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Simulation of wave breaking with the NS code.

Simulation of wave breaking with the NS code.

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Context 1
... process. Results are on the whole satisfactory as the NS model allows capturing with a good phasing and topology the complex physics of the plunging process characterized by a rapid and large deformation of the interface. It can be noticed that a refinement of the mesh would likely improve the representation of the plunging wave crest sharpening. Fig. 4 displays an example of the NS model capability with a plunging wave simulation of splash-up and bubble entrainment ...
Context 2
... process. Results are on the whole satisfactory as the NS model allows capturing with a good phasing and topology the complex physics of the plunging process characterized by a rapid and large deformation of the interface. It can be noticed that a refinement of the mesh would likely improve the representation of the plunging wave crest sharpening. Fig. 4 displays an example of the NS model capability with a plunging wave simulation of splash-up and bubble entrainment ...

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Citations

... In these applications horizontal length scale is much greater than the vertical length scale, therefore shallow water description is adequate. its amplitude is still low, and wavelength is large, as discussed in [1], [4], [7]. ...
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... (a) Simulation numérique du déferlement d'une vague sur une plage. L'image provient de l'article de J. Camille et al [34]. ...
Thesis
Le déferlement des vagues, qui se produit de l'océan vers la zone côtière, est un phénomène d'écoulement diphasique complexe qui joue un rôle important dans de nombreux processus, notamment sur le transfert de matière, de quantité de mouvement et d'énergie entre l'air et l'océan. Les récentes tentatives de modélisation se heurtent au manque de connaissances physiques des plus petits détails des processus de déferlement. En outre, aucune loi d'échelle universelle pour les variables physiques n'a été trouvée jusqu'à présent.Une méthode de préservation de la quantité de mouvement, basée sur des travaux récents de la littérature, a été développée pendant la thèse afin d'atteindre les plus fins détails du processus de déferlement pour les ondes capillo-gravitaires. Cette méthode réduit l'échange non physique de la quantité de mouvement entre deux fluides pendant la simulation, ce qui permet d'effectuer des simulations très précises de déferlement de vague. Cette méthode a été vérifiée sur des cas de vérification de la littérature et validée par des expériences réalisées en laboratoire, telles que l'impact d'une goutte d'eau sur une surface libre et le déferlement d'une vague plongeante sur une plage. Ces vérifications et validations confirment l'utilisation de la méthode développée lors de l'étude suivante sur le déferlement des vagues.Dans la littérature, la plupart des résultats expérimentaux et numériques ont été réalisés pour des vagues en eau profonde. L'étude se concentre sur l'influence de la profondeur sur la dynamique du déferlement. La géométrie de surface, les anneaux de vorticité sous-marins et l'énergie totale sont étudiés pour plus de 170 simulations précises du déferlement d'une vague de Stokes sur un fond plat. Les nombreux résultats des simulations ont permis la génération de carte de déferlements pour trois différentes profondeurs d'eau. Les types de déferlements plongeant et glissant ont été subdivisés en fonction des observations faites. Ainsi, les études réalisées au cours de la thèse ont permis d'accroître les connaissances sur le déferlement d'ondes capillo-gravitaires de profondeurs d'eau intermédiaires.
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