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Estimated marginal means (means extracted from the statistical model) for (a) maximal climbing-specific holding time (CSHT) and (b) handgrip strength (HGS) during the different measurements (TOM0 = measurement before treatment, TOM1-TOM3 = measurements over the three repeated dead hangs on the fingerboard). Error bars indicate the confidence interval. dH = dominant hand, ndH non-dominant hand; * p < 0.05; ** = p < 0.001.
Source publication
The objectification of acute fatigue (during isometric muscle contraction) and cumulative fatigue (due to multiple intermittent isometric muscle contractions) plays an important role in sport climbing. The data of 42 participants were used in the study. Climbing performance was operationalized using maximal climbing-specific holding time (CSHT) by...
Citations
... For example, Belardinelli Wearable technology devices, such as fitness trackers, smart watches, and heart rate monitors, have become minimal technological skills from users to analyze and interpret the data (10). They have been recently used to monitor SmO 2 during different sport scenarios, such as indoor rock climbing (11), cross-country skiing (12), and cycling (5). However, while there are a large number of studies showing the reliability and sensitivity of NIRS (13,14), data showing the reliability and sensitivity of wearable NIRS devices (wNIRS) are lacking (15,16). ...
The present study investigated the reliability and sensitivity of a wearable near-infrared spectroscopy (wNIRS) device in moderate and heavy exercise intensity domains. On three separate days, eleven males performed an incremental test to exhaustion, and in the following visits, four submaximal constant-load bouts (i.e., test and retest) were performed in the moderate-intensity domain (100 and 130 W) and heavy-intensity domain (160 and 190 W). The local tissue oxygen saturation index (SmO2) and pulmonary oxygen uptake (V̇O2) were measured continuously. The absolute SmO2 and V̇O2 values and the change (Δ) from the 3rd to 6th min of exercise were calculated. There was good reliability for SmO2 measurements, as indicated by the high intraclass correlation coefficient analysis (ICC ≥0.84 for all) and low coefficient of variation between the two trials (CV ≤4.1% for all). Steady-state responses were observed for SmO2 and V̇O2 from the 3rd to the 6th min in the two moderate-intensity bouts (P>0.05), whereas SmO2 decreased and V̇O2 increased from the 3rd to the 6th min in the two heavy-intensity bouts (P<0.05). Together, these findings suggested that the SmO2 measured with a wNIRS device is reliable and sensitive to track local metabolic changes provoked by slight increments in exercise intensity.
... Patel, Tiwari, Pandey, and Nikam (2020) utilized a computer vision-based method to assess driver fatigue and drowsiness. Dindorf, Bartaguiz, Dully, Sprenger, Becker, Fröhlich and Ludwig (2023), which measured in real-time the muscle's oxygen saturation level via a near-infrared biosensor to assess the fatigue of climbers over a period of consecutive dead hangs. Zhang, Lockhart, and Soangra (2013) utilized support vector machines to classify the participant's gait cycle as "normal" or fatigued. ...
Physical fatigue accounts for many injuries in the workplace, sports arena, or battlefield. The traditional approaches to monitor fatigue rely on detecting and measuring shifts in the person’s muscular surface electromyography (sEMG) signals. However, assessing neuromuscular fatigue based purely on sEMG signals fails to account for the changing muscle dynamics during long dynamic physical tasks. To combat this dilemma, a system-based methodology has been recently developed and applied to several upper-extremity tasks. In this paper, we validate the efficacy of this novel methodology on the lower extremities during a dynamic activity. Specifically, the system-based monitoring methodology was applied to a cycling endurance task. It was statistically demonstrated that the system-based methodology resulted in a more-sensitive and less noisy metric, in comparison with an EMG-based methodology. The efficacy of the methodology was further illustrated by analyzing the inter-segmental recovering and fatiguing trends, which aligned with each muscle’s expected inter-muscle synergistic relationship.
... Feldmann et al. 2019;Ryan et al. 2013) and non-invasive way to ascertain changes in muscle oxygen saturation (SmO 2 ) and haemoglobin (Hb) within the muscle tissue, allowing realtime measurement to determine athletic performance and to monitor oxidative muscle metabolism (Marcon et al. 2011;Miura et al. 2003). In sport climbing, there is a rapid muscle desaturation with the onset of isometric hold followed by rapid recovery after the removal of the contraction (Dindorf et al. 2023) whereas continuous exercise produces a rapid muscle desaturation followed by a prolonged equilibrium at a lower muscle oxygen level (Hesford et al. 2013). During incremental cycle exercise, SmO 2 has been shown to drop with increasing workload and correlated to lactate and ventilatory thresholds (A. ...
Purpose The physiological examination of boxing has been limited to systemic response in amateur athletes. The demands of professional boxing have been overlooked, despite the different competition format. We sought to determine the physi- ological demands placed on skeletal muscle in professional boxing.
Methods Ten male professional boxers (age 26 ± 5 years, height 177 ± 4 cm, weight 71 ± 6 kg) were recruited for this observational study. On different days, the athletes completed 6 × 3 min rounds of pad, bag or spar-based training with 1 min recovery between each round. Prior to each session, participants put on a heart rate monitor and near-infrared spectroscopy attached to the belly of the rectus femoris muscle to record heart rate and muscle oxygenation.
Results Thereweresignificantlylesspunchesthrowninsparringcomparedtoothertrainingmodalities(p<0.001).Skeletal muscle oxygenation across training modalities consisted of a delay, fast desaturation and steady state. Across rounds there was a significant increase in time delay for desaturation (p = 0.016), rate of fast desaturation (p < 0.001) and duration of fast desaturation (p = 0.019). There was a significant difference in sparring for the heart rate where skeletal muscle oxygenation changes occurred compared to pads or bag sessions (p < 0.001).
Conclusion The findings highlight differences in the skeletal muscle response to the different training modalities. Practitioners need to be aware of the muscular demands of each session to allow optimal adaptation across a training camp. Training needs to allow the skeletal muscle to achieve a new oxygenation steady state rapidly to promote efficient performance across rounds.
Background
In the last 5 years since our last systematic review, a significant number of articles have been published on the technical aspects of muscle near-infrared spectroscopy (NIRS), the interpretation of the signals and the benefits of using the NIRS technique to measure the physiological status of muscles and to determine the workload of working muscles.
Objectives
Considering the consistent number of studies on the application of muscle oximetry in sports science published over the last 5 years, the objectives of this updated systematic review were to highlight the applications of muscle oximetry in the assessment of skeletal muscle oxidative performance in sports activities and to emphasize how this technology has been applied to exercise and training over the last 5 years. In addition, some recent instrumental developments will be briefly summarized.
Methods
Preferred Reporting Items for Systematic Reviews guidelines were followed in a systematic fashion to search, appraise and synthesize existing literature on this topic. Electronic databases such as Scopus, MEDLINE/PubMed and SPORTDiscus were searched from March 2017 up to March 2023. Potential inclusions were screened against eligibility criteria relating to recreationally trained to elite athletes, with or without training programmes, who must have assessed physiological variables monitored by commercial oximeters or NIRS instrumentation.
Results
Of the identified records, 191 studies regrouping 3435 participants, met the eligibility criteria. This systematic review highlighted a number of key findings in 37 domains of sport activities. Overall, NIRS information can be used as a meaningful marker of skeletal muscle oxidative capacity and can become one of the primary monitoring tools in practice in conjunction with, or in comparison with, heart rate or mechanical power indices in diverse exercise contexts and across different types of training and interventions.
Conclusions
Although the feasibility and success of the use of muscle oximetry in sports science is well documented, there is still a need for further instrumental development to overcome current instrumental limitations. Longitudinal studies are urgently needed to strengthen the benefits of using muscle oximetry in sports science.
In recent years, wearable devices have been increasingly used to monitor people’s health. This has helped healthcare professionals provide timely interventions to support their patients. In this study, we investigated how wearables help people manage stress. We conducted a scoping review following the Preferred Reporting Items for Systematic Reviews and Meta-Analyses extension for Scoping Reviews (PRISMA-ScR) standard to address this question. We searched studies in Scopus, IEEE Explore, and Pubmed databases. We included studies reporting user evaluations of wearable-based strategies, reporting their impact on health or usability outcomes. A total of 6259 studies were identified, of which 40 met the inclusion criteria. Based on our findings, we identified that 21 studies report using commercial wearable devices; the most common are smartwatches and smart bands. Thirty-one studies report significant stress reduction using different interventions and interaction modalities. Finally, we identified that the interventions are designed with the following aims: (1) to self-regulate during stress episodes, (2) to support self-regulation therapies for long-term goals, and (3) to provide stress awareness for prevention, consisting of people’s ability to recall, recognize and understand their stress.
