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Reliability of Peak Forces During a Finger Curl Motion Common in Rock Climbing

Authors:
Phillip B. Watts at Northern Michigan University
Phillip B. Watts
Randall L Jensen at Northern Michigan University
Randall L Jensen
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Abstract and Figures

This study was designed to examine the reliability of peak finger force during 4-finger curling in a sample of expert level young competitive rock climbers. The participants (N = 31; 16 boys, 15 girls; 13.0 ± 2.7 years of age) completed 2 maximal finger curls with each hand. Finger force was measured via a piezoelectric force sensor fitted with a plate to accept the first digits of the 4 fingers. Force was applied to the plate/sensor by the fingers via a 3-sec maximal contraction. Reliability of the finger curl for each hand was estimated using a one-way repeated measure analysis of variance (ANOVA) and intraclass test-retest correlation. Reliability of the measurement for the left hand was estimated at R = .947 (.95 confidence interval, .891-.975). Reliability for the right hand was estimated at R = .902 (.95 confidence interval, .796-.953). No significant ( p > .05) differences were found between the 2 trials for either hand. Peak force measurement during maximal finger curls using this protocol and population was judged to be reliable.
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MEASUREMENT IN PHYSICAL EDUCATION AND EXERCISE SCIENCE, 7(4), 263–267
Copyright © 2003, Lawrence Erlbaum Associates, Inc.
Reliability of Peak Forces During
a Finger Curl Motion Common
in Rock Climbing
Phillip B. Watts and Randall L. Jensen
Department of Health, Physical Education and Recreation
Northern Michigan University
This study was designed to examine the reliability of peak finger force during 4-finger
curling in a sample of expert level young competitive rock climbers. The participants
(N= 31; 16 boys, 15 girls; 13.0 ± 2.7 years of age) completed 2 maximal finger curls
with each hand. Finger force was measured via a piezoelectric force sensor fitted with
a plate to accept the first digits of the 4 f ingers. Force was applied to the plate/
sensor by the fingers via a 3-sec maximal contraction. Reliability of the finger curl for
each hand was estimated using a one-way repeated measure analysis of variance
(ANOVA) and intraclass test–retest correlation. Reliability of the measurement for the
left hand was estimated at R= .947 (.95 confidence interval, .891–.975). Reliability
for the right hand was estimated at R= .902 (.95 confidence interval, .796–.953). No
significant ( p> .05) differences were found between the 2 trials for either hand. Peak
force measurement during maximal finger curls using this protocol and population
was judged to be reliable.
Key words: finger strength, fitness testing, grip strength, rock climbing
Competitive rock climbers often characterize the reason for failure on a given climb-
ing move or for falling as an inability to generate and/or sustain the finger force
(FF) necessary to maintain contact with the rock. A number of researchers have re-
ported maximum hand strength in rock climbers as measured via standard handgrip
dynamometry; however, the range of scores (≈32–35 kg in girls and 45–59 kg in
boys) has not been unusually high in relation to population norms (Cutts & Bollen,
Requests for reprints should be sent to Phillip B. Watts, Department of Health, Physical Education
and Recreation, Northern Michigan University, 1401 Presque Isle Avenue, Marquette, MI 49855.
E-mail: pwatts@nmu.edu
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1993; Grant et al., 2001; Grant, Hynes, Whittaker, & Aitchison, 1996; Mermier,
Janot, Parker, & Swan, 2000; Watts, Martin, & Durtschi, 1993; Watts, Newbury,
& Sulentic, 1996). Watts (2000) suggested that standard handgrip dynamometry
lacks specificity with most common hand and f inger positions used in rock climb-
ing. Handgrip dynamometry involves opposition of the fingers and the thumb dur-
ing force measurement; whereas, in rock climbing, there are many FF application
positions that do not involve the thumb. Grant et al. (1996) developed a FF meas-
urement device that employed a strain gauge interfaced with a flexible steel plate.
The detection of peak force with this device appeared to depend heavily upon ob-
servation by the operator and reliability data were not reported in this study. The in-
vestigators designed a FF measurement system similar to that of Grant et al. (1996).
This new instrument measures force via a piezoelectric sensor and acquires data via
a computer-based system to remove observer error. No other published results were
found of the reliability of finger strength using this type of protocol and instrumen-
tation. This study was designed to examine the reliability of peak force exerted
during a finger curl motion common in rock climbing.
METHOD
Participants
Written informed consent was obtained from 31 young competitive rock climbers
(16 boys, 15 girls; 13.0 ± 2.7 years of age) who volunteered to participate. The rock
climbers competed in 12 ± 4 competitions during the past year. Mean self-
reported climbing ability was 5.11 with a range of 5.10 to 5.13 on the Yosemite Dec-
imal System (YDS) scale (Watts, 1996). The YDS scale is a subjective scale that rates
the difficulty of specific climbing routes. The “5.” indicates technical free climbing
where artificial aids are not used to assist progress and the numbers following the “5.”
(i.e. 5.9, 5.10, 5.11 etc.,) indicate increasing ratings of difficulty (Watts, 1996). The
YDS scale ranged from 5.0 to 5.14 worldwide at the time of this study.
Measurements
The FF measurement device consisted of a piezoelectric force sensor (PCB
Piezotronics 208A13) fitted with a rigid plate that accepted the f irst digits of four
fingers. The force sensor/plate was mounted onto an incremented adjustable steel
support via a moveable bracket. The moveable bracket enabled the level of the sen-
sor/plate to be positioned for different arm lengths (Figure1A). The elbow of the
participant was flexed to 90° and placed firmly on a thinly padded wooden support
base with the forearm vertical. The level of the sensor/plate was standardized for
264 WATTS AND JENSEN
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each person as the distance from the elbow position on the support base to the me-
dial interphalangeal joint of the middle finger when the hand and fingers were ex-
tended vertically. This set-up produced a finger position equivalent to an “open
grip” as employed in rock climbing (Figure 1B). Force was applied to the
plate/sensor by the fingers via a 3-sec maximal contraction. Each participant per-
formed two maximal force applications with each hand in a randomized order. A
minimum of 60-sec rest was imposed between trials. Data were acquired at 500 Hz
via a Biopac MP 100 system. Biopac Acqknowledge 3.6 software was used to de-
termine the peak force amplitude for each trial.
Statistical Analysis
Statistical analyses were performed using the Statistical Program for the Social
Sciences version 11.0.1 (SPSS, 2001). Reliability of the peak FF for each hand
was estimated by using a one-way repeated measures analysis of variance
(ANOVA) and intraclass test–retest correlation (Morrow & Jackson, 1993).
RESULTS
Means for the two test trials for each hand are presented in Table 1. The relia-
bility of peak FF for the left hand was estimated at R= .947 (.95 confidence
RELIABILITY OF FINGER FORCE 265
FIGURE 1 A—Adjustable device for measurement of finger force. B—Position of the arm
and hand during a trial with the left hand.
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interval, .891–.975). No significant ( p> .05) differences were found between
the two trials. For the right hand, peak FF reliability was estimated at R= .902
(.95 confidence interval .796–.953). Similar to the left hand, there were no sig-
nificant ( p> .05) differences between the two trials.
DISCUSSION
The FF measurement system employed in this study elicited reproducible re-
sponses for peak finger curl forces of both hands. The demonstration of the high
reliability of this measurement instrument should open avenues for future study of
the degree of fatigue that occurs with various rock tasks and the nature of fatigue
specific to the f inger curl task. This measurement instrument should also be use-
ful in the evaluation of the effectiveness of training programs designed to improve
finger curl strength.
The type of measurement device employed in this project could be useful in
the study of specific FF in rock climbers. Grant et al. (1996, 2001) reported dif-
ferences in finger strength between elite climbers and nonclimbers. Data for
age- and sex-matched nonclimbers were not available to make such a compari-
son with our instrument. This type of finger strength measurement may be pre-
dictive of performance among climbers of different abilities, however, this has
not been established.
Whether scores could be compared between our instrument and other similar
instruments is unknown. Grant et al. (1996, 2001) tested the application of force
onto a flexible plate connected to a strain gauge; whereas, with our system, force
was applied directly to the force sensor via a rigid plate. Possibly the two different
instrument designs would yield different peak force results.
In this study on reliability, men and women were analyzed as one group be-
cause the intraclass reliability coefficient is a comparison within individuals.
No comparison was made across gender. Grant et al. (1996, 2001) have docu-
mented the gender differences in finger curl force. The peak FFs recorded in this
study (approximately 26–28 kg) were lower than those recorded by Grant et al.
(1996, approximately 45 kg in men; 2001, approximately 32 kg in women). Our
266 WATTS AND JENSEN
TABLE 1
Means and Standard Deviations for Two Trials of Peak Finger Force for the Left Hand
and Right Hand (N= 31)
Left Hand Right Hand
Condition M SD Min Max M SD Min Max
Trial 1 (kg) 26.1 9.2 11.1 56.9 27.4 8.4 13.2 48.3
Trial 2 (kg) 27.3 8.6 13.7 52.3 28.4 8.9 12.4 52.5
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participants, however, were considerably younger than the adults used in these
two earlier studies, thus, the age differential could account for much of the dif-
ferences.
In summary, peak finger curl force is a highly reproducible measurement.
Whether this measurement is valid when compared to other criterion measure-
ment methodologies awaits further investigation.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
The authors wish to acknowledge Professors Michael J. Cauley and Thomas J.
Meravi of the Department of Engineering Technology at Northern Michigan Uni-
versity for their help in the design and construction of the FF test device employed
in this study.
REFERENCES
Cutts, A., & Bollen, S. R. (1993). Grip strength and endurance in rock climbers. Proceedings of the
Institution of Mechanical Engineers, 207(2), 87–92.
Grant, S., Hasler, T., Davies, C., Aitchison, T. C., Wilson, J., & Whittaker, A. (2001). A comparison of
the anthropometric, strength, endurance, and flexibility characteristics of female elite and recre-
ational climbers and non-climbers. Journal of Sports Sciences, 19(7), 499–505.
Grant, S., Hynes, V., Whittaker, A., & Aitchison, T. (1996). Anthropometric, strength, endurance and
flexibility characteristics of elite and recreational climbers. Journal of Sports Sciences, 14,
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Mermier, C. M., Janot, J. M., Parker, D. L., & Swan, J. G. (2000). Physiological and anthropometric
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Morrow, J. R., & Jackson, A. W. (1993). How “significant” is your reliability? Research Quarterly for
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Watts, P. B. (1996). Rock Climbing. Champaign, IL: Human Kinetics.
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Watts, P. B., Newbury, V., & Sulentic, J. (1996). Acute changes in handgrip strength, endurance, and
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RELIABILITY OF FINGER FORCE 267
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  • Dec 2022
  • WILD ENVIRON MED
Introduction: In climbing, research is needed to guide clinical and training advice regarding strength differences between hands. The objectives of this study were to establish test-retest reliability of a field-based apparatus measuring sport-specific unilateral isometric hand strength and to investigate whether these measures detect between-hand differences in climbers with and without a history of unilateral hand injury. Methods: A reliability and case-control injury study was carried out. Seventeen intermediate-advanced climbers without and 15 intermediate-advanced climbers with previous unilateral hand injury participated. Unilateral isometric fingertip flexor strength was assessed during maximal voluntary contraction (MVC) and peak rate of force development (RFD) tests in full-crimp overhead position. The magnitude of within-group between-hand differences was calculated using a generalized estimating equation to evaluate if prior injury was associated with lower MVC and RFD outcomes and whether hand dominance influenced the magnitude of these effects. The control group was assessed 1 wk later to determine intraclass correlation coefficients (ICCs) for all measures. Results: The MVC (ICC 0.91-0.93) and the RFD (ICC 0.92-0.83) tests demonstrated moderate-to-high reliability. When accounting for handedness, those with prior injury showed 7% (P=0.004) reduced MVC and 13% (P=0.008) reduced RFD in the injured hand. The nondominant hand was also significantly weaker in MVC (11%, P<0.001) and RFD (12%, P=0.02) outcomes. For uninjured climbers, MVC and RFD were not significantly higher in the dominant hand (differing by 4% and 5%, respectively). Conclusions: Previous climbing injury was associated with persistent weakness in the injured limb and exacerbated handedness effects. Therefore, recommendations for rehabilitation should be considered.
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Historical Development of a Physiological Model for Rock Climbing Performance
Chapter
  • May 2022
Successful performance in rock climbing is physically demanding and involves the integration of many factors associated with production of the work required to ascend over specific terrain. Recreational climbers may find success through maintenance of a high level of general physical fitness; however, performance at the highest levels likely requires physiological adaptations likened to that of high-performance athletes. This chapter will explore the more notable physiological aspects of high-level rock climbing. The objective is to provide a brief historical overview of the development of a theoretical physiological model for high-level climbing performance. The chapter is not intended as a comprehensive review of research to date. For a more complete exploration, the reader is referred to the published reviews of Watts (Watts, Eur J Appl Physiol. 91(4):361–72, 2004) and Saul et al. (Saul et al., J Exerc Sci Fit. 17:91–100, 2019).
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Physiological and anthropometric determinants of sport climbing performance
Article
Full-text available
  • Nov 2000
To identify the physiological and anthropometric determinants of sport climbing performance. Forty four climbers (24 men, 20 women) of various skill levels (self reported rating 5.6-5.13c on the Yosemite decimal scale) and years of experience (0.10-44 years) served as subjects. They climbed two routes on separate days to assess climbing performance. The routes (11 and 30 m in distance) were set on two artificial climbing walls and were designed to become progressively more difficult from start to finish. Performance was scored according to the system used in sport climbing competitions where each successive handhold increases by one in point value. Results from each route were combined for a total climbing performance score. Measured variables for each subject included anthropometric (height, weight, leg length, arm span, % body fat), demographic (self reported climbing rating, years of climbing experience, weekly hours of training), and physiological (knee and shoulder extension, knee flexion, grip, and finger pincer strength, bent arm hang, grip endurance, hip and shoulder flexibility, and upper and lower body anaerobic power). These variables were combined into components using a principal components analysis procedure. These components were then used in a simultaneous multiple regression procedure to determine which components best explain the variance in sport rock climbing performance. The principal components analysis procedure extracted three components. These were labelled training, anthropometric, and flexibility on the basis of the measured variables that were the most influential in forming each component. The results of the multiple regression procedure indicated that the training component uniquely explained 58.9% of the total variance in climbing performance. The anthropometric and flexibility components explained 0.3% and 1.8% of the total variance in climbing performance respectively. The variance in climbing performance can be explained by a component consisting of trainable variables. More importantly, the findings do not support the belief that a climber must necessarily possess specific anthropometric characteristics to excel in sport rock climbing.
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Physiology of difficult rock climbing
Article
Full-text available
  • May 2004
The purpose of this review is to explore existing research on the physiological aspects of difficult rock climbing. Findings will be categorized into the areas of an athlete profile and an activity model. An objective here is to describe high-level climbing performance; thus the focus will primarily be on studies that involve performances at the 5.11/6c (YDS/French) level of difficulty or higher. Studies have found climbers to be small in stature with low body mass and low body fat. Although absolute strength values are not unusual, strength to body mass ratio is high in accomplished climbers. There is evidence that muscular endurance and high upper body power are important. Climbers do not typically possess extremely high aerobic power, typically averaging between 52-55 ml.kg(-1).min(-1) for maximum oxygen uptake. Performance time for a typical ascent ranges from 2 to 7 min and oxygen uptake (VO2) averages around 20-25 ml.kg(-1).min(-1) over this period. Peaks of over 30 ml.kg(-1).min(-1) for VO2 have been reported. VO2 tends to plateau during sustained climbing yet remains elevated into the post-climb recovery period. Blood lactate accumulates during ascent and remains elevated for over 20 min post-climbing. Handgrip endurance decreases to a greater degree than handgrip strength with severe climbing. On the basis of this review, it appears that a specific training program for high-level climbing would include components for developing high, though not elite-level, aerobic power; specific muscular strength and endurance; ATP-PC and anaerobic glycolysis system power and capacity; and some minimum range of motion for leg and arm movements.
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Grip Strength and Endurance in Rock Climbers
Article
  • Feb 1993
The performance of competition climbers in laboratory-based tests of pinch and whole hand grip strength and endurance was compared to that of non-climbers of the same age, sex and physique. Climbers performed significantly better, indicating higher stresses acting in the flexor mechanism, possibly predisposing injury. Attempts were made to correlate the performance in the tests to climbing achievement, measured by current technical climbing standards. Although pinch grip strength increased with the length of climbing experience, there was no evidence that strength in the hands alone guarantees success in competition climbing.
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Anthropometric profiles of elite male and female competitive sport rock climbers
Article
  • May 1993
Over the past few years, competitive rock climbing--for a long time a popular sport in Europe--has increased in popularity in North America. An annual international World Cup competition circuit was started in 1988 which has shown growing success and a definite elite group of athletes has emerged. Descriptive anthropometric profiles of elite climbers have been unavailable. In order to fill this information void, 39 world-class climbers (21 males, 18 females) were assessed immediately prior to competition at an international World Cup sport climbing championship. All of the subjects tested were competition semi-finalists and, among these, seven males and six females advanced to the finals. The variables measured included age, years of climbing experience, height, body mass, height-weight ratio, sum of seven skinfolds, % body fat, fat-free mass, hand and arm volumes via plethysmography, average of right and left grip strengths, grip strength to body mass ratio (SMR), and climbing ability defined as the most difficult route climbed on lead. The results indicated that elite sport climbers are of small to moderate stature and exhibit very low % fat, moderate grip strength and high SMR when compared with other athletic groups. Values for the height-weight ratio and sum of seven skinfolds in the female finalists were very near those of the male finalists, which may indicate that reduction of body mass and % fat are primary adaptations in these female athletes. Climbing ability was predictable from SMR and % fat, though the R2 was low.
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Anthropometric, strength, endurance and flexibility characteristics of elite and recreational climbers
Article
  • Sep 1996
There has been remarkable development in the scope and quality of rock climbing in recent years. However, there are scant data on the anthropometry, strength, endurance and flexibility of rock climbers. The aim of this study was to compare these characteristics in three groups of subjects-elite rock climbers, recreational climbers and non-climbers. The 30 male subjects were aged 28.8 +/- 8.1 (mean +/- S.D.) years. Group 1 (n = 10) comprised elite rock climbers who had led a climb of a minimum standard of 'E1' (E1-E9 are the highest climbing grades) within the previous 12 months; Group 2 (n = 10) comprised rock climbers who had achieved a standard no better than leading a climb considered 'severe' (a low climbing grade category); and Group 3 (n = 10) comprised physically active individuals who had not previously done any rock climbing. The test battery included tests of finger strength [grip strength, pincer (i.e. thumb and forefinger) strength, finger strength measured on climbing-specific apparatus], body dimensions, body composition, flexibility, arm strength and endurance, and abdominal endurance. The tests which resulted in significant differences (P < 0.05) between the three groups included the bent arm hang (elite 53.1 +/- 1.32 s; recreational 31.4 +/- 9.0 s; non-climbers 32.6 +/- 15.0 s) and pull-ups (elite 16.2 +/- 7.2 repetitions; recreational 3.0 +/- 4.0 reps; non-climbers 3.0 +/- 3.9 reps); for both tests, the elite climbers performed significantly better than the recreational climbers and non-climbers. Regression procedures (i.e. analysis of covariance) were used to examine the influence of body mass and length. Using adjusted means (i.e. for body mass and leg length), significant differences were obtained for the following: (1) finger strength, grip 1, four fingers (right hand) (elite 447 +/- 30 N; recreational 359 +/- 29 N; non-climbers 309 +/- 30 N), (2) grip strength (left hand) (elite 526 +/- 21 N; recreational 445 +/- 21 N; non-climbers 440 +/- 21 N), (3) pincer strength (right hand) (elite 95 +/- 5 N; recreational 69 +/- 5 N; non-climbers 70 +/- 5 N) and (4) leg span (elite 139 +/- 4 cm; recreational 122 +/- 4 cm; non-climbers 124 +/- 4 cm). For tests 3 and 4, the elite climbers performed significantly better than the recreational climbers and non-climbers for any variable. These results demonstrate that elite climbers have greater shoulder girdle endurance, finger strength and hip flexibility than recreational climbers and non-climbers. Those who aspire to lead 'E1' standard climbs or above should consider training programmes to enhance their finger strength, shoulder girdle strength and endurance, and hip flexibility.
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Acute changes in handgrip strength, endurance, and blood lactate with sustained sport rock climbing
Article
  • Jan 1997
Modern rock climbers stress the importance of hand-to-rock contact strength as a factor for success in competitive sport climbing events, however, the degree of handgrip fatigue that occurs during difficult climbing and the time course of recovery from fatigue have not been previously described. The purpose of this study was to characterize the nature of handgrip fatigue that results from difficult continuous climbing until a fall occurs. Eleven expert-level rock climbers (age = 28.7 +/- 4.5 years) volunteered to climb continuous laps over a pre-set competition-type route on an indoor modular climbing wall until a fall occurred. The route difficulty (YDS rating of 5.12 a) was near the limit of each subject's "on-sight" lead climbing ability and placed an emphasis on physically difficult movements. "On-sight" refers to a climbing style where the climber ascends the route on the first try without falls and without prior viewing or information about the route. Practice was allowed to enable each subject to master the individual technical movements of the route. Fingertip blood samples were obtained 10 min pre-climb, at post-climb, and at 5-, 10-, and 20-min recovery and analyzed for lactate. Maximum handgrip force in Newtons was determined via dynamometry for each hand and averaged for pre-climb, post-climb, and 5-, 10-, and 20-min recovery periods. Right handgrip endurance, defined as the time that the dominant hand handgrip force could be sustained above 70 percent of handgrip strength, was determined pre-climb, post-climb, and at 20-min recovery. Mean climbing time during testing was 12.9 +/- 8.5 min for 2.8 +/- 2.2 laps over the route. Data among measurement times were analyzed using a repeated measures ANOVA with Newman-Keuls post hoc tests. Handgrip strength decreased by 22 percent and handgrip endurance decreased by 57 percent from pre-climb to post-climb and both remained depressed after 20 minutes of resting recovery. The pre-climb blood lactate of 1.4 +/- 0.8 mmol.l-1 significantly increased to 6.1 +/- 1.4 mmol.l-1 at post-climb and remained elevated (2.3 +/- 0.8 mmol.l-1) at 20-min recovery. Percent decreases in handgrip strength were significantly correlated with climbing time (R = 0.70), number of laps completed (R = 0.70), and blood lactate (R = 0.76). Percent decreases in handgrip endurance were significantly correlated with climbing time (R = 0.70) and number of laps completed (R = 0.80), but not with blood lactate (R = 0.56). It was concluded that handgrip strength and handgrip endurance decrease with continuous difficult rock climbing and remain depressed after 20 minutes of resting recovery. It also appears that handgrip strength recovers at a faster rate than handgrip endurance.
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A comparison of the anthropometric, strength, endurance and flexibility characteristics of female elite and recreational climbers and non-climbers
Article
  • Aug 2001
There is limited information on the anthropometry, strength, endurance and flexibility of female rock climbers. The aim of this study was to compare these characteristics in three groups of females: Group 1 comprised 10 elite climbers aged 31.3 +/- 5.0 years (mean +/- s) who had led to a standard of 'hard very severe'; Group 2 consisted of 10 recreational climbers aged 24.1 +/- 4.0 years who had led to a standard of 'severe'; and Group 3 comprised 10 physically active individuals aged 28.5 +/- 5.0 years who had not previously rock-climbed. The tests included finger strength (grip strength, finger strength measured on climbing-specific apparatus), flexibility, bent arm hang and pull-ups. Regression procedures (analysis of covariance) were used to examine the influence of body mass, leg length, height and age. For finger strength, the elite climbers recorded significantly higher values (P < 0.05) than the recreational climbers and non-climbers (four fingers, right hand: elite 321 +/- 18 N, recreational 251 +/- 14 N, non-climbers 256 +/- 15 N; four fingers, left hand: elite 307 +/- 14 N, recreational 248 +/- 12 N, non-climbers 243 +/- 11 N). For grip strength of the right hand, the elite climbers recorded significantly higher values than the recreational climbers only (elite 338 +/- 12 N, recreational 289 +/- 10 N, non-climbers 307 +/- 11 N). The results suggest that elite climbers have greater finger strength than recreational climbers and non-climbers.
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