecting on productivity and quality and by reducing these factors can easily achieve quality as well as the production in sewing line. By implementing the above stated tools the efficiency significantly increased by 8.07%.
... Skilled workers are required for high production rate. Accurate production method and processes, proper training and supervision are essential to achieve the optimum improvements on productivity [8,9]. Time study is a very effective tool in improving the existing situations and enhancing the productivity in sewing line [10]. ...
... Standard minute value (SAM) is the standard time, to accomplish any given task by using best possible work methodology at standard level of performance. [8] 3. ...
This project work deals with shop floor problems based on the practical experimental result performed. During study it isobserved time and motion study, effective visual management system , supervision & adopted standard work procedure, motivation to operator for good work. All this tricks help for better productivity and quality in apparel industry with higher quality as per fashion trend. By better utilization of man, machine, material and method shows high production rate.
... The introduction and development of new technologies, plus the changing behaviour of consumers and their demands have disrupted many business models within the fashion supply chain and driven a research agenda for many (Barnes & Lea-Greenwood, 2006;Christopher, Lowson, & Peck, 2008;Doyle, Moore, & Morgan, 2006;Goworek, 2014;McCormick et al., 2014;Tyler, Heeley, & Bhamra, 2006). Furthermore, there is limited research in the specific field of Fashion Product Development (FPD) with relatively few current theoretical models that support the process (Carr & Pomeroy, 1992;Goworek, 2010;LaBat & Sokolowski, 1999;Lamb & Kallal, 1992;May-Plumlee & Little, 1998;May-Plumlee & Little, 2006). These attempts, however, could be considered dated. ...
... existing Fashion Product Development models such as NICPPD and PPDICR(May-Plumlee & Little, 1998;May-Plumlee & Little, 2006) that are detailed and address the process, it is the challenging time scales, short product life cycles, unpredictability and management of the process that need to be addressed in research. The review bySilva & Rupasinghe (2016) of NPD models supports this idea. ...
The UK fashion industry has changed in the last twenty-five years with the introduction and development of new technologies, increased consumer demands and changing consumer behaviour. These changes have disrupted many business models within the fashion supply chain for example in the areas of consumer expectations, retail formats, product assortment, speed to market and manufacturing (Barnes & Lea-Greenwood, 2006; Christopher, Lowson, & Peck, 2008; Doyle, Moore, & Morgan, 2006; Goworek, 2014; McCormick et al., 2014; Tyler, Heeley, & Bhamra, 2006).There is limited research in the field of Fashion Product Development (FPD) with relatively few theoretical models that support the process (d’Avolio, Bandinelli, & Rinaldi, 2015; Goworek, 2010; Le Pechoux, Little, & Istook, 2004; Silva & Rupasinghe, 2016). These however, are considered dated and do not consider the changes and challenges in contemporary UK High Street fashion sector.
This research critically investigates product development in the context of UK High Street ‘own label’ fashion clothing. In so doing, the research places considerable focus upon inputs, outputs, planning and management in order to map comprehensively the interplay of people, processes and procedures of product development adopted by UK High Street fashion clothing brands. This research aims to challenge the traditional Fashion Product Development Process and present a review of the key literature that is more reflective of the context in which the business model is focused.
Goworek (2010) proposed that to work effectively, fashion product development processes involve co-operation rather than mere co-ordination, mirroring practice in the domain of engineering design as suggested in the work of Boujut and Laureillard, (2000). This idea has formed the basis of this research. Applying theories from New Product Development (Cooper & Kleinschmidt, 1995; Hart, 1996; Johne & Snelson, 1988; Krishnan & Ulrich, 2001), Project Management (Clelands & Ireland, 2002; Lock, 2013; Major, 2010; Packendorff, 1995; Soderlund, 2004) and Fashion Product Development to identify any parallels, similarities and gaps to establish the contribution. The expected outcome will be a review and contribution to the literature more appropriate for the contemporary fashion industry, responding to the demand for increased speed and decision making when developing fashion products.
... The successful fashion designer has to consider the consumer's needs and, then, create a unique product (Aktuglu, 2001). The effective management of the apparel industry depends on anticipating consumer needs and desires who need to respond with innovation, with products well designed and executed properly (May-Plumlee, & Little, 2006). In addition, the product development process contributes to maintaining the profitability and flexibility of textile and clothing companies (Bandinelli, Rinaldi, Rossi, & Terzi, 2013;Senanayake & Little, 2010). ...
... , the evaluation stage of prototype is an intermediate point of innovation in the evaluation process of the fashion garment product development. Furthermore, the use of prototypes is an effective way to present products, test and evaluate the style carried out for the apparel development process, thus allowing adjustments for the products(May- Plumlee & Little, 2006). ...
To remain in the market, the process of development of fashion garment products produces a large quantity of products. During this process, the prototypes are made, evaluated and selected to compose the collection, thus the designers use some criteria to select them. For a designer, this process of selection is a complex decision-making, because they need to combine several criteria to attend a very specific target audience. Within this context, the main objective of this study was to propose a model for the selection of prototypes in the development process of fashion garment products, based on a multi-criteria tool, the Analytical Hierarchy Process (AHP). The model was developed based on literature, and the criteria used were: part acceptance, cost, design and production. Then, the developed tool was applied to a real case study and proved to be efficient, thereby enabling a structured modeling of the problem considering the multiple criteria and uncertainty. © 2017, Eduem - Editora da Universidade Estadual de Maringa. All rights reserved.
... Te measurements for each variable were adapted from the literature. Te extended variable, product attributes were measured by using 16 items (brand (known), price (afordable), country of origin (made-in label), approval of others, fabrication/construction, size/ft (matches with body size), aesthetic of the garment, comfort, notions (trims and accessories), color (type and intensity), fashionability (recent product), design features (shape and silhouette), style/design/uniqueness, durability (lasts longer), seasonality (style goes with season), care label (how to wash and iron), and fabric content and composition) from the literature [85,86]. Consumer ethnocentrism was scaled by using the 17 consumer ethnocentrism scale: CETSCALE developed by Shimp and Sharma [36]. ...
Consumers in developing countries, particularly Africans, are strongly criticized for their unfavorable feeling about locally produced apparel products. With this concern, this paper explores the determinants of Ethiopian consumers’ purchasing behavior towards locally produced apparel products by using the extended theory of planned behavior (TPB) model. A self-administered questionnaire which consists of open and closed-ended questions was developed based on the literature. Cross-sectional data were collected from 478 Ethiopian consumers by following the convenience sampling technique and were analyzed by structural equation modeling with AMOS V.26.0. The ethnocentric tendency of Ethiopian consumers was found at a moderate level. The consumers had a very high purchasing intention towards locally produced apparel products but had a low actual purchasing behavior. The result also showed that Ethiopian consumers use price, garment fitness, comfort, and color as the most important attributes, while the country of origin and notions were found to be the moderate important attributes. Moreover, consumers’ attitude towards locally produced apparel products was found as the most influential factor, while perceived behavioral control and subjective norms were the least influential factors in affecting consumers’ purchasing intention. The study’s findings provide insight into domestic apparel consumption as well as the factors affecting consumer purchasing intentions and behavior in the Ethiopian context. The study incorporates product attributes and ethnocentrism into the TPB model to investigate their impact on consumer purchasing intentions which are rarely investigated together.
... (Ogawa & Piller, 2006) explained that Muji developed products using their knowledge of technical constraints and market acceptance to interpret customer evaluations. According to (May-Plumlee & Little, 2006), evaluative criteria are an essential component that links product development and consumer purchasing decisions. The application of the quality function is one-way consumers are associated with the product development process. ...
The purpose of this study is to identify the relationship between product design aesthetics, product development process, attitude toward the brand, product evaluation, and product preference based on literature review and data analysis. This study's approach is quantitative research with a data collection method using the electronic questionnaires of Google forms. This study was conducted in Indonesia, so the Indonesian consumer becomes the respondents of this research. In this research, total data gathered from 250 respondents were analyzed by Smart PLS 3.2.2. These findings of this study indicate that product design aesthetics, product development process, and attitude toward the brand impact product evaluation. Moreover, product design aesthetics also impacts product preference. However, in this study, the attitude toward the brand towards product preference is not supported. Besides, the hypothesis between product evaluation and product preference is also not supported. This study's results provide significant theoretical and managerial implications for marketing strategy theory and R&D through product evaluation and product preferences for the factors included in this study and a deeper understanding of the smartphone industry marketing by describing it.
... Whereas some scholars have classified only product structural and physical attributes (e.g. fibre content, construction) under the intrinsic category (Swinker & Hines, 2006), others have also included product performance, quality, and aesthetic attributes (Fiore & Damhorst, 1992;May-Plumlee & Little, 2006). ...
Based on a systematic analysis of extant research on apparel evaluative criteria and following the logical partitioning approach of developing classification schemes (Hunt, 2010, Marketing theory: Foundations, controversy, strategy, and resource-advantage theory. Routledge), we developed a new classification system, titled Apparel Product Evaluation (APE) framework. The framework integrates, clarifies, and logically organises evaluative criteria into four mutually exclusive and clearly defined dimensions: Intrinsic, Marketing, Functional, and Socio-Communicative. Law-like propositions were developed to explicate each dimension and guide the classification of evaluative criteria. Sustainability criteria were incorporated in the framework. This comprehensive classification framework can guide new product development and holistic understanding of how people evaluate apparel products. The framework methodically explains the roles of producers, retailers, consumers, and society and their interactions in defining and activating various evaluative attributes in the four dimensions. Organisation and classification of a phenomenon, such as evaluative criteria, is the first step towards theory-building and helps to advance the knowledge in the area.
... New product development ( Figure 6) process has been highly endorsed in academic literature (Krishnan and Ulrich, 2001;May-Plumlee and Little, 2006;Goworek, 2010;d'Avolio et al., 2015). A methodical product development process has multiple advantages to newly established companies in emerging economies. ...
Purpose
Uzbekistan is one of the most prominent cotton producers since the soviet era, but it has struggled to establish a complete value chain. The country’s strategic location and industrial potential have not been harnessed accordingly. This paper aims to critically investigate the barriers in the value chain and propose solutions to the stakeholders in the sector.
Design/methodology/approach
The research involves both primary and secondary research methods. Value chain analysis method has been implemented to ground the theories and results. A systematic literature review was conducted to understand the current position in the world market. Official statistical data was collected from the government bodies to support the reflections of academic literature. Primary data was collected by conducting in-depth semi-structured interviews and questionnaires in 50 local textile companies. Finally, the authors have used their empirical evidences from emerging economies to provide solutions to the sector.
Findings
The value chain suffers a disconnect, as the emphasis has been on exporting cotton. Moreover, companies have a very limited technical know-how of supply chain management and hence no value addition to the raw material. The consumer relies on imports, as there is no significant participation from the Uzbek companies across the fashion segments. This is a major loss of earnings to the country.
Originality/value
Existing academic literature revolves around the cotton and silk industry, but, to the best of the authors’ knowledge, there is no study that unites the value chain and provides solutions to its stakeholders. This paper provides a socio-economic vision to the stakeholders, academia and industry so that the country can harness its potential and become one of the leading apparel producing nations in the future.
... Ayrıca üç boyutlu yazıcıların giyim üretiminde kullanılması hedef kitleye özgü tasarımların yapılabilmesine olanak sağlamakta, giyim sektörüne alternatif olarak üretim olanakları ile daha çok esneklik sağlanabilmektedir (Yıldıran, 2016). Tekstil sektöründe rekabet avantajı kazanmak isteyen işletmeler hedef politiklalarına yönelik imaj (fiyat, etiket, marka), estetik (çekicilik, görünüm, modaya uygunluk, dizayn, renk, model, fabrikasyon) ve teknik tasarım (kalite, dayanıklılık, beden uygunluğu, rahatlık, biçimi, özeni) gibi tüketicilerin satın alma kararlarında etkili olan kriterleri dikkate alarak hareket etmektedirler (Plumlee ve Little, 2006). ...
In addition to meeting the basic needs of consumers, dressing today has become a means of following fashion, personal image creation and social status. Especially among young people, the perception of fashion with the perception of fashion is rapidly spreading and the effect is seen in many areas in a very short time. The aim of this study is to evaluate the consumption habits of fashion and young people in clothing and to do research on a sample. In this study, the concepts of change in fashion, clothing and
consumer habits will be discussed and the results of the findings will be evaluated by applying the survey method from the quantitative research methods for the target consumers living in the city center of Iskenderun.
... On workers needed for high production processes. Accurate production and process, so that those who have standardized, trained and controlled up to supervision are very important to achieve optimal productivity [6], [7]. Demand for customer and market trends, clothing companies often make progress, companies are involved in the transition process, in the industrial world must face challenges, namely instability in trade environments, to increase the value of money and increase production increases [8]. ...
PT. Sutera Indah Utama is a vertically integrated industry of Textile Company, which supplies domestic and international markets with high quality knit and garment fabrics. PT. Sutera Indah Utama is professionally integrated in-house knitting, knitting coloring, sewing facilities along with supporting facilities, such as screen printing and embroidery. With a fully automatic hanging sewing system, it uses a modern product management system. Therefore the company requires a well-planned planning application, so that it is planned according to the interests and needs of the company. Planning the entire company system in which it has aspects of business and organization called EA. This is used to design company architecture by analyzing, communicating, and integrating architecture in a company. So that business processes reach one of the frameworks and solve or solve a problem, to build an information system in a company that needs a Zachman Framework. IS and IT can be more effective and efficient in supporting a business activity to achieve an organization's or company's goals and interests. With an Enterprise Architecture in the company, it can achieve a goal that is optimally expected according to the company's business strategy.
... In this research study, methods of direct input were not widely used by either company, often due to financial and personnel limitations. This particular finding is also in line with May-Plumblee and Little's (2006) research study. ...
The fashion industry has undergone substantial transformations over the last ten years. Manufacturers and retailers have emphasized on “fast fashion” and quick response to increase their competitive advantage. To address these challenges, companies have to recognize the importance of supply chain management as well as design chain management. In order to explore the opportunities to improve the current design system and to identify the obstacles of the design process, interviews and discussions with practitioners were essential. Based on a series of interviews with two fashion companies in Montreal, four significant areas were identified as essential elements for a successful design chain management system.
(1) To understand customer needs and aspirations
(2) To expedite methods of conceptualization, creation and configuration within the design process
(3) To reduce costs in all aspects of design production
(4) To reduce production lead time of prototype samples
This paper is attempted to identify research opportunities for the future, and offer recommendations for fashion practitioners.
... In other words, direct consumer input was limited. The information discovered in this particular finding was similar to the May-Plumblee and Little's (2006) research study. ...
Fashion industry has been undergone substantial transformation over the years. Fashion houses are no longer working with two collections per year – Fall/Winter and Spring/Summer. Many fashion professionals are working with multiple collections and deliveries every season. They are constantly searching for fresh idea and creating new products in order to meet their customer’s aspirations. ‘Fast fashion’ companies have been successfully using various strategies to reduce the production lead time, increase their competitive advantage and expedite the design process. This research project was undertaken to examine the relationship between designer (ideation), product (innovative design) and consumer (aspirations). Consumption culture was discussed and design issues were identified in this paper. Based on cross-disciplinary literature, a conceptual design model was developed. This paper is attempted to identify research opportunities for the future, offer recommendations for fashion practitioners.
... Similarly, while buying apparel, consumers' decision is significantly influenced by several attributes-product features that deliver the desired consumer benefit (Babin and Harris, 2009). May-Plumlee and Little (2006) suggested 13 universal evaluating criteria for clothes such as brand, price, color, style, design, fabric, uniqueness, care, durability and comfort. Dutton (2006) added fun, country of origin (COO), entertainment, sales person's evaluation, approval of others, function, care and fit on the list. ...
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is threefold: first, to identify a list of fashion attributes preferred by young Bangladeshi consumers while buying casual clothes; second, to test the applicability of Kano’s quality theory in the apparel industry; and, finally, to explore the differences in fashion priorities between male and female consumers.
Design/methodology/approach
This study is based on primary data collected through a survey from 1,177 young consumers of urban Bangladesh. Structural equation modeling was used to develop the attribute index. Also, convergent and discriminant validity and construct reliability of the index were tested.
Findings
The study offers a four-dimensional 19-item index representing the desirable fashion attributes. This paper also confirms the applicability of Kano’s theory in the apparel industry. Results revealed that “well-designed casual attires” and “discount offers” are top-ranking attributes as perceived by both male and female consumers. However, there are differences in the preferences. Women prioritized irritation-free, durable and soft fabric, whereas men preferred attributes such as suitability of color and functionality in the workplace.
Practical implications
The findings of the study provide clothing suppliers of Bangladesh with information that may be utilized while preparing their options. For instance, as casual clothes are frequently worn and washed, a quality fabric that looks good even after several washes is highly recommended. Dress manufacturers need to offer colorful attires to women, whereas for men, more color options should be available. Casual clothes should be made in a way that they are acceptable in the community and workplace.
Originality/value
As research on exploring desirable fashion qualities in developing markets (especially in South Asian region) is rare, this study is contributing to the literature by offering validated apparel attribute index.
... The paradigm of effective management in the apparel industry is related to the prediction of consumer needs and desires. Accordingly, the companies in this sector need to respond with innovation and products that are designed and manufactured properly (DILLARD et al., 2000;LITTLE, 2006). These companies need to develop and manufacture lines of high-quality, diversified and competitively priced products (KWAK et al., 2010). ...
The purpose of this paper was to develop a reference model for the implementation of the process of product development (PDP) for apparel. The tool was developed through an interactive process of comparison between theoretical. Managers in companies and professionals working in this market can utilize the reference model as a source for the organization and improvement of the PDP for apparel and the universities as a reference source for systematized teaching of this process. This model represents the first comprehensive attempt to develop an instrument at a detailed level (macro phases, phases, activities, inputs and outputs at each stage and at the gates) to systematize the PDP process for fashion products and to consider its particularities.
... When these criteria are evaluated based on the countries, it is observed that although the % 18,0 of the Turkish students and the %7,7 of the Cyprus students attribute importance to "the quality of the cloth", %8,2 of the British students prefer their clothes based on "whether it is the most recent fashion" and the %6,2 of them prefer their clothes based on "its being cheap". According to the study which was held by Jenkins and Dickey in 1976, the criteria of evaluating clothes were classified in two dimensions as appearance centered and usability centered (9). Therefore, according to the result obtained from table 5; the expectations of its being the most recent fashion, which is about the appearance, and the issue of quality of the cloth, which is about the usability seem to be parallel with it. ...
This study aims to determine the differences amongst countries in terms of students' preferences of buying clothes and getting dressed who are at the same age and are from the cultures of various countries. The sample of the research consists of 389 students coming from Liverpool of Britain, Nicosia of Cyprus and Turkic Republics who attend the universities in Ankara. The data of the research have been collected by means of the survey which has been prepared in order to determine demographic attributes of the students, their behaviors of buying clothes and their preferences of getting dressed. The collected data have been analyzed by using Statistical Package for the Social Sciences (SPSS 15,0). The relation between the behaviors of the students - to buy clothes- from the cultures of various countries has been evaluated on p<0,05 significance level by using Chi-square (2 ) test. Whether or not there is a difference based on the education, sex and the country regarding the average points of the factors that affect the students' preferences of getting dressed, has been evaluated statistically by making one-way variance analysis (ANOVA) [p<0,05]. In the end of the research, it has been observed that there is significant difference amongst the countries based on the students' meeting their need for dressing, their preparation for shopping for the clothes, their behaviors of keeping pace with the fashion, the reasons for preferring the fashionable clothes and their clothing style. Although there is difference in their preferences for dressing and selection of clothes in terms of sex, there is no significant difference in terms of being affected by environmental factors in selecting clothes. Also, it has been observed that the average points are different from each other based on the countries in getting dressed in terms of their preferences for dressing, the criteria in selecting clothes and the issue of being affected by the environment when getting dressed.
... In general, the consumer considers a low price product the one that is outdated or with low quality. May-Plumlee (2006) pointed out thirteen universal evaluative criteria in clothing products. Dutton (2006) shows that the products' attributes of styling, brand, price, place, production and fiber content have a significant effect on the buyer intention of the consumers in a range of age between 15 to 25 year-old. ...
Mobile Commerce has already begun to have applications in for trade of fashion brands. Collections of Fashion Design were developed for this new trading platform. The materials, profiles and product categories impact the success of sales through Smartphones and Tablets.
The purpose of this study is to examine the collections of fashion design apps of brands and retail chains (available on iPhone and iPad) from the point of view of materials, style and product categories. It is concluded that elastic materials such as knitwear, dresses and t-shirt are privileged,. Pants have the lowest incidence in consumers. The preference attributes associated with mobile commerce depends upon piece variety, multiplicity of style and possibility to coordinate. There are differences in gender that are due to easiness of accessibility, piece personalization, professional advice, videos collections and social networks links and share. Female consumers give more importance to fashion attributes such as satisfaction and comfort, followed by function, while men prefer comfort, followed by satisfaction and, after that, quality. This study concludes that mobile marketing allows customer interaction with brand in a fun way, which in creases customer loyalty.
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... For example, some MC theorists and researchers imply that MC would be most profitable for short runs of high fashion styles (S. Lee, Kunz, Fiore, & Campbell, 2002;May-Plumlee & Little, 2006). However, this perception of MC implementation is in conflict with findings that suggest, in apparel manufacturing, other product line groups (e.g., repeat runs of previous products) are also appropriate for use with MC production systems (Anderson-Connell, Ulrich, & Brannon, 2002). ...
Mass-customization (MC) is a hybrid of mass production and customization, and it offers potential solutions for problems in the apparel industry. This theoretical study contemplates on the contradicting concepts that are combined in the configuration of apparel MC. The study uses the segmentation principle of the Theory of Inventive Problem Solving for an analysis framework. Terms for apparel MC including the levels of modularity and variety and the attributes of design and fit are clarified. This study provides a theoretically grounded explanation of how an effective implementation of apparel MC can solve existing problems in the ready-to-wear industry. To offer a managerial tool to identify an efficient scope of apparel MC, this study proposed structured categories of apparel MC in a matrix based on modularity and variety levels for the attributes of design and fit. Examples of the implementation of MC using the proposed matrix were also provided.
... In recent years a lot of research is going on in the field of electroconductive textile materials for a wide range of applications [1] [2]. Several electric or electronic components have been made using textile materials: conductors and resistors [3] [4], capacitors and batteries [5] [6][7] [8], transistors [9][10] and antennas [11]. ...
The expectancies of humans from textile garments are changing as their life standard increases. Smart textiles respond to these desires. An intensive working life is a cause of stress and fatigue. Moreover, an uncomfortable sleep raises negative feelings. In this regard, the ultimate aim of the study presented in this paper is to create thermal comfortable bed systems. Phase change materials (PCMs) and conductive yarn were used in order to attain this purpose. Four different kinds of mattress ticking fabric were padded with microencapsulated PCM including solutions, which were in different concentration. Octadecane, eicosane and melamine-formaldehyde were used as PCM and microcapsule, respectively. The surface morphology of the treated fabrics was evaluated by Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM), thermal properties were evaluated by Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC).
Having apparel similar to what others are wearing is a basic desire in the fashion world and results in copying. Copying is both easier with technology and more prevalent with the attraction of brands and logos; however, research in the fashion literature is limited in the exploration of copying. To address this gap, this study investigated the definition of copying, the integration of copying technologies into product development, and training within the industry relative to copying and counterfeiting. Ten product development personnel working in the fashion industry were interviewed using an online, structured survey technique. Findings indicate that copying is inherent in the product development process for fashion goods with important implications for education and training about copying and counterfeiting.
Purpose
This study aims to address the aspects of product and process innovation strategies and their determining factors to understand their characteristics in clothing manufacturing and contribution for a successful and competitive clothing industry.
Design/methodology/approach
This general review is based on literature data of previous studies on innovation that transcend and cover the aspects of innovation applicable in the clothing industry. Although the scope of discussion is theoretically broad, it focusses on the context of innovation strategies in clothing manufacturing and the determinant factors indicating the acquisition and implementation of product and process-related innovation activities, simultaneously exploring and linking their implications for adopting, managing and integrating enterprise activities to the values of desired innovation novel models.
Findings
Based on theoretical background and pragmatic generalizations, product and process innovation strategies in clothing manufacturing firms tend to incline more towards computer-integrated technologies and concepts meant to promote product development, process optimization and organizational integration. Industry, technological and R&D factors tend to significantly determine innovation capability of a clothing firm.
Originality/value
This review generates integrated conceptual frameworks for product and process innovation strategies applicable in clothing firms and their determinant factors as prelude to empirical validation.
The design is, by nature, interdisciplinary and collaborative and being so, the contribution of other disciplines is essential to locating the design’s knowledge. Considering the widely interdisciplinary field of fashion and clothing studies, a mixture of methodologies is required. According to Kaiser and Green (2016), the triangulation method makes sense as a methodological approach in fashion studies. In genderless clothing context and by studying genderless fashion, using the triangulation method makes sense in this interdisciplinary fashion research. This paper aims to describe the research methodology and methodological structure of a study that was applied in a fashion doctoral thesis. The methods used in this research to study genderless fashion design are clothes images analysis, a survey, and a proposal of a capsule collection. This interdisciplinarity study, the main issues approached come from different scientific fields, such as gender issues (from the Sociological field), consumer behaviour regarding genderless clothing (from the Marketing field), and genderless fashion design (from the Fashion Design field). This fashion research approach shows that the applied research methodologies converge in new knowledge by building theory through design.
The Indonesian textile industry grew by 15.35 per cent in 2019, whereas previously, it had only seen a growth of around 8.73 per cent. As a result, it occurred to the textile and apparel manufacturers that they needed to enlarge their business lines swiftly. Naisha Hijrah, a designer, producer and textile retailer, sells clothes based on Islamic styles with a post-modernist concept. This study elaborates on how Naisha Hijrah has met its customers’ needs. It also analyses why Naisha Hijrah could become the leading producer and retailer. Naisha Hijrah initially captured the Arabian clothes. This research shows that Naisha’s products have attributes that include crease-free fabric, strong seams, unnoticed fabric fibres, cut patterns, delicate stitching and a design that permits the wearer to perform their ablutions without removing the garment. On the other hand, the technical qualities include many of Naisha’s prioritized fabrics, such as Balotelli and Toyobo, accompanied by zippers designs. Therefore, Naisha develops its product that focuses on technical attributes that Indonesian women prioritize to fulfil their future desires. Finally, this study suggests that Naisha’s robes should combine several kinds of materials in each garment, improve the tailors’ skills, ensure no defects in its production and continuously push the workers to make firmer and smoother stitches. Therefore, Naisha Hijrah should increase sales because it sells what Indonesian women need and love. All this implies that it could be the leading retailer of Islamic fashion items.
The association between clothing fit and body shape is vital to purchasing satisfaction. However, scant research is available on female consumers’ use of this criterion to determine whether an apparel item will suit their body shape. The purpose of this study was to determine the association between female consumers’ perceived body shape and the evaluative criteria they frequently use when making casual clothing purchasing decisions. A group-administered questionnaire was used to collect purposeful and convenient data from 316 female respondents, aged 18–60 plus years, in Gauteng, South Africa. Respondents identified their perceived body shape using Style-Makeover body shape illustrations. They then indicated the importance/unimportance of pre-selected evaluative criteria relating to fit/sizing, style/design, colour/pattern, appearance, appropriateness/acceptability, comfort and fibre content/material when considering a casual blouse/top, skirt/trousers or a dress based on their body shape. Across all three clothing categories, fit/sizing and comfort were the most important evaluative criteria, statistically equally important and differ significantly from the proportions of other evaluative criteria for a casual blouse, skirt/trousers and dress. Women with a diamond body shape attach significantly more importance to the colour/pattern of a casual blouse/top, and women with an oval body shape found the styling/design of a casual skirt/trousers to be important. For a dress, significant associations were found between fit/sizing and women with an hourglass body shape, comfort and the triangle body shape, and colour/patterns and the rectangular body shape. These associations were small but significant, and South African fashion designers may need to consider that women with these body shapes may be less satisfied with current casual retail clothing designs, subsequently emphasizing where clothing fit needs to improve for certain prominent body shapes in South Africa.
This paper develops a strategic profile for positioning ecologically produced apparel (eco-apparel) to make eco-apparel the preferred choice among mainstream apparel customers. This qualitative study employed 24 in-depth interviews involving eco-apparel consumers and managers. Thematic analysis was used to analyze the qualitative data. This research suggests that there is a mismatch between the value expected by apparel consumers and the value offered by eco-apparel. To attract mainstream apparel consumers, environment-friendliness claims need to be implicit while aesthetic claims should be explicit. Perceived psychological risk due to misleading information, combined with the effort required to purchase due to limited availability, has added to the problems of marketing eco-apparel. Eco-apparel companies could consider this study as a guide to develop value and actions for promoting their products to apparel consumers, through the application of the Four Actions Framework. While previous studies have suggested environment-friendliness as a key factor in marketing eco-apparel, this study suggests that environment-friendliness features should not be the emphasis of eco-apparel marketing. This research has determined the customer value proposition for eco-apparel using the Four Actions Framework, and this is a novel approach that has not been applied by previous research in eco-apparel marketing.
Książka przedstawia problematykę efektywności ekonomicznej procesów produkcyjnych i logistycznych. Na podstawie dostępnych danych, wyników badań własnych oraz innych autorów ale też własnych symulacji przedstawiono czynniki tej efektywności i jej znaczenie dla wyników finansowych przedsiębiorstw, w których te procesy są realizowane. Omówiono równie możliwości poprawy tej efektywności dzięki m.in. wykorzystaniu koncepcji zarządzania procesowego (Lean Management, Six-Sigma).
Problematykę tą przedstawiono na przykładzie trzech branż przemysłu rolno- spożywczego, przemysłu dziewiarsko-odzieżowego oraz sektora usług TSL (transport, spedycja, logistyka).
Książka jest podsumowaniem wieloletnich badań autora w dziedzinie efektywności ekonomicznej procesów.
Kundenfeedback im Online-Handel in Form von Produktrezensionen liefern wichtige Informationen über die Kundenwahrnehmung von Produkten. So beschreiben sie verwendete Materialien, Farben, die Passform, das Design und den Anwendungszweck eines Produkts. Das Kundenfeedback liegt hier in unstrukturierter Textform vor, weshalb zur Verarbeitung Ansätze aus dem Gebiet des Natural Language Processing und des maschinellen Lernens von Vorteil sind. In diesem Beitrag wird ein hybrider Ansatz zur Kategorisierung von Produktrezensionen vorgestellt, der die Vorteile des maschinellen Lernens des Word2Vec-Algorithmus und die der menschlichen Expertise vereint. Das daraus resultierende Datenmodell wird im Anschluss anhand einer Praxisanwendung zum Thema Produktempfehlungen demonstriert.
The development of trends of activewear in the everyday life of consumers has been described as emerged as a new trend called athleisure. With comfort characteristics reflected in a sophisticated, yet a relaxed lifestyle (Adorable and Bradbury 2016), Petro (2015), in this way, inspiring the development of leisurewear. For the present research, it is essential to evaluate consumer perception regarding the developed clothing, matching the trends and the satisfaction of the user’s expectations of leisurewear. In this sense, it is purposed to make a process that will be divided into two phases which include a focus group each. This paper aims to build an insight into the consumer satisfaction opinion, related to the most relevant twenty-five factors that characterised this kind of apparel.
Kişilerin tüketici olarak sosyalleşmesi çocukluk dönemlerinde başlar. Çocuklar, küçük yaşlardan itibaren ailelerinin satın alma kararlarını etkileyebilmektedir. Bu araştırmanın amacı, 5-10 yaş aralığındaki çocukların giysi tercihleri ve giysi satın alma davranışlarına etki eden faktörleri belirlemektir. Betimsel araştırma yönteminin kullanıldığı çalışmanın evrenini Edirne merkezdeki farklı sosyo-ekonomik duruma sahip 6 devlet okulunda öğrenim gören 5-10 yaş arası çocuk tüketicilerin aileleri; örneklemini bu okullardan gelişigüzel olarak seçilen 667 öğrenci velisi oluşturmaktadır. Araştırmada veri toplama aracı olarak anket formu kullanılmış, sorular Engel, Kollat ve Blackwell (EKB) tüketici davranış modeline uygun olarak 4 ana bölümde yapılandırılmıştır. Elde edilen veriler SPSS programına aktarılmış, bulgular cinsiyet değişkeni dikkate alınarak çapraz tablolarda verilmiştir. Cinsiyete göre verilen cevapların arasındaki istatistiksel ilişkinin ölçümü için ki-kare ilişki analizi yapılmıştır. Araştırmaya göre çocuk tüketicilerde, giysinin fiziksel olarak vücuda uygunluğu, modeli, kalitesi her iki cinsiyet açısından da her zaman dikkat edilen özellikler olduğu ve çocukların beğendikleri giysi olduğunda mutlaka belli ettikleri saptanmıştır. Çocukların marka konusunda ısrarcı olmadıkları sonucu da dikkat çekicidir.
Apparel micro businesses are not smaller replicas of large businesses. Insight into their unique operations will enable evaluation and improving of processes in order to aid the business sustainability of these micro businesses. It is necessary to understand how product design and development processes are implemented by micro apparel manufacturers that produce custom-made garments, to enable the necessary support for these businesses to be sustainable and then create much needed jobs. A critical literature review on the relevance of existing apparel product development models to the emerging market context is presented. Elements that determine the context within which the apparel product development process was studied and which determine the applicability of the published models to the emerging market context of South African micro apparel manufacturers namely country and company size included in the sample, apparel category that was studied, theoretical framework and research methodology applied to study apparel product development, were compared. Findings reveal that existing apparel product development models are mainly based on large scale production of private label garments and have limited or no applicability to apparel micro businesses that manufacture garments on a small scale, or custom-made garments for individual customers. The contribution of this paper lies in identifying the gaps in the apparel product development literature and directing future research.
Keywords: apparel design, apparel product development, apparel production, custom-made garments, developing country, emerging market, micro business; small business, SMME
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to understand people’s preferred design and functional features for mosquito-bite protective clothing.
Design/methodology/approach
Total 348 participants were asked through an online survey about their perceptions and behaviors related to mosquito bite prevention, preferred design and functional features for clothing, preferred design and functional features for smart clothing, preferred types of transferred data, and their demographic backgrounds. A series of t-tests and analyses of variance were computed using IBM’s SPSS 24.0.
Findings
There were significant differences in functional and design preferences among participants (p<0.05~0.001). The results suggest developing mosquito protective clothing as long pants for married people and outerwear for younger groups (10-40s), long-sleeved tops for all, and using thick fabrics for younger people than those over the 50s. Designers can develop smart clothing that can repel mosquitos through scents and cover the body, or as smart watches or wristbands to protect against mosquito bites. The connected software can present data about the mosquito numbers around the user, distances between the user and mosquitos, and product status. Marketers can target parents who showed more willingness to use the mosquito-bite protective clothing than individuals without children.
Originality/value
The outcomes of the study will help designers when developing mosquito-bite protective clothing and ultimately decrease the rate of diseases transmitted by mosquitos.
New Product Development (NPD) and innovation strategies have merged in contemporary contexts to produce more commercial products in the apparel industry. Performance clothing category is evolutionary, yet current research on the principles employed in the NPD process is inadequate. This study constructs a conceptual framework based on the best-practices for the development of performance clothing category within the broad spectrum of apparel-based products. Qualitative research methods were utilised to construct the conceptual framework by collating the results of the extant literature and ten in-depth interviews carried-out at five leading apparel product development centres in Sri Lanka. The key product engineering variables of performance clothing development were identified based on the interview data and presented in a logical framework to optimise the NPD process of the clothing category in concern. This study can be used as a theoretical guide for future researchers to develop novel apparel product development systems to improve consumer responsiveness and reduce the NPD related cycle time.
New Product Development (NPD) and innovation strategies have
merged in contemporary contexts to produce more commercial products in the apparel industry. Performance clothing category is evolutionary, yet current research on the principles employed in the NPD process is inadequate. This study constructs a conceptual framework based on the best-practices for the development of performance clothing category within the broad spectrum of
apparel-based products. Qualitative research methods were utilised to construct the conceptual framework by collating the results of the extant literature and ten in-depth interviews carried-out at five leading apparel product development centres in Sri Lanka. The key product engineering variables of performance clothing development were identified based on the interview data and presented in a logical framework to optimise the NPD process of the clothing category in concern. This study can be used as a theoretical guide for future
researchers to develop novel apparel product development systems to improve consumer responsiveness and reduce the NPD related cycle time.
Com os consumidores cada vez mais exigentes e a constante concorrência, as organizações necessitam aprimorar-se para atender as necessidades dos clientes. Neste contexto, encontram-se as indústrias têxteis e de vestuário, que tem sentido fortemente os efeitos da competição global, tendo que responder rapidamente às mudanças de estação e moda. O Desdobramento da Função Qualidade (ou QFD - Quality Function Deployment) apresenta-se como um diferencial para o desenvolvimento de produtos, pois proporciona que as percepções da qualidade dos clientes estejam contidas no produto. Nesse sentido, o presente trabalho tem como objetivo demonstrar uma aplicação do QFD no desenvolvimento de vestuário infantil, visto a grande importância do setor têxtil e de vestuário na economia nacional, bem como a grande participação do segmento infantil nesse setor. Um modelo conceitual do QFD com quatro matrizes foi criado e aplicado para o desenvolvimento de uma peça de vestuário infantil. Os resultados da aplicação mostram a grande importância atribuída pelos clientes à segurança e ao conforto. As matrizes relacionaram as qualidades exigidas ao desenvolvimento da peça e do molde, as especificações técnicas das matérias-primas e aos parâmetros do processo de produção, mostrando a influência desses elementos na qualidade do produto final requerida pelo cliente. Concluiu-se que o modelo conceitual desenvolvido mostrou a relação das qualidades exigidas com as etapas de desenvolvimento e produção do produto. Finalmente, considera-se que aplicações desse tipo podem ser usadas em outros tipos de vestuário.
The New Product Development (NPD) is one of the emerging trends among the leading apparel industries to gain and maintain the competitive advantage. The consumers are demanding for value-added innovative products at competitive prices. Hence, the apparel producers are faced with immense pressure to produce new products with unique
features at competitive prices. Therefore, apparel industrialists are insisted to follow systematic NPD process models and with shorter cycle times. In the study, various NPD process models from a verity of diversified industries were critically evaluated, to examine the appropriateness using relevant Performance Indicators (PI) and characteristics. Such evaluation criteria were characterized to screen the most effective NPD models to reflect the unique features of the
product design and development operations of the apparel industry. As concluding remarks, the study shows directions for academics and practitioners to develop result oriented NPD models specifically adoptable for apparel industry.
KEYWORDS: Apparel Industry, New Product Development Models, Performance Indicators
Understanding customers' requirements and competitors' capabilities is important for manufacturers to keep correct development direction within the product design process. A Manufacturer centralised model has been developed by the authors, which helps manufacturers to clarify and to analyse customer's, competitor's and manufacturer's orientation in a strategic manner. It is a challenge task to find an approach to deliver the model so that geographically dispersed team members can share analysis results of the model. The purpose of this research is to utilise state of the art Web oriented technology to distribute this model. Enterprise JavaBeans is utilised to build various components for this model. In addition, Model-View-Control framework is integrated with Enterprise JavaBeans to demonstrate the different way of distributing the model in the Web oriented environment.
Number of service robots is increasing rapidly. This manuscript introduces the process of developing and producing new robot swarm oriented solutions. The product development process focuses on analysing customer needs and requirements for small-series production. The resulting product is used for robot systems evaluation e.g. at educational organisations. As a case study a RFID antenna rack assembly development by using axiomatic design methodology is described in detail.
The aim of this paper is present a process management support to customer integration in the pre-development of new products. The proposal was conceived from a literature review and case studies in five Brazilian companies of the capital goods sector. The process consists of three stages: prospecting customers and their needs, selection of customers and customer integration in pre-development. Each phase involves specific activities and tasks. Decisions and operationalization of this management must occur in Managers level, responsible for the functional areas of Marketing, Sales and Engineering. The main focus of the customer integration en the pre-development of new products is to obtain information more accurate on market needs current and future, thus enabling: 1) translating those needs into opportunities to generate new products and / or new businesses with low risk of failure, 2) improve the attributes and its perception in the market of products offered by the company.
There are two basic peculiarities analyzing organizational capabilities of balancing efficiency and flexibility in organizational and organizational units' levels [34]: supply chain has more possibilities to increase flexibility not reducing efficiency than detached organization; organization as an individual unit has much more possibilities to increase efficiency in proper activities. The purpose of the article is to identify how the international apparel company is balancing efficiency with flexibility and what changes of this alteration were defined by the experience of the company during the past decades. The method of the research: scientific literature analysis, case study, action research.
Research on the subject of clothing behaviors has put forward that consumers have different behaviors, values and expectations in relation to clothing. This study has been planned and carried out to determine the clothing buying behaviors, clothing preferences, opinions and perspectives towards fashion and brandnames of Kyrgyz and Turkish young people. The sample of the study was made up of a total of 318 randomly chosen college students receiving education at various universities in Ankara. 127 of these were Kyrgyz, and 191 were Turkish nationals. The data used in this study were collected via a data acquisition device made up of three parts developed by the author. The interrelationship between the buying behaviors and the opinions on fashion and brandnames of the young people of both countries were evaluated. As a result, it was found that, despite social and cultural differences, both groups showed similar behaviors about clothing in general and gave importance to the quality of the product.
The era of mass manufacturing of clothing and other textile products is coming to an end; what is emerging is a post-industrial production system that is able to achieve the goal of mass-customised, low volume production, where the conventional borders between product design, production and user are beginning to merge. To continue developing knowledge on how to design better products and services, we need to design better clothing manufacturing processes grounded in science, technology, and management to help the clothing industry to compete more effectively. Design of clothing manufacturing processes reviews key issues in the design of more rapid, integrated and flexible clothing manufacturing processes. The eight chapters of the book provide a detailed coverage of the design of clothing manufacturing processes using a systematic approach to planning, scheduling and control. The book starts with an overview of standardised clothing classification systems and terminologies for individual clothing types. Chapter 2 explores the development of standardised sizing systems. Chapter 3 reviews the key issues in the development of a garment collection. Chapters 4 to 7 discuss particular aspects of clothing production, ranging from planning and organization to monitoring and control. Finally, chapter 8 provides an overview of common quality requirements for clothing textile materials. Design of clothing manufacturing processes is intended for R and D managers, researchers, technologists and designers throughout the clothing industry, as well as academic researchers in the field of clothing design, engineering and other aspects of clothing production.
This study examined the processes involved in the design of interior textile products, with emphasis upon processes undertaken by designers’ who are committed to a Design for the Environment (DfE) orientation. Handfield et al. (IEEE TEM 48:189–208, 2001) model of product design and development provided a context by which to explore inclusion of environmental performance criteria within the design process. Data were collected through interviews with twelve professional designers of interior textile products. Analyses revealed six themes or stages in the design process for interior textile products: resources and research, consumer need and trend identification, inspiration, creative exploration, product samples, and design completion. DfE-oriented designers and conventional designers did not differ in their narratives regarding design process however, the focus and scope of decision-making within each theme or stage allowed for an additional component to the DfE-oriented design and development process of interior textile products.
Too many myths prevail about how to manage new product projects. This article probes what truly separates winners from losers in the new product game. It reports the results of a study of 103 new product cases from 21 major firms and divisions in four countries. Key success factors are identified—factors that distinguish the successful projects from the commercial duds. These factors cover a broad spectrum: from elements of competitive advantage to market attractiveness to the way we organize people into project teams. Lessons about how to manage new product projects, and even the types of projects that seem to be most successful, are highlighted. Although the study focuses specifically on the chemical industry, the results appear to have applicability to moderate-to-high-tech industries in general.
There is more than one kind of consumer involvement. Depending on the ante-cedents of involvement (e.g., the product's pleasure value, the product's sign or symbolic value, risk importance, and probability of purchase error), consequences on consumer behavior differ. The authors therefore recommend measuring an in-volvement profile, rather than a single involvement level. These conclusions are based on an empirical analysis of 14 product categories. The degree of consumer involvement in a product cat-egory is now widely recognized as a major variable rel-evant to advertising strategy (Ray 1982; Rothschild 1979; Vaughn 1980). Depending on their level of involvement, individual consumers differ in the extent of their deci-sion process and their search for information. Depending on their level of involvement, consumers may be passive or active when they receive advertising communication, and limit or extend their processing of this communi-cation. To adapt to these differences, advertisers may consider a number of operational variables such as the type of media, the degree of repetition, the length of the message, the tone of the message, and the quantity of information (Tyebjee 1979). In practice, however, one question arises frequently: how can we know whether a specific group of consumers is indeed highly involved in some product category? Today, this question generally receives qualitative as-sessment from advertising and product managers. When quantitative indicators of involvement are used, the in-straments often boil down to a single scale (Vaughn 1980) or to a single-item measure of perceived importance (Agostini 1978; Hupfer and Gardner 1971; Lastovicka and Bonfield 1982; Traylor 1981). Should involvement be reduced to a single dimension? Does "perceived im-portance" alone captures all the richness of the involve-ment concept? Is it sufficient to classify people in terms of a single involvement indicator or should involvement be analyzed in terms of multiple facets, which need to be measured simultaneously if one wants to provide *Gilles Laurent and Jean-Noel Kapferer are Associate Professors, Ecole des Hautes Etudes Commerciales (H.E.C.) and Institut Sup^rieur des Affaires (I.S.A.), Jouy-en-Josas, France. The order of the au-thors' names results from a random drawing. The authors thank the anonymous JMR reviewers and the Editor for their helpful suggestions. managers with a full picture of the type of involvement of a specific target group? Fifteen years ago, in their extensive review of the in-volvement concept, Kiesler, Collins, and Miller (1969) called it a pot-pourri concept which may encompass sev-eral independent elements. More recently Rothschild (1979) concluded that no single indicator of involvement could satisfactorily describe, explain, or predict involve-ment. In line with these remarks, we suggest that mar-keting researchers stop thinking in terms of single in-dicators of the involvement level and instead use an "involvement profile" to specify more fully the nature of the relationship between a consumer and a product category. Our objective is to provide marketing and advertising managers with a scale specifying the nature and level of consumer involvement that is reliable and valid but also convenient. Satisfying the convenience criterion implies that the items should make sense for any product class— from yogurt to bras, from color TV sets to detergents— and that the total number of items allows the scale to be inserted at little extra cost in a usage and attitude survey. In the next section we review the uses of the involve-ment concept, as revealed by the literattire and man-agers' interviews with the authors. This review suggests that consumers differ not only in level of involvement, but also in type of involvement. Then we describe a method by which indicators can be developed for each type of involvement. Finally, data analysis provides evi-dence about the reliability and validity of the indicators as well as the usefulness of thinking in terms of involve-ment profile to predict selected aspects of consumers' decision processes and receptivity to advertising.
Technological advances during the past decade have opened many new doors for the Textile and Apparel industries, especially in the area of rapid prototyping and related activities. We need to have a better understanding of how some of this technology may benefit the textiles industry, how these developing systems can be most successfully implemented, and how we can use these systems to the greatest advantage to serve our customers, today and in the future. A project was developed to explore integration of 3-D body scanning, CAD/CAM, and digital printing technologies to support prototpying and mass customization activities. Patterns altered to fit each specific customer were cut from their digitally printed designs, sewn into the desired garments, and tested for fit. This project allowed us to test the developing rapid prototyping and mass customization paradigms and look for the bugs that are inherent in new technologies. While the process was ultimately successful, several areas were uncovered where the implementation of these processes might be problematic for industry.
There is more than one kind of consumer involvement. Depending on the antecedents of involvement (e.g., the product's pleasure value, the product's sign or symbolic value, risk importance, and probability of purchase error), consequences on consumer behavior differ. The authors therefore recommend measuring an involvement profile, rather than a single involvement level. These conclusions are based on an empirical analysis of 14 product categories.
Quality Function Deployment (QFD) is a process that originated in Japan for managing product development. In this article, Abbie Griffin presents results of a field-based, scientific study of US firms' efforts to implement QFD methods. Her research goals were to understand the QFD process as it is used and implemented, to begin to estimate US product development improvements attributable to QFD and to identify factors linked to QFD's successful use. Based on a study of 35 projects, she found that QFD demonstrated only relatively minor, short-term, measurable impacts on product development performance. Yet, the process may have the potential to improve the development climate in the long term, possibly leading to future, measurable improvements in development performance. Successful projects differed in several ways from those projects that failed in their implementation efforts. Finally, the results suggest several characteristics of product development processes that improve the way products are developed in US companies, including structuring the decision-making processes across functional groups, building a solidly organized, highly motivated team and moving information efficiently from its origin to the ultimate user.
Vijay Mahajan and Jerry Wind report the results of a study conducted to assess the role of new product models in supporting and improving the new product development process. The study focused on current industry practice in deciding which models and methods to use, their shortcomings and desired improvements. The results have implications for developers, suppliers and users of new product forecasting models. The article concludes with a research and implementation agenda to further foster and benefit from advances in new product models.
An interactive multimedia system to assist customers to order bras is described. The system also allows its promoter, Sara Lee Intimates, to gather consumer information which may lead to better customization of its products. The hardware and software used are described. The system is designed for use in retail outlets.
Existing literature clearly documents the importance of new product development to success of a manufacturing firm. Many examples of generic models of the process, including sequential, concurrent, and multiple convergent models, can be found. However, these models are of insufficient detail to provide an adequate foundation for redesigning the apparel product development process. The no-interval coherently phased product development (NICPPD) model for apparel introduced in this paper documents apparel product development as a six phase process with multiple convergent points and coherently phased divisions. The NICPPD model provides for developing both product lines and individual products, developing seasonal lines and multiple seasons annually, and use of alternative development strategies including original design development, knock-offs or take-offs, and modification of existing products. Multiple applications for use of the NICPPD model by both researchers and practitioners in examining and improving the apparel product development process are identified.
The purpose of the study was to investigate consumers' intention to buy apparel items by mail order. More specifically the objectives were (a) to test two conceptual models of consumer behavior in the context of mail order shopping of apparel, especially concerning consumers' beliefs about and attitude toward mail order purchasing of apparel and decision process variables and (b) to identify factors that might distinguish those who have a high level of intention to purchase apparel through mail order from those who have a low intention in terms of decision process variables: individual characteristics, social influences, and situational influences. A random sample of consumers (n=348) was collected via a self-administered questionnaire mailed nationwide. Based on a series of t-tests, the results showed that those who had high intention to utilize mail order purchase of apparel showed significantly higher belief scores on all of the nine attributes of shopping and a more favorable attitude toward mail order purchasing of apparel than did those who had low intention. A stepwise multiple discriminant analysis revealed that two groups of high intention and low intention to utilize mail order shopping for apparel have relatively distinct profiles in terms of individual characteristics, social influences, and situational influences. The paper discusses theoretical implications as well as managerial implications.
Despite the ongoing search for the so‐called silver bullet that provides the ultimate competitive advantage, there is no roadmap showing the “right” way to perform new product development (NPD). What's more, it is highly unlikely that such a formula could be developed. Given the diversity of firms and industries as well as the complexity of the NPD process, no single set of NPD activities or steps can be defined that will be appropriate for all firms.
However, Roger J. Calantone, Shawnee K. Vickery, and Cornelia Droge propose that it is possible to develop such a framework within the confines of a specific industry. They suggest that successful companies within an industry are likely to focus on certain essential NPD activities that allow them to achieve the best possible results within the constraints of their market. Their research is directed toward identifying the relationship between the performance of specific innovation‐related activities and overall business performance in the furniture industry. This study also assesses the relationship between a firm's performance on an NPD activity and the importance assigned to that activity by the firm's chief executive officer (CEO). With the current emphasis on cross‐functional teams, the study also seeks to determine whether performance on a given NPD activity is related to the assignment of responsibility for that activity.
The following NPD activities were evaluated for their effect on corporate performance: customization, new product introduction, design innovation, product development cycle time, product technological innovation, product improvement, new product development, and original product development. Compared to their competitors, top performers consistently put more strategic emphasis on each of these activities. All of these activities have a strong positive influence on return on investment (ROI) and ROI growth. What's more, most of the activities also clearly relate to stronger market share, market share growth, return on sales (ROS), and ROS growth.
The vision and focus on these essential NPD activities must begin with CEOs who recognize their strategic value. Such leaders will direct appropriate staff and technical resources toward performance of the necessary activities. They will also ensure that the organization is sufficiently flexible to accept the changes in responsibilities for coordination and leadership that are necessary during different stages in the NPD process. To gain the product flexibility necessary for competing in numerous market segments, top performers require greater input and leadership from design, engineering, and manufacturing.
The purpose of this study was to investigate the influence of female consumers' employment orientation on lifestyle and evaluative criteria of apparel. Employ ment orientation—a person's attitude toward employment outside of the home—was classified into four distinct segments: Career-Oriented Working Women, Just-a-Job Working Women, Plan-to-Work Housewives, and Stay-at-Home Housewives. A random sample of 2,000 female consumers, ages 25–44, was sent questionnaires resulting in a 45 percent (n = 842) return rate. Principal Compo nents Factor Analysis with Varimax Rotation was used to reduce the number of lifestyle and evaluative criteria items to 11 factors. Analysis of Variance was per formed to determine if influence did occur. Employment orientation did signifi cantly influence lifestyle and evaluative criteria. The four employment orientation groups differed significantly on lifestyle and on the evaluative criteria used in selecting social apparel. In addition, female consumers were segmented into four distinct groups each with its own demographic and psychographic profile. Segmentation by employment orientation provided a richer and more accurate marketing framework than previous consumer profiles, reaffirming that women's employment orientation does change them as consumers and therefore as a target market.
Conjoint studies are aimed at analysing individual preferences based on product profiles. The findings are used either for exploratory or for predictive purposes.One basic paradigm states that the analysis should have an individual orientation. Therefore, the part-worth utilities are estimated on an individual level. The set of relevant attributes, however, is usually supposed to be unique for all respondents. In contrast to this traditional approach, which is only partially individualized, we developed a completely individualized conjoint approach based upon an EDP-assisted information handling system. In addition, we have tested the quality of this completely individualized analysis against the partially individualized analysis.In regard to predictive validity, the completely individualized analyses were, as far as the correct first choice probability criterion is concerned, significantly better than the partially individualized analyses. Thus, we conclude that for commercial analyses conjoint analyses should be based on the individualized conjoint approach.
General issues surrounding product development including company marketing strategies and government regulation are discussed. 11 possible factors contributing to product failure are listed. From this it is concluded that the new product development process should be well defined, documented and communicated and understood throughout the company. Changing emphasis observed in product development and its growing importance are noted. Benchmark parameters used in product development strategy include Sample Adoption Ratio, Seasons Per Year, Manufacturing Cycle, Finance, Textile Inventories and Inventory Turns, On-Time Delivery, Textile Order Cycle, Shipping Cycle Time - there are 19 in all. Quantifying systems integration is also discussed. Two tables show the increase in the number of measures involved in the product development process. Time reduction in the development cycles is now the focus, with structural and technological improvements also important. Market research and analysis with increasing use of consumer panel data, focus groups and in-store testing are more evident.
With the advent of the industrial revolution and interchangeable parts, manufacturing moved from the craft era to the mass production era. Today there is a new era emerging and it is called Mass Customization. Mass Customization takes the best of the craft era, when customers had products built to their specifications but only the elite could afford them, with the best of the mass production era, when everybody could get the same product because it was affordable. This presentation will highlight the development of Mass Customization and how the sewn products industry is positioned to capitalize on it. As progressive companies trade their traditional production concepts and practices for powerful mass customization techniques, this presentation will provide insight into the integration of information technology, mechanization, and team-based flexible manufacturing. Emerging technologies for mass customization such as three-dimensional non-contact body measurement and digital printing will also be discussed.
Quality Function Deployment (QFD) is a process that originated in Japan for managing product development. In this article, Abbie Griffin presents results of a field-based, scientific study of US firms' efforts to implement QFD methods. Her research goals were to understand the QFD process as it is used and implemented, to begin to estimate US product development improvements attributable to QFD and to identify factors linked to QFD's successful use. Based on a study of 35 projects, she found that QFD demonstrated only relatively minor, short-term, measurable impacts on product development performance. Yet, the process may have the potential to improve the development climate in the long term, possibly leading to future, measurable improvements in development performance. Successful projects differed in several ways from those projects that failed in their implementation efforts. Finally, the results suggest several characteristics of product development processes that improve the way products are developed in US companies, including structuring the decision-making processes across functional groups, building a solidly organized, highly motivated team and moving information efficiently from its origin to the ultimate user.
Vijay Mahajan and Jerry Wind report the results of a study conducted to assess the role of new product models in supporting and improving the new product development process. The study focused on current industry practice in deciding which models and methods to use, their short-comings and desired improvements. The results have implications for developers, suppliers and users of new product forecasting models. The article concludes with a research and implementation agenda to further foster and benefit from advances in new product models.
A Doctoral Thesis. Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the award of Doctor of Philosophy of Loughborough University. A system has been developed and is being used at H. M. -Ltd. for estimating the labour and overhead costs of components manufactured by a wide variety of production processes. The system uses multiple linear regression analysis to develop estimating equations that quantitatively measure the relationship between the production time of a component and the factors that influence this time. Production times can then be converted to cost using appropriate labour and overhead cost rates. The system uses design features only for predictor variables in the estimating equations. Hence designers with little concept of manufacturing methods can use the system to cost designs as they evolve. This feature therefore provides designers with a powerful cost optimization tool. The manufacturing time data used to develop estimating equations represents current operating conditions at Herbert Morris Ltd. Hence the estimated times can be used directly as standard times for the planning and control of manufacturing. In this way manufacturing costs will be directly linked to the design features of a product. Software has been developed to allow a computer to retrieve appropriate equations and compute the production times and costs of components. This software could form the basis for a larger system that also generates producibility data for designers. A method of allowing designers to estimate the development times for individual components and assemblies has been developed. This facility enables the design process to be scheduled such that the overall new product development time could be minimized. An important element of this scheduling method is the ability to allocate resources between components to be designed on the basis of relative cost and importance to. the overall success of the project.
Since 1971 conjoint analysis has been applied to a wide variety of problems in consumer research. This paper discusses various issues involved in implementing conjoint analysis and describes some new technical developments and application areas for the methodology.
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