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The market for lightweight next-to-skin knitted wool fabrics requires a reliable tactile sensory or handle assessment system. In this paper, eight bipolar pairs of fabric tactile attributes to describe the tactile sensory properties of fifty-two next-to-skin knitted fabrics were evaluated by twelve experienced trained judges. Principal component an...
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... lightweight knitted fabrics were collected as next-to-skin products from fabric supply chains based in Australia, New Zealand, the USA, Europe and China. The information about fabric weight and thickness is listed in Table 1. ...Context 2
... partial least squares regression (PLS-R) was used for this analysis, and constrained problems of collinearity among the primary tactile attributes. Table 3. A summary of selections of judges for each of the tactile attributes of next-to-skin knitted fabrics Attribute OH RS HS LT HL HC WC GD Judges J2-J12 J1-J12 J1-J7, J11-J12 J1, J4-J12 J1-J8, J10-J12 J2 -J7, J9 -J10, J12 J1-J3, J5-J9, J11-J12 J1-J6, J8-J10 J12 As indicated in the total explained variance plot (Figure 3), three PCs (or factors) were suggested for the initial model by cross validation. These three PCs were sufficient to explain approximately 91% variance of Overall Tactile (i.e. ...Citations
... The investigation by used the Wool HandleMeter, which has been recently developed to measure the handle parameters of knitted single jersey fabric (Mahar & Wang, 2010;Wang, Mahar, & Postle, 2013b;Wang et al., 2013a). The Wool HandleMeter is based on the ring test whereby a circular fabric sample is pushed or pulled through a circular orifice and the forces are recorded. ...
... However, the associated force by displacement curve is quantified by a set of eight objective parameters, and these are used to predict a set of seven bipolar handle attributes suitable to describe light weight single jersey knitted fabrics. These descriptors were shown to be sufficient to describe the primary tactile attributes of lightweight single jersey fabrics as determined by a panel of experts (Mahar & Wang, 2010;Wang et al., 2013aWang et al., , 2013b. ...
... These sensations are a function of contact area between the fingers and fabric and, for example, greater roughness or greater hairiness reduces the effective contact surface area, and consequently reduces heat flow. Cool/warm is not related to insulation value which is related only to fabric thickness (Wang et al., 2013a(Wang et al., , 2013b. Similarly, there were no effects of wool fibre curvature detected on the fabric rough/smooth handle with all values tending to be towards the rougher end of handle assessments (Table 4). ...
The handle properties of single jersey fabrics composed of superfine wools (17 μm) of different fibre curvature (114 vs. 74 °/mm) in blends with cashmere (fibre curvature 49 °/mm) were investigated. There were four blend ratios of cashmere (0, 25, 50, 75%) plus 100% cashmere. Each of the nine fibre blend combinations were replicated three times, and each was knitted into three tightness factors. The 81 fabrics were evaluated using the Wool HandleMeter, which measures seven primary handle attributes and Overall handle, and have been calibrated using a panel of experts and a wide variety of commercial fabrics. Results were analysed by ANOVA and general linear modelling. Tightness factor significantly affected all Wool HandleMeter attribute values, with the effect of tightness factor varying according to handle attribute. The Wool HandleMeter was able to detect differences between fabrics composed of superfine wool differing in fibre curvature, with lower fibre curvature wool fabrics having more preferred Overall handle and softer, looser, cooler, lighter and less dry handle attributes at some or all tightness factors compared with fabrics composed of higher fibre curvature superfine wool. Progressively blending cashmere with wool significantly improved Overall handle, increased soft and smooth handle, reduced dry, heavy and tight handle. Linear regression modelling indicated that fabric mass per unit area explained more than 50% of the variance in overall fabric handle and in combination with variations in fabric thickness and yarn elongation could explain 71% of the variance in Overall handle.
... 7,[10][11][12] The Wool HandleMeter is a recently developed device to measure the handle parameters of knitted single jersey fabric. [13][14][15] The Wool HandleMeter is based on the ring test whereby a circular fabric sample is pushed or pulled through a circular orifice and the recorded forces related to KES-F handle values, 16 fabric mass per unit area, bending rigidity and bending hysteresis. 17 Pan and Yen 18 related the force by displacement curves to 16 fabric mechanical properties measured by the KES-F system. ...
... These descriptors were shown to be sufficient to describe the primary tactile attributes of lightweight single jersey fabrics as determined by a panel of experts. [13][14][15] While those reports provided a robust demonstration of the potential of the Wool HandleMeter to assess a range of fabrics, some of the unexplained variance from the analysis is likely to be related to some of the non-wool fabrics. As the main purpose for the development of both the Wool HandleMeter and the Wool ComfortMeter was to evaluate the comfort and handle properties of lightweight wool knitwear, the earlier analysis may not provide precise assessment of the performance of these new instruments for the assessment of knitted pure wool fabrics worn next to skin. ...
The relationships between wearer-assessed comfort and objectively measured comfort and handle parameters were investigated using 19 pure wool single jersey garments made of single ply yarns. Wearer trials were used to determine prickle discomfort, and whether wearers ‘‘liked’’ the garments. Fabrics then were objectively evaluated using the Wool HandleMeter, which measures seven primary handle attributes; and the Wool ComfortMeter (WCM), to predict a wearer’s perception of fabric-evoked prickle. Wearer responses and the relationships within and between objective measurements and the effect of fibre, yarn and fabrics attributes were analysed by general linear modelling. Mean fibre diameter, fibre diameter coefficient of variation, yarn count, fabric thickness, fabric density, fabric mass per unit area and
decatising affected one or more handle parameters. The best model for predicting wearer prickle discomfort accounted for 90.9% of the variance and included only terms for the WCM and WCM2. The WCM was a good predictor whereas mean fibre diameter was a poor predictor of whether wearers ‘‘liked’’ garments. Wearer assessment of prickle and whether or not wearers ‘‘liked’’ fabrics were independent of fabric handle assessment. The results indicate that the handle and comfort properties of lightweight, wool jersey fabrics can be quantified accurately using the Wool HandleMeter and the Wool ComfortMeter. For fabric handle, fibre and yarn characteristics were less important than changes in the properties of the fabric
This review explores research and development in wool metrology to date. In doing so, it highlights the research work undertaken by three organisations, in particular, to the development of wool and textile metrology research covering all of the important physical properties of wool. Three key wool research centres at the beginning of the twenty-first century were CSIRO's Division of Textile and Fibre Technology at Belmont near Geelong, Victoria, the School of Fibre Science and Technology, University of NSW at Kensington, NSW in Australia, and the Wool Research Organisation of New Zealand Inc. at Lincoln near Christchurch, New Zealand. Due to funding pressures between 1997 and 2007, these centres either ceased to operate or were absorbed into larger, non-wool-focused organisations. The substantial contribution to the world's wool metrology literature made by their staff and graduates, over the period when the three organisations had around 300–500 staff involved in wool-related research activities, is recognised. The review analyses the research undertaken on wool properties to identify gaps that might be exploited through the application of new or novel use of technologies by the next generation of wool metrologists. The analysis indicates that although the main fibre/fleece characteristics which currently affect the pricing and trading of Merino wool are able to be readily and accurately measured, there remains considerable work to be done in linking wool measurements to the prediction of performance both in processing and in the final product.
