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2 The crystal structure of lignin peroxidase at 1.70 Å resolution obtained from Protein Data Base and catalytic cycle of lignin peroxidase. Adapted with permission from Gold, M.H., Wariishi, H., Valli, K., 1989. Extracellular peroxidases involved in lignin degradation by the white rot basidiomycete Phanerochaete chrysosporium. In: Whitaker, J., Sonnet, P. (Eds.), Biocatalysis in Agricultural Biotechnology. Toronto, Ontario, Canada: American Chemical Society, 127-140.
Source publication
The field of personal care products is clearly the most inventive rapidly evolving area. As the lines between cosmetics and drugs become increasingly blurred due to advanced understanding of human physiology, so do the topical effects of these nonprescription products. As all biological processes are based upon the activity of enzymes, these biocat...
Citations
... The borderlines between cosmetics and drugs have become increasingly blurred due to the ever more advanced understanding of human physiology. As physiological processes are based on catalytic activity of enzymes, these biocatalysts are also essential for health and body care [2]. Enzymes break up complicated inactive molecules in the skin and convert them into more straightforward and frequently active ones. ...
The application of enzyme-based therapies has received significant attention in modern drug development. Lipases are one of the most versatile enzymes that can be used as therapeutic agents in basic skin care and medical treatment related to excessive sebum production, acne, and inflammation. The traditional formulations available for skin treatment, such as creams, ointments or gels, are widely applied; however, their use is not always accompanied by good drug penetration properties, stability, or patient adherence. Nanoformulated drugs offer the possibility of combining enzymatic and small molecule formulations, making them a new and exciting alternative in this field. In this study polymeric nanofibrous matrices made of polyvinylpyrrolidone and polylactic acid were developed, entrapping lipases from Candida rugosa and Rizomucor miehei and antibiotic compound nadifloxacin. The effect of the type of polymers and lipases were investigated, and the nanofiber formation process was optimized to provide a promising alternative in topical treatment. Our experiments have shown that entrapment by electrospinning induced two orders of magnitude increase in the specific enzyme activity of lipases. Permeability investigations indicated that all lipase-loaded nanofibrous masks were capable of delivering nadifloxacin to the human epidermis, confirming the viability of electrospinning as a formulation method for topical skin medications.
... There is an increasing interest in the usage of biopolymeric materials as enzyme immobilizers, due to their tunability, biocompatibility, and biodegradability, as the properties of main importance in the biomedical and biotechnological fields, while also adding the enzymatic activity for applications such as bioremediation, wound debridement, personal care products, food-related applications, and many more, depending on the nature of the enzyme [49][50][51]. ...
Nanomaterials possess superior advantages due to their special geometries, higher surface area, and unique mechanical, optical, and physicochemical properties. Their characteristics make them great contributors to the development of many technological and industrial sectors. Therefore, novel nanomaterials have an increasing interest in many research areas including biomedicine such as chronic inflammations, disease detection, drug delivery, and infections treatment. Their relevant role is, in many cases, associated with an effective catalytic application, either as a pure catalyst (acting as a nanozyme) or as a support for catalytically active materials (forming nanobiocatalysts). In this review, we analyze the construction of nanozymes and nanobiocatalyst by different existing forms of nanomaterials including carbon-based nanomaterials, metal-based nanomaterials, and polymer-based nanocomposites. Then, we examine successful examples of such nanomaterials employed in biomedical research. The role played by nanomaterials in catalytic applications is analyzed to identify possible research directions toward the development of the field and the achievement of real practicability.
Graphical Abstract
... Enzymes have revealed a better performance compared to common active ingredients, however, their delivery in a cosmetic preparation is challenging (Table 2). Although their high molecular weight limits the skin penetration of enzymes, they have been recommended for skincare products including enzymatic antioxidants, DNA-repairing enzymes, hyaluronidases, lipases, and exfoliating enzymes [165]. Moreover, the use of enzymes in cosmetic products is expected to be enhanced by their nanoformulation [166]. ...
Flawless skin is the most universally desired human feature" is an iconic statement by Desmond Morris. Skin indicates one s health and is so important that it affects a person's emotional and psychological behavior, these facts having propelled the development of the cosmetics industry. It is estimated that in 2023, this industry will achieve more than 800 billion dollars. This boost is due to the development of new cosmetic formulations based on nanotechnology. Nanocarriers have been able to solve problems related to active ingredients regarding their solubility, poor stability, and release. Even though nanocarriers have evident benefits, they also present some problems related to the high cost, low shelf life, and toxicity. Regulation and legislation are two controversial topics regarding the use of nanotechnology in the field of cosmetics. In this area, the U.S. FDA has taken the lead and recommended several biosafety studies and post-market safety evaluations. The lack of a global definition that identifies nanomaterials as a cosmetic ingredient is a hindrance to the development of global legislation. In the EU, the legislation regarding the biosafety of nanomaterials in cosmetics is stricter. "The cost is not the only important issue, safety and the application of alternative testing methods for toxicity are of crucial importance as well".
... Papain, bromelain, proteases extracted from pumpkin, proteases of Bacillus subtilis, trypsin, subtilisin, and keratinases are examples of the proteolytic enzymes that have been already evaluated as exfoliants. [3][4][5][6] It does not surprise the application of enzymes on the skin to act as exfoliating agents since the endogenous enzymes have a major importance in removing skin from the body in the desquamation process. 7 Although several commercial products contain enzymes as exfoliating agents 4 and this kind of application is not new, according to our knowledge, no study has reviewed this topic before. ...
... [3][4][5][6] It does not surprise the application of enzymes on the skin to act as exfoliating agents since the endogenous enzymes have a major importance in removing skin from the body in the desquamation process. 7 Although several commercial products contain enzymes as exfoliating agents 4 and this kind of application is not new, according to our knowledge, no study has reviewed this topic before. This study was carried out to demonstrate the relevance of enzymatic exfoliation, overview the results obtained by different studies, some safety aspects, and elucidate several factors that should be considered when applying exfoliants that contain enzymes. ...
Background
Proteolytic enzymes are biological catalysts that can compose cosmetic formulations: These enzymes are capable of mimicking the desquamation process of the skin, acting as exfoliants. Although enzymatic exfoliation is not new and commercial products were easily found, there is a lack of scientific literature about this topic.
Methods
A search was carried out until 2021 in different scientific databases (Web of Science, Scopus, Scielo, PubMed, etc.). In vitro and in vivo studies that evaluated the application of enzymes aiming to exfoliate the skin or with a similar cosmetic or dermatological application were selected.
Results
Only 11 articles were found, and, among them, few studies applied enzymes as exfoliants in clinical trials. Nevertheless, the results demonstrate that the enzymes can exfoliate the skin and improve some desired characteristics of the organ. Papain, bromelain, keratinases, and microbial proteases are some enzymes already applied as exfoliants. The study of pH, temperature, and stabilization of the enzymes in cosmetic formulations were also demonstrated to be important aspects to be evaluated, principally in preventing loss of enzyme activity and possible allergens/irritations on the skin.
Conclusion
This literature review showed the main aspects that should be evaluated before considering producing or applying proteolytic enzymes in exfoliation products/procedures. The use of enzymatic exfoliation has potential in the cosmetic industry. Hence, further robust in vivo studies are needed before the enzymatic exfoliation can be recommended with safety as a treatment modality in the current conditions.
... The main limitations are enzyme stabilisation to ensure enzyme activity and technological challenges in producing an active formulation (14,23). ...
Exfoliation is a procedure that helps in skin cell renewal, as it consists of removing non-vital cells from the skin's surface. In addition to eliminating impurities and facilitating the penetration of cosmetically active ingredients, removing this layer restores the skin to its natural appearance, improving its texture and uniformity, and resulting in an improved skin appearance. Such cosmetic products are also referred to as enzymocosmetics. The main plant proteolytic enzymes used in skin exfoliation are papain from papaya, bromelain from pineapple and ficain from fig tree. This review aims to present the most common enzymes used in cosmetic products and to present an enzy-matic peel procedure.
... Limbah organik yang dikelola dengan baik akan dapat menghasilkan produk-produk yang bernilai ekonomi seperti pupuk, pakan ternak dan biogas (Indriyanti, Banowati and Margunani, 2015;Sunyoto dkk., 2016). Disamping itu juga dapat dilakukan pengolahan limbah sisa kulit buah dan sayur yang dapat menghasilkan Eco Enzyme atau Garbage Enzyme yang nantinya juga dapat diolah menjadi bahan baku pupuk cair, pestisida organik dan bahan campuran kosmetik (Tang and Tong, 2011;Sunar, Kumar and Deshmukh, 2016). ISSN 2541-1608e-ISSN 2579 Cara lain dalam mengolah limbah organik adalah dengan memanfaatkan larva (maggot) dari Hermetia illucens/Black Soldier Fly (BSF). ...
Universitas Sumatera Utara memiliki civitas akademika yang berkontribusi menghasilkan limbah organik yang cukup signifikan. Mendukung Green Campus mencapai peringkat di UI Greenmetric, perlu dikembangkan Unit Pengelolaan Limbah Sistem Manajemen (Simalim) Dengan Smart Urban Farming yang baik dan terpadu. UPL Simalim dibentuk bertujuan sebagai wahana pendidikan. penelitian bagi masyarakat, mahasiswa dan dosen. Disamping itu, menghasilkan produk yang bermanfaat dengan mensinergikan pemanfaatan larva Hermetia illucens/Black Soldier Fly (BSF), ekoenzim, aquaponik dan smart urban farming dengan mengelola limbah organik dari kantin dan perumahan warga di sekitar USU. Pengabdian ini dilaksanakan sejak bulan Agustus 2020 sampai dengan Desember 2020 pada Tahap pertama, berlokasi di Tempat Pembuangan Sampah (TPS) USU di Jl. Tri Dharma dan roof top garden dari UPT Lab Terpadu USU, melibatkan secara partisipatif dan melatih para mahasiswa sebagai duta ecocampus dan juga tim UI Green metric USU. Pengelolaan sampah organik dilakukan dengan rearing BSF pada sampah yang akan diuraikan. Manakala sistem akuaponik, dibudidayakan ikan gabus, nila dan lele serta sayuran organik. Produk ini dapat dijadikan komoditas kampus yang merupakan income generating. Diharapkan UPL Simalim dapat menjadi model bagi pengelolaan sampah organik tepat guna di Perguruan Tinggi yang ada di Indonesia.
Kata kunci: Limbah organik; larva BSF, ekoenzim, aquaponik, smart urban farming format.
... The chaste tree (Vitex agnus-castus), also known as monk's pepper, is a medicinal plant from the Mediterranean area and Asia that produces aromatic berries rich in phytoendorphins. These compounds bind to the µ-opiate receptor, stimulating the in vivo production of β-endorphins, thus offering benefits for skincare [111][112][113][114][115]. ...
The “modern” cosmetology industry is focusing on research devoted to discovering novel neurocosmetic functional ingredients that could improve the interactions between the skin and the nervous system. Many cosmetic companies have started to formulate neurocosmetic products that exhibit their activity on the cutaneous nervous system by affecting the skin’s neuromediators through different mechanisms of action. This review aims to clarify the definition of neurocosmetics, and to describe the features of some functional ingredients and products available on the market, with a look at the regulatory aspect. The attention is devoted to neurocosmetic ingredients for combating skin stress, explaining the stress pathways, which are also correlated with skin aging. “Neuro-relaxing” anti-aging ingredients derived from plant extracts and neurocosmetic strategies to combat inflammatory responses related to skin stress are presented. Afterwards, the molecular basis of sensitive skin and the suitable neurocosmetic ingredients to improve this problem are discussed. With the aim of presenting the major application of Botox-like ingredients as the first neurocosmetics on the market, skin aging is also introduced, and its theory is presented. To confirm the efficacy of the cosmetic products on the market, the concept of cosmetic claims is discussed.
... Finally, it is also relevant to discuss the application of enzymes in cosmetics. The catalytic activities of enzymes make their use in cosmetics appealing for a variety of purposes, such as skin peeling, removal of reactive oxygen species, UV protection, tanning, antiaging and anticellulite treatment (Lods et al., 2000;Sunar et al., 2016). However, in general, it is known that enzymes can be potent respiratory sensitisers, and all enzymes should be regarded as having the potential to induce respiratory sensitisation unless there is conclusive evidence to the contrary (Kimber and Basketter, 2014). ...
... However, in general, it is known that enzymes can be potent respiratory sensitisers, and all enzymes should be regarded as having the potential to induce respiratory sensitisation unless there is conclusive evidence to the contrary (Kimber and Basketter, 2014). For instance, papain and bromelain, both proteolytic enzymes used in cosmetics to promote skin exfoliation (Sunar et al., 2016), are classified as "H334 Hazard Category: May cause allergy or asthma symptoms or breathing difficulties if inhaled" in Annex VI of the Classification, Labelling and Packaging (CLP) Regulation (EU, 2021b). Although innovative formulations that create non-inhalable forms of enzymes (e.g., encapsulation) reduce the risk of inhalation exposure to these compounds in consumer products Kimber and Basketter, 2014), enzymes present in cosmetic aerosols could still be inhaled. ...
Dermal contact is the main route of exposure for most cosmetics; however, inhalation exposure could be significant for some formulations (e.g., aerosols, powders). Current cosmetic regulations do not require specific tests addressing respiratory irritation and sensitisation, and despite the prohibition of animal testing for cosmetics, no alternative methods have been validated to assess these endpoints to date. Inhalation hazard is mainly determined based on existing human and animal evidence, read-across, and extrapolation of data from different target organs or tissues, such as the skin. However, because of mechanistic differences, effects on the skin cannot predict effects on the respiratory tract, which indicates a substantial need for the development of new approach methodologies addressing respiratory endpoints for inhalable chemicals in general. Cosmetics might present a particularly significant need for risk assessments of inhalation exposure to provide a more accurate toxicological evaluation and ensure consumer safety. This review describes the differences in the mechanisms of irritation and sensitisation between the skin and the respiratory tract, the progress that has already been made, and what still needs to be done to fill the gap in the inhalation risk assessment of cosmetic ingredients.
... In cosmetics, enzymes have been applied for many years, as is the case of some proteolytic enzymes (bromelain and papain) used for skin peeling and smoothing, or the superoxide dismutase (SOD) known for its capacity in removing free radicals to prevent the associated skin aging [125]. However, despite their potential as skin-active substances, enzymes encounter some problems, such as poor stability at room temperature during prolonged storage or deactivation due to disturbance of the enzyme structure by oils and surfactants commonly present in cosmetics [126]. ...
In the skin care field, bacterial nanocellulose (BNC), a versatile polysaccharide produced by non-pathogenic acetic acid bacteria, has received increased attention as a promising candidate to replace synthetic polymers (e.g., nylon, polyethylene, polyacrylamides) commonly used in cosmetics. The applicability of BNC in cosmetics has been mainly investigated as a carrier of active ingredients or as a structuring agent of cosmetic formulations. However, with the sustainability issues that are underway in the highly innovative cosmetic industry and with the growth prospects for the market of bio-based products, a much more prominent role is envisioned for BNC in this field. Thus, this review provides a comprehensive overview of the most recent (last 5 years) and relevant developments and challenges in the research of BNC applied to cosmetic, aiming at inspiring future research to go beyond in the applicability of this exceptional biotechnological material in such a promising area.
... In addition, enzymes started to play an important role in producing organics like polymer materials and inorganics used in treating wastewater in the chemical industry [4]. During this time, enzymes were also widely applied in the cosmetic industry, helping to produce body care products such as skin protective and soothing agents [5]. Alpha-hydroxy ketones were experimentally synthesized using three different mechanisms. ...
Nowadays, biocatalysts have received much more attention in chemistry regarding their potential to enable high efficiency, high yield, and eco-friendly processes for a myriad of applications. Nature’s vast repository of catalysts has inspired synthetic chemists. Furthermore, the revolutionary technologies in bioengineering have provided the fast discovery and evolution of enzymes that empower chemical synthesis. This article attempts to deliver a comprehensive overview of the last two decades of investigation into enzymatic reactions and highlights the effective performance progress of bio-enzymes exploited in organic synthesis. Based on the types of enzymatic reactions and enzyme commission (E.C.) numbers, the enzymes discussed in the article are classified into oxidoreductases, transferases, hydrolases, and lyases. These applications should provide us with some insight into enzyme design strategies and molecular mechanisms.
